Thanks for the info. brother. I'm a mechanic for a school district and we have a mini bus that has a 6.0 and I'm dealing with a crank, no start situation. Watched your video, took some notes and will knock it out tomorrow. Thanks again.
@justindaniel5087 mine to, new ipr and icp screen was shot, have lowboil pressure, nothing in the valve, has fuel, absolutely no pressure, I'm at the point of a catastrophic hpop failure. Does try to start with starting fluid done it once just to see if it just needed a pick me up but that was a no go as well. Last time it tried to start it let out a huge puff of white and gray smoke but no antifreeze in the oil or vice versa so head gasket isn't even on my radar at this point lol. 😊
Saved me a lot of time. I saw I had low base oil pressure so I was about to replace the pump until I saw this video thank you very much, it fixed the low oil pressure issue. Prior to this crank no start happening the upper seal and snap ring broke and lost half of the snap ring in the engine I couldn't find the rest of it so I put it all back together fired it up and it ran for a couple days and then it died again and the other half of that snap ring getting caught in the valve for the pump.
@@chrismontalvo6831 go to harbor freight buy the strongest magnets they have and stick them on your oil pan it will hold anything that makes it down there
Man alive! Your shared knowledge and effort to post this video saved me a lot of aggravation and saved me from the risks of handing it over to the "professional" mechanic. I am a horticulturist but were I not the primary mechanic on my '07 550, with help from Diesel Tech Ron (missed greatly), Makuolco and you, I would be much the poorer in money, skills and specialty tools. A splinter of metal 1/3 the size of a pinky nail clipping was the problem. W/O your video I would have gone down a lot of dead end rabbit holes. Thank you !
Great video. I know a few people have made a “what to look for when buying a 6.0 video”, but with your awesome experience I wouldn’t mind seeing one. You da man!
Awesome, glad it helped. Feel free to give a super thanks or make a donation to our venmo. venmo.com/code?user_id=3876038023055136091&created=1693077627.861697&printed=1
Thanks for these videos, Drew! I definitely understand the whole oil system with the 6.0 know. Where to look and how to diagnose the issue. Thanks to your videos and Gary’s truck 😜😂 I have an 05 and I’m about to do an overhaul on the oil system. I’ve put 20k miles on it since I bought the truck and it runs fine. Sometimes it times a few seconds to turn over or I gotta stop, turn it once more and it comes on. I feel like this happens when it’s time for an oil change or really really hot out here in Tx.
Bro what the hell ..the same truck ..and once again ..more helpful tips tricks ..and dead on fix ..ooo can do me a favor as I watch your videos while your cranking let us know which pid are suppose to be looking at the second time around we do tend to forget the first time you said it ..but 5 star in my book ..thank you for sharing your knowledge ..
Yea, he bought a 6.0 and didn’t get me to look it over first and he’s now regretting that. And it doesn’t have studs either so I’m sure if he keeps it the cab will be getting raised again for that even though I tried to get him to let me do it while it was up but money was tight for him. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the compliment. I actually enjoy the diagnosing part of the job, I guess it’s the paramedic part of me seeing as that’s what I signed up for being a paramedic but most of the time I’m transporting bs to the hospital and nothing that’s a true emergency.
Heya, I'm over here working on a 6.0 van E350, same powerplant. Was getting low oil pressure, ICP at 50 max after 15 sec of crank; pulled low pressure relief valve, was sticking but no debris; after cleaning still 50 max at ICP
@@shaunrivers7506 comments like this and helping out folks is what this is all about. I take pride in my work and want everyone to be happy with what they pay for which is the problem with a lot of places and things now days.
I’m going through this exact problem right now. I’m only building about 300-400 on the IPR. If I give it a shot of starting fluid it’ll start. That worked a few times, but now it’ll start, but only run for a few seconds. Hoping to start looking into things today.
@@saltycrowgarage7215 not yet. With no money right now, and health issues, it’s in limbo sadly. I’m going to try swapping some things from my 04(nov, so same components), and see what happens. Just been in copious amounts of pain. Hoping to try some things later this week. Thank you for asking.
Thank you so much. My 04 6.0 decided to break in all places all at once. If it weren’t for you I would be paying cash I don’t have. I wish you the best. Another Q. I looked into Some things I still don’t have low oil pressure but with your troubleshooting guide my p Oil filter plunder broke. I’m assuming that’s the culprit. I’m hoping this is one of the final things that has to be fixed before it starts running.
We have a long crank to start cold and no start when hot. It cranks a long time before the dash shows oil pressure but once it shows it starts up. Just got done replacing all injector and fuel rail nipple o-rings. Oil filter gets oil about as fast as you showed in this video. Oil pump plug came out no issues. It slid out with no magnet, and no metal was found. Pulled the ipr and screen looked good, no metal found.
@AutomedicGarage Not really much. About an hr sitting. I just shut it off again, and it refuses to re-start. I'll have to wait till it cools down to start it again.
@AutomedicGarage I did the air test at the sensor, regulator, and also the rail. It had what sounded like air leaking under both left and right sides under the rail somewhere. I didn't feel any air and tried pouring oil all over with no luck. It sounded the same before and after all the seals were replaced. Since I did the injector and nipple o-rings, it starts more quickly cold than it did before oring replacement. Ipr goes to 45 upon startup and stay around 25-27 running. When it gets hot, ipr is still 25 or so. While running, demand fuel pressure/icp 580 and actual stays 570-580. When hot and shut off, then try to restart, ipr goes to 85, demand pressure is 652 and actual pressure hovers around 345-365 with icp voltage at .56-.64. Will not start. When it starts cold, it runs great with no issues. I did actuate the ipr with my scanner while I was doing the air test, and it shut off the air supply the more it was activated. Looking at other videos, I came across dieseltechRon. He mentioned the stc coupling. I didn't replace that, but it's not available at O'reillys, and neither is the low-pressure oil pump, so I'll call the dealer tomorrow and check on cost.
@@okhotrodder unplug your icp, run it that way see if there’s a difference. Gotta get the stc at ford and whatever you do don’t buy a LPOP or stc from oreillys.
Same symptoms, however I am already getting base oil pressure up into filter housing.. do I explore icp and ipr now, then ficm.. I have no scan tools for verification of the voltage and pressures in ficm, icp ect.. I am kinda trying to figure it out low budget.. Definitely have oil coming up filter housing, definitely have fuel coming into filter housing as well.. so I am starting to look towards ficm, icp, ipr, hpop.. absolute diesel Novice..
My friend, your videos have been a life saver time and time again. My only question with this one specifically: if it does fill with oil, is it as simple as replacing the filter cap so that it’s long enough to trigger the drain vac?
Please send mire videos to lesrn hiw to work on our on truck,because here where i live can nit find people that nows how too woork in this tipe of trucks thanks much friend i Woody like to SEE more of your videos
So I did your oil test, got oil, did your bubble test from another video for injectors, no bubbles. Still just cranks no start. New icp, new ipr. Kinda wants to kick over when ether is used. Oil quality is new, filter new, level at max. Where else should I look? Based on my work schedule this thing has been down for months now and if you weren’t just shy of 3 hours away I’d of already brought it to you, lol! Thanks in advance!
@@AutomedicGarage I don’t have that tough book monitoring setup you have but have been contemplating getting it. Do you recommend I get it for more accurate diagnosis?
Definitely going to check and see if the oil pressure builds like you did but my question now is would that effect it when it starts cold but not when its hot???
Hi there which software do you have in this video that shows the oil pressure act great video also if it not the valve under the flywheel stuck what is it.
So this happened from running out of fuel? I ran out of fuel and watch my gauges lose pressure and haven’t started since. I’m going to try this tomorrow
mine alsways made a sound when i turned on ignition before cranking it over. now it will crank but no start and no clicking not sure what the clicking was but i had this truck 3 years its a 2005 6.0 and today no start. i tried bleeding the fuel because i did nearly run out of fuel last time i drove it. i am in tears i need my truck back on the road
@@hellothere312 clicking noise was probably your FICM going through it’s cycle. See if you have 47-48 FICM main power and 12v battery power to your FICM.
My truck is studded, sct tuned, fully deleted straight piped and it had supposedly been well taken care of by a friend. On a cold or warm start mine cranks twice or 3 times over before it starts compared to the one in your video. Is there something wrong with it,
Where do you hook up a pressure guage to test actual psi of low oil pressure? I have no start, originally had ipr code,, replaced,,, still no start, so bought a scan guage 3 ,, have ficm volts 48 ficm logic 10.5-11, ficm sync 1 ficm cam and crank yes,,rpm 190,,icp .24v ,,icp takes a bit to get to 225 then halts , clean relief valve, nothing in there but tight, pulled and cleaned,,, oil fills in about 10 seconds, im stumped ,, any ideas,, thanks,,pat
Thank you again. I went and with the checks found that the oil tube broke - the plastic part of it. I found a piece inside the where the oil sits. I replaced that part. The oil builds up like in the video. Any chance that some plastic made its way to something else where it’s not building up pressure? What should I look for? My oil gauge still reads zero.
Love the video! But I'm Ole School, would have yanked that 6.0 brick out and replaced with a 7.3 :) And WTHeck, Ford's 07 6.0 had it right and tight... then discontued it for 6.4??
@@AutomedicGarage That's why I'm subscribed to your channel... Need me to be Learn't on how to work on the 6.0s. My Cuz has a 04' W/ a 6.0 and he's mechanicaly challenged to say the least, Best his Heart :) Also looking on how to make it Bullett Proof! And del-leted the crap that kills these motors!
Hi there. U have such a good videos!I recommend You're Chanel for others. My 2005 F250 6.0diesel when my cold engine starts, isn't going too High idle to 1000rpm engine wormup. Its still only 670-700 RPM. What is can cause a trouble for this??
@@AutomedicGarage Outside is 19C engine coolant 90F I have a so cheap scanner that's my scanner says 90F. 1st in the morning when I start engine it doesn't go high 1000rpm Stays on the same 678rpm.
I have an 06 6.0 with a crank no start. Quit on me going 80 in the fast lane and I had to coast over to the side. Was able to get it going eventually and got it home over an hour away. The next day it started for a min and then quit. Couldnt get it started again. Thought it was the fuel pump so tried replacing that and its still not getting fuel to the bowl. Something in the pump or by the bowl doesnt sound right. Im also going to check the oil pressure as you did here tomorrow. Any help where to start next with the fuel issue would be much appreciated!
So measuring a fliter like that will. Be the same no matter what cap you run. The difference is on top of yhe flange. The cap height another words. The seal flange down will be the same.
The distance that matters is from the where the cap seats onto the housing to the bottom of the filter. Some cheap caps don’t hold the filter firmly either so it will recess more also.
I did one test only... ipr valve changed by the mechanic, he told me low oil pressure pump don't work, I went to even half of your steps...( oil filter removed , push the valve and crank the engine, oil filter reservoir filled up in few seconds!! ) I didn't obviously take out the check valve , p.s cranking the engine oil pressure from 0 went up to half on truck gauge. I guess I have pressure? ) don't have any check engine. only an abs light on .. ! engine cranks but still don't start!! what could be? new injectors, top diesel filter changed. fuel pressure ok, ipr valve changed egr delete, air filter ok . the problem started with a stall on the road , than truck was starting for few seconds and stall again.. only thing wasn't changed is bottom diesel filter.. but if it was clogged I should have diesel squirting up from top engine diesel filter if just unscrew few turns the cap!!! WHAT COULD BE???? IS A 2005 LARIAT. ALWAYS WELL TAKING CARE OF.. ESPECIALLY MECHANICALLY!! PLEASE HELP !!!
It might hit just due to the simple fact of the compression igniting the ether but it won’t “overcome” a bad icp. Most times a bad icp doesn’t give you a no start, you might have erratic idle or long start etc. the best way to determine if it’s bad is see what the voltage is key on engine off. Or just unplug it. It will run without it cause the pcm has a default pressure it goes to if it isn’t getting any feedback from the icp.
@@AutomedicGarage ok thank you. Doesn’t sound like my problem. I had to use the ether trick to get back to Nashville last night from Indiana with a heavy load. Mine runs fine once started but I’ll shut it off at the pump to get diesel and it doesn’t want to start back. I changed both filters on the side of the road yesterday and it’s still doing it
great video, are you reading ICP psi? or Kpa? cant really see on screen, thank u, algo if i do have the good oil pressure from engine pump to filter housing, but not high pump pressure at all, should i point to high pressure pump?
If its a early 6.0 (03-early 04) yes, pumps are prone to get weak and the j tube orings can blow also. If it’s late 04 or newer could be stand pipes, dummy plugs or stc fitting(if it still has one) late model pumps don’t typically go bad. You really need to pressure test the Hpo system to really tell the story if your low pressure pump is doing it’s job. And yes I’m reading psi not Kpa
so, i pulled my relief valve out and of course it sprung out at me, cleaned it up good and reinstalled, went top side and was watching my reservoir while key off and the reservoir didnt fill….i also tried depressing the plunger in the reservoir still no change….is this a bad lpop? its a 2006 f250 6.0
Hello I have a quick question I have a truck in my yard that has the same problem but one of the guys sprayed starter fluid and it will start right up and run fine
Pull the low oil pressure pump. Check gears for scarring. If the gears are scarred. What normally causes this is a lifter has come apart and the needles out of that lifter has gone through the pump. Next step is to pull the engine. And watch bank account go empty.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!! If you pumping LPO this isn’t your problem. What’s your icp, ipr%, FICM main and FICM sync say when cranking? What’s your fuel pressure? This video only applies if your not making low pressure oil. If you keep throwing starting fluid at a truck your gonna crack a piston or rings.
I have a 2004 F350 rebuilt fuel injectors now fuel injectors, 13 and four are not working did a dionostic scan no codes for fuel injectors but when I disable one ate a time numbers 1,2 and 4 makes no change I have code for incorrect exhaust recirculation and a code for turbo no back pressure I have replace power side Ficm , fuel injector wire harness nipple cups stand pipes blue spring fuel filters oil filter sending unit in fuel tank and rebuilt all the injectors with new springs and orings can you give me any help on this issue it’s on a 2004 6.0 power stroke
If it fills with oil in a few secs and the drain back valve holds you low pressure side is good. Move on to the high pressure oil side and diagnose that.
@@jacklowe6177 the gauge is only for the low pressure side and is basically a idiot gauge cause it reads anything above 7lbs. I need to know what your icp and ipr are doing. Doesn’t matter if it was replaced when bullet proofed a lot of stuff can leak or fail not to meantion was it done right?
Only takes 7psi to read on the dash. The dash oil pressure is not priority if battery voltage is low either. So no if the filter housing fills relatively quick you should have gauge unless you have pretty weak batteries
