This is good stuff to know. I have a 6.9 IDI and i've been wanting to check the timing. It runs and starts great but not sure if it needs more timing. It does have the "powerstroke" clatter when it's warming up with the high idle engaged. I'm trying to also get to those illusive 20 mpg numbers but it's tough when things are a bit worn out.
Ford 6.9/7.3 use gear drive crank to cam so the camshaft spins opposite crank, half speed. 6.2/6.5 have chain drive crank to cam. Camshaft spins same direction, again half crank speed. IDI are less sensitive to injection timing because at low injection quantity, all fire is in the head. Too advanced and it is noisy. Too late and it won't run. At high injection quantity, Too advanced will keep fuel in the precombustion chamber, as piston moves down, the drop in pressure causes the fuel in the precups to enter the cylinder. This is why IDIs are less sensitive to timing.
I didn’t have the LumyMag then. So, I don’t know what the timing was. That was back in 2010-2011. Real diesel with some sulfur could still be purchased as well.
GM never published them that I can find. Just the AM General M998 value of -4° +-2° At 1200 rpm I mention in the video. Then the DB4 pump came out with a computer that adjusted timing on most of the 6.5 turbo engines. So any internet search for 6.5 timing gets you how to set the computer. We are talking about a minuscule subset of a small world of people who would ever want to know this.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 unfortunately I’m in that minuscule percentage that also would like to know 😅 I’m installing a brand new modified DB2 to my 6.2 with HX40 and intercooler and my OCD would like to time it properly. But I think my approach will be to run it in a dyno testing out where it makes most power
@@WingspeedGarage I think I said it in the video but here it is again. My GEP 6.5 with a Banks 6.2 turbo in the 4x4 suburban I have set at +3° @ 1300 rpm. 20,000 miles of towing, highway and mountain driving with no issues. It is very loud diesel noises at idle though. I keep thinking about going to 4° or even 5° advanced. But, it works very well where it is. A dyno will give you peak power. That is a great idea. You might find though that the power isn’t where you want it for your driving. IP timing will change the part throttle boost a bunch. Since we are a small subset of a small world. I feel it needed to mention that boost over 12 psi has been very bad to these engines to people in the past. Studs and head gaskets might be needed. Which leads to intercoolers. They work best above 15 psi. Unless you lowered compression. You might not get much benefit from an intercooler. Even then, the IDI design gets very, very hot at the heads with boost. Make sure your cooling system is in excellent shape.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Great info! Thanks! Regarding to the intercooler my theory is to run 15-20psi inlet air pressure and I’ll adjust my boost pressure accordingly to that. I don’t know yet what the pressure drop will be through the intercooler but I’ll have pressure sensors on each side. 15psi of cold air will make better power than 15psi of hot air. Increasing the air density and not boost pressures should also make lower cylinder pressure per HP and make less stress on head and head gaskets
