The differences of the turbo and n/a and why its different- the turbo has high pop pressures on the injectors. The higher the pop pressure helps with atomization and improves efficiency (both mpg and power), but loads the injector pump more- so this causes the rougher running. Something like 1850 vs 2250 iirc (been lots of years ago) It is not as pleasing for a daily driver loosing the smoother run. When I was playing race truck and had injectors set around 3350 range it really had a lope action to it. Another thing on the injectors is how well that pop pressure is balanced. In the fleet (hundreds of 6.5s) we learned to balance them during rebuild. The desired range of say 2250 , some could be 200 below and others 200 above. So you are getting slightly different volumes of fuel and atomization. Imagine each cylinder should be giving you 22 hp. But a couple are giving you 18.5 and a couple giving you 23.5. The engine is literally fighting itself. I got used to cracking open injection nuts one at a time and listening to the difference of all 8. The I could tell when cylinders were performing at different levels . Give it a try- probably will not notice changes in the smooth running engine but the one that isn’t as smooth will stand out more. We would rebuild the injectors in-house (not hard, but now hard to get the shims). Replace the injectors every 100,000 miles. Buy having a set ready to go as spare its a quick turn around, then rebuild the ones you took out and store for the next time they are needed. Where you buy injectors is a critical thing because there are so many junk sellers out there. Get them from an authorized Bosch dealer is best option now days, there is places to recommend but I don’t want you to think I am some spammer. The other difference is how much the timing chain stretches. When it it is idling you will get a consistent retarded rate, but when driving and you go from acceleration to decelerating back to acceleration you’ll get more stuttering because of the chain slop, especially above 200,000 miles. We learned about every 30,000 miles was enough time of chain stretch to need a little timing adjustment. Your description of using the retarder is spot on. When I worked at GM dealerships (usually was the only diesel guy back then) they didn’t even have much training on timing. I went to Stanadyne training and they showed how. You covered it all well enough that the only thing to add- NEVER EVER under any circumstances- have the nuts loose or adjust while the engine is running. It can cause chattering inside the pump and destroy it. So sharpen a pencil and make your own mark that lines up with the pump, loosen nuts and adjust. Tighten the top nut and start/ test. If you don’t like it- shut it off, loosen and adjust, then tighten. Start and retest. When your happy, tighten the bottom two. There is a ton to learn on these ol rattling toys. Best forum (and free) is thetruckstop.us guys from broke and bailing wire to a few that can scorch the dragstrip from time to time.
WhenI was in the Army back in the 80's we often had to replace the engine front cover due to cracks. The new covers did not come with timing marks, so we had to use a special tool J33042 to put a timing mark on the cover. Then we had to check to verify correct timing with the Tach N Time J33300-A.
Thank you so much for these videos. I think i'll try the timing advance method on my truck and see how it reacts. It's blowing some smoke and mileage isn't quite what i've been told it could get. Keep up the great work!
The timing light with the induction pickup measures when the fuel goes through the line. The Lumy mag measures when the fuel turns into a flame. There will be a difference in what they show. Because temperature and pressure change the rate diesel fuel lights on fire. Lighting off faster with higher psi and temps. The DB2 retards the timing as the rpm increases. 1300 rpm is where the timing value should be read at. The idle value is not consistently related to the 1300 rpm value in my experience with different engines. My non turbo engines I try to get at -2° at 1300 rpm with the Lumy mag. The engine in the video is below that and since it runs good I have left it alone. My turbo charged 6.5 I currently have a +2° at 1300. 10,000 plus miles of mountains, trailering and all day long high speed runs have resulted in just great performance and no known damage. I really don’t want to go more advanced since I like how it runs currently. This make sense and answer your question?
Have you ever tried putting a clear glass of water on top of the air breather ?? I’d make a video of it but I don’t have the tools to back it up like what you got
Congrats on finding one. I have done nothing special with the probe. I just keep in in the little case and handle it with care making sure not to drop it. I think in a few years people like us will have little display cases lined with padded felt for them.
if the damper moves the keyway in the crank is busted, happened to me. The bolt which held the damper snapped. Had to pin the new damper. old damper rubber was swollen and cracked and needed replacement.
Tim, a question. The timing light shows the white timing marks at 0 degrees at idle. The SnapOn shows -6.5 degrees at 1300 rpm. Obviously, a difference in technology. Is it safe to say if the white timing marks line up at 0 degrees and the scribe marks on the IP pump and housing are lined up or +/- 1 mm you should be good to go. I have a military humvee with the mechanical 6.5L diesel. My IP hash marks are about 1/4" retarded (passenger side) and this is verified with the screwdriver test... When I push the advance lever in nothing happens...engine sounds the same...no drop in rpm or engine sputtering. Thanks. Mark.
NO! Do not adjust the pump with the engine running. Bad things can happen. You can loosen the bottom two nuts and keep the top one tight as you test a new setting. But, get all 3 tight once you are done tuning.
@Tim's Teachable Moments guess I'm doing something wrong, I loosened all three bolts and hardly move it. any suggestions? it is retarded atleast 1/4 inch. it run fine but bellows smoke.
@@barrypayne421 It will be hard to move by you. There is a gasket to the timing cover that could have become stuck to either the pump, cover or both. Someone might have even put gasket sealer on there in the past. Plus, the injector lines are also holding it in place. Some company even makes a pump turning tool. What I do is grab the throttle cable bracket and use that as leverage to turn the IP.
The timing gears have more mechanical advantage than we do. So, they can turn it with ease. That is why at least the top bolt should be tight anytime the engine is started.
That is a Stanadyne FM 100 base and filter. Same mounts as the stock filter. If I were starting without a stash of filters like I did. I would just buy a Duramax filter assembly off Amazon for around $100. Base, filter, water in fuel sensor and heater.
That is a Stanadyne FM 100 base and filter. Same mounts as the stock filter. If I were starting without a stash of filters like I did. I would just buy a Duramax filter assembly off Amazon for around $100. Base, filter, water in fuel sensor and heater.
That is a Stanadyne FM 100 base and filter. Same mounts as the stock filter. If I were starting without a stash of filters like I did. I would just buy a Duramax filter assembly off Amazon for around $100. Base, filter, water in fuel sensor and heater.
That is a Stanadyne FM 100 base and filter. Same mounts as the stock filter. If I were starting without a stash of filters like I did. I would just buy a Duramax filter assembly off Amazon for around $100. Base, filter, water in fuel sensor and heater.
That is a Stanadyne FM 100 base and filter. Same mounts as the stock filter. If I were starting without a stash of filters like I did. I would just buy a Duramax filter assembly off Amazon for around $100. Base, filter, water in fuel sensor and heater.
