The truck has Ben fine all of a sudden it stalls when coming to a stop no check engine light just stabilitrack off light is on! It stalls again crank no start scan for code p0011 timing advanced ! I swear the only time this truck acts up is on a fresh oil change or when it’s down to 5 percent I dint get it the only thing I didbt replace was the cam shaft bolt thing and sprocket ‘ it comes at a awful time cus I’m in Florida set to drive home to Boston for the summer ! But it was every no and then cranks longer than it should when it starts yiu smell burnt oil
I would replace the cam bolt and magnet for the advanced code the magnet has been updated if I remember correctly. Doesn’t explain the oil smell tho time to pull spark plugs and see if one is oil fowl more or if they all are wet to narrow down why oil is entering the cylinder. My guess is these are two separate issues.
Buenas noches, tengo una Suburban 2007 5.3 y tengo ese código, cuando se prende el stabilitrak me patea el cambio de 1ra a 2da pero le borro los códigos y funciona muy bien por unos 5 minutos hasta que le vuelve a prender la alerta en el tablero y vuelve a golpear de primera a segunda velocidad, que podrá ser? He notado que la presión de aceite anda como en 25% o a veces más baja (Así compré la camioneta)
I did everything for this code all gm parts in the end it turned out to be low oil pressure that sets this code mine ended up being the valley pan gasket o rings leaking causing low oil pressure I changed everything oil pump oil pressure bleed off switch timing chain cam sensor crankshaft sensor Vvt sprocket Vvt solenoid you name it if anyone runs into this issue and nothing else fixes it took me a month to figure it out.
The sensor most likely had a little carbon from engine oil built up on it. I just done one on a truck that the guy doesn't change his oil on...like never. Just tops it off. I was able to get the sensor rotating back and forth after about an hour of messing with it. So then I sprayed some Berryman carburetor cleaner around it and it popped out after a few minutes. It had black crumbs all over it that I'm sure was carbon from burnt oil.
Anyone know the torque spec for the camshaft position sensor bolt and the three bolts on the camshaft adjuster magnet? I know he said that the torque spec for the VVT solenoid / actuator was 55 ft lb first pass, then 50°, or 75 to 85 ft lb, but I can't seem to find the torque spec for the camshaft adjuster magnet or camshaft position sensor.
Hey how are you ? After I did my sensor and magnet my check engine light was coming on but I did a few earlier oils changes and it has not Ben on ! Sometimes when I got to start it ! It cranks over way to long if it’s cold fires right up once it’s warm and it don’t happen all the time if I start it 10 times a day 5 of them it cranks n cranks an ideas what that might be ? I never did the bvt fader the one that bolts in to the top timing gear !
Just did mine with 240k miles did the timing chain and tensioner also had no wear on the chain 0 was exactly the same length as the new oem chain the tensioner was in okay condition took 2 days awd awful job lol.
When my balancer bolt was not coming out I figured if it was gonna go that far I was just gonna pull the whole engine and re-gasket the whole damn thing and do a normal cam and lifter while I was there.
I would get it scanned with tech tool to see if any other body modules have codes, if none then I would test warm oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if good then replace timing chain.
I have 2011 camaro SS with L99 engine with stock AFM system and VVT Sprocket. I have P0011 code in the test mode only without check engine light (before crank). While cranking I see Service Stabilitrak message for a couple of seconds. Does it make a sense to replace camshaft sensor / adjuster magnet, VVT sprocket with VVT valves, timing chain and VLOM solenoids ?
Different conditions than what i experienced but for as cheap and easy as it is I would try the cam sensor, magnet and valve first before tearing it down to the T chain. Only having the issue at crank sounds like an initial communication error.
I have a 07 Escalade timing cover came off new chain,tensioner, cam phazer, solenoid valve , magnet actuator , position sensor , code still comes up can a lose pickup tube be an issue ? When i put it back together and pick up tube to the oil pump was left a bit loose due to having to drop the oil pan to tighten the bolt that holds it together, would very much appreciate your input thank you
You put it all back together with a lose pickup tube??? Yes that could be your problem and the o ring itself could be the issue. Put a mechanical gauge on it, PS I have a vid of doing the oil pan gasket, not hard at all and probably leaking anyways.
sweet rock auto collection. doorman is a stopgap. oem is best..on all parts.if possible of course. ive run across several dorman parts that dont fit quite right.
Yes 5.3’s are the same. 1 cylinder missfire I would start with basics, ohm plug wire and inspect plug. Move onto swapping injector to different cyl and see if the miss code follows. If not then you might have a bad intake gasket those have been updated since they first came out.
No it never had a stalling issue. I would think the ecu uses the crank signal for desired idle speed but I could be wrong, definitely fix the cam sensor code if you have one before any further diagnostics are done.
@@kmachado4any updates on crank sensor? We have same code on a new build motor. Just pulled pan again, new HV HP melling pump, VVT solonoid, sprocket and valve, and of course a other pickup o ring. Still same code and low oil pressure and stalling.
Thanks for the tips. I just did the magnet and sensor on mine but could not get the bolt out. The sensor was a total PITA. Took me an hour of slowly working it. It must slowly expand over time cause the new one was almost loose going in.
I replaced my camshaft sensor and my phaser magnet put it back together it ran great next day light back on and it was skipping worse than before then it runs great seams like when it’s cold it runs good but when it’s hot it startes running rough ! And ideas
If you didn’t have this issue before replacing those parts then first thing I would suspect is junk new part, it happens. If you are chasing a misfire when you say “skipping” and it doesn’t have a missfire code I would look at ignition system first. I always run Delco platinum plugs and MSD wires. Could be coil breaking down when warm but that’s not very common, usually an injector will throw a code.
Im having an issue I swapped a 07 non dod engine into a 2010 escalade and now I turned off dod on ecm and it still cant get it to turn on correctly it’ll turn on but die back down codes im getting are P3401, P3425,P3441,P3449, P0108, all symtoms 00
High enough to not kick the oil pressure light on LOL, I haven’t put a mechanical gauge on it sorry don’t know. Rule of thumb much less than 20psi is not good.
GM reccomends no less than 5 psi and claims psi varies with mileage. 200k hot idle, 15 lbs is considered avg, but I generally feel comfortable no less than 20 psi while some continue to drive fine at 10psi hot idle.
I purchased all the part you did even did oil change timing, code won’t go away I didn’t check the wire harness it looks okay but I’ll check it than if that doesn’t work I’ll change ecm and than if that fails I’m getting a new engine
if you replaced everything including oil pump you might have a low oil pressure problem. I would hook a manual gauge to it and ge the thing to op temp and see.
Did you figure it out. I changed all these parts along with the harness everything from the dealer. I did my o ring pick up tube oil pressure is perfect truck runs perfect it just shuts off once every few weeks and it's hard to start
@@BODWeddings yes I changed all that even the jumper harness everything from the dealer and I did the job twice im thinking maybe I got a bad part because the second time I changed it it takes much longer to come on when I earse it and sometimes it goes off by itself the first time I changed it the light sometimes comes on the same day
@@trbokmro I do not know your mileage, but russian says l92 lacks of oil pressure on high mileage. For my Escalade 2007 esv I have oil pressure 110-120KPA after hour of driving. This can cause VVT problems in future and then they say engine should be rebuild with replacing camshaft too, but even this can not help sometimes. Lifter cylinders in block can be out of dimensions and oil pressure problem can consist even after replacing everything. The solution is buying other block. Not sure if they have accurate stats, but it is what I know for now. May be you have low mileage. My has 8500 enging hours, at 11500 hours they can suffer from VVT issues and low oil pressure.
@@olegorlov1379 mine is around 160,000 miles and I run 5w-30 oil and when I replaced the oil pan gasket I replaced the oil pump pick up tube o ring which has a history of failure and causes low oil pressure. If it were mine I would do a high volume high pressure oil pump before rebuilding or replacing the entire engine, assuming you don’t have a bunch of metal in the oil of course. Depending on your year something worth looking at is a filter screen under the oil pressure sensor, my neighbor had low warm oil pressure but the engine sounded perfect, found it had that screen with build up on it and replaced the screen, fixed the issue. I want to say his was 2010 year if I remember correct.
By hand?? No. There is a slight clearance for the thrust bearing but shouldn’t be really noticeable especially if you aren’t prying it back and forth. I’d say you have bearing issues
Buenas noches, tengo una Suburban 2007 5.3 y tengo ese código, cuando se prende el stabilitrak me patea el cambio de 1ra a 2da pero le borro los códigos y funciona muy bien por unos 5 minutos hasta que le vuelve a prender la alerta en el tablero y vuelve a golpear de primera a segunda velocidad, que podrá ser? He notado que la presión de aceite anda como en 25% o a veces más baja (Así compré la camioneta)
