#6 is a great idea. Thank-you. Re project #5, the high side of the transformer generates a lethal 220 VAC. It would be great if you were to remove this project from an otherwise fun group of circuits.
220V AC is hardly ever lethal, in the first place be cause it is AC which is much less dangerous as to how it can immobilize the muscles than DC at similar or even lower voltages (it was one of the several reasons in the day to go for AC, others being its far lower transport losses and the fact a 'moving' magnetic field is needed for bopping up or lowering voltages by means of transformers) especially if it is at a low Amp rating which this obviously would be and also it forms a closed loop so to say so in this case the electricity would not want to leak to any external 'earthed' polarity. Although I DO have knowledge of a washing machine repairs man who once accidentally got electified when crouched down on the bathroom floor (doing a repair whilst the home owners had left the house in the meantime) for hours on end whilst he could not move his body and thus could not get away / stop touching the electrified part(s) which caused him quite a physical trauma, even he survived. I have accidentally touched live 220AC wires many times in my life and as long as you wouldn't stand with your feet in water, it would not kill you. By the way modern safety measures included in our home electricity networks nowadays would even in the latter case prevent you from getting electrocuted as well, and even from getting any serious yolt - when it gets outside of the closed system it is supposed to stay inside, the power in our homes gets disconnected (switched off completely) so fast that it hardly can do any damage to any living being at all!
In the diagram, it looks like I used 4 lm358, but they are only two, but in proteus - design software - lm358 Moken it is two pieces.. Look at the leg numbers.@@igorzherebiatev5751
It would be an added value if it were explained why certain components should be used and how they work within the project instead of showing that by connecting them together they just work
I appreciate the skill, I have tried soldering this way and it's kinda hard, but yeah, a perfboard or a PCB would be more stable. Maybe the point of soldering in this particular way is to show where each connection goes.
@@Inventor_AW I seriously think that you can teach this skill by example. It will attract a lot of hobbyists and experimenters. It's a great way to prototype something quickly and if it's done on a copper clad board, that can act as a ground plane. Furthermore, if one encapsulates the circuit in clear epoxy, it becomes an interesting item to present to all sorts of audiences, because it will be visible, safe to touch without risk of injury or damage to the circuit.
The project that uses two pushbutton switches to turn the power MOSFET on and off is dependent on the charging and discharging of the gate capacitance. This charge could leak away when the humidity is high. It's a poor circuit design. Project #4 used two LM358 dual opamps, but an LM324 is the same as two LM358s in one package. The guy needs to watch videos on how to solder. Thanks for the videos.
And my two cents about the two-button project #2: at least two resistors should be used. In case someone comes up and pushes both buttons at the same time💥
teacher! thank you. I've been staring at the circuit all day since this morning. Thank you for teaching me many things beyond borders. I'm Japanese, but I respect you. Thank you for your kind explanation. It is not completed yet, but I appreciate your continued support until it is completed.
May I ask you a question? This is a circuit diagram using an analog meter that makes the LED and buzzer sound when it shakes, but even if I follow the circuit diagram, the buzzer keeps ringing and the LED lights up all the time. Are there any mistakes in the circuit diagram? I would like to make one too, so could you please let me know?
@@Inventor_AW good morning. thank you for your reply. The circuit diagram is definitely smart. Regarding the 1KΩ variable resistor you advised, I am currently using 500Ω as instructed in the circuit diagram. The one thing I'm concerned about is the 1N4148 diode, but is it okay to use it as a signal diode? In the video, it looks like there is a rectifier diode attached, but are you sure it is a glass tube diode (for signal use)? Also, should the LED be a 3-6V compatible LED? I am currently using a 3V compatible buzzer. Could you please let me know if there is anything wrong? teacher!
The CA3140 IC has an operating voltage of 18v. It doesn't work at 9v, so could you please check the resistors, diodes, LEDs, and ICs again? I've bought the parts and tried making it many times, so I really want to make it, so I'd appreciate your help.
@@Pc110 The CA3140 IC operating voltage 4 to 36 V , so it works with 9V , I'm afraid you got a damaged part.. but let's see.. in the next video I will connect the components in the air (without PCB) I will let you know when the video is ready.. don't worry you will do it
@@Inventor_AW Thank you, teacher. I'm really looking forward to it. Thank you for your detailed investigation. I'm looking forward to your reply's circuit creation video.
This can be done by placing a piece of cork on the surface of the water to reflect the IR... but remember that the circuit works within a range of approximately half a meter. thanks for watching
А если свободный конец стрелки чем нибудь отгрузить, повесть грузик, маленький кусок провода на клей, то будет хорошо чувствовать вибро, толчек. Симма датчик DIY.
For the first project: When the photodiode receives infrared radiation, it passes a positive charge to the MOSFET gate, then the MOSFET connects source with drain , the 0.47 capacitor delays, then the 1 mega resistor discharges the charge. And so on
