Make Dumb Electronics Smart for $3

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Make Dumb Electronics Smart for $3
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Опубликовано:

26 апр 2024

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Комментарии : 511

@_pixelpicnic 12 дней назад

I like the video and enjoyed the process, but 2 things come to mind: 1) using the limit screw on the screen's motor assembly reduces a lot of the complexity of this project 2) Modifying the operation buttons attached to the wall would have made more sense, as you wouldn't have signal issues, and you would still have a useful remote. no shade though, I always appreciate project sharing. cheers!

@cccccc864 9 дней назад

Or using a timer to tell when to stop. All valid ideas to solve a problem.

@syedharris4385 9 дней назад

Timer actually is less complicated

@makaiwise4609 8 дней назад

@@syedharris4385but would that not be less reliable? What if there’s a little delay in connection and the screen starts coming down late, and the timer ends before the screen is all the way down?

@TJCarterNYC 8 дней назад

@@makaiwise4609 Hmm...that's a good point. Unless the timer "only" begins when the screen starts to move... which goes back to the idea of "mechanical" solution. I like the idea of the mechanical limit switch myself.

@TJCarterNYC 8 дней назад

@_pixelpicnic I agree with the modifying the "wall unit" totally. Keeping the remote completely "wireless" does keep it a practical wireless device as it was intended. But he did say he did not want to totally "destroy" the motorized screen. I do understand that. We have all done it at some point and probably more than once. Remote is "technically" and financially a more replaceable item.

@JCWren 15 дней назад

The only reason those remotes use a 12V is for the range. The RF transmitter section gets the 12V., and the RF IC internally regulates it down to whatever it needs. The quiescent current on these parts are usually is in the sub-microamp range and sometimes zero, as the push button applies power to the IC, and based on which pin has power as it turns on determines what the remote is supposed to do. The 12V battery allows it to operate at lower temperatures, where the battery current starts dropping. Lastly, since the transmitter operates over a wide voltage range (albeit at a diminishing range), the battery life is exceptional, since it can drop down to a few volts before it stops working.

@yestertechnet 23 часа назад

exactly - it looked like a LDO was connected to the 12v rail and then to the 8 pin chip etc.

@KaurH 15 дней назад

For controlling IR remove devices, I've made a few ESPs around the house with IR emitters. That way instead of hooking up an arduino to existing remotes, I have one arduino control tons of devices in a room.

@thaejsooriya3313 15 дней назад

Yea I was going suggest this, came in super handy we lost the remote to a TV for good. Used a universal remote from another TV, recorded it with an IR sensor, and then programmed that into my ESP with an emitter. Worked better than it had any right to.

@14Mechatronics 15 дней назад

Good call!

@qkb3128 15 дней назад

Any instructions on this?

@akozaro8 15 дней назад

I actually did the opposite of this to control the LEDs behind my tv. I recorded the input for several unused buttons from my universal remote and programmed them to change the lighting to different colors, as well as choose which section to change (bottom left, top right, all, etc). This way I don't have to pull out my phone if I want to adjust the LED colors while watching tv.

@Jehty21 14 дней назад

@@akozaro8oh, wow. That's a really good idea. Thank you for bringing that up

@craigjsanderson 15 дней назад

How on earth are we supposed to know who this guy is, and whether or not he likes to make stuff??

@johnkreno2488 15 дней назад

I'm not sure exactly who this guy is, but I can say with some small degree of certainty, that he does indeed like to make stuff.

@lannysternburg263 15 дней назад

? Seriously?? Just touch on the “I like to make stuff” then press videos or shorts . And it will show you his other content. I hope this helps

@craigjsanderson 15 дней назад

@@lannysternburg263 no - not seriously- have you watched the first few seconds of all his other videos?

@arthurtaggart 15 дней назад

It’s a mystery

@Jon.S 15 дней назад

@@lannysternburg263woosh

@sf-studio 15 дней назад

I've got the same screen and it's adjustable, it's a little screw-turn limiter in the screen housing on the side with the power cable. It's not really obvious just looking at the screen or in the instructions IIRC. Pushing up on the remote when the screen is going down will stop the screen as well. You could set your routine on a timer and tell it "After 10 seconds, Screen Up" and not need the physical limiter, or have to wire up the stop button.

@W2APS 15 дней назад

I was coming to say this. All the tubular screen motors have endstops in them that are either adjustable with a hex key or push-click to set. I worked in technical support for a projector screen manufacturer for 4 years. It was good fun!

@Rhaen99 6 дней назад

I was also thinking about a time limited stopping function, such that you wouldn't need anything physical to trigger where to stop. The main detriment to this is that it would assume a fixed starting point every time. If, for some reason, the initial point started part way down, the time-based approach would not stop at the correct location. Not sure if that could be a problem with this screen but that would be a potential as to why a physical stop trigger was used.

@stoneobscurity 16 дней назад

esphome is the software/firmware you want.

@firemarshal1bill 16 дней назад

Especially because you are already using home assistant for other things

@Ajicles 15 дней назад

Should have taken the motor apart and attached a rotary encoder and have it set the screen to different heights.

@MrModTwelveFoot 15 дней назад

@Ajicles I have no experience with projector screens, but I don't imagine it's a common occurrence to only want half of it?

@elesjuan 15 дней назад

Came here to say exactly this. I built a motorized shade for an inaccessible window in my house using esphome and it took like 5 minutes to configure. Didn't even bother with limit switches, just timed how long it takes to travel up and down, added a delay into the code. Works like a champ.

@Mrcaffinebean 15 дней назад

Ding ding, ESP home is amazing. If you come from a roll your own code world like Bob is can feel weird to not write the code but it’s really the best way to go.

@mvdwetering 15 дней назад

Maybe the switch blocking the antenna is more of an issue now that it is running on 3.3V instead of 12V? It might have reduced the transmit power/range.

@tengelgeer 15 дней назад

Yep, exactly that. 12V is mostly there for the RF being more powerful. So on 12V it would probably not mind the switch. Although it is nice is not blasting trough the whole neighborhood now anymore 😊

@DaveVanderWekke 14 дней назад

That is correct. This is why some of these RF device remotes still use A23 12V batteries.

@boxxdrmtb 13 дней назад

I wonder what the consequences are if the limit switch doesn't get triggered. Will the motor just burn up in the screen? I'm sure it has some kind of protection.

@c0deman057 11 дней назад

@@boxxdrmtb It wouldn't burn up but he would have a bigger mess than that to deal with. The screen would continuously unroll forever until it filled his house. Yikes!

@rossbixley3173 11 дней назад

@DaveVanderWekke I have far too many remotes both IR and RF and also an intense dislike for Alexa type go-betweens so I choose to store both IR and RF codes on a single IR Programmable remote control using 433Mhz remote extenders as converters which means I can also use an RF remote on my key chain to control my main IR items.

@ski4jeepin 15 дней назад

Screen goes up. Screen goes down. Screen goes up. Screen goes down.

@SaltyPuglord 15 дней назад

"You can't explain that!" 😁

@doubledarefan 15 дней назад

Like Frank Howarth putting "Bed goes up/down" on his CNC machine.

@davidbroadfoot1864 15 дней назад

OK, Homer.

@cloudbase7799 10 дней назад

@@davidbroadfoot1864 You misspelled _mooning gnome_ 😁

@velvetjones8634 8 дней назад

I wish you would have started your comment with SPOILER ALERT. Now I know the ending!

@charetjc 13 дней назад

The wheel on the limit switch is so the trigger mechanism can slide by the switch instead of crashing into it, because 13:05 can crush the switch and cause a malfunction. Use a mechanical switch along side the path of motion, not in the path of motion.

@RandomBogey 15 дней назад

4:05 I actually enjoy seeing the code. It doesn’t need a line-by-line walkthrough of what and how every little bit works because I get how that would be overwhelming/boring for someone who doesn’t understand code at all. But, I like even a quick scroll through of the code, that I can pause and look through, because, like watching someone’s physical build process, I enjoy seeing how someone else solved a problem, compared to how I might do it, and seeing what tidbits I could potentially use to solve problems in my own projects.

@robert5 5 дней назад

I agree show the code... at the end with a code warning... lol. Id watch if he explains it line by line

@aXfranXa День назад

he puts the github in the description but i dont even know how to use python with arduino XD

@Weavermicro 15 дней назад

This is extremely similar to how a garage door works. There was a class I took in college about PLCs. One of the assignments was to make a garage door works. There was a switch at the top to stop it from going too far up and a switch at the bottom to stop it from going too far down. One of the objectives in that assignment was also allowing it to stop in the middle and allow it to go to the top or bottom from any position.

@jackrenders8937 10 дней назад

I had to do this with only hardware buttons and contacter relais, no software or logic board

@pm5906 5 дней назад

Pretty simple latch/unlatch

@Unbreathless 15 дней назад

Those remote screens usually have a manual setting in them to tell them where to stop. There’s a yellow hex key spot on the left side where the power enters. You can turn that to adjust the stopping point.

@Photokapi 15 дней назад

I love how you simplify seemingly ultra complex systems into components. It's something I sometimes struggle with, but I enjoy watching your videos, because they remind me I can do more complicated things if I break them down into smaller tasks.

@jareddilley 14 дней назад

Another possible solution is to use an IR RF smart hub which can mimic the signal sent from the remote

@renx99 12 дней назад

I think this option would be a lot easier

@hamadyousef6956 9 дней назад

yupe.. was scrolling to search for a comment like this.. using something like Broadlink RM will be more convenient

@bensmith3890 9 дней назад

Flirc is pretty much exactly that, an arm chip with an IR receiver.

@gregmullins1296 15 дней назад

I loved this video!!! Thank you again for showing us a way to use basic electronics to enhance our lives. I bought the course months ago and just ordered your kit for it. Looking forward to future projects.

@user-pw6zw6ji4s 15 дней назад

A much elegant solution is to replace the mechanic switch with a reed relay with a long wire and a magnet embedded on the screen's back and hide this box entirely. There's no need to make changes on software or the esp.

@mmustangg2 11 дней назад

So actually NOT $3? How much were all these components really?

@hardrocklobsterroll395 6 дней назад

An ESP8266 based board will do you for simple applications like this. It can be had for

@ac_mystic2291 День назад

Around 10 usd

@killerbye1985 15 дней назад

I would have used a reed sensor with the magnet on the back of the bottom of the screen. Then you could have run a very thin cable to the controller, located in a different spot. But that's a personal choice. Cool little project.

@RayCase 6 дней назад

When I was doing custom electronics, I used to say 'we still have to case test it' You experienced why that is necessary. I really like your videos

@rickypacheco 15 дней назад

Glad you used a 2x2 to attach the switch to the wall. Us woodworking nerds need our fix. Got the course a while ago looking for the right project to jump in and learn.

@timgolnik 15 дней назад

My favorite kind of ILTMS video. Great job!

@PeterPociask 15 дней назад

This is really cool. I'd love to see a version of this that replaces the remote entirely with SDR. A retrofit for the entire wall controller with built in limit switches/rotary encoder would be cool in that you could use it for other stuff around the house.Also, looking online, it seems like it is possible your current controller actually has limit switch pins that just aren't hooked up to anything...

@bigfatbill5187 15 дней назад

As usual, you have come up with an intuitive idea to solve a “problem”. Bravo.

@eddie25445 10 дней назад

there was no problem, and the solution is way more complicated than the original remote.

@donembutido 15 дней назад

Amazing project! “Alexa, it’s movie time” Epic.. There’s one thing I don’t get, what board was used for this? Looks like an ESP, but that WeMo emulator project is for raspberry PI. what raspberry PI can we get for $3?

@OldCurmudgeon3DP 15 дней назад

Level shifters are another option to convert 3v3 to 5v or 12v; no moving parts and miniscule power draw. Tasmota & ESPHome are other code options that work well for this type of project, but I'm not sure how well they integrate w/ cloud services. I keep (almost) all my automation under local-only control.

@woogaloo 15 дней назад

I don't need this idea for setting up a movie room in my house, but I do like how you spelled out what you were doing - even changing it each time. I have a gate that uses IR opening and closing and I am thinking this might work really well. It would allow me to open the gate from anywhere or set up a "as I arrive at the house - open" command.

@makernova8160 15 дней назад

That came out awesome! I had been looking for Alexa-Arduino integration for the longest time and now I have it, thanks!

@mvdwetering 15 дней назад

Made something similar to press buttons on my screen remote. The basic idea is the same by using a microcontroller to "press" the buttons. However I did want to keep the original remote usable. So I made a small connector on the back of the remote that has both sides of the up/down buttons (I did not need the stop since my screen is adjustable). If for whatever reason my automation fails I can still just press the original buttons or take the remote out. I avoided the 12V power issue by creating separate circuits by using optocouplers which are a lot smaller and cheaper than relais. And I used ESPhome, just because it integrates easily with Home Assistant. It also supports covers so it is natural to control with up/down controls (or speach if you wanted).

@michaelw7249 12 дней назад

Me and my son did something similar with an air conditioner and a heater and a generator. We just used an esp32 IR and RF receiver to get the code then used transmitter to emit it. Works perfectly from anywhere and we still have the remotes in tact.

@solet007 14 дней назад

I used a Shelly 2.5 in roller shutter mode to get rid of the cumbersome controller-box of that identical screen. Whilst beeing a little bit more expensive, it gave me the perks of having a minimalistic footprint on the wall, very easy conversion and using all the advantages that a Shelly 2.5 brings with it: auto calibration and integration into my existing Shelly setup (using the Shelly app and triggering with specific scenes).

@akozaro8 15 дней назад

Very cool project! I did something similar for my garage door opener years ago. I wired a raspberry pi to a garage remote and used the same switch as you to tell whether the door was open or closed. It ran a little server with a button that let me see the status and open/close it from my phone or computer. Eventually I decided to make a v2 with an ESP board using ESPHome and integrate it into Home Assistant. This allowed me to also integrate it into my HomeKit so I didn't have to open any apps or go to a webpage. I also used a magnetic switch here so the door isn't rubbing up against a switch directly. Instead of wiring this one to a remote, I used a relay and wired it directly to the screws on the opener. One thing I noticed is it doesn't look like you're using any flux when you solder. I didn't either at first, but it changed my world when I started. Much cleaner solder connections and you don't struggle as much to get the solder the stick.

@mazcatza 11 дней назад

Just buy solder with flux core. Works fine and no need to faff with extra flux. Each to their own.

@Fess_goat_problem 8 дней назад

First time I have seen your channel. Like the explanations and the have a go attitude. I also tinker with electronics

@gabrielnori7830 15 дней назад

Love the idea! I really recommend using ESPhome with Home Assistant for automations like this. ESPhome allows to configure the MCU using a YAMl file, that can be pretty much copied from the internet. Also, it's possible to connect directly to the controller and even get the screen position!

@Thomo27 15 дней назад

I wonder if having the screen rest on the limit switch for long periods of time is good for the thin metal arm. I may be wrong, but probably would also be pretty easy to code in for it to go up 1cm on hitting it.

@TaylorPeterson913 6 дней назад

I did something similar to a govee led light strip that only used Bluetooth. I taped the buttons, and the three color channels to preserve the old controls and get more smart features.

@domino089 15 дней назад

I see regulator on the remote control board, so obviously it takes 12v from the battery to 3.3 or so.

@prozacgodretro 2 дня назад

As you've discovered - I've also found that a lot of those remotes that use 12v batteries just do so to increase range, often the chips can/will run on 5v (or I guess less) just with a really reduced range, so if you're going to store it somewhere in a nearby location to the blinds... just power it with 5v! Well done video, thanks!

@maxdarkdog5051 15 дней назад

there are some IR and RF remotes compatible with Amazon and Google assistant avaliable for 15$ on aliexpress that's the way i choosed for tv, ceiling fans and climate control

@DIYtechie 13 дней назад

I did the same with my cheap 100 inch screen 15 years ago and an arduino uno. With an ESP and ESPHome it is now way easier. And a simple transmitter instead of a remote hack. But did the screen not stop automatically when it was fully down? Never tried a screen that just continued to run until it got stuck. If that is the case, I would prefer adding relays directly to the screen and control it that way. Or add a sensor to male the motor a servo.

@NakaNakaDerkaDerka 15 дней назад

Thanks so much for this vid. Very interesting to me as I have sufficient bases on simple elec and mostly business programming, so not hardware but business process in higher languages.

@markwatts7634 15 дней назад

Simply set the limits for stopping the screen at the correct height. Usually a couple of button presses in the remote, this enters the set up mode. Then you just need up/down controls. Also some wall mount controllers have 0V contacts inside for integration with control systems.

@mark-anthonyjarboe 11 дней назад

Another awesome project. I’ve wanted to, but have been procrastinating on signing up for Arduino for makers…this video really shows me a good insight in a way I would use it even more so now I’m definitely going to have to make the time.

@iaincampbell4422 11 дней назад

I used a smart IR device to mimic infra red remote presses...but always love a DIY solution. As a felloe 3d printer i always like seeing a limit switch employed!

@GigaDanMan 13 дней назад

Very cool! I have the same screen, and luckily, my BroadLink RM4 Pro can emulate the RF remote. And it plays nice with Home Assistant. 😄 I’m going to try your method though to tap into the remote for our power adjustable mattress base. 👍🏻

@mikewanner556 15 дней назад

This is awesome!!! This type of vid is what makes my Saturday and gets my brain thinking of the possibilities!! Next, can you and and make your own automated blackout curtains?!?!?! Or atleast pre-made blackouts curtains with a diy smart controller!!! Routines are the best! I have them to wake up, light up house in the morning or when smart door is unlocked via code! Or using smart things, i added the trigger of a philips hue switch to activate both hues bulbs and a kasa switch!! I also had a routine that would set my Echo studio to a certain iHeartRadio station at a certain time!! The options are endless!!

@xlerb2286 6 дней назад

Those little ESP-32 boards are amazing. I remember working with much larger, more expensive, and much, much less capable microcomputer boards. There was a little Z-80 board I did a lot with back in the day. It cost ~$60, ran at 4MHz, had 32K ROM, 8K RAM, a couple serial ports and 24 bits of parallel I/O, and that was it.

@gunnaralv 12 дней назад

I do this alot, but I always like to isolate the buttonpresses completely from the buttons I modify and the ESP-device. Using optocouplers makes this perfect. Then I just need 3.3/5V for the ESP and just leave the thing as original as it was. By doing this the ESP and the other thing is galvanically isolated.

@paulcharette6400 15 дней назад

Bob, I have your course and have watched through it. I have the elegoo starter kit as well - only thing I am lacking is time currently. Hope to one day be able to understand and implement cool stuff similar to you. Have a great day.

@mattglandorf9077 11 дней назад

This is awesome, I have a weird situation im trying to figure out an answer like this for. I got some cool can type recessed lights on amazon, they have regular light and a nightlight feature. If you turn your switch on it turns lights on, but if you flip them off and on again within 5 seconds the nightlight turns on. cant find a smart switch that allows this to happen within seconds, it would be 1 minute between. The goal was to allow the switch to work, but at a set time have the nightlight come on automatically.

@miketrent7976 15 дней назад

Bob - I love the occasional Arduino projects you do. Keep em coming!

@MCsCreations 15 дней назад

Brilliant work, Bob! Really well done! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

@crabbydad8931 9 дней назад

learning to remove smart stuff is smarter

@NVAfilm 9 дней назад

I just started using home assistant on my server, so there is no cloud.

@roycsinclair 6 дней назад

Screen most likely already has limit switches so it knows when to stop but whether the electronics for that are built into the screen case or the hardwired remote is a question but the reality is that when you decided to go to hard wiring the remote you should have also switched to altering the already hard wired switch leaving your remote fully functional and fully remote. But of course this was REALLY just an example of how to make something into a smart something and at that you still succeeded 100%.

@pembroke9792 6 дней назад

Hi Bob, would a reed switch and magnet work in this situation too? I guess it would affect the aerial of the transmitter more than the mechanical limit switch but could be a neater solution.

@jackburton5085 3 дня назад

Instead of the lmit-switch, calculate how many seconds it takes for the motor to extend the screen to the length you need, and add the maximum time to the code.

@ianhaylock7409 2 дня назад

My thoughts as well.

@felixschmid 5 дней назад

Hey, i'm pretty new to this stuff, how do you know which side of the switch needs to be powered by the I/O Pins? And how do you determine the needed voltage?

@NewsGeeksFR 9 дней назад

Hi ! Nice video! I have one question : How do you know which voltage you need to put to the button pad through ESP pins without friyng the remote board? Did you solder to the ground pad or the other pad ?

@TechTonor 10 дней назад

Did you check the frequency of the signals? I know, as a beginner, starting to snit that kind of signals is next level, but that would be a good option to "bump up the level", for a future video 👍.

@BorisSiber 3 дня назад

I've done it with broadlink rm pro (which I use for all gadgets that have a remote controller). in google home's routine just define for how long (in sec.) should curtain go up or down

@pietgdgc 12 дней назад

heej bob, nice way to automate this. but one thing, i would add some sort of bracket that guides the screen towards the limit switch at the bottom. because if there is a bit of wind (door closing or something), the screen might move a bit and miss the limit switch

@jzupancic77 6 дней назад

6:53 Transformers are for AC voltage conversion, while buck-boost converters are for DC voltage regulation

@jivandabeast 12 дней назад

Sick project! Couple of things I might suggest for the next one: - i wouldn't solder crimped jumper cables like that! Those things are expensive!! - esphome is really great and may serve your purposes - optocouplers are the technically correct way to have two circuits (of this size, doesnt make sense for a relay like you mention at 12:38) with different power sources interact with each other (i know you ended up using usb for everything but this is feedback on the original plan) Granted, I'm not an electrical engineer but this is just stuff ive learned over the years doing Arduino

@sharpfang 10 дней назад

Relay makes sense for controlling something like 230V. For a 12V button an optocoupler would be enough.

@charlesnielsen4379 13 дней назад

Do you like to use teensy microcontrollers and what are your thoughts on advantages/disadvanges vs arduino

@techtrashing 12 дней назад

I think its possible to integrate a 433mhz transmitter for use with the ESP32 - Which should remove the need to integrate with an existing remote remote control. They are only a few bucks and could also be used in projects such as Car Garage door openers etc.

@TiagoCotrim 6 дней назад

I just got a Harmony remote and hub with IR blasters. Not fancy, but super cheap on marketplace, and my whole home theatre is automated 😁

@theyallhateme2272 15 дней назад

If the shade motor is consistent enough, couldn't you eliminate the limit switch with software? Something like "Lower shade 12.8 seconds then send Stop command". Then you could mount the box on the projector, out of sight. Too bad it wasn’t IR, then you could just clone it instead of hijacking the remote.

@ToastyMozart 15 дней назад

Using Dead Reckoning with systems like this tends to be a bit risky. It's prone to stalls, overshooting, and drifting over time.

@devon20002 14 дней назад

Have you looked for the setting stop screws on one side on the roller inside the housing? setting those correctly wont require pushing the stop button. up is up, down will go down to setting.

@entmeister 16 дней назад

Does your screen not already have a limiter you can set max and min limits internally? So you can just hit up/down and it stops. I know ones Ive installed do, but those are commercial, seems like a bad design if residential,/consumer ones don't already as well

@AnthonyCotto 16 дней назад

^ I'm wondering the same. I had one of these $100 screens and it has a limiter to dial in the stop position when lowered.

@philippeantonietti 12 дней назад

I had a similar idea :) nice to see someone had the same thought and actually tried

@nitababcock3977 15 дней назад

So cool! I know a little of that stuff, I used to work for a circuit board company.

@KegRaider 10 дней назад

hall effect sensor in the window surround with a magnet on the bottom of the screen would be tidy i reckon.

@erikswenson2659 9 дней назад

Don”t you need a second limit switch to turn off the screen after it is fully retracted following the screen up process?

@ping170 13 дней назад

Powering the remote at 3.3v most likely impedes the range, hence the sensitivity to switch proximity ! Great troubleshooting on this one, and awesome final product 👍

@kameljoe21 15 дней назад

Question? Could you have programmed it to run the screen down for a set amount of time. For example the down button is only pressed for a set amount of time to go down. Say 30 seconds and the same to go back up. This would have remove the need for a limit switch. A simple smart wall plug would have provided every thing you needed. The switching would trigger the command to go down and the off would command it to go back up.

@dryued6874 15 дней назад

That would probably work, but in practice things like this end up being somewhat unreliable - the kind of thing you need arcane knowledge for to kick in the right place when it starts to act up. For example, if the motor clogs up or the voltage dips, which results in the screen moving slower, it will only go down halfway. Tracking the state to at least some degree and responding to its change is the proper way to do it. The way I like to think about things like these is, imagine you only know what the machine "knows" about the system and only do with it what the machine can do - are you going to be able to control the system reliably with that knowledge and these capabilities? In this case, you'll basically be controlling the screen blind (and deaf) - you can probably control it to some degree, but there may be hiccups.

@garagemonkeysan 15 дней назад

Nice hack and video. Another approach would be to hack the receiver unit itself. Then you'd still have your stock remote as a backup. Mahalo for sharing! : )

@andrecanis4894 15 дней назад

Or you could probably leave both devices intact, and just hijack the remote‘s IR signal. There’s bound to be a way to let the Arduino send IR and have it learn the right signals.

@DavydAtkins 15 дней назад

Question: why did you not buy a smart IR/RF transmitter like the ones broadlink makes? With that you'd not only be able to control your blinds, but any other RF or IR remote controlled device in the space?

@drdax 3 дня назад

Do you hook up the arduino pins to the positive or negative side of the switch to fake the button press? Did you just send an output of high for a second to mimic the press?

@avocadoarms358 14 дней назад

Like smoke alarms they run on a lower voltage than the voltage of the battery supplied because they can run for longer before the battery drops below the devices minimum voltage.

@mikailkopuz8488 9 дней назад

nice video. one question: why didn't you timecontrol the motor? that way you did not need an extra sensor to stop the motor

@zrig1 8 дней назад

For those not familiar. ESP32 dev boards are not Arduinos. Yes Arduino has an ESP32 based board. Just pointing this out because when you choose your editor you will need to know what board you have because GPIO pins are not always the same from one board to another.

@ScottKraft 10 дней назад

Instead of a relay (if you had needed one) you can use a logic level shifter. I used one with an ESP32 to control hundreds of addressable LEDs on a Magic Wheelchair project.

@doubledarefan 15 дней назад

Bob: "Alexa, it's movie time!". Audience: "Alexa, please ignore everything you hear on RU-vid!".

@sweetmtb3561 12 дней назад

How many times did everyone say "Alexa Stop!"???

@michaelgasperik4319 10 дней назад

I also like to make stuff, and I'm good with electronics. I have an arduino uno for testing/playing with, but I need to learn the code, which I think is only part of C++. The only code I ever used before was G.W. Basic 2.2 in the early 80's. Which is kinda like saying that I speak English and I know Spanish and now I need to learn Norwegian.

@neoc03 12 дней назад

I did something simliar but copied the infrared bursts and added my own IR led to the ESP to act as the remote.

@VonWalther2 14 дней назад

Thank you for making a video on something that was such a well ya, that's how I would do that. It's just I never thought of that before and now I will, thanks to you.

@drdax 15 дней назад

I took the arduino course and it was quite good. I don’t have Alexa though, I have google. I never figured out to do it unfortunately. I’d love to see a video on how to get google to work with esp modules

@pvtpy1e 15 дней назад

I was going to say, how are you going to interact with a 12v circuit without a relay. If it's just 3.3v you just need to either pull up or pull down on one side of the button to cheese the circuit. Very cool. I've got an smart integration project coming up and this has given me something to think about.

@themeandrousengineer 12 дней назад

I've thought about using Arduino in the shop before, but haven't the inspiration for any real implementation. This was pretty great and hints at the true potential that a lot of people could achieve once they know the fundamentals.

@FilmFactry 12 дней назад

You know if the is a standard IR remote, you can just attach an IR led, and there are libraries to simulate any remote control.

@gymkhanadog 12 дней назад

Hah! I was doing this _years_ ago by just using the 12v trigger on the projector plugged into a spare remote. But this is a brilliant idea considering you can pretty much only get ESPs in 5 packs. Got a few of them around!

@jimrosson6702 13 дней назад

So crazy wish I understood more of this stuff but very cool to watch great video

@Roobotics 15 дней назад

Those 12v cells seem to be more common in RF style remotes, I think the idea is it's far easier to modulate a strong RF signal with less complexity, by just having a higher voltage to work from than a 3v button cell.

@nikolajsromanovs9898 15 дней назад

Alexa routines allows to use time frame. Instead of using off button would be easier to measure how many seconds takes to roll it down as needed and do a routine "screen down ON" "wait 29 seconds" "screen down OFF". Same for UP, but with different seconds as I believe it may takes longer to pull it up

@cocotoni1977 13 дней назад

How do you get it to stop at the top of the cycle? Or is there a built in limit switch in the device for that purpose? What happens with the device if you tell it to turn screen down but don't stop it? Does it have a limit switch for that as well?

@Iliketomakestuff 13 дней назад

It has built in switches at the very top and bottom of the screen. The issue is that the bottom is WAY past where I need it to stop (like 18")

@TheTwinkletoad 13 дней назад

Couldnt you forgo the switch and just use a timer like when you tell it to lower it, soon as it starts, it starts a timer, then you do a reverse of the counter to stop it. when it hits zero its done? and you count the time for it to reach the bottom and when it does you know thats max? you could also say anything you wanted like put it 1/4 down or 1/2 down or 3/4 or whatever you want all based on time.

@JamesTenniswood 15 дней назад

Just use esphome and an IR receiver/transmitter. You could then use a door sensor to know when it's down. No wiring required (m5stack make these plug and play)

@BAHBDL 10 дней назад

So many comments with so many different ways someone would have done this. And while your correct most of them could be done that way, everyone needs to remember he's making this content for everyone and not just those of us who have backgrounds in DIY electronics. I have done this plenty of times to get around proprietary Garage door switches when trying to automate them in a home. Most don't have straight contact relays anymore and you have to fake them or pay for an expensive subscription to automate them. My one question in this though is, in the software did you set the button presses to be momentary or always pressed? When on the breadboard testing with LEDs they appeared to be set as an off/on state which would cause the remote to constantly transmit rf to the receiver causing noise in the environment that may interfere with other devices and can also lead to early transmitter failure since I'm sure the remote wasn't designed for a constant duty cycle in mind. Just a curious observation that wasn't covered in the video. Thanks for all the video you make! Always enjoy seeing what you come up with!