6: I got a 7MGTE Block from a YouTube Viewer! Is it Any Good?!? Measuring, Assessing & Electrolysis! 

LOL (or here in Canada) - love it "mint"

im just gonna say, my fender trim is barely holding on, so i zip tied it

@@mastersergant1287 kewl storie broh

I've had more rust than that form overnight. Pure Michigan.

rust? that is just overnight in Ohio. a bit of Schoch bright will clean that right up. i have had more rust on small block Chevy heads that sat overnight. lol

Ditto - to increase the capabilities of the anode keep that cable out of the solution as well and use a conductive connection to the block (I've used a bolt and piece of chain around a large piece so maybe the same idea in the many holes on the block).

Some people will coil an anode in a plastic 55gal barrel to surround the entire block.

Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Tom Davidson is right. A simple 12v 1 amp power adapter is sufficient.

It's the same thing with electroplating, right? If you've got a surface that is hidden from the anode by another surface of the part it'll end up with either no plating or a very very thin layer of plating compared to the surfaces that aren't "hidden" from the anode.

I know this might go in a different direction than what you guys are talking about. But have you thought about laser cleaning?

That sounds awesome!!! I'll definitely check it out, thank you!!

Ahhh that's so cool!! My dad's a chemist, too!!

in place of installing cylinder bore sleeves what about selectively electro plating the bores to build them up enough to be remachined to OEM spec?

OH MY GOSH!!! Hey Jake, what's up!!

@@FayeHadley haha good memory! Keep the videos coming 🤘

pop shot at the bin

I love evapo as well, but it can stain the block that cool black color. may effect the look she is going for.

@@Psychonaut_ electrolysis will achieve the same black color if left to run long enough. You're essentially exchanging the bad red iron oxide for good black iron oxide. This is one way that black oxide finishes are achieved on steel and iron.

😂😂😂 he did! He's well practiced o think!!

What a great idea!!!! I ended up putting some blocks on either side, but that's a really good idea too!!

Com' on maaan, at what percentage? I know PB Blaster works GREAT on rusty things.

@@MrDLRu grab a gallon jug from Walmart and a big Rubbermaid. Dump in the gallon of CLR and top the tub off with water. Doesn't need to be an exact ratio. Simple diy dip tank for removing rust and crud. 👍🏻

White vinegar does better, cheaper. You do have to neutralize it after so it doesn't continue to eat away metal, but literally the best rust remover if your not worried about paint, or plastic

Thank you SO much!!!

Thanks for watching!!!

Oh my gosh, thank you so much, Steve!! I really appreciate it! Depending on how far into the archives you go, you can actually watch the whole story of how I met Danny with my other supra engine build (more cylinder head focused, so these two series will cover the full engine build!!) Thanks so much for the sub, I really appreciate it!!

I need a more old school one, I think!! I'll keep my eyes out at the swap meet next time!!

Putting the battery in between is an easy solution that works. Probably easier than finding an old-school charger or expensive power supply.

@@FayeHadley You just need to use something other than a battery charger that puts out around 12-15v. Things like old power bricks from laptop computers work. Also, increasing the anode surface area will speed up the process, but you'll need to run rods down the centre of the cylinders and connect them all together... electrolysis is dependent on current density so the closer to the anode, the faster they will etch while the far corner where you've connected the negative will not clean up at all because the cast iron is WAY less resistance than the electrolyte. Hope some of that helps. Good luck! Be interesting to see what results you get.

He's definitely a special type of human. A natural teacher. And I love to soak up knowledge 😁

@@FayeHadley he's lucky to have enthusiastic ears (with some quality grey matter in between them) to talk to as well.

Thanks so much for watching!!!😀

Oh my gosh, I'm so jealous!! (In a really happy for you way!!!)

What a great idea!!!

I was scanning the replies to see if anyone else brought this up. Regular old rebar seems to work the best as an anode. And yes washing soda. I scoured the swap meets and junk stores for old battery chargers to use. I have several that won't shut off. Wall warts and power supplies for electronics work well too. The brown water is biodegradable and can be used on your rose bushes. Be safe out there and use plenty of ventilation just in case. You are so right about line boring and line honing. If you have an out of spec block All is not lost. When you align bore you remove material from the cap only. First you use a mill or surface grinder to remove material from the cap on the flats. Once you do that the caps can be reinstalled and torqued to spec. The block is indicated so that the bottom of the bore the solid part not the cap is zero. You want to remove all the material from the cap. If you just bored through it your timing gears will be tight or chain loose. You bore to within .002" and hone to finish size. Years ago there was a company that made bearing shells that were oversize. It might have been Hastings but I just don't remember. We used them on Detroit Diesel blocks mostly I think. Don't quote me as I was the rookie greenhorn in the shop that started out sweeping and tending the hot tank. I learned and could do everything in that shop, slowly. I had to do stuff step by step and the old hands were a lot faster. By the time I left they had bought a brand new crankshaft grinder for me to run. But alas my dad got cancer and I had to move back home. That was 1979 so my memory is a bit fuzzy. Blocks can be saved, just keep a nice cash reserve because it ain't gonna be cheap. Be safe out there Cheers Terry

Thank you SO MUCH Aaron!! Welcome!! :))

Thank you so much!!

Thanks, Trump!

This! I use this all the time and the power supply is awesome. Prior to this, I kept a battery in series with the charger to keep "smart" chargers from giving up.

Welcome!! :))

@@FayeHadley why thank you, I look forward for the more in depth explanation of procedures when coming across potential parts to use instead of just building.

Yes, we have one in Houston too that I've bought from before!!

My cousin in law actually painted both the turbo block and n/a block Ford blue. Wanted it to be easier to detect if there were any leaks.

That giant shop door in the background is open for this process except at night and for filming due to noise!

Thank you!😀

@@FayeHadley she's only 2, but she's definitely gonna be helping uncle restore our 1949 Packard. 😊