Nice build you have. I went with the same combo rods and pistons on my 7mgte I built earlier this year. I am aiming for 500 to 600 whp with e85 running the Sound Performance 6262 bolt-on Percussion Turbo. So far I just finished the engine break in at 1k miles and just put in the BC 264 cams a few days ago. Next I am redoing the engine wiring harness for the ECU Masters standalone this winter.
Shwalker07 thats sick dude!! The only thing i havent done is cams. And the 264s are the ones i would like to do aswell since you dont have to upgrade valvetrain. Do you happen to have a video of her idling??! And im also gonna be running ecu master, but isnt it plug and play? Why do you need to rewire your harness?
Those 264 cams made a very nice difference compared to stock and pull way harder from about 3k rpms. Still have to change a few valve shims as some have a higher clearance than the BC spec. Have you heard of running comp 975-12 valve springs? They are from a Chevy v8 but drop right in the 7m and help with valve float at higher boost. Its funny that it's for a v8 but they sell them in 12 packs at summit racing for around $30 because I think so many 7m guys ask for them. Right now I am still on the oem ecu and electronics but the ecu masters kit i bought from DriftMotion is a plug-n-play kit that came with the pigtail for my 87. For me I wanted to freshen up the OEM engine harness with new wiring/connectors, get rid of as many sensors/wiring I do not need, add some sensors such as the e85 content sensor/air intake temp and wire it up for sequential fuel injection. By the time I do all this the plug-n-play adapter is unfortunately almost useless. I made a wiring chart of the pigtail using the OEM ecu pins to the pins of the ecu masters standalone so when I make the new harness they will go to the right pins. What is also nice is the ecu masters standalone comes with 2 new connectors and all the pins you need to make a harness yourself. If I was to do it again I would of just bought the standalone without the pigtail. I'll upload a video on my channel sometime soon before I pull the engine wiring harness.
Shwalker07 dang dude! I think your build is a bit more intense then mine! But i would also love to follow your process man, so if you make videos id love to see. As far as for me this car was elderly owned so all my plugs and pins are in really good condition. Also my main goal is to get 450-550 on pump gas (91) which i know its possible. That way when Supras In Vegas or Toyota Fest in california or any other major show id love to cruise there and not worry about fuel you know. Hats my goal
Shwalker07 ohhh and no man i havent herd of those valve springs that is pretty crazy though. My brake setup ill be using Mercedes brembo calipers off a 90s benz and i believe 370z rotors if i remember correct lol its a very cheap upgrade and they are huge brembos 🙌🏼🙌🏼
Nice man, well you definitely earned a new subscriber and can wait for your next update on your build. I am going to publish my whole build with all my pictures on SupraMania and Supraforums very soon if you are ever over there. For now though I have to catch up on some of your older videos.
No you don't put any assembly Lube underneath the main bearings they do not consist of any moving Parts it has no benefit at all to put assembly Lube under the bearing you put assembly Lube on the bearing not under
Gotcha, dont think im not taking your advice im just saying that we have been doing it for years on the 7M, might not have any benefit on the bottom side but we always have done it.
lockjawjak well on initial start up there will be no oil on them whatsoever, so the lubricant put on them is for the first start up. But then again everyone does it different
You shouldn't and don't need to lube between the bearring and block or caps. They don't turn unless they are failing. You use a proper assembly lube (not white grease as it cakes up think of a chapstick consisenty) only on the bearring surface on the crank side. A proper assembly lube is cheap compared to a set of bearring rods or crankshaft. Yes I'm a engine builder from motorcycles to heavy diesel to tug boat diesels as well as performance including my son's Supra 7mgte and 2 non turbo. Also built my turbo first gen neon.
haha this is the comment I was looking for! Heavy line Diesel mechanic here and the answer is no your not. Assembly lube on the the wear face only. LFATV ~ you get lucky sometimes thats all there is to it. No hate just education. Forged rods aren't better btw.
Great video man and selling my subie to eventually get into a manual mk3 turbo. Your channel has great information. Only thing I suggest is creating playlist for certain things. I was looking for videos on your mk3 on your channel and nit gonna lie, kind of messy and hard to tell which videos connect to each other. Up to you but as a subcriber it makes it easier to navigate all your posted videos. You have hella of them lol. Not hating only suggesting to improve the channel
Steven Marzullo engine is still very healthy, although i never really pushed too much power through her. She was last about 400hp new setup will be alot higher
@@-LFATV That's good. Clearly greasing both sides of the bearings didn't give you any problems. I've had 4 MK3 Supras over the year's and I'm starting to get that itch again.
Steven Marzullo no sir i mean if you think about it oil makes it way through them through the galleys anyway so the grease in our opinion helps them stay lubed during initial start up.. thats the theory
11:10 WHO is using a mallot to drop the pistons in ?? If they are, they don't need to be working on an engine. I just got the cheap auto zone piston ring compressor and dropped them in with my fingers the same way you did. As most engine builders have told me the rings need to be compressed from the outside going in at equal distance. Your compressor is a fixed size so you have to use your fingers to compress the rings so that you can slide the compressor over it. It works but i guess everyone has their own method. 12:14 & 13:17 Did you deck the block ?? What are those black spots by the water jacket holes ?? is that the old head gasket material that is still left there ?
Awesome video, just dropped block at machine shop couple days ago. Looking at the wiseco pistons and eagle rods. You like the 9.0:1 ratio? Are those eagle rods you used? (I have always lubed both sides) great build!
Joseph Manna lube is for initial start, u dont think oil goes there either?? we have been doing that for yeaarrrsss never had a problem but thanks for looking out
How much is the cost to have 7mgte rebuilt? Just in parts? I Just picked up here in Phoenix a turbo 89 Supra targa top for 800.00 but has a spun bearing. Would really appreciate an answer.
With forged piston and rods you are well within spec and weights are done in the factory. You can take one step further and have the entire rotating assembly balanced but it's a waste on a mild build so this will be better than stock and acceptable by any builder of 7m's
Actually, if you are talking about assembling an engine correctly, you need to balance each piston and connecting rod seperately, usually to .1 grams is sufficient. The entire rotating assembly must then be balanced, on any build, if you want the engine to last as long as OEM. It doesnt cost much, and saves main bearings. Every single set of piston rings I've ever installed has had to be filed to the proper gap.
MRC Tuned definitely! I was asked on FB aswell if the rings were properly gapped and pistons were balanced. But we dis follow spec as to them being forged pistons, there is a slight difference from the gap on the cast pistons but we got them dialed down. She is currently running beautifully
Hi Im currently in the process of disassembling my own 7mgte, and i noticed that i have the same discolouration on the crank next to the bearings. Is this normal? I realize the colouration could just be from the grinding process, i just find it Odd that no further threatment has taken place, im no metallurgist But wouldnt the crank be softer where its been heated?
Its pretty normal, i would suggest taking it to a good local machine shop and they would determine if it needs any treatment other then a simple polish, mine was fine so all they did was a quick polish and it was good to go
Hi my name is Lenny and I have a 1990 Toyota Supra MK3 in trying to do a little bit engine build to it so I have a question did you bigger connecting rods or no
Andre Davis no sir no over sized bearings, i would recommend and aftermarket oil pickup line, new oil pump thats shimmed, metal head gasket with arp equipment. Those to start off with
Looks like you had your block re-decked, my dad had to have that done to his 7mgte, he has the pictures of it on his cell phone still. In my Supra I'm not goingt owast any money on the 7m, I'll be istalling a 1JZ at the end of them month when all my parts finally arrive. Good luck with your car.
Juan Camaney im not putting a gun to anybodies head saying this is the way to do it, everyone online has the correct way to go about things. Im simply recording the process in which i took on my build. And thank you for watching.
Juan Camaney i appreciate your condom reference, i always tell folks that i appreciate the feedback. Im simply replying and saying that there has been zero issues to us doing that. Especially my buddy that built my engine, has been doing it for yearrsss
