I am so happy to find this channel... finally someone who is in the same zone as me... all the other channels seem to be in zones 7 and above which doesn't do me much good here in 5b.... thank you for presenting the information in a pleasant and easy way..
I direct sowed cilantro on April 14 and they're doing pretty well now, should be good to start picking soon. They took about 3 weeks to germinate but I didn't know you were supposed to scarify them at the time.
Hi how are you, I love all of your videos and I have a learned a lot, before I should say something else I would like to Thank you from the bottom of my heart I would love to visit You sometimes When I am in Niagara Falls hope I can visit your place to learn few more things in a better way
The thing about USDA plant hardiness zones is that it doesn't mention summer temperatures. Fruiting is dependent on summer maximum temperature, not on winter minimum. I am trying going to plant melons along a south facing concrete wall this year, but in the open garden, the heat is not enough for watermelon and muskmelon to set fruit.
Hardiness zones are definitely an imperfect science, I could not agree more! Where are you, my friend? Regional adaptation in melons makes all the difference and each year we are selecting our melons for field maturity, earlier and earlier. They'll always set fruit, but without the heat they often don't sweeten, on our farm. Hope to see you on the farm one day!
island of Newfoundland, northeast coast. zone 5a, 120 days between last and first frost. but only one week where temperatures are commonly in the high 20's, low 30's Celsius. I'm growing heirlooms/open pollinated of all crops so I can save seed and get adapted varieties over time.
I am Northern California and the heat will prevent the fruit from setting. Last summer was over 110 all summer long. It was a disaster for any sort of normal gardening. I bought shade clothes - I’m ready this year.
I have to say I'm a bit skeptical about transplanting not working for zucchini... This year I started my zucchinis in late April, transplanted them on May 17 when they had their first two true leaves, and now they're 3 ft across and I just got my first female flower. I'm in Zone 6 (suburban Toronto). But most of the zucchinis were started in deep 24 oz plastic containers (ex yogurt pots with holes poked in bottom) so they didn't get too root bound. I did the same with my cucumbers, watermelon and cantaloupe. For the cucumbers we can do the experiment of transplanting vs direct sowing, I planted some on May 18 and others on May 23, and after they suffered some freak late spring cold damage on May 28 I direct sowed 9 more seeds (all of which sprouted) on May 31. The cold damaged cucumbers did survive though and are growing reasonably well now. Also apparently cucumber beetles can be an issue with direct sowing and less so with transplants? Although for me... I'm getting a fair bit on my transplants too.
Nicolas, you're thinking critically! Your transplant method sounds great. We say don't transplant, but if you do, give the seedling plenty of space in the initial container (as you've done), and gently transplant when first true leaves are present. Enjoy your bounty! Pests will generally be a more fatal problem for young seedlings. That said, they won't be able to tell the difference between transplants and direct sown cucumbers!
@@FruitionSeeds The rationale I saw for transplanting cucumbers was that the cucumber beetles like to lay eggs in the ground next to cucumber seedlings so I guess if you transplant them, they'll be a bit bigger by the time they have to fight the cucumber beetle larvae/adults whereas direct sown cucumbers would have to fend them off right away?
I have a lot of squirrels and chipmunks but they don't seem to be doing much damage to the sunflowers I direct sowed in the past few weeks. Not sure what the exact varieties are since it's a mix (Colour Fashion Mixed by OSC).
@@FruitionSeeds One of the seedlings got snipped above the false leaves since I posted that. I'm suspecting the rabbit I've seen around that part of the garden several times lately. But most of them seem untouched so far.
And yeah i alredy posted one comment.. but. I seemed to have absolutely no issues transplanting my watermelon? i put 3 seeds (if you have excelent germination rate 2 will do) in each pot and leave the strongest plant - thats how i make it be one plant per pot, i cut the excess plant with scissors, dont pull it because it will mess up neighbour plant. Since its in a pot and i just transplant it with all soil and roots undamaged it seemed to work good, especially helps to maintain plants while they are still small and sensitive if you have them in pots, and you can sow them earlier than direct sowing ofc What are your thoughts?
It's totally possible to transplant them, you just have to be careful to not constrain their roots in any way, or else your yields and overall plant health suffers. I confess, we transplant many on our farm in large 3" soil blocks. Check out our video about it :)
Thank you for all of the education! Question on Mouse Melons: I have always planted cucumbers in mounds as opposed to the flat solid i a raised bed. My silver slicers and pumpkins are in mounds. Should I do the same for Mouse Melons? Should the the silver slicers have been planted in mounds?
Depends on your site, Paul! If you have drainage issues, mounds are perfect, since cukes (and cucurbits in general) dislike having wet feet. If you have a dry site, a shallow bowl will help maintain moisture. If you're here in the Northeast, you may just be making more work for yourself, they'll be fine on solid ground, unless it's very warm/cool or wet/dry, which we never know when we sow! As a general rule though, what you do to your cukes will be grand for your Mouse Melons. Have fun!
And if you love this level of garden talk, check out our Flourish Garden Club! It's what we talk about all day long :) www.myfruitionseeds.com/p/flourish-garden-club
