Big thanks to Spencer West, a physical therapy student from Virginia US, for the help with this script and the one for the next video. The next one is about the biomechanics of deadpointing, make sure you're subscribed to watch it when it comes out this Thursday!
First part of the video was interesting from tennis point of view too. I saw that you posted a video on tennis recently. One of the biggest enemies for recreational players is that they hold the racket too tight. I have tried leave out little finger and ring finger ( holding the racket by using only 3 other fingers ) that helps in reducing the grip pressure so your wrist is loose. Would interesting if you can make a video on this. Thanks!
Wow! I am digging these climbing related videos. You actually have done your research about how climbing works which is a rarity in when non-climbing media discusses climbing. Thanks! It makes your advice helpful.
What an amazing video series. As a newer climber, I cannot stress technique enough. My arms used to get pumped all the time in the beginning; it was rather annoying because my climbing sessions became shorter and shorter. After Becoming more intentional with technique, I now feel much less exhausting during and after a session.
The Cliffs LIC at 2:43! So helpful to know that once you're pumped it's already too late and will take long to get back the strength. Need to take longer breaks earlier on
Awesome video! loved hearing more about the mechanics. I'm going to incorporate the in-between massage in my next session. Looking forward to the deadpoint video!
That's kinda weird bc one thing I've always noticed is that when I get my first pump of a climbing session and then rest for 15ish minutes I don't get pumped nearly as easily afterward and that's when all my best climbing is done.
It's called "pre-pump" and is even a thing in some professionals' training plans. Don't ask me why, but it's a thing. I think Adam Ondra has mentioned it in one of his videos.
What can we do to get oxygen back into the muscles quicker, or store more in them in the first place? As some climbers seem to be able to get back quicker while shaking out and resting on some jugs...
As unintuitive as it may seem, opening and closing your hand a few times while it’s hanging down can help you recover faster from a pump. Your veins rely a lot on your muscles to push blood back up to the heart. When you flex a muscle, the veins near and within it are squeezed, which returns blood back toward the heart and away from the extremity. So letting your arm hang but incorporating some hand opening and closing to your rest can help get everything moving and transported away from your tired arms.
This is the clearest explanation of arm pump I've ever come across and it makes so much sense. It was difficult searching google for an explanation. May I ask for your source esp for the mechanism of arm pump, for further reading? Thanks!
Awesome video. "Lactic Acid" does indeed get a bad rap. Lactate is actually the good guy! Lactate acts as a buffer by removing excess hydrogen ions out of the bloodstream. Those hydrogen ions are what cause that burning sensation you feel during exercise due to throwing off the body's ph. The excess hydrogen ions are what make things acidic, not lactate. Lactate's job is to neutralize the acidosis and bring things back to baseline. So next time you hear "gym bro" complaining about Lactic Acid, inform him that's a myth and he's blaming the wrong guy! (Not his fault, unfortunately most of us were misinformed about Lactic Acid growing up). In summary: burning sensation = excess hydrogen ions. Delayed onset muscle soreness = muscle micro tears. Sincerely, Lactate
What? Where did you hear any of this? Lactic acid is not a myth and the excess production of it via anaerobic respiration drives local pH downwards because it sits in equilibrium with both lactate and hydrogen ions.
@@smockytubers1188I'm in the field. I've studied it, wrote papers on it, and try to educate others on this when the opportunity presents itself. Lactate isn't an acid. So the term "Lactic Acid" is actually inaccurate. Lactate is present WITH h+ (when the conditions are appropriate) giving the false impression that the two are conjoined (Lactic Acid). This school of thought is outdated. Modern exercise science knows this is not the case. Lactate helps neutralize the imbalance, lactate is not causing the imbalance. Using the term Lactic Acid instead of Lactate is basically discrediting the awesome job that lactate does for us. I'll share a helpful video to expand on this below.
@@nigeldude People (not just gym bros) say "lactate" when they refer to the whole lactic acid/lactate equilibrium because it's the easier thing to measure and get a clear answer about what's happening during exercise. When we did VO2 max tests we did finger pricks and analysis for lactate also (because why not, we were already halfway there experiment wise) to also analyze anaerobic capacity. Are you saying specifically you just dislike this terminology because lactate is technically not a contributor to acidity? I guess I can understand that.
@@smockytubers1188 unfortunately a large percentage of people still think their post-workout soreness is caused by "Lactic Acid". We know DOMs is actually caused by micro-tears in the muscle, not LA. We also know excess lactate is cleared within minutes after a workout (once again proving lactate has nothing to do with soreness). The false teachings about doms causes and in-workout fatigue is what I'm trying to correct. Yes, the terminology is a problem, but it's more so the out dated science being spread that is the problem. That's all! I appreciate you diving in to this by the way, most could care less!
Your muscles also adapt to the type of activity you’re training for. You develop an appropriate mix of slow and fast twitch muscle fibers to maximize energy expenditure. Experienced climbers may take longer to get pumped because their forearm muscles have adapted to have more slow twitch fibers (these are also called “Type I” or “Slow Oxidative” fibers). These are great for endurance because they fatigue slower. That being said, you still need a healthy mix of fast twitch fibers to make powerful moves. Overall, this adaptation comes with time and consistent training.
Nuh huh, anaerobic respiration doesn't produce any significant amount of lactic acid, lactate is actually always the byproduct and it's actually a good thing since it can be used to produce energy too ☝️🤓
Thank you so much for this video! I’m going to be diligent about stretching before a gym session now! 💪😁💪 Can getting pumped too often result in permanent damage to the veins?
@brittany butterworth the odds of you being able to hold onto a wall long enough to cause damage when you’re feeling pumped would be really tough. Your body is great at making you stop doing things that will hurt it. You would probably have to have a lot of other issues going on for forearm pumps to be bad for you in the long-term.
