Bouldering starts at 05:25 Music and Sound Effects: share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn Shot and edited by Magnus Midtbø Sponsors: - Toyota - Scarpa Content 00:00 Training 05:25 Bouldering
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine. Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with. OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing! Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another. It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Another Great video, thanks. Iceclimbing is so much fun, not at all like regular climbing but for shure you are in for a treat. Wish for more outside bouldering, maybe a trip to Fontaine bleau?
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm). Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
Video schedule sounds awesome! Really excited for the ice climbing. Would love to see some collabs with other fitness youtubers like juji, back guy, or anton.
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
