Part 4 - Crankshaft Selection, Prep, Runout And Stroke Check In Depth Performance Engine Build 620+ Horse Power Street/Strip Pump Gas 454 Big Block Chevy
Been following this series and crankshaft selection is pretty important. What I would like to suggest is a little more of the why your making certain choices along with the how to do things. Like others mentioned, why not a forged crank? Why the choice? how much h.p. can the cast crank withstand...etc. Add these notes along with the how to if you could so we all get a better understanding...Thanks!
I even check run out on ammo!! Cranks I seen beat theirself to death only on main bearing. Most don't pay attention to crank or run oil scraper to reduce oil weight riding on crank. I've seen .3 sec at drag strip improvement just adding oil scraper. Great job for sharing. Old Georgis guy!
Most all of the 1970 to 1972 454 crankshafts are forged steel. It seems that 1973 started the cast iron 454 crankshafts, but those 1973 and newer 454's often come with the, "stronger", "truck" connecting rods on their cast cranks, even if they aren't truck engines.
650hp only at top end for a few seconds here and there, NA cast cranks should be fine- forged is for sustained high rpms/loads and or forced induction.
Love their videos. Mark mentioned the term "steel abraded" while outline services performed on the crankshaft. I've never heard that term. Is it synonymous with shot-peening?
Can you machine or convert a Big Block Chevy for 4 bolt mains? They look like they have plenty of material, main web width and length for new caps even??
Im building a 402bbc for street/strip and intend on running nitrous. I was planning on running a forged crank but now im wonding if a forged crank wouldnt be required. What do you recomend? Thank you for your time.
i have a crate engine ho 454 got it complete with the stock intake and cab complete engine paperwork said 450 hp at 485 torque steel crank heavy rods high flow oval port heads what do think just putting a edelbrock and a 750 double pumper holly on it would do plus get it dyno tuned i have seen videos of them getting up to 500 hp out of the stock engine set up after dyno tuning it i also have a weiland tunnel ram for it after i get a roller set up and port the valves and mech. the heads for a bigger cam then i plan on the tunnel ram . i want to stick with cast iron on cast iron the best part of this engine i have nothing in it and it has only 6000 miles on it the inside of the engine looks new and clean i put a 94 pu 454 serpentine belt on it put in a 68 short box stock it runs hard but have the other set ups sitting with the new 750 holly that i paid for it . they really went up in price been rebuilding them but have no good carbs left to rebuild been getting a ton of the edelbrocks 650 carbs i put one of them on it not much different than the stock carb but still running stock manifold mite have something to do with it
Love these videos and the builds ! Isn’t knife edging or bull nosing the crank pointless ? I’ve read gains of 5 hp and following your builds had estimates to do this to a crank I think it’s important to point out that it’s very expensive to do that for such a little gain , for the cost of that service you can buy a forged crank so isn’t this counter productive ?
I believe the benefit is a combination of many things at this power level and RPMS being turned. It lightens the crank, spins through the oil easier (HP Gain) and it keeps down on frothing the oil so you have better, more dense and stable oil pressure all the way up to 7000 rpm.
BUDGET 454, I've been at machines shops before and had them lye right to my face to see if i was dumb enough to buy there line of crap... kids do your homework and go with you gut feeling
