I'm thinking that the console was dropped. The shock snapped the choke and the hard drive caddy. Good find though. I don't think I would have found the open choke so quickly 😅
A very interesting one as I have not seen this repair or done one myself. Have you repaired the multimeter which was giving you an error in the last video?
I'm trying. I bought it broken and I thought I had it fixed as it was working well. When I received it, the rotary mode switch was 180 degrees out and sending voltages where they shouldn't go. I may buy a working one to compare against since I don't have a schematic.
12:36 - Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think here he made mistake. This solder double triangle (looks like W), is not meant to be desoldered/removed. Its actually precise airgap , if voltage is low enough, there will be no continuity, if voltage spikes (above some value, I think its 1kV for 1mm distance?) occur then it jumps in the air and there is continuity, it should be some safety measure. 20:06 - Its fast forwarded and is under glare so I couldnt see in what shape W part is...
It's a spark gap. It was left bare to help it arc easier. That's why it had solder on it, no solder mask. I don't believe removing the solder will be detrimental. It just needs to bare and leave the gap the same.
To be honest, wherever I can find them. If I can identify a part and it is common, Mouser or Digi-Key. If it's not a common off-the-shelf part, eBay or AliExpress. Some parts can only be sourced from a donor board.
I recently got an xbox one S from a scrapyard for $5. It does not turn on and needs a deep cleaning. The motherboard looks fine but the power supply does not show 12V when I give it power. What could be the issue?
@@alectrona6400 I would probably start by disconnecting the power supply from the circuit board and test to see if it outputs 12V then. If there is no 12V from the supply, you need to replace the supply. If there is 12V when the supply is disconnected, there is probably a short on the main PCB that will have to be repaired.
@@ToltecMerc Turns out I didn't check the voltages right, the PSU shows 12V. The small mosfets on the board appear to be okay but I did see there is a short on the row of 820uf 2.5V capacitors, and using the diode function on my multimeter shows 0V. Is there a bad capacitor?
hey my xbox one s slim same one turns itself off in no time bound manner sometims in 10 mins sometimes in 3-4 hour i had reapplied thermal paste tried running it with open lid (so no hot air stuck issue causing overheating) any idea what could be the issue? a video online said ncp4205 could be the issue. if u had similar situation can u share anyinsight? and could it be power supply rather than chip i.e power supply not reacting to more request when asked does power supply has this much brain to get dud like that or power supply is more like a dumb box if it runs its ok? no corrosion on board or on that chip
What could the problem be if my xbox is dead and when I connect it the internal power supply makes a constant biiiiiip (sound effect). I cleaned it and checked its voltage, its 12.05 ish.Checked the V with the power supply disconnected from the console and then I connected it again and checked the voltage on the same capacitator that you checked ( but you got 0 ). I was about to buy another power supply but now I’m not sure if that the problem. A friend will give me he’s xbox and I’m thinking of trying his power supply on my xbox. But could that damage it?
You may have a bad power supply but it sounds like you have a short on your mainboard. You should be fine to try another supply of the exact same type in your console. If you have a short, the new supply will just shut down like your current power supply.
@@ToltecMerc Thanks man, I got my friends xbox but it was disconnected for about a yeah. It doesnt turn on and sound like a bird when connected. I guess i’ll order a new power supply to check both out. Is 30 dollars a good price for one?
