DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me. Swapping to the Champion EC251-6 Aluminum radiator.
Thanks for the video! Have a 67, 6cyl, added a Vintage Air. Stock radiator couldn’t handle it when it hit 85. Ended up with the Champion EC339 radiator. Had to use the Spal 16-0400 low profile fan with the mounting brackets. Didn’t have enough room between the fan and pulley to us their fan shroud. With 95 to 100 plus days, it runs at 180, in traffic, it’ll hit 200, but cools back down to 180, once you get moving again. Again, thanks for sharing!
I dream of driving my '65 Mustang 200 up the I-5 Grapevine during a summer day. No AC, just opened windows. Just like my parents did in the 60's, 70's in these cars. Haha!
Thank you for this. You won’t believe this some years ago I found a specialty FOUR core copper radiator from CJ Pony for my inline 6 (same as yours) thinking this would solve my heating problems after I put the 2 barrel Weber on. I replaced the old crappy 2 row copper that came with it thinking this would solve my problems along with a higher flow water pump replacement. Nope. In the summer at stop and go traffic here in DC I was creeping up to 205-210 and getting worried all of the time. I was using the engine fan but now realize I had the wrong size spacer not keeping the fan close enough to the fins. Anyway, you have convinced me to get the 2 row champion with the spal 1516 fan combination. The other issue I am worried about is that eventually I would like to add AC (i.e. classic auto air) because the DC area is just miserable in the summer…So by installing the condenser unit in front of the 2 row champion radiator do you believe this would significantly change the static pressure characteristic to the extent that the 2 row champion (like yours) could still handle the demand? Based on what you’ve shared here it seems perhaps closely examining the specifications on a different model fan may indicate another model may help to decrease the delta.
I have been told by others using the same setup as me with AC that it works just fine, no overheating. AC condensers are usually a lot less restrictive.
Sir you mentioned in the video but I couldn’t quite it make it out the name of the company that your purchased the low profile bolt heads due to the tight fit of the Spal fan. I have gone ahead and purchased all the key parts for this project(it’s my birthday - so it’s time lol) I looked and tried variations of the name I thought heard to no avail apologies… would you be able to tell me once more where you got the bolts? Thanks again for this outstanding video,
I have the motor out of the car right now otherwise I would. I'm doing a 2V conversion with a Sniper 2300, and a small cam. I drove it up to Santa Clarita a few times, with no problem in traffic or otherwise. Probably didn't have enough balls before to even make it up the grapevine LOL.
Have the Champion and Spal 1516 fan but still not enough clearance to pulley and bolts. Due to no stock anywhere, had to get the Champion 251 with different size in and out hose fittings but the company said it's the same radiator otherwise and can use adapting fittings for hoses. Any ideas on fitment?
Is ur oem temperature sending unit connected to the water outlet instead of the original back of the e head ? Why? Trying to run a mechanical temp gauge on my 67 but I was told to run it on the water outlet and keep my oem sending unit connected on the back of the head on its original connection ..
Yes, I moved my OEM temp sender to the water outlet because I have EFI and the temp sender for the EFI needs to be in the head. Since the EFI tells me temp, I don’t really care that the OEM gauge doesn’t read until the thermostat opens. You can put it in the water outlet, it just won’t read until the thermostat opens.
@@azteca8151 I run a Holley Sniper 2300 EFI. There are a few options for EFI. The Sniper 1100 is the bolt on direct replacement for the standard single barrel carb, but it’s back ordered big time.
That original 3 core radiator shoulda been enough to keep ur engine cool I think ur timing and fuel delivery is ur problem even tho that new aluminum radiator is keeping ur engine cool now its prob just covering ur underlying problem of running lean or timing is off.
The original radiator was not a 3 core, it was 2. Timing and fuel delivery was all looked at at the time. Several people on the VM6F have had the same issue since this video was made and have gone to the champion radiator and all have the same positive result with this setup.
What is the black radiator and how much is it because I have two barrel under the hood and is it worth it just get in the championship just getting the stock radiator if not can you just give me a link to which one you think is better?
The black radiator is copper. You’re better off with aluminum. The Champion is a model 251-6, but I think they are still back ordered. Good luck finding one.
