Please enjoy this walkthrough on servicing the 6HP26 gearbox (ZF) found in various Ford models, it also includes a small modification to the sump gasket
Only critique is the ZF 6HP26 MUST BE filled at a specific temperature range otherwise it'll result in an incorrect oil fill level. Failure to do so can result in all sorts of headaches. The trans fluid temperature must between 30° - 35° before fluid level checking can begin, with the final level check set at 40° ideally. Allowing the fluid temp to exceed 50° will result in you having to allow the fluid to cool down to 30° & repeat the level check, without exceeding the temperature based fluid level setting. Good work otherwise minus that oversight !
it reaches 30 in a minute or less, so probably not a huge issue, especially in Australia. I chucked forscan on my 2014 sz and the atf temp was 30 (cold start) when i loaded the graph up after just starting it. Spring weather though, so if in a cold climate i'd say you'd need to adhere to the temp checking.
Fair point. Having said that, it's 31°C outside right now, so if anything have a big shop fan blowing over the tranny and keep the fluid in the fridge. Running through each gear for a minute or 2 will get too hot. These are German gearboxes - for German weather.
@@RealAutoSolutions Prices vary wildly, Repco was like $350, but Sparesbox (owned by GPC, who also owns Repco) had it as low as $120. Not that I need it - I got the RTK179 kit for like $25 since my pan is metal.
@@KaldekBoch cool man, yeah GPC are massive, they also own NAPA This is half the issue with the industry, you can shop around different places for different prices owned by the same company and it makes mechanics look dodgy, instead there should be a fixed price for retail and different rates for the trade depending on amount spent
Good video, was certainly a lot easier with the older gearboxes that you could fill from the top via the dipstick. What can one expect to pay for an auto trans service on a 2013 FG MK2 ZF gearbox these days out of interest.
@@RealAutoSolutions just something for next time, it would have been good to show the pan straight off the transmission to identify any metal filings or clutch pack material. Maybe you didn't have any in this one though after 60,000kms which is pretty good. Also do you disconnect the cooler lines at all normally. Seems like there would have still been old oil in those and the converter. I've seen some sort of flushing machine that claims to remove all the old transmission fluid. When you're servicing how do you ensure you get rid of all the old fluid?
@@zucan100 There will always be fluid in the torque converter so at best it is only an 80% fluid change but it is still a heap of new fluid which will dilute the old stuff. On my son's car which had quite old brown fluid, I drained and refilled it and worked it through the gears for 5 minutes and then drained that before taking the pan off and changing the filter & cleaning it etc. It is beautiful clean looking on the dipstick now. Many experts don't recommend flushing as it dislodges dirt into places you don't want it like valves etc. If you change the fluid regularly, there will always be some level of old fluid unless you disassemble the trans but in practical terms it really doesn't matter. I have done my Kia Sportage and my Holden/Chevy Cruze before the recommended intervals as I am not a fan of "lifetime fluid" service intervals. The Kia has a heavy duty use mileage of 140, 000 kilometres but the fluid was pretty dirty looking and opaque at 140k and 10 years. I got my Cruze done at 90,000 kilometres as it was herky and jerky ( hung on to gears and then jerked into gear) even though the trans service interval was 150,000k. Just done it again and it is almost like a Rolls Royce shifting. Factory service intervals are way too long in my opinion even with synthetic fluids. Helps if you can do it yourself as then it is only the cost of the fluid mainly vs $300 for someone to do it.
Done this on a couple of FG Falcons. My question should be to Ford. Why do they put the exhaust oxygen sensor directly opposite the transmission fill plug? The oxygen sensor has to be removed first, to make enough room to get the tool on the fill plug: usually a 8mm Allen socket and breaker bar. Those fill plugs are tight, if they have not been removed before. And the oxygen sensor is usually difficult to remove, as well. Once those 2 items are loose, the rest is easy.
My zf 6 in my xr8 was diagnosed as stuffed 2 n half years ago and still as long as i warm up car till themostat opens and at running temperature at which time i simply go through all auto gear selections then runs great till cold again however if i start cold and try to drive it slips only made that mistake twice and just got it running again want be a third as i dont have 4 g to replace or fix keep on kracking on .
Hey mate, thanks for the vid top notch 👍quick question, after running the car and shifting through the gears, do I wait until it is just dripping before putting the fill bolt back in? or is it okay to put it on with similar flow as per the end of this vid?
Hey man, a small run out would be what I reccomend, rather than a drip out, this would be the difference of only a few hundred ML, when filling around 6.0L both would be acceptable
Hi mate wonderful video thank for your time 💪, Just wanna as u my 09 falcon green top I replaced all front rear brake pads after that I went to drive and after 5 minutes my ABS light come off and a orange triangle and screen top a tiny triangle with number 1 ? What happened, just let us know I never touch the ABS speed sensors at all ? Any ideas , ?? Many thanks Matt
i was told after you do that process you wait for the transmission to cool open the bung with the engine off and top up again and it can take up to a litre
Old mate knows his stuff. It is when the engine is running and all the oil passages, torque coverter are full of oil at running temp. That is the only corect level. Pretty common with a lot of transmissions with a level plug.
Great video. thanks for taking the time to put it together. However, I am just wondering how to drain and fill the torque converter so ALL the old transmission oil is replaced as my RWD SZ diesel has travelled 170,000kms and I don't believe there has been any prior servicing of transmission ! Any videos, links or tips on this please ?
Thanks for commenting mate! A bit hard on the territory with the heat exchanger set up, if you were to remove that and run an external transmission cooler you could remove the feed line to the cooler and pump it in at the same time. The only other thing I can suggest is, fill the transmission, run it for a few minutes, then do the job again
I had a trans with pretty dirty fluid so I dropped the old oil and filled it up again and ran it through the gears etc and then drained that. A lot simpler than trying to jig up connections for flushing it etc. Not 100% but better than nothing and it would still be 90% or more cleaner than just 1 fluid drop leaving all the old fluid in the torque converter.
Thanks for the walkthrough. It seems very similar service procedure to the BTR 4 speed. I guess the exorbitant cost of servicing is due to the price of the oil? Cheers
Hi mate i have a wee bit of a leak in my zf left side facing front. Any idea what that might be? seems to be a bit above the lower pan, where those two black hoses sit is where the leak exactly is.
Hello! My gearbox oil has been changed with some pump that sucks the old oil and puts in new one, since then I started having issues, the machine removed 9.5L and when trying to fill the transmission it does not get on level at 9.5L of oil, I have now inside of the gearbox 11.5/12 litres of oil and it still not leaking, how is this possible? Should ai continue filling until it leaks and makes the level ? What should I do, please help
Not sure how much I trust the flushing machines. If you do not have fluid leaking out of the check point like in this video, you need to continue filling with more oil
Hi, think I remember hearing or reading that the pan will only hold a fraction of the fluid thats in the transmission and that I’d have to flush it through to get everything out. But now I’ve seen 2 videos on this job where it’s not required. The way you did it does it get it pretty much all out? If so I might as well do it myself. Thanks!
That's correct, the torque converter stores litres of oil too, depending on the condition of the oil it may need flushing If your oil is really black then I would be flushing it, if it's relatively clear still, a service like in this video would be sufficient
@@RealAutoSolutions ahhh ok. Well first time at 185K hahaha. Hopefully it’ll be fine. Unless you recommend to just flush it after so long. Thanks for the reply though, really appreciate it!
Hey mate just need some advice. I checked Ryco filter they are about $40-50 with gasket Ryco rtk179 Whereas ford genuine filter and gas kit cost around $400 plus with gas kit. I’m confuse about Ryco should I use it or not as we all use Ryco oil and Air-filter and they work pretty well. Just wanted to know is it safe to use Ryco transmission filter or not. ?? As I check with ford they said no need to Change fluid or filter which make me super confused I owned fg 2014 g6e with 170k on it
Apologies for getting back to you so late I haven't used a Ryco one in the past, but I have priced them up & if you can find a quality supplier of trans parts you can buy the genuine stuff for essentially the same cost! So I would recommend looking around first before pulling the trigger on the Ryco kit As for the ford dealer, I would not listen to what they say, they are not life time oil & you will definitely notice a difference after the service
I’ve used the RYCO filter a couple of times or a TransGold one, no problems. I’ve always used generic fluid, Gulf Western - get 20 litres for under $200 direct from GW or order it through SuperCheap. Valvoline Max Life from Bunnings or Repco is also fine.
If we get one in & the customer wants to go ahead we definitely can do 😁 Or next time my old man's car comes in I will do an over view of the job we did ages ago
Because I have a territory with the 6hp21 and I was wanting to tow with it but now that I know what’s in it it’s made me nervous. Do you think I could swop it out for the 6hp26?
Hi guys, I've been having a lot of trouble finding out the Diff gear ratio of a Ford Territory TS-4.0-Petrol-AWD 4Speed NON TURBO, made in JAN 2005. Does any one knows the diff ratio for this model?? Need to change the Front Diff - Gearbox - and TansferCase.... Thanks in advance...
Youre trying to change the whole housings? You could mark on the tail shaft and on the wheel then rotate the tailshaft to get one full wheel rotation to give you an estimate
The steel pan job is around 45 minutes, the plastic pan is a bit quicker as no cleaning is required (provided you have a hoist and all the tooling already set up like the oil pump i have)
@@RealAutoSolutions cheers for that.. a mobile mechanic wants to charge me $150 for labour only here in Sydney to change the oil, which I think is reasonable.
@@RealAutoSolutions for me it would be a total of $465 including labour which includes 6 litres of genuine ZF lifeguard 6, the same gasket as the metal one you used, but a ryco filter instead of the genuine ford.
Yep. 40 deg C and dripping out of the fill port after running the transmission through P-N-D-R-D1-D2 holding each position for 5 secs. Doing this a few times will ensure the fluid is flushed through the valve body and oil galleries. If the temp goes above 40 deg C stop and let it cool down and then continue again.
Great video but.....when making a video like this I imagine that you would aim for quality which leads to more views etc, etc. It looks like you videoed this with a phone held in your hand, thus the jerky motion and the difficulty in removing the filter, obviously one handed. To this end, when making a like video, no matter if using a phone, video camera or whatever, invest in a tripod or some other means of holding your device. You will get a much better quality video and they are not expensive. Personally I find it annoying that in an otherwise great video the quality suffers for the want of the proper quipment. Cheer!
@@RealAutoSolutions 1st mistake that u did was the filling oil bolt .. , never drain oil without removing filling oil bolt., always remove filling bolt before removing drain bolt .. 2/ mistake car should be always on level surface when filling back in oil .. 3/ after 1st stage of filling in the oil the car should be running for about 15 minutes and monitor the temperature 🌡 .. and use a thermometer ONLY when car gets around 35c to 45c then u fill in the 2nd stage. 4/ good points . U used good oil zf6, and use the gear change wile topping up on stage 2 .. only mistake there u should leave the car on for longer / use thermometer , and top up the rest when oil gets around 35c/45c .
I have to disagree with a couple points here. Undoing the filler plug on this particular transmission service, makes no change when draining the oil as we're dropping the whole pan. Even on a side pan deal you could take the filler plug out but still not a massive issue, all the oil will still drain out (not the converter) The second point, the car is level on the hoist. That is checked when taking it up in the first place. The third point, yes around 35c is the correct temp to set the level, In Australia it's around that temp often in summer, this video was filmed on a 30c day so the oil is already very close to that temp, so not a massive change here either.
@@RealAutoSolutions yes I maybe correct about when raising the car , ur car raising system should be level .. 2/ no u doing it wrong u MUST unloosen the filling oil bolt before drain the oil . Reason THAT u MUST do it is because in case u drain oil frist and the filling pug is damaged / can’t unlosen.. u will be stuck with a car with no gearbox oil.. good luck getting the car out with a empty gearbox oil .. 3/ wrong again about filling the 2nd stage , u can just presume that u live in a hot country that ur gearbox oil it’s 30c/ 40c just by looking at the bottle .. The car need to be running , with engine on and for about 10mints and I need to use a thermometer to do the heat reading . If u dont do this it’s a fail, and most likely the gearbox with brake in future., also and its a cowboys job as a mechanic by just eyeballing because u live in a hot country makes no sense .
@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 just be quiet clown. loosening the fill bolt first is a suggestion or good practice. what are the chances of a damaged fill plug? and how does it change anything? it'll have to be removed somehow, who cares when that occurs? it's in a mechanics workshop not in someones home garage 🙄🙄 and regards to the temperature, the 6hp26 needs a fill temp between 30 and 50, optimum is 40, on a day with ambient temps of 30'C the transmission will reach 30-40'C very rapidly especially as the 6hp26 on the australian fords use a heat exchanger, after 10 minutes its gonna be too hot. so shut up and stop making yourself look like a clown.