Quick demonstration to show how to remove and install pads so quickly. Most videos I have seen do not show clear details of how the pads are locked in, so I thought I would try one myself!
Mate there's rubber shims which you can put on the outer pad surface to stop the pig squealing noise . Also Bendix brake pads are a lot better now, like the ultimate+ for the fronts, but use the 4x4 / SUV rear pads which will stop the noises as well when you need to replace the pads, not sure if are tracking the car ,then maybe stick with the brembo ds pads and put the rubber shims on them, which will help. My VF Redline has the same size calipers and it did have the brembo ds pads in them and got the rubber shims put on the rear, no noises at all?
Thanks for the feedback! I am interested in the rubber shims (will they fit with new pads?) if you have a part number? To be honest I know the source of my problem is glazed rotors from a track day. Maybe I hadn't properly bedded the pads beforehand as the car didn't have a lot of miles and I tend not to be hard on the brakes under normal driving conditions. I originally planned to get a slight skim taken off, but the rotors were too big for the brake lathe LOL!
@@markgrovenor389Also the reason why the brakes squeal is because of vibration all cars brakes do it, its why dogs hear you coming when your pulling up to your driveway, the harmonics of the pad v's the disc ,but putting the rubber shims on the Brembo pad will help 100%, you might need to put more than 1 layer but it does help for sure, again it depends on the brand of pads, if its a everyday driver and not track use, then i would use the rubber shims, if tracking the car it wont matter due to how much heat and brake force is applied when tracking the car, but as soon as you drive it as a everyday driver, the fronts will squeak like crazy ,so rubber shims will help with vibration harmonics cheers 🦘🦘✌✌👍👍
No there was no need as the brake pads were not replaced. There was enough space in the reservoir to allow the pads to be pushed back slightly to make it easy an assembly. If you were to be replacing the pads with a new set, I would recommend cracking the bleeder valve and removing some fluid so that the brake pistons can be pushed back without overflowing the reservoir!
Whilst a good idea it is not mandatory. You may have just had them bled recently and it would then be a waste of time and money. Aim to bleed the system every two years at least, as the fluid attracts water and will eventually cause problems for several reasons if left.
Hi there, yes you might need to push the cylinders back in if you are replacing worn, thin pads with new thicker ones. Using a C (or G?) clamp is a common method to get the cylinders back in although you may need to unbolt the caliper from the rotor to make room. Alternatively, leave the old inner pad in place and use a screwdriver, chisel or similar to gently pry it back away from the rotor, which will push the cylinders back. Make sure your fluid doesn't overflow from the master cylinder when you do this! I hope that helps!🙂
No it is not necessary because you don't need to open the system but it is good practice to flush the system every year, particularly if you do the occasional track day!
@@c4sare4kiddos I am referring to the brake fluid system. From the reservoir in the engine bay, through to each caliper. As the fluid (throughout this system) is not opened or interfered with, it officially isn't impacted.
Sorry no Brayam, see my earlier response with the OEM part number GM 23441307 although you should be able to order using your VIN number or look up the year, make, model.
