For me it was a corroded diode in the fuse panel under the hood, number 37. Only part of the diode had continuity, which was why I missed it and why it checked good without actually pulling it out. Try pulling it out and then cleaning off corrosion off all of the diode metal surface. All fuses checked out, and plugs tight. Started right up. Hope this helps someone.
I have this exact problem I have a 1999 F-power stroke 7.3 and the trunk worked fine I parked it for about a week and went to start it and the light on my dash did not come on! I thought it was the relay but after watching this I am sure that is my problem! This video is a true gift to me Thank you so much! I love RU-vid there isn't anything I can't fix because of videos like this! Have a great week! Just subbed Saved me lots of time!
Nice tool but I just use my channel locks opened wide, never had an issue, had that same fuse go out on mine at 400K miles, I was driving 1st time it ever left me on the side of the road. Thanks for taking the time to make this video👍
Thank you so much for your Video. you saved me a tow truck and a ford gouging. and thank you Doug for the tool you gave him, I will make one too. Great video of show and tell. could not have been any better . right to the point NO BS added .Mine is a 99 7.3. mine acted up from just putting a new filter in . once you told me about the fuse I put the new filter in 3 times and blew 3 fuses. put the old filter back in and ordered a new filter from some one else. so far all I had to do was change fuses. but now I know what to do when the element goes. Thank you so much for your free info. you made it easy to find the right fuse rather quickly. and I am going on a 2000 mile trip next week and didn't want any repair issues. I beleive in the old truck fix too, very good point. Thank you Chris for your teaching on this video I am #370 thumbs up
Thanks for this video this also saved me a lot of time and money. Easy fix and I was thinking the worst. The only issue was a bad fuel bowl heat and I never new it existed.
Bro, thank you so much for making this video - My 99 had the same issue. I replaced my Glow Plug solenoid relay 1st , no fix - then changed out my oil temp sensor, no fix. I was at a lost then found your video - The fuse was blown - replaced it and now it’s fixed.
I have a 1999 F-350 and had the same problem today. I am so glad I found your video. I found the 30 amp fuse blown and was looking up what was connected to that fuse. Found your video which was the help I needed. I always try to do my own repairs. I like to know there completed right. Thanks again and you can bet I will continue to watch your channel.
Thank you very much for the video. I had just replaced the fuel filter for the first time after purchasing a 99 F350. All the sudden that night I started it and it shut off abruptly. Your video helped tremendously. I did exactly what you said and I am back on the road. Thank you again!
Just a note to everybody, you can pull the white connector plug off that is located just to the left of the bowl which is for the heater and then replace the fuse to get yourself running in a jam if you don't have time to replace the element. That heater is really design for super cold temps and if you are not located in Alaska or someplace crazy cold you can probably run without the element
That fuse also feeds the PCM. I just bought my 3rd E99 for my HS business...that wire was removed by the resident rat. On my long list of repairs to do after ball joints, rotors, calipers, front bearing assemblies. And install my flatbed of course. Enjoyed your video!
I use a pair of pliers and a extention to remove the fuel bowl filter cap, just flip the pliers over and everyone has a set of pliers but not a friend that makes and sends free tools :)
Glad the tool worked for you didn’t think you would need it that soon though! Nice informative video on that repair, my 2000 7.3 has 180k I’m sure I will be replacing mine soon.
Chris this video has truly been help to me , I have a 99 7.3 I been buying boxes of fuses at a time (30)amp for at least 2 years. Put the truck in the shop $1600 later still doing the same thing but with the video you shared I’m back on the road again.... Thanks Chris
Glad your back running. The 7.3s are pretty simple. Hardly anything goes wrong with them. If you ever have an oil leak check the top of the engine first in the valley. Seems to be where 99% of the leaks occur.
I see that you can just unplug that heater on the outside of the filter housing if you are in a jam. Probably don't need the fuel heater at all if you are only in warm climates. But it can at least get the fuse to stop popping until you can get a new heater installed
Thank you much, watched your video, had the same problem parked a couple of days ago and went to start this am no wait to start light. Saved me a bunch of time. Replaced the element and rock and roll!
Thanks for the informative and very well explanatory good video. I too have a 7.3L and the glow plug light doesn't come on but I also don't have the crank kicking in. I bypass the starter with a push button cranks no start have you ever had a situation like mine? Any help is appreciated.
Check your number 19 fuse on a 2000 Ford excursion diesel just literally happened to me and my brother-in-law told me to check that fuse after looking everywhere on the vehicle and that fuse is blown out said it he had that experience on other 7.3 diesels.
How does the FBH tie in with glo plug and a no start condition. I am fighting this on an 02.GPR had no power to it's always hot lead.If use jumper cable and hook to one batt and the put positive on the GP relay, rh side where power goes to inj harnesses. Now glow plugs work and after 1-2 tries, she starts. New tank fuel pickup assy. new Bosch fuel pump, Motorcraft IPR, new icp, new ecm, it burnt out 8 weeks ago, IDM check and PHP hydra chip also checked. Heading to shop tomorrow IF we can get her started. I do have glow plug light that goes out after a few seconds, as usual since new. Wha is up here?
depends on the year..a 2000. the wait to start being out is..glowplug relay shorted,intake heater shorted..which blows the big 30amp fuse under the hood by the air cleaner housing..remember depends on the year.
My 7.3 has been running great but this morning pulling around the yard to hook up my trailer the truck quit. It cranked back up so I hooked trailer and got down the road quarter mile and it quit again so I turned around went back home. I drained fuel bowl drain it and it started backup. I let it idle for about 5 minutes and went to press fuel pedal and it quit and never would start back. I noticed my wait to start light would come on and I checked fuse and the 30amp was blown. So I guess I’m gonna replace what you just done. Thanks for the video
You can test it by unplugging the wire on the outside of the fuel bowl to the heater. If the truck stays running then the fuel bowl heater is the issue. Hope this helps
That fuse in this video is the fuel pump mounted on the frame. If you feel the fuel warmer is at fault, then just un plug it. Not likely as it is controlled by the PCM when temp drops really low.
@@stevecarlisle3323 100% correct. I could have unhooked the wire at the back of the fuel bowl and changed the fuse and it would have ran. I wanted to put that note in the video and forgot to.
When my Fuse 30 blew because of the heater, the THEFT light flashed fast also which left me to think my key wasn't detected or there was something wrong with the Theft system. I did narrow it down to the fuel heater only after I found out #30 was blown. I just disconnected the heater outside the bowl at the connection there. Replaced the fuse and it started right up.
So I’m having the same issue no wts light no start but I have an aftermarket fuel pump on a 96 7.3 I’ve checked everything new gpc all fuses are good none loose pcm is getting power to where it should I’m stumped no lose wires or anything I know I have a bad glow plug and one weaker then the rest but that shouldn’t be the issue but I’m replacing them all and new valve gasket soon I don’t know what else to do should I check my heater even tho it’s ran off an aftermarket fuel system?
I have a 99 it did start but while I was on side it shut down for no reason yes I have the same problem with #30 fuse however I don't think that heater alone will stop it from firing . I'm not Shure but I'm thinking it may be tied into the electric fuel pump or injector relay which I'll shut the fuel system down as well
So to update on the thought of the fuel heater and to eliminate possibilities I simply unplugged the fuel cup at the base where the heater gets power from put in a new fuse and it fired right up. Now I know it was the heater and not something else
Im not getting fuel to my bowl and ready to pull my hair out OS it the fuel pump PR screens in the tanks its a 1996 first generation 7.3 whr shpuld I start.
Sorry buddy I just saw your comment. If you unplug the wire going to the heater and replace the fuse and the truck starts then you have a bad fuel bowl heater
@@chrisward405 hey man I got time today after work to install the bowl heater it took me 15 minutes to install and put another fuse and it works great thanks a lot man
