Best one-handed repair I've ever seen! Can I get info on that diagnosis app you were using? Seems like I need that. Also, after replacing injectors / glow plugs / fuel filter / oil / manifold gaskets (new 1 piece upgrade), I'm getting cranking and fumble but no start. Error code p12093 (high side open bank 1) it ran great for 1 mile and then fumbled and nearly stalled, had to limp it home. Measuring 2.6 ohms to each Motorcraft injector at the 42-pin harness connector, and I've triple checked the injector and manifold gasket connections and they're solidly connected. My hunch is my IDM is cooked?
Another place to check on a no start is the HPOP oil reservoir that can drain all oil from a bad check valve. No oil to the injectors and you will have a no start. After an hour of interstate driving I stopped to get fuel and after filling up had a no start. Had to get towed. Days later I was given a suggestion to check the reservoir which was empty, filled it with a quart of oil and it started.
@@whocares5188 I should have mentioned the recommended procedure is to use a vacuum pump to suck out all the black nasty oil first then add one quart of regular oil. No need to fill it up to the threads. It may be that your losing oil from your HPOP and its draining your reservoir so your injectors wont get the oil they need to function. The best of luck to you.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! I replaced the cam position sensor and pigtail but still no start. Found your video disconnected the ipc and it just fired right up. Running like a champ with the much needed cam sensor. Bless you.
Just wanted to mention. If you put any sensors on your 7.3 make sure you get OEM Ford parts. I learned that the hard way. I put an icp sensor on my truck from the local parts store and it didn't work right immediately out of the box. Same with the CPS
I used 3 oem crank sensors, bought an aftermarket one and no issues since ( 140,000 miles ago) i keep one in the glove box. Just in case. Have helped a couple folks stranded for the same reason. Evidently there was a bad run on them...
I learned the hard way also especially with lift pumps. Aftermarket ones lasted from 1 month to 5 months. Now I got everything from International and so far so good.
I have a 7.3 powerstroke I got from my uncle right before he passed away. I know it’s probably time to let it go but I can’t make myself do it. I have replaced the CPS and the ICP and went for a test drive today and it lost completely power running 65 mph. It’s done this three times and left me stranded. The other two times I let it sit for an hour and it cranked right up and I made it home. But today I couldn’t get it to restart. I don’t have all the tools or the money at the moment to pay a professional to figure it out for me. Would a bad IPR make it shut off after running for 5-10 minutes then no start for an hour. Then after sitting start back up? I’m so close to giving up. Idk what to do.
Follow up to previous comment: You called the item you replaced the ICP, when in fact when looking up a replacement for my truck the IPR is what you replaced in this video. You might mention that and clarify for us week end wrenches out here please. Thanks.
Hey great video there. Appreciate your knowledge and skills. Thankfully I haven't experienced that issued yet, but my 73 does idle a little rough like yours and I've been trying to figure that one out. Now I noticed you had mentioned towards the end something about air being in the injectors and letting it bleed out. I was wondering if you can make a video to get more into that part of the deal? I've noticed my idle would smooth out after a while of warming up in the past, but that hasn't been the case lately and especially after I did an oil change and that's why I'm very interested to understand how that works. I'd greatly appreciate it if you can explain that a bit as I'm still learning about this wonderful motor. Much appreciate it and thank you for your time.
What should the exhaust back pressure on a 7.3 be? Just curious cuz I saw what yours was that but I'm going down the road mine's at like 40 PSI. Not sure if that's good or bad LOL
Handy pointer, on the pass side fender there is a cable, single wire with a weird bullet connector in the middle, that's the starter trigger wire, you can disconnect it and it'll just reach the bolt on the pos battery cable and you can crank the engine without the key. Certain you've mentioned that before, gonna watch this one, have a 99 7.3. Nifty tool for IPR but could you weld a 3.4 nut on one side to let you bite it with a combination wrench, just thinking out loud.
One of the best videos and most informative i have watched. ive watched several and this is the only one that told me that oil would run out and down the back. i thought i would be laying in the snow bank. i have the icp and ipr on order. any more information on the app you use would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Awh yes the Candy Store. It use to be on the edge of PHX, it didn't move the city did. In the 80s I use to give a couple of dancers a ride to work. I had a mobile fleet repair biz and one of my customers was a landscape company across the street from it. Those girls would now be in their 50/60s. 😀
Hey there I have the same no start problem and when I revved the engine oil came out of the ICP valve.. what would be the next step after that? Would I have to check the HPOP now?
So currently on the side of the road from this very same problem. I have question, I saw no signs except loss of power a couple minutes down the road before the shut off. And my boost gauge showed zero the whole time. So my question is, is having the turbo unresponsive part of this issue? Or am I looking at a whole different problem in itself. I’m new to the diesel game, 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 powerstroke.
What is the device you plugged into your obd port? It sounded like you said "e.l.m. device?? Any info about that device would be helpful so I can buy one because I own a 2000 f250 powerstroke that has 209,000 mi and I know right now I'm having an issue where it cuts out within 10 seconds of first starting it. So I'm trying to diagnose that but have no diagnostic tools such as this device you plugged into your OBD port.
Lots of good info here but kinda hard to follow with all the self generated distractions. Like, in the middle of repair and diagnosis, you introduce your friend and kids and then how to make a tool to facilitate easier repair. Talk through the prob. then do the how to make the tool,. Intro kids and friend at one end or the other of the video, then and talk about side issues like chugging idle, and HPOP oil leak etc…it will be much easier to follow what you are doing. Much appreciate all your knowledge.. .
Well explanlation. Iam having a bit of a strugle with my 7.3 diesel without powerstroke. Seems to have the same problem as yours but i think it works different on the 1993. Appriciate the help.
Awesome! I changed the IPR and ICP and the truck started like nothing happened, thanks a lot! My truck had been parked for 4 years when I bought it, I had to replace the fuel injector cups because it was mixing fuel and water (after 1 week running) and also replaced all o-ring injectors, after 3 o 4 weeks driving it shut off while driving and parked again for about 8 months until I found your video. Now it runs like monster.
A shared tidbit (didn't even watch this) but I figure some viewers might be searching for solutions to 'non start' problems, although this one seems rather rare. In 2018, I bought a low mileage 2003 F250 w/ 7.3 mainly because I got a good deal and did have a legit use - never owned a diesel before but every knowledge acquaintance raved about my purchase. Right out of the gate it had the following issue. After driving it any distance, short or long, the truck would fail to start after a brief stop such as running into a store. After sitting for 30 to 60 minutes, it would start right up and run great. This problem had the seller (non mechanic, but extremely knowledgable) and a local diesel mechanic (specializing in small diesels of this class and an owner of the same) both scratching their heads. The seller suggested not making brief stops, or leaving it running (you make the call as to how useful that advice is??). The mechanic wanted to perform a series of various diagnostic teardowns probably $500 just to get started on that road. My niece who is an avid gear head and works on diesels in the Army Reserve had no suggestions. ANY GUESSES ON THE SOLUTION FROM YOU EXPERIENCED DIESEL HEADS? Another acquaintance (non mechanic) who is a internet bulldog of all sorts of knowledge (yes, there is good info out here, occasionally) convinced me (provided links to various web posts) that I should put new batteries. I was skeptical as the batteries had already been bench tested 'good' at local parts store. ALSO, the starter always cranked strong, just wouldn't light up and plug in diagnostic lap top software showed no out of spec electric parameters. I bought new batteries and BINGO - problem solved. No where did I read of this problem specifically and, of course, not a directly suggested solution. I hope this finds its way to at least one person who has this problem.
I thought my icp was bad rough idle sometimes not all the time so I changed it, thinking irp becouse it shuts off every now and then for some reason I think now my boost gets to high and it decreases fuel pressure and stalls motor got a reader and gave me a 1249 &1211 code thinking a boost fooler. I'm not you but I'm trying to fix my beloved Nelly bell 99 f250 7.3 I really like your videos and hope to see more!
Your selecer switch... chip I need to know how and what to do to put in I don't know nothing about them but I have one on my truck trying to figure out how it works and So fourth and thank you
Hey steve i been watching your videos for a while. I was wondering how did you use your tablet i need a scanner but they are expensive. Is using the tablet cheaper? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Do i get the odb 2 adapter and download the app?
Should oil come shooting out of the hole for the Icp or just kind of ooze out? My truck died suddenly now it won’t fire, it has a new icr on it but new doesn’t always mean good.
@@Realofficialdee never did. I ended up replacing icp and cps with oem Ford and sold the truck. Hopefully it was fixed but I didn’t find out. It started consistently for 10-15 times after replacing the sensors.
Nice video, but one AR correction. The slot cut through the threads running to the hole is to relieve pressure on the back side of the pintle. Without it, oil will leak past the pintle to the back side, build up and hydrolock it so the pintle won't move.
Any idea if I’m getting a little bit of oil flowing out? It doesn’t seem to be spraying at 6-700 psi while cranking. I just replaced the icp and have a reman hpop so I don’t think it’s that. I wonder if it’s still the ipr
I would say a cranking and you have your IPR out, and you have a gauge hooked up and you're reading manual pressure directly from your cylinder heads.... I would think that whatever is generating that hi injection oil pressure is the culprit.... there's a high injection oil pressure pump somewhere you have to look for it and see what it's called.
That`s a good informative video, My 7.3 just cuts off and dies then a in few minutes it will start up and die in 5 to 10 seconds. When it`s cold it runs till about when the t/stat opens, that tells me it`s heat related and coils are sensitive to heat. I bought it brand new in 1997 and only put glow plugs in it. I think i have the same problem as you had, Tach works while cranking , wont start with ICM unplugged. Yep I think you helped me a TON! Thanks
tured out to be the wires were arcing in the ipr solenoid plug and being the ipr is controlled (straight wired )to the ecm it was hurt too by the shorted wires@@N.m.M2024
I’m having a similar issue, no wts and no tach on a 97 f-250 7.3. I am stumped. I have replaced the PCM with a new flashed one, CPS, fuses and all the above. I am getting oil out the ICP hole. Do you think it could still be the IPR? That’s the last thing on my list before I fork out some money to take it to the shop.
@@lnsuvasquez2466 check fuse #22 in the underhood fuse box( power distribution block) if that fuse is good probe the red wire on the pcm and see if you get 12v.
I'm having an issue with my 2003 7.3 blowing the # 22 fuse and I just can't find a solution. I heard people talking about the fuel heater inside the fuel reservoir so I did disconnect that but still blowing the # 22 . In the morning cranks and start fine but when the engine gets to a normal working temperature it shots down and blows the # 22 again . Any help guys ? I sure can use it
I have an early 99, with no wait to start light. Came on longer than usual. Now, it no longer comes on. No fuel pump, I swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, nothing. I checked the pin #101 for glow plug controller output, and there was no power. It does have a TS chip in it. Any ideas on what's wrong with this truck?
hello everyone, have a same problem on my 7.3 2000 crank not start I put my scanner and reading IPR 97% and ICP 250 to 300 psi on crank, I unplogged IPR pigtail and just have 10.8 volts, I unplogged ICP and not start my rpm move so I don't think my CPS is bad please any helps thanks, great video...
On my truck when I start it...it dies right away....but if I hold the key it will start twice and stay running... Then sometimes it can be just idling in the yard and it randomly shuts off but it only does that until it hits the white line where it says normal operating temperature after that it doesn't do it anymore it especially dies out when the air conditioner is on before it's reached normal operating temperature what can I do to fix that problem
I have a issue with my 2002 F-250 7.3 It will die on me some times. It like you just turn off the key. It will start up fine right after. It has happen while going down the Interstate at 70 mph or sitting in a parking lot. It happens at any giving time. What could be wrong. I tag this video because I change everything in this video with my truck. and I clean my tank 18 month ago. and new fuel pump 3 years ago. I need your help because This video got my truck back on the road after a year, because no one knew what was wrong but you.
i have a 01with 7.3 it had the delete pedestal but not the turbo so i got the delete ebpv for turbo charger and replace the turbo also when try to start a pool of oil was on the ground...where could it come from
