It never fails, once you start taking one of these engines apart, you find broken parts. They will limp along until you finally notice, and fix it, then they are like a whole new engine again!
These trucks are still worth putting money into them to fix them. Yea it's gonna cost you a little but once everything is fixed you will have many trouble free years and miles. I can't think of any other vehicle that is worth putting money into but these trucks.
Glad to see Bill and Mikey working on an "old" 7.3. A little bit of maintenance and this man's truck is good for another 275,000 miles. Not slurring the boys in Flowery Branch that Bill refers the 7.3 crowd to as I'm sure they are competent or he wouldn't send people that way, these guys (and Diesel Tech Ron, RIP) literally wrote the book on what needs attention and how to work on a 7.3. Thank you, Bill, for helping us old school 7.3 guys out. There are still a bunch of us out there who appreciate y'all and all that you have done (and hopefully will continue to do) for the 7.3. Happy Thanksgiving.
I’m glad you came back to the “dark” pre emissions side to show some folks how to get the ol trusty 7.3 running smooth on cold mornings again. Happy thanksgiving my dudes! It’s nice seeing y’all joke around and helping out a friend to get his truck back in action. Take care!
Still like Leroy ... my 2000 250 4x4 4 door 7.3. 305k. I want to find a good mechanic to do a cab off and do all new injectors hoses turbo and sensors etc on the motor. It's a good beast with 350 leafs on the back. It's a no muss no fuss truck that owes me nada. Have a blessed Thanksgiving Hoss and Crew!!
@@JesseCoxVideo Same here...70 deg. I have to keep it plugged in every day. Starts up great, drive it then don't need to plug it in until tomorrow. I'm a Newbie at working on my '01 7.3 Exc. Ex bf tried AZ Glow Plug Relays - not right part, didn't fit etc. I need to get one of those circuit testers - new to using those too.
Got my old 96 with 427xxx miles, big injectors and turbo. For over 200k rebuild and replaced both. She’s smokes blue everyday still, 380 comp still. Definitely time for a rebuild, but fires right up in -10 degree weather. And she takes a beating for 205cc of fuel everyday! Delo’s cheap. When she finally blows. I’m getting a 6.7
Bill, not sure where your dislike for the 7.3 originates (I still recall your "Why I hate the 7.3" video) but I'll never sell my 7.3. It is the best, most reliable, easiest to work on diesel engine that Ford ever made. If anything, I'm looking to get another! You couldn't give me a 6.0 or anything newer, no thanks. GO 7.3!
… “that ford ever made” Sorry you can eff off with that comment. Ford diesels are horrible to work on. I’ve owned a diesel shop- for regular diesels of all kinds. Power strokes are ass.
Ha that's dirty compared to mine. Mines only got 128k miles. Alls it's got is a tune intake and exhaust. Slow as hell. Also got me a 400hp 12v. Was my first diesel. Except it's got 390k heavily abused probably 10k between oil changes all it's life. Still like driving it more. Just that it's winter and it's got no ac no more
How bout it! Mine too. But hell, with 308k I ain't complaining. I assume some of the leaks are from ULSD. I did the fuel bowl rebuild a few years back, so that was time & money well spent, but she's still dirty under the hood. But I can go out and fire it up right now, after sitting for 3 weeks, several days below freezing, and with just a couple key cycles, and about a 10 second crank, it'll fire right up. I have a 15 Lariat with the 6.2 now for my DD, but I just can't seem to part with the 7.3L.
Awesome video! I live in South Louisiana, I been watching your videos for years, I have a 2002 F250 7.3 I purchased new off the showroom, it currently has 280k and the only parts that I have had to replace under the hood is a cam sensor, ICP sensor, IRR valve, water pump and alternator, everything else is still OEM, few small leaks but your videos in the past have really helped me keep my old 7.3 running like new! Keep up the good work and happy Thanksgiving!
I bought my 7.3 truck in 2016, after the front end rebuild came glow plugs and the relay. Last fall I replaced the block heater. Glad I did, when the thermometer hit -20, my F-150 wouldn't start, but the 7.3 did.
In most circumstances only Motorcraft parts on my 7.3 but I have found and had pretty good luck with the Dorman valve cover gaskets single plug does not come unplugged from the rear repairs the original problems just have to be careful seen several people pinch the wires bolting it on
Can't go wrong with 7.3 I can work on them all day long oh wait a minute I have five of them here to work on with the same problems if you don't keep up with the maintenance it will bite you in the rear in the winter time
Here is some info about my situation that might help some people. I have a '97 f-250 7.3, California edition (actually has it's benifits). Purchased a relay in Nevada because I was told the relay was bad, and I was also told the glow plug connection under the valve cover most likely separated. Being a California truck, the relay purchases in Nevada kicks off different voltage and throws a "cel" but still functions. During cold weather last year in Nevada, it wouldn't start well in cold weather without the block heater plugged in, or, I had to crank it about 5-10 times and coughed white smoke briefly. Then, when I got back to California, it started fine in warm weather, but when it dropped below 65 or so, it was another hard start issue. Then... one of the batteries started giving me issues and eventually died. I went and purchased 2 new batteries and, low and behold, no more cold start issues. The darn thing fires right up, even on cold mornings. So... sometimes it may just be low voltage to fire these beasts up. 👍
Ha! Interesting...I have Cali '01 Exc with prob cold start below 60 so I keep it plugged in. Ex-bf changed Glow Plug Relay but it got worse and I'm killing batts every 2 years (reason I buy Costco/Interstate batts!) being in desert heat and also can get into zero deg in NV or Mammoth area when I stay there in winter. Looking for batt tender to help batt problem but had bad exp with local dealers and a "Specialist" so I'm trying troubleshooting & repairs myself. Actually fixed a few minor things the Specialist did not properly do. So I need a CA edition GPRelay?
What? I have '01 Exc...does that mean I can't do these procedures to troubleshoot no start? I'm a Newbie and working on my own after a "Specialist" screwed up too many times. :'( I need a knowledgeable 7.3 Exc Buddy to help me in SoCal.
Few weeks ago one morning when it was like 23 degrees here in North Carolina my dad went out to start our 95 F350 Powerstroke and it ran like like crap for the first few seconds then smoothed out. Ran like a 454 big block Chevy with a big loppy cam. Morning before was 2 or 3 degrees warmer and started like a champ. Also on a side note the 94.5 to 97 7.3L are fun when it comes time to replace a fuel pump. That banjo bolt is a royal pain to put back in. Also my uncle that use to work on these trucks at the local Ford dealership also told me that when you pull the glow plugs or even the fuel injectors that you want to spin the engine over and blow any trash out of the cylinder. Not sure if it's true or not and I'm damn not going to try and tell a professional how to do their job.
Great video. Have a wonderful Turkey Day.I have an early 2004 F250 XLT Extcab 6.0.148,000. Lots of things done to my truck but just plain tuning.I'm no hot rodder. I'm in Oregon but would like to visit your shop someday.Thanks and thank care.
Mikey is 100% correct about only using Ford / Motorcraft parts on the 99-03 7.3's! But I love the guys that cheap out and buy aftermarket CPS, ICP's, IPR's, GPR's, and then end up getting mad at the truck and selling it to me... CHEAP! because it won't start or won't run right and they are tired of "dumping money into it!" Love the great vid's!
Some days I have to start my 2002 Excursion when its -40F outside. Now that is cold!!! I also added an under hood battery trickle charger, oil pan heater and I run 0W40 synthetic oil. These 7.3's need all the help they can get when its really cold out.
Thanks for videos about 7.3. I live in Norway, but my 7.3 Excursion starts every time at cold days... Or I can use my Toyota Hilux...its like a cockroach... Never dies🤭
I have had to replace that relay a few times on a work truck. The batteries were also usually going bad. Lower voltage equals higher current that burns the contacts in the relay or plugs.
So you do still work on 7.3. I could have sworn I saw a video saying you don’t work on 7.3 anymore.... I’m not far from Buford and I have 7.3. . And my bro in law lives in Buford and his is a 6.0. 👍
36 degrees?!?!?! SHIT! It's 17 degrees this morning in Minnesota and I took my garbage can down to the street in a t-shirt. And my driveway is an 1/8th mile long.
Thank you for the timely 7.3L video. What is a good source for all of these electric parts that get brittle and crack, especially new wiring harnesses?
OFM!!! You guys do not know what COLD is! 36° is nothing! Im up by Milwaukee and I just started plugging in at night. Last winter was really bad with parts and cold. My 7.3 just flipped 320k. I had 2 out of the 3 common oil leaks go bad with -50 weather. I should be okay for a while now. Starts and runs like a champ! Will never go back to a gasser.
Just had to replace the glow plugs in my 2000 F250. All the plastic on my valve cover gaskets disintegrated and had to be replaced. It was single digits up here where we have real winter though. LOL
I could really use some great advice I know someone can offer here I have the 7.3 2003 excursion very close to 500,000 miles I removed injectors and had rebuilt last year reinstalled with new glow plugs summer warmer months runs like a clock no issues also I suspected no start issue and replaced glow plug relay module a year ago no issues since then now colder months I plug in heater still no issue will start and run fine one day it's not freezing but close 34 degrees I did not plug in heater it started but started to idle rough then died like it was out of fuel to get it going again took heating block for a couple hours and jump start to keep charge on batteries it finally started after several cranks about 20 times I checked code reader and came up with injector pressure sensor so I never replaced before it did have oil in the wire connectors again I did not plug in heater outside temp 40 degrees and it again started rough and died like it was out of fuel and took again heating block and several cranks to finally start once started runs fine fuel pump was also replaced a year ago prior to the injectors thinking pump issue was not is I did check voltage to glow plug relay and it does have voltage to switched side with ignition on wire harness? Or something else?
working on the 7.3s I found that using a vacum brake bleeder to suck the oil out of around the glow plugs helps alot,and no chance of stopping it from cranking,on start up ,good video though
I have 1999 F250 (build date February 1999) that cold starts pretty good, but my 1999 F350 (build date December1998) doesn't like to start when the temperature hits 45 or below... been putting off checking...
The updated dorman valve cover harness doesn’t even have a plug on the inside so there’s no chance to fall off I’ve had good good luck never had a comeback
Thanks for the video. Just had this problem last weekend. We woke up at camp in a 26 degree morning and my 02 7.3 would not start. Had the same thing happen 2 years ago and the mechanic said that it was the solenoid so he replaced both of them. I did manage to get it started with a couple of squirts of starting fluid. Now I think I can test the heating coils and remedy the problem. I'm not sure if he used Ford relay's or not. Should I replace the injectors at the same time. I have 504,000 miles on my truck and never have changed anything.
I just did all that to my obs and found out I'm not getting 12v key power to the one small terminal on the solenoid and my fuse is good. I ran a wire from the fuse to the solenoid and it works now. I would assume my problem is a broken wire some where.
For the record the test light method of testing isnt fool proof for the relay.. You can also have the test light turn on, and still have a bad relay. Found that one out the hard way.
Bill im having similar problems however im getting some blue smoke as well on startup, after a minute or so it clears up. Ive done new motocraft glow plugs, new oem under valve cover harnesses and valve cover gaskets, and ford replaced my glow plug relay a year or two ago but seems its already doing what urs here is. it clicks but the glow plugs arent getting juice so ill try a new relay, but as far as the blue smoke am i in deep trouble or what should i check first 99.5 f350 146k on the engine. love your videos!
You guys crack me up bitching about 35F. Im in Alaska and my truck is an old 2000 unit auctioned off from service on the North Slope. It's always had the white smoke start up on the first start if the day. But it's never failed to start on me. Of course we plug in when its cold (oil pan and battery heaters). But Ive started it down to -20F with no trouble. I do feel bad for my neighbors when it fogs their yard with diesel smoke tho.
That's not always true. With the age on these engines, you could still have other issues. Mine wouldn't start even when plugged in, until I changed out the relay, so I assume my heater is bad, or possibly worn injectors.
If you're back working on 7.3s I got a clean one for you to look over and I'm having these same issues.. I'm just like Bob... I drive my Chevy truck on cold days... lmao
