Best tip I can think of: when you going to fast, dont lift the throttle but just use the brake while keeping the throttle pressed, this wil give a much smoother weight transfer than when you suddenly lift the throttlle. Also only lift the throttle completely when you want the car to suddenly oversteer (lift off oversteer) or when you have to slow down fast for a corner etc. Real rally drivers use this technique a lot resulting in a mucht more stable car. Be prepared though to replace a lot of braking discs! Another tip: when you find it hard to make handbrake turns, press down the clutch while using the handbrake. it will make the car turn a lot better around the corner. Letting the clutch go at the right moment is crucial though. Practice makes perfect.
Please don't suggest new players set their codriver calls to Later. It'll make them miss corners and misjudge hairpins and other dangers that require attention upfront. The base timing is fine, and if they are feeling overwhelmed it should be changed to Early, so they have more time to think about the next corner.
I disagree. I set it to later and it works absolutely fine in wrc junior and wrc 2. on the faster cars i would probably go for standard. Besides that: everybody is different…
In real life, I liked the calls to be 3-4 corners ahead of where I am. I also liked to be able to lock up my tyres, so I could slide whenever I need to. On tarmac that's not often, but if I spin its good to be able to hit the brakes when I'm traveling in the right direction- regardless of where the car is pointing! And - I'm used to the car's turning behaviour on tarmac with the front wheels locked - it's driven by the direction of the contact patch rather than the direction of the tyre;) And lastly? It's quicker without ABS, once you know what's happening ahead (yes, your notes tell you.)
Some interesting suggestions! The calls should not be late though. This means that they will come even closer to the turn leaving little to no time for prep. Up to taste to some degree. But as a new driver I think leaving it on default first. and if you feel that the calls come to early, or late. To switch as you prefer. But definitely give default a shot first. In regards to having assists on or off. It all depends how invested you want to get in the game and in Rally in general. If you think that youll want to set stage records, and are in for the long haul. Probably best to keep them off. The reason being that you want to avoid developing bad habits that can occur when using assists. ABS for example, if you tend to brake to hard and rely on ABS. Once you take it off. Whatever muscle memory you built will need ignore/fougt against. As you try to adapt to the new pressure patterns youlll need for braking. Obviously the biggest caveat here is that you need to be having fun. If you stop having fun after disabling something. Try to give yourself a "break" by turning them back on. As long as you are driving, the potential for improvement is there. If you rage quit forever. Then it doesn't matter if you only played with assists off, you wont be playing anymore. Give yourself some time. The videos you see of people doing these super clean runs. They didn't do that the first time they picked up a rally game. They've been honing their crafts for various amounts of time. For every clean run shown, there is surely multiple cars wrapped around trees, and cars ran off cliffs behind it. Even the WRC Rally1 drivers. They also have bad days, punctures, DNFs and god knows what else can go wrong. Trying to be perfect all the time is a great way to get extremely discouraged and give up. Dont give up. You can do it. For the first 2 months I started I was only palying DR2.0. And I seriously felt like every rock, tree, ditch, or cliff had my name on it and I was always raming my car into everything. Almost a year later and I got so much better! Thats until I started playing RBR. I realized. Dear lord. WRC titles are so extremely forgiving its not even funny. Still, its so much fun once you get familiar with a car and just go and send it like a mad man down stages. As long as you are having fun. Thats half the battle! I started posted videos of cold stage runs with no practice runs prior. Just to show people that not every run is perfect and its ok to mess up. Its part of the entire experience. Its not about not hitting anything ever. Its about getting to now your car, and how it behaves of various surfaces. As you experiment youll over, and under shoot. But if you stick through it and pay attention. Youll slowly get a feel for the car and start driving faster before you know it.
6:18 what rally cars exactly? I never heard of that and the Rally1 cars don't have it. It's prohibited in the regulations. "Any driving aid system is prohibited (ABS / ASR / Traction Control / ESP / gearchange ...)."
This is great, now, stupid question: how do I install an handbrake and sequential shifter on a PS4 G29 sim rig?why its so hard finding infos about playstation setups??
I would add a point, that starting with the WRC junior car is better than jumping directly into Rally 2-1 car, i.e. in the carreer mode. You get to learn how the cars feel and perform, while enjoying that flatout moments on straight sections and you wont be out of the road at the end of that straight, if you learned from point no.5 :)
Make a video on how the differential is setup for different surfaces, and how to drive with a certain type of differential setup. Maybe not "beginner misstakes" but a beginner guide.
And the most important tip of all, for all racing games: Learn the track! That is THE best way to improve your times. Find out what track is coming up, and give it a few runs before doing it for real. It will make all the difference.
Why do you say that Rally cars have ABS? They do not. I personally think it is best to have ABS off and to learn how to modulate your braking properly. IE, get used to knowing that on X surface at Y speed what is the brake threshold you have before the wheels lock up. And wheel lockup is not always bad. When done properly via the brakes you can actually forego the handbrake in certain turns in square, 1 or 2 turns. Which can lead you into a power drift that is better for maintaining speed through the corner than a hard handbrake turn.
So what is the point of the clutch in wrc? I can take off and stop with zero clutch imput is that normal in these cars? I have no clue. I would like the most realistic set up to a really rally car i just dont know how a real rally car works 🤣
6:17 We may not know it, because it simply isn't true. REAL WRC CARS DON'T HAVE ABS. Half of your tips like ABS and setting co-driver calls to "LATE" are bad for the players. New players be warned, he doesn't know what he is talking about.
I would add that you really need to prioritise maxing out the meteorologist and mechanic stats. Knowing the weather and picking the appropriate tyres is essential, as is having the ability to fix car damage without a time penalty.
If the goal is to get the co driver calls not at the most hectic moment (i.e. when focussing on actual cornering), then set it to “early”, so it comes longer before the actual corner. Setting it to “early” gives more time for the driver to process the info and act accordingly. That way you have a much better chance to successfully attack the corner and come out at speed. Setting it to “late” gives oftentimes too little time to respond properly, wrapping you around a tree or something similar. When having a bit more experience with pace notes, I find the default setting is best for me. However, none of the settings are spot on all the time. Glitches happen.
What about TCS? Does it make any sense to turn it off? I tried it and i spin out crazy often...i guess you have to be really good with throttle control to go without it...
Its better to play with it off. If you spin out. Assuming its the throttle input that is causing you to spin and not throwing your car too violently into the rotation. Then its because you are getting back on the power too soon in your turns. (Or maybe you never let off the power period?) It will sound counter intuitive but assuming you are entering your turn at the correct speed, as you start to brake and your car rotates. You will need to let off the throttle as the car slides and stabilizes itself (just a little) so that when you do get back on the power you are not feeding power into the rotation but rather pushing the car forward. They really played with the weight distribution of the cars in Generations. I could get away with much more aggresive throttle in hairpins and tight turns than I ever could in Generations. But it ultimately feels much more rewarding experience once you get used to it. I am finally somewhat proud of some of the turns I am able to pull off.
ABS is prohibited IRL WRC, while TCS completely useless in gravel but basically they set it whether 0 or 1 settings. But this is a game for fun, which I happens to like so yea, just use whatever setup that makes your driving better. Once you master it, turning it all off would be great challenge.
You play pc or console ? I play pc my setup so high but game run bad . How to settings better play ? Ryzen 7 3800x rtx2080s 16 gb combo but game shutter amd slow . Dlss open better frame but game blur
Sideways + too much gas and your tyres will heat up, *sometimes loose grip and be gone much faster. It's a rally, not a race. You have to use your rubbers wisely throughout the whole event. Great video!
2:20 i have actually studied what rally callouts mean and how to implement the correct response when i got dirt 3 way back. i went from slamming into everything to putting down fast times in minutes
no matter what WRC game I have tried... all I do is spin out... hell, I even spin out while driving real slow. while in dirt rally 2, all that hinders me, is my timing...
About Drifting: Some cars like the early Fiesta WRC cars did perform better when driven aggressively and drifted. However, the two (and possibly the greatest) drivers to win most of the championships of the last two decades, the Sebastians (Ogier and Loeb) were drivers who won often with techniques that conserve tires and didn't drift as much. Others more Flamboyant drivers, Like Peter Solberg, Did make spectacular races and wins, and won a championship, however, more often they ended dropping out of the rally with broken or crashed cars.
Wen play this game you need turn your head and mind,is not a game,is a rally and wen you go out is out!And listen you cod river is really helpful!is not AC or GT7 lol
Bro. It has plenty of bugs, including ZERO response to less than 70% throttle. FFB issues, FFB doesn't work, Wheel doesn't show up, bad cockpit audio, etc. I'm not buying until all is fixed.
@@romeosafadi Do you often reply to comments with random opinions that have nothing to do with the comment you are replying to? The throttle has definitely been addressed in the past updates. My experience compared to the first week of launch are night and day. If there is still some imperfections in it I have totally assimilated it into my driving. And now when I jump in Generations from dirt rally 2.0 I dont feel like I'm driving on a different planet.
Best tip I have is to leave Generations in the box. It has a lot of stupid software mistakes that will NEVER be fixed. This is Nocon's last version and it is all based around them wanting you to register so they can flog their kit to you. The software is a regression against their good WRC10 (or WRC9, not much difference)
Rally 1 is the class of car used in the top tier WRC Championship - think puma and yaris. rally 2 is WRC 2 Class - think skoda fabia and citroen c3. the WRC class was last years non hybrid top tier cars, they also had more aero than current crop of cars
Rally1 is wrc Rally2 is r5 Rally3 is r2 Rally4 is r2 and with the same cars but with turbo (new class made in 2019) Rally5 is r2 but more of a open kind of class still however has regulation rules to the car
@@Team_Nico_Motorsport rally3 has nothing to do with R2. It's a completely new 4wd class. Only thing in common is that the cars look same on the outside. And the rally 5 is also a completely different class. Rally 4 is old r2 with different classifications on cars.
Floating cars special ... LOL this game doesn't work with my steering wheel and I'm no fan of using my keyboard or controller for racing, it's going to the trash list on my list of racing sims and games...
The biggest mistake you can make with this game is expecting it to work. It only works on some wheel bases and even the ones where it does work it's buggy as hell. Speaking of bugs, this game wouldn't work with my wheel even though it was recognising all the buttons when mapping. It also refused to let me change it from automatic to manual
2 biggest rookie mistakes with this game are: #1: buying it #2: installing it Sadly, I made both of these mistakes myself, but hopefully, at least other people can learn from my screw-up.😢
