7 Drawbacks to ICF Construction -- Problems with Insulated Concrete Forms 

The information you gained (and now sharing) from actually living in an ICF house are golden. Of all the ICF videos i've seen, not one mentioned moisture issues and to consider wet-rated outlets/switches on the icf wall. Thanks for sharing!

I would not call those things Drawbacks. They are part of the Tip & Trick of Beat Practices with ICF. Everything is a problem if you don’t know about it.

Those are all very good points. We have been in our ICF rancher for almost three years in Canada. We still run a dehumidifier in our 4' crawlspace. Don't build a crawlspace thinking you will use it for root vegetable storage. It stays too warm. We didn't put siding on until this past summer. If you're building an ICF house yourself, finish the outside before you begin the interior. Doing exterior finishes after that fine yellow powder has formed is a TOTAL pain. We put HardiePlank on our house. It's a little more involved than putting it on a wood framed house but it is doable. We decided that everything considered, we would build ICF again. It's quiet, energy efficient, and we know it's strong. We gave away our air conditioners because the house stays cool and it's very easy to heat. We live in an area where the temperatures in the summer are over 100F and well below zero in winter. During construction, the house stayed quite warm overnight without heat on. Do check into house insurance before you build though. Many insurance companies have very little experience with ICF. Most refused to insure us and some didn't know how to classify the house. Others wanted exorbitant premiums. It's a great product to build with all in all.

Excellent video. Thanks for the info... definitely gonna put a lotta thought into it before we begin construction.👍🏾 Drawback #1 - 0:39 Drawback #2 - 1:45 Drawback #3 - 4:07 Drawback #4 - 5:05 Drawback #5 - 5:31 Drawback #6 - 6:43 Drawback #7 - 8:12

Yep, the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks, especially if you plan for ICF from the beginning...

This is a great video! I am planning on building an ICF house and doing the plans on my own, starting with an ICF wall design. Your points about wall penetrations are very good. As another wise viewer mentioned, it is probably a good idea to add a few extra electrical penetrations and cap them off with unglued PVC pipes and caps. In ICF, measure twice cut once may not be enough. I'm thinking of measure four times then have someone else check it before finalizing the window and door bucking! Your discussion about moisture was new to me in my review of ICF construction. I am curious if many others have had similar issues with moisture. Overall, you make a lot of really good points and I really appreciate the information.

TIP: Remove that yellow powdery layer of sun-aged ICF by pressure washing with a wide-spray head. Works well Handeeman did it on his Arizona ICF build... super fast & simple. Done in 30 minutes!

Really good summary of ICF issues. I would add a couple of comments or clariiers: 1. We actually found moving the blocks to be quite easy. The individual blocks weight very little and moving a bundle is fairly easy - two long 2x4s and two people can move them with ease. I do see your point for the second story. But again- a little help and they can be easily moved. 2. Great comment about penetrations - I have an outside door where I would like to have a light. The idea of drilling through 7” of reinforced concrete has kept me from putting a light there so far. Recommend you develop a “penetration plan” and have someone check it. Also consider going to a home that has been completed and think about the penetrations- think about HVAC drains, power to outside lighting, power to an outbuilding, consider a couple of “spare penetrations” for future electrical. 3. The walls are think but one great thing this gives you is nice shelves on the inside- every room in our home has taken advantage of this. Really nice for decorating at Christmas. 4. Great suggestion about interior walls - we did this as much as we could - made construction much easier. 5. We have had zero issues with humidity - we built “slab on grade” which may be the difference- the other thing we did was to use all mini-splits for HVAC which we have set to specifically remove the humidity. One thing we were warned about is that HVAC installers will oversize the HVAC- this is so true. Even after being very clear about how much more efficient the house is our HVAC guy still oversized the HVAC by 30%. Recommend you install a Direct Vent gas fire place. These are very efficient and heat the downstairs of our home very well. Our typical electric bill is under $200 a month even in the heat of the summer and the coldest part of the winter- and we have 5000ft2

House is ICF glad I went this route, learned a lot from the build and wish I could do it over again like any house you build would make changes. Did the plans myself, cost 0, super energy efficient, mouse proof telehandler was great for a lot of the work. Storing outside for short period not a problem. Contractor screwed up windows on second level, had to use concrecte chain saw to fix after pour. Would have put more penetrations in the the walls. Windows were a challenge. Cut runs for wires with a electric chain saw, no plumbing in outside walls. Dehumdifiers usefull.

We ran 2 industrial-sized dehumidifiers after walls and roof were up but before any drywall etc was installed. This quickly dried out my full ICF home after most of the water outgassed we finished the interior this works better than drying when sheet rocks ups.

Wish I would’ve known about using a dehumidifier on our basement. We moved in and within a month everything downstairs was covered in mold . With that said we now have a dehumidifier and have had no problems and love the energy efficiency. Thanks for the video very helpful!

Just Subbed🤗This is a very informative video and has opened my eyes but, has not deterred me from utilizing ICF. You explained everything perfectly,TFS💯

Thanks for sharing this! Very helpful ❤️❤️❤️

Great! Thanks for hints!

Great video! I've just started looking into ICF construction and this is the first video that I've seen that deals with what I would call the aftermath. Not that the end product is negative, it's just dealing with an building with a long curing stage that a lot of home owners are not aware of.

Thanks.....Also your free land is extremely accurate.....Buying a piece of land with an existing home and dividing the land into different plats is exactly my plan.

Very informative!

Thanks for the heads up on the moisture!

Thank you, great information.

Thanks, helpful info.

Some really good info there. Much appreciated :)

Very helpful thank you and thumbs up.

+1.. Many thanks! 7 Bumps in the road when traveling with ICF's ...

The humidity question is really interesting, thanks!!

Thanks! Interesting comment about residual moisture. We just did 3 buildings with foam-outside concrete-inside, and had no noticeable residual moisture - in fact they all seemed particularly dry. In these cases the concrete water content was very low, and the concrete is exposed to the interior.

Great info, thanks

I agree with you that one should not try to run a dryer vent up an ICF exterior wall. However, I recommend you run your dryer vents horizontally, straight THROUGH your exterior wall. This will cause less bends and ductwork where lint can gather and clog up your vent. Keep it short, straight and simple. This way, you can reach into the wall duct and clean it out by hand, rather than hiring a pro. Also, you'll need make up air coming into the home to allow good air flow out the vents. He mentioned this fresh air intake penetration in the video.

great insights and information.thanks,

Great video. It looks like The Perfect Block avoid many of these problem except size.

I needed to hear about these concerns. There is a lot about the prose of ICF. Finding an experienced ICF contractor is another important part because there are intricacies that need attention to detail. We are planning an ICF basement only, and on top a stick build with Zip R sheathing, insulation on the outside of the studs for thermal bridging issues. That way there are more options possibly later on should one want to add a window or make structural changes. It is amazing what outer insulation you can put on a home sitting on an icf basement foundation now a day, even here in Eastern Canada, Atlantic region. Thank you for this matter a fact and considerations to think about. 👍 🙏 🇨🇦

Thanks. Here in NM it works well.

Thanks for sharing!!

Thanks for the great video. I built my first full ICF home a couple of years back. I designed the house for ICF so during the design phase we thought through many of the issues you mentioned. I used Nudura, their blocks fold down so I didn't have the storage issue. They shipped it factory direct in a full semi trailer. I also didn't have any of the moisture issues that you referred to either, mind you we have a fresh air exchange system so perhaps that alleviated that. We did come to the same conclusion though, I would never build a home any other way. We have hot summers and cold winters and heating (radiant) and cooling (HP AC) is a breeze.

Thank you for the info.

I’m really glad I found your channel. I’m looking into building my first/forever home rather than buying, but am not at all jazzed about building with lumber framing. Really great information here from someone who’s worked with ICF! It seems like it requires a lot more careful planning than lumber framing or even steel, but I think I’d much prefer this for the energy efficiency and strength.

Thank youuuu!!

Thank you for sharing!

Great tips.

Helpful advice. Most of what you say is about project management rather than a fault with the ICF blocks. ie proper design and good site management are key. Helpful tips non the less.

Really good info. Thanks.

Great tips

Thank you for this, priceless information!!!

One of my issues was, is that I have had exposed ICF for a few years and now and because of the concrete setting, it has pushed out the icf blocks out slightly and some gaps have formed and we have had water ingress into the two bedrooms at the back. So, this year, I am going to waterproof my icf construction totally prior to putting on external wall insulation. Bar that - they are great but all the points made in the video are valid.

We had a brand new Blue Max Home Built as a test market in KC in 1999 this was new to builders....so our home was built as the same price as a stick frame! It withstands hurricane force winds! We did however had a built in Air Filteration system installed due to the very little air flow however utilities are so low!! Its still performing above standards!

I spent ten years building ICF here in the UK, I think is a great way to build. Most of his points were valid however I think it’s worth it for the type of structure you end up with, although I will say changing your plans to suit the blocks is useful but defiantly not essential. I would definitely recommend a heat recovery system as the wall are so air tight without it you could end up with a moisture problem.

Excellent channel! Super advice!

I've been on a barndaminium kick for a future build. I like the idea of icf though too. I think both appear to benefit from hydronic heat in the slab. I'm assuming you did that? The only draw back I see with icf is keeping mice out of the foam. I know it could be flashed with tin, but what did you use?

Thank You

#8, if not carefully built mice and rodents will make a maze in the foam insulation behind the siding and make their way into the house. #9, putting up heavy objects inside the house (on the exterior wall) is a PITA. Especially trying to determine where the electrical and "spines" are located. In most cases you have to put anchor bolts in the concrete for heavier items. Professional installation may be required if hanging a 110" TV, etc.

Excellent video

Moisture. Never thought about that. Great info. Just subscribed!

Interesting Video very informative. In the UK / Europe we have wood create Block. Made from modified recycled timber so that it is inert/ does burn/ has absolutely no food value for any insects / termites /rodents etc they are completely water proof so you could build a pool with them with no need to line it expect for aesthetics, no need to clad or render the outside of the building except for aesthetics or to comply with local planning legislation. the inside face can be chased out for cable or pipe work to the depth of the block about 40mm / 1 3/4", you can plaster directly onto them and as the insulation is on the external face, but within the block so the concrete structure for a massive thermal mass which help enormously to maintain constant internal temperatures summer and winter. We've built several houses with these and had no issues at all could your concrete have been a little to wet ? ordinarily about 50% of concretes water content is consumed during the curing process.

You make a lot of sense. Great video, thanks for sharing

when it comes to strength and durability would you suggest icf floor system or traditional poured concrete or hollow core slabs

With electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc it would be best to run it inside using a stylish exposed piping or what not.

Thanks I decided not to use ICF. To much of a hassle when I can insulate it later after the pour.

Hey Garrett, really appreciate your video especially about the moisture. We are in Australia and in an area which sounds like it has similar temp to Kansas. Extreme heat during summer and freezing cold during winter. My husband and I have been building our ICF house for the last 5 years we have just moved into half of the house, the bedrooms just before Christmas and I've been finding it difficult to breathe and found it quite stuffy. We did notice the humidity levels are very high and so after seeing your video it makes so much sense what is going on. We will definitely invest in some dehumidifiers. What are your thoughts on L size for the bedrooms? Also, are you still using them?

Thanks for posting.....Great content....I'm building my own ICF home next year. Just curious why no dryer vent on exterior wall? What problems have you discovered? Thanks for the information.

Hello. Great video !!! Helps me a lot. Could you telo me the name of the primer you use on the external wall? Is that a pink One ? I am In Brazil and need to know the name of the Brand .

For the 7th part. Conventional concrete uses cement as the binding agent. Cement goes trough a process called hydration. This means, in order to form the crystal structure cement needs water. Approximately in a 0,3 water to cement ratio ( measured in weight). Without proper moisture content cement cannot cure, nor harden. Concrete can cure and harden even underwater. Please take these informations into consideration. Concrete structures should not be dried out, they are to be kept moist for the end of the hardening process, or at least for the first 5-7 days.

You mentioned elsewhere you built load-bearing interior walls in lieu of support columns. What kind of wall are those? Not ICF kind, I suppose? Could you elaborate?

The worst part is the foam beads, from cutting and channeling. It never breaks down, and may end in water ways over time. It’s often mentioned by home owners as a concern. One person mentioned termite protection. I’m still not sure of a better building product. Cheers from Oz

Sir. There was a Company that build the Best ICF HOMES EVER in America but it was before your time. The Government and Insurance Companies told this Company you can’t build homes with our Insurance Money. So Dam Sad. This ICF Forms was use in The Gulf War. That is Way we need to Drain the Dam Swamp inDC. Thanks for your time PS this Home was Rated for a F5 Tornado 🌪

Could you educate me on the difference between ICF and UPS concrete construction? I am seeing good things from the UPS forms and they seem stronger and less expensive than ICF but it is also hard to find information on the UPS concrete homes.

O8:05 Long dryer vents runs, especially long vertical runs, are to be avoided. They are a lint fire hazard. In a long vertical run, moisture will condense within the vent pipe, more so in the winter. That leads to excessive lint accumulation and thus a fire hazard. Not to mention the problem of keeping wind driven rain water from being directed into your dryer, an electrical fire hazard. Ask any code enforcement inspector if dryer vents going through the roof are legal. The solution to dryer vents,along with any other kind of penetration, in ICF walls is to plan ahead for the dryer location before the concrete pour.

Only thing that would worry me the most is moisture, but we don't have ICF factory (and other product factory needed for building process) in my country (Croatia ), witch is shame. It would make building way easier and faster. Tehnology has come a long way, so only thing you need is sewer, and water lines, rest can work by eletricity that can be produced by solar tiles, and stored in batteries.

Excellent information thanks

Question: I have a 6,762 sq ft 2-story ICF and now working on HVAC for it. I’d entertained Geothermal but common power outages makes me hesitant. I’m interested in knowing the size and quantity of HVAC systems people with ICF use, lessons learned, etc. recommendations. Thanks

What would happen if you lined the interior side of the ICF walls with a sealed moisture barrier like visqueen?

Whom did you get your ICF from? I've seen a lot of stuff on the web from Fox blocks but...I'm not sure whom would have great support/service. Any advice?

What type of HVAC systems do you put in ICF Homes? Not sure where your located. Forced air furnace and a/c,? and/or air exchange systems or different add on are recommended for them dehumidifier/humidifiers?? Thanks

What brand is your shop. I noticed the steel main frame.

I live in the southern US and was considering having a built in dehumidifier just for climate purposes do you think that unit would be sufficient for also controlling the humidity from the curing process?

Could I put all the pipes & pipe conduit for the electric in the wall as i stack the blocks? So the electric will be in the concrete.

What state are you in? Would the moisture be a problem in dry Utah?

I'm considering about using icf for my home in the Philippines 🇵🇭 a very humid country my home will be above grade on footer...would you be concerned with the humidity issue as you describe and would a dehumidifier be your soultion?

WET RATED CONDUIT! 🙏🏼 thank you

Did you consider using Helix micro rebar? Why or why not?

outside water proofing is wort mentioning do you have HVR to mediate moisture (air exchange)??

You're a legend

Ha, the very next video I watched of yours, you talk about the concerns I commented previously. The concrete curing slowly and wicking onto the walls/drywall.

Would you say that the two years of construction was driven by the size of your home? I am curious if smaller homes ~2000sqft would take 1/3 of the time or if there is some economies of scale with a larger build and there are parts of the process that will take the same amount of time no matter the size.

Good, but for the last. Concrete hydrates and the water in the mix remain in the wall for ever. The moisture in your house is more likely due to its air tightness .

You made a comment about being taxed, measuring at home square footage from outside of wall to outside of wall. I don't believe that's the case the actual building code IBC states square footage is measured from the inside of the outside wall. But You may be right for your jurisdiction I'm just going off of what the building code status square footage, being an architect measure square footage for clients all the time not residential commercial maybe the jurisdiction you're in has modified the code

What about ICF for pool, a large rectangular pool or a “T- Shape “ pool ?

The #1 most important thing a do it yourself person can do is work with someone that has done it before. The look on someone's face when a blowout happens is priceless.

When buildings with ICF you should always use a fresh air return system in conjunction with your HVAC system. That alleviates the moisture and stale air problems that can otherwise pop up. Dryer vents should actually be located in exterior walls where possible. Using a schedule 40 pipe as a conduit through the ICF forms for all utilities and other penetrations is industry standard for ICF construction. Also the manufacturer of most dryers say that venting more than 8 feet can void the warranty.

What about using ICF with 6 or 8 inches form on Oahu, Hawaii compared to using metal stud framing?

Which ICF primer did you use or recommend?

how did you get that shop built for $25,000? And where are you located?

@ Brian’s Farming Videos. ❤️🖖🏼🇺🇸

Seems like only 5 and 6 are drawbacks. The rest are actually really benefits of ICFs, including the moisture. The longer your cure time, the stronger your concrete. Currently planning an ICF structure and planning to let the poured walls cure for 28 days before proceeding with more construction.

Perfect Block

i've been wanting an icf house forever, but i'm in central ohio and have never found a builder that uses this technology. considering that this seems to be so much better than traditional "stick" building, i'm surprised that there doesn't seem to be much demand for it.

Awesome advice , my main concern was moisture behind finished drywall from inside ...? ? How do you know after a few years there isn’t a lot of mold build up behind the drywall. ? ? Thx

Most contractors are not storing the bulk material for biuld a house they order it when they get job and store the material on the job site things like windows doors plumbing and electrical are figure out when building plans are created that is why biuld plans cost so much icf is sopst to be faster even doing diy seeing the change in color how long did it take u to go frome first form down before u put roof and siding on and tell people that it didn't harm the scf it chaging color but had to wipe it off to get the water barrier to stick that would be a sine that it was damaged not stuckter but if it was flakey that means every spot u hand to rub that off for the membrane to stick that changed its r rating

About the moisture problem, I still don't understand how could be possible the existence of mold on the walls when concrete is already cured or dried.

If you ever moved and placed a Symons panel around to pour concrete you would not put in a complaint about a foam form. Cripes that is a really big whine for nothing.

I watch you build ICF and I have questions. If you don't answer me I understand. I am attaching my pool plans so you can refer to what I'm doing. I'm building a swimming pool jacuzzi love seat and tanning deck within a 22' X40' ICCF swimming pool that will be heated year around. 1. Can I just dig a rectangular hole in my ground and fill with rock to achieve my 3' 6' 3' play pool or does my ground need to match what depths I'm trying to achieve in a play pool flooring foundation? 2. I'm using 10" perfect Blocks for the perimeter walls of the pool. The back wall above the pool line will be a 5' wall above ground attached to the pool wall. For the perimeter walls foundation do I want to use Fab Form, Fast Foot, Foothold, or Form a Drain for my Foundation? The inert walls will be either 6" or 8" perfect Blocks or should I Gunite the interior with Rebar and Gunite? 3. I was originally going to use Amvic Icf form and litedeck for the pool flooring, now I want Perfect Blocks as they seem easier and built in the US. what icf can I use for the pool flooring as I was going to have radiant floor heating? 4. Can I use an high density insulation sheathing for the pool floor as this is where all the heat escapes? 5. I am doing most of the work myself, I'm on a budget and like to do DIY stuff. But this is a huge project and I'm frightened. LOL. 6. I will be using Pebble Tec for the pool finish. I hope you can help and look forward to your input.

Did you install an ERV to help with moisture management?