One caution about installing snow guards. For steeper pitched roofs with a 'slippery' roof system, such as metal, many codes allow for a reduced structural design load for the roof framing, since it is expected that snow will be permitted to slide off the roof. Installing snow guards on such a roof can lead to structural failures during significant snowfall events. Consult a local structural engineer if you think your building falls into this sort of situation, and they can provide necessary guidance to protect your structure.
Hey Matt, I live in Tennessee. I've done about 1100 metal roofs about 400 pole barns. I use lexal on a couple hundred from maybe the year 2000 to 2005. I've gone back and worked on some and it turns yellow and gets hard and brittle. Solar seal and some of the other metal roofing sealants hold up better
Lexel is a great product made by Sashco. Sashco makes a Lexel like product for the roof called ‘Tthrough the Roof‘. Even better temperature performance and they maintain much more UV inhibitor‘s.
I mounted my solar panels to my metal roof with 200 pound magnets at every single roof connection. Works great so far through all the hurricanes & tropical storms here in Florida. Great job on the video's, keep them coming 👍
Matt, it'd be great of you could do an updated video on high performance (R-60) roof assembly options, particularly vaulted roof assemblies...framing options, insulation options, waterproofing options, etc. I'm starting to plan my future home build and I've got a pretty good idea of how I'm going to handle the wall assembly, but I'm stuck on the vaulted roof. I do plan on using standing seam metal finish because I'll be adding solar panels, but it's the rest of the assembly that I'm not sure about. Thanks!
Good video. The fact that you are up there sweeping leaves leaves away from your skylight curbs is a reminder that you also need a cricket above anything projecting from the roof.
@@N20Joe A cricket on the roof is a small feature that functions like a mini-roof, with a ridge and two valleys. It deflects rain to both sides to prevent a pile up. They are usually found where a chimney goes through the roof.
HATED doing peal and stick over my entire roof by myself when it was cold and freezing and when it was hot and sticky!!! Such a PAIN but so glad I have it!! 8 months or more fully exposed to the weather and not a single leak. Super thick tar in the middle and plastic on both sides! Even if my roof fails I know that stuff will keep on protecting. Wip 300HT.
Just saying, I wouldn't think your experience after eight months is very informative about the performance of a system that is supposed last 50 years, and might still be around in 100 years. Heck, I lived in a house with asphalt shingles for 15 years, and didn't worry that there were a couple of broken shingles. Was much more concerned about issues with the kids and the marriage.
Northern metal roof owner here. Only annoyance I have with our roof is that the snow rail catches literally every piece of tree debris possible. Definitely something to consider if you are in a semi tree filled area.
Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! ru-vid.comUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
Every thing you described in your opening sounds exactly like Northeast Wyoming. Winters routinely drop below -10, summers routinely hit 100+. We get high winds, blizzards, golf ball size hail. Basically, all the worst weather extremes are all here.
Great video Metal is the best. My guess is most homes will either be metal or tile in the future. Both, if installed correctly, can far outlast a shingle roof. Also insurance is beginning to require most shingle roofs over 15 years old to be replaced in high wind areas. Crazy. Couple things on the video, in my experience sharkskin SA is a death sentence to install on roofs over 6/12 because the top layer of fuzzy felt comes off and sticks to your boots turning them into skates. It also should not be used with tar because it delaminates from the petroleum. Lexel is a great sealant in some aspects, but it melts in the heat before curing. You end up with a melty puddle if used after 10 am in Florida summers. I prefer quad max sealant. When installing a standing seam metal roof, the benefit is not having exposed fasteners. So why put a pipe flashing on with exposed fasteners? Instead, use a shingle boot and a split seam method. Panel below the penetration goes on, the boot goes on top of it, z flashings around the boot, and then the panel above is installed. No exposed fasteners or 10 tubes of caulk needed. Same method for fan vents. The roofers did the same thing for the skylights that you installed on your roof as well. Not sure why they didn’t use that logic on the pipe boot. Anyways just my tips.
Yeah but I was quoted $36,000 for metal vs me doing shingles for maybe $3-4k. I’ll die before I ever get up to the metal roof cost after replacing the shingles 3 times.
@@neckofthewoods24 okay, but metal material cost is only slightly higher than shingle material cost. If you have enough knowledge to install a shingle roof, then you could also do a metal roof. Metal is more tedious but not as labor intensive in my opinion. Also, shingles are more affordable now, but there may be a hefty environmental tax on the disposal and production of petroleum products like asphalt shingles, tar paper, and roofing cement in the future while metal is highly recyclable so may not be taxed as heavily…
@@michaelyoder7329 that was me doing the metal/labor. The trim, caps, pieces, parts etc are literally 12x more than a shingle when you add it all up. Could you get dirt cheap metal?? Yes but who’d want it? I’d rather have a nice looking shingle than a cheap shed metal roof.
@@neckofthewoods24 $3-4k for shingles vs $36k for metal on the same house? #1 $36k would have to be for metal shingles as a roof covered in 4k of materials including the cheapest 3 tab in the world would not also be a house that generates a quote for a $36k standing seam roof. Also where the OP and I live in FL it is not legal to use low end shingles due to hurricanes. My inlaw's roof for a 2400 sq ft rancher 3 yrs. ago was $23k with only a few plywood sheets repalced. The lowest shingle quote I got through my GC friend last month was $14k if no wood repair on a 1900 sq ft house rancher. Could I do it cheaper myself? Yes but Im not taking a week off work just to spend it up on my roof by myself. Standing seam was quoted as $13k for materials 7 years ago and $21k last week for all non wood materials included (24 guage Galvalume 1.5 in standing seam) . My neighbor's shingled hip roof is 12 years old and insurance just told him to replace or they will drop him and we are not in south FL. I absolutely will be installing Galvalume in the next 2-3 months and doing it to Coastal standards. I seriously doubt that it will have to be replaced in the next 50 plus years. Shingles every 12 years is 4 roof jobs in the same time span. No way I'm doing it myself 4 times (id be 89 and putting on the roof)! LoL Not! Likewise I'm not spending $50k plus (over the 4 shingles installs to have shingles that absorb heat like crazy so I can pay more on air conditioning than metal. A metal roof will lower your electric bill and increase property values. I grew up on a farm in PA and there was a reason all 5 barns, 2 sheds and the house were all metal roofing and in the 30 years we lived there none needed to be replaced. The house was on the tax records since 1852. Metal roofing is the only long term solution when you factor everything in.
Regarding skylights: I have always been surprised that these are installed as shown on your roof - with a vertical wall facing up the roof slope. It seems a natural place for leaves to gather or water, snow, and ice to form a pool. I have a turbine vent in my highly pitched roof that has the same profile. When I have the roof redone, I intend to have a V shaped detail added to the upper edge so any water or snow coming down the slope will be deflected around the vent. If that edge has been sealed correctly, as you certainly did with your lights, there should be no problem but deflecting the flow still seems like a good idea. Thanks for your videos.
@@tnails2397 was hoping to hear suggestions on how to have those installed in northern regions. This year we are getting tons of snow here in Minnesota. It was the first year I had to use roof rake in 15 years 😀 I see all my vent pipes under snow, can’t imagine what skylight would look like
I liked your video! Great advice. I want to add a few things for viewers. I have much experience with metal roofs. I live in Canada where we get lots of snow. I want the snow to slide off instead of adding thousands of pounds of accumulated snowload on the trusses even though they are designed to carry it, so I never use snow dams. Instead, I design homes and buildings with 3 foot overhangs so the snow slides off well beyond the edges of buildings. It's overkill and more costly but worth it. I also always design and build so entrance doors and garage doors are at gable ends to avoid any accumulation of snow and accidentally getting injured when it slides. And it does! And when wet snow piles up and freezes, it"s almost impossible to remove. Your car will be trapped in the garage till May. Which is fine if you've got a young good looking wife and who likes to shop. Hahaha
It would pay to coordinate between the solar panel installer and the roof installer early. Rood installers have said additional standing seam roof clips would be needed to help support the solar panels. Not a lot - but a few additional.
On radiant barriers (RBs) in hot climates: RBs are a 1-way insulating strategy. If the RB is on the underside (towards attic space), it will not slow heat from entering your attic from the shingled exterior. RBs facing the inside of the attic space will only serve to to push radiated energy back IN to your attic that would otherwise be trying to get out from the space. Someone else on this video commented on putting a reflective barrier on the decking, then air gap, then metal roofing. Ideally, the air gap is vented at the low (soffit) side & high (ridge) side, which will create a convective flow that will help pull heat out of this air gapped space, reducing the heat that enters your attic. This is the way to go if you want to minimize heat capture.
Based on what I have read by other contractors and manufacturers, you have described the optimal way to install a radiant barrier. Others have pointed out that it works both ways, regardless of how you install it. If you think about, it makes sense. The energy is penetrating (radiating) through substances until it is reflected by the radiant barrier. The substrate of the radiant barrier is simply another substance. One of the manufacturers of a radiant sheathing product advises installing the product face down in roof decking applications. In that thread, I asked why not facing up. The answer: it is too slippery to walk on! But it apparently still works great face down.
Perfect timing on this video. I was literally just sketching out a plan for a one-story garage apartment using trusses and (probably) a shallow pitch standing seam roof. Agree with all your suggestions and thank you for the tip on maintaining an air space between the metal roofing and underlayment. One last thing, if you live within a few hundred feet or so of salt water (as I do in coastal Virginia) there are grades of standing seam specifically for the salt air. As a matter of fact, I believe its required to maintain the warranty. Thank you Matt!
My house on Cape Cod is a half mile from the ocean. The metal vendor would not warrant steel in that location which caused me to switch to alluminum. Same benefits, no rust.
After tons of leaks and a lot of experimenting, we also think it's better to put the screws in the ridge. It mainly allows the metal to expand contract and keeps the screws from backing out. Another massive no-no is putting screws in advantec or OSB. It's just too soft
Great video. Im going ahead and doing a standing seam roof on The Farmhouse next year in Utah. S5 makes a good Avalanche Snow Rail that attaches directly to the seam. And like you stated, S5 makes attaching solar panels really easy with their standing seam mounts.
Installed countless metal roofs. My experience with most ice and water shields is they are recommended to extend over exterior wall planes 2' into warm zone. Example: if you have a 2' eve then you need to install ice shield minimum 4'. Sense most ice shield comes 3' typically install two course for your coverage
When installing a roof, it’d be a great idea to lay a reflective foil as a radiant barrier on top of the underlayment, then place the furring strips then apply the roof. The radiant barrier with the airspace created by the furring strips will reflect back 90% of the heat… that’s heat that will not radiate into your attic, keeping the home much cooler during the summer, and warmer in the winter
@@bodyzoasispersonaltraining9186 between the roof deck and the sheet metal? the foil won't go anywhere unless you open the roof again for repair/maintenace.
It would seem like a great idea sure, but then imagine what happens when you get condensation forming.. the propriety roofing underlays are all breathable membranes now boys have been for quite some time. You must use the correct underlay or you will have real issues, trust me, roofer 35 years 🤷♂️
For anyone watching this video - when Matt talks about roof venting @ 7:00, his plumber made an error. Do not combine all your vent branches into one pipe before understanding the below. There's something called aggregate venting - UPC code 904.1 - look it up - you basically need to vent the same diameter of air through the roof directly from the main sewer line that matches the diameter of the building's sewer line - so if you have a 3" abs soil line, you want at least 3" of total diameter through the roof that comes directly from that main line - can be broken up, like 2 x2" pipes and 1 x1.5" pipes , which again have to go from the 3" line to the roof. Clearly if you're looking to reduce penetrations, go with just one 3" pipe through the roof - the other branch vents can connect and combine into one line prior to venting through the roof. If I bungled up the explanation, simply look up Aggregate Venting and soil lines.
ALSO if you have soffit vents and a ridge vent you should not vent your bathroom exhaust below the soffit. You should also not combine bathroom vents to the same outlet.
@@themanicmarauder Is that because the exhaust will then be drawn into the attic? I have noticed in this Florida county new homes have often had the bathroom venting into the eaves (which have that perforated vinyl material).
@@misterlyle. Yes, it might be more of an issue where cooler climates can make condensation form on the roof decking. It can cause mold growth when warm moist air is pulled through the soffit vents by the ridge vent. If you don't have soffit vents then you don't need to worry about it.
@@themanicmarauder Thanks for your reply. Air flow from the eaves to the ridge vent is the usual treatment here, but the attic is usually like an oven.
You talked a bit about sealants here for your roof penetrations, now having worked in the marine industry and the chemical industry for 35+ years, and having used 3M's 5200 sealants for marine crafts it is an awesome product. It does not suffer from UV degradation to any noticeable extent. Yes it is expensive about it will outlast any silicone product on the market today, and it's been on the market for about 40 years. Awesome product.
Matt, thank you, I'm gonna do steel on a modular home. Your tips are well taken pal. Thanks for all you do, keeping this old ish stick framer up to date!
😎 We installed our white metal roof in March. Above the decking, we used 2.5 inches of rigid foam shiny side up, then purlins. The temperature is awesome in there even though we haven't put in the fiberglass insulation yet. 👍
@@living2day617 We bought the metal, trim and gutters from Mueller, we had it delivered and installed it ourselves. Our well house is covered in white metal sheeting, and it still looks great, so we don't expect we'll have any trouble with it looking dirty.
Nice and comprehensive breakdown. Some thoughts: 1) Have you ever installed skylights diagonally? Since I've never installed one of these myself, I'm not sure how much more complicated it would be to install and seal, but seems to me that it would (to some extent) prevent the accumulation of water, snow, and leaves behind it, and the diamond shape may actually fit better in some house and roof designs. 2) Regarding heat, fire resistance, and an air gap under the metal: the air gap should also provide insulation against heat transfer that might otherwise ignite the layers under the metal, and the wire mesh spacer would act as a flame trap, to inhibit and prevent flames from traveling under the metal and up the roof.
Maybe if you don't mind having a rafter blocking part of your view. Skylights are designed to fit between the rafters then extend lengthwise to give you a decent overall size, that's why they are almost always rectangle unless you get a really small one.
Some are, but not all. Openings are framed in for extra wide skylights that interrupt rafters. Wouldn't be much trouble to frame for a diamond shaped skylight, if it was planned for far enough in advance. Might be a bit trickier if the house uses a truss system instead of basic rafters, though.
Love your videos, Matt. Been a subscriber for many years. You've provided us with so many ideas/tips as we prepare to build our forever/retirement home...
If you are doing metal roofing Do not do anything with exposed fasteners. Coming from a GC/ roofing contractor. When I do re-screw jobs on metal roofs replacing those gasketed screws I always tell the client theres only one thing I can guarantee and that is its going to leak again.
@@ridenorthwest1687 The normal hardware store fasteners are terrible but do you have any experience with the zinc head fasteners that cover the washer? I have heard they last much longer than the bog standard hardware store metal roofing screws, that in my opinion shouldn't even exist anymore.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Yes I have, there are various options out there. It seems that the full head that coveres the entire washer from UV work much better but there is still that fact that you are only making a waterproof roof through use of those little washers. We do not offer installs on any roof system that will receive exposed fasteners. If you are just replacing then do about 5 mins of google work and you'll find some quality stainless steel full headed fasteners.
I plunked down on a stone coated steel tilcor roof. It costs about 2.5x a shingle roof. I’m glad I did it now because it’s a 50 year roof. And I did it before inflation affects the costs of my next two shingle roofs which are bound to happen in the next 30 years. Pretty sure the cost of the roof is rolling into the home resale value, so all worth it
Well done. On this design-build house in east Texas we went with a reflective underlayment that reflects 97%. Used 1x4 for air pocket and value engineered to a rib panel roof in lieu of a standing seam. We also investigated the warranties with regard to the fading & chalking of the paint on the metal wall & roof panels. It's an internal company video that I'll try to get out, if interested.
If you are worried about snow tearing off a vent pipe near the eaves, you can buy snow guards that clamp to the pipe and roof. They reinforce the pipe and actually "slice" the snow when it slides down.
I usually recommend buttering exposed fasteners with silicone. The way, the epdm gasket isn't exposed to uv for 20+ years. Usually done on commercials roofs at interior face of parapet so no one ever sees them.
the solar option is actually the biggest driver to me re-doing the roof with standing seam metal. I don't want to be pulling PV panels to replace shingles, and no roof penetrations makes it such a no-brainer.
Omg I just wanted to get ideas for underlayment for my shed here in California weather, but now I see there’s so much to add!! 😅I’m gonna keep focused and just add underlayment 😜
Add a high temp, self healing, synthetic self adhering, underlayment under all metal roofs. It will stay watertight even if the roof starts to leak. I tend to want the vents seperate for each plumbing stack, so we can snake down through it if we need to. And, put snow breaks above and below, all the penetrations, including skylights, and chimneys.
Have as few penetrations in your roof as possible...has skylight on his roof!😂 Nice! Also, the metal roofs with screws showing are much better in wind! I watched many blow away in my neighborhood during Katrina! ❤👍😉
I would avoid mounting solar on a residence roof unless there is no other option. Only in places where this is little to no consequence if there is a leak like a solar shed, detached garage, solar carport, solar gazebo or even solar fencing is a great option. Great video as always. This channel is a true national treasure!
@@BrianKrahmer Those roofs are really just covering for open air sunshades. I meant the roof of the house and you know that , but good call out on my confusing wording.
I have installed a screw down metal roof on three outbuildings with tremendous success . The exposed fasteners hold debris and dirt somewhat and the avalanche events with melted snow, ice, and snow are powerful. They sound like thunder when it happens and I have lost trees and lost part of my fence due to the power of the avalanche. I need to install snow guards!
Can you talk about old roofing that has tongue & groove sheathing and what you would do when putting a new metal roof on an older house? Florida house, built in 1932. love your content
A few things I’ve seen here in western ny snow belt, A lot of corrugated metal roofs with exposed screws that rust after 5-10 years. Thus leaving a roof with a lot of holes. Also, homes with multiple roof sections and different pitches lend to over complicated design and problems with flashing details. Think every project through very well for a good product is the key takeaway.
I have never understood either curb or deck mount skylights design. You would think they would make the upper/leading edge more boat hull like to channel rain and debris to flow around the skylight install instead of acting like a dam requiring yearly cleaning to prevent wet debris building up and creating the perfect environment for corrosion to become a major issue resulting in an eventual corrosion hole and roof leaks.
Soak those metal roofing screws in 303 aerospace protectant, let dry and the longevity of the rubber is amazing, spray 303 on the screws every few years there after and your golden
I don’t mind the exposed fasteners, wherever there’s screw heads, there’s also wood right there so I don’t have to worry about denting the metal, also gives you a little extra traction so you don’t slip and fall.
Our home shingles just lifted the other day from those high winds here in Abilene TX. Roof was replaced in 2014. 😩. I had to get up on the ladder in the wind and hold it down while putting pan head screws in temporarily until I can have someone come fix it.
A couple of questions - well, three. 1. In a wildfire zone would it be a good idea to add a metal cover to the silicone boot on the roof? If so, any particular brand? 2. Attaching the trusses or rafters to the top plate with hurricane straps or Timberlock screws is a good idea but what if the top plates get ripped away from the wall studs? How can we improve that connection - possibly right down to the floor structure? 3. I've read that hurricane straps are stronger when attached to the outside of the wall (under the sheathing) rather than to the inside and underneath the drywall. Have you heard that?
Hi ryan soo, I'm downunder in Australia and we just use the Silicone boots as shown ( the Aussie brand ) even with a metal chimney they're fine, in regards to your second question in high wind areas here we are required to have the roof attached with a connection to the floor slab
Building on the Texas Gulf Coast where hurricanes hit often we decided to use 1-1/4" galvanized metal strap that is run from the anchor bolt for the bottom plate up and over the top plate then back down to the anchor bolt again. There's a strap tighter used for trailer house tie downs used too. We put one every other anchor bolt. This isn't required by code but informed customers love it because no hurricane or tornado is going to pick it up. (A few times we've tried actually going over the top of the rafter but the changing angles make tightening a severe pain so discarded that). The rafters get regular top plate to rafter tie plates Note that the strap makes installation of batt insulation a bit more difficult but the tradeoffs are worth it.
In Kauai, post Hurricane Iniki, the common uplift reinforcement for stick building is Simpson SP4 or SP6 U-shaped straps that go under the bottom plate and over the top plate and onto each side of the stud, tying the plates and studs together. Simpson 2.5A hurricane clips.. or greater... connect top plates to rafter / truss tails. If the bottom plate is on SOG, then anchor bolts through bottom plate to SOG. On columns with girder beams, wall studs are strapped to girders, bottom plates can be lag bolted to girders and beams, through bolted or use reversed hold downs with through bolts. Hold downs and strapping must be on the same side of stud / post. They're designed for the outside of the wall, so they grab the rafter part of the truss, not just the bottom chord. Some engineers will allow the builder to put them on the inside, but I view it as lazy. If all that 2.5A is connected to is the punch plate on the truss bottom cord, a big wind can more easily lift your roof eaves, and so long sailor.
After having a tree go through my house, I’m in the middle of doing a full gut and second floor addition, totally solo. Im really liking the look of metal. Im leaning towards that gallium (spelling?) for doing a single install buy myself. Your channel and its commenters has been a huge help on understanding what I’m getting into and best practices. I love your Outro, especially when it made that builder in Mass cringe! Keep doing your thing my dood!
Missed opportunity (especially for black metal). Why no reflective underlayment? I used galvalume, 45degree venting battens, and ordered reflective underlayment from SharkSkin. That underlayment was so bright you couldn't work up on the roof at times. You would fry and be blinded. I live in a 60 year old post modern home with no insulation and a 35 year old A/C (near Houston) and the efficient metal roof has postponed needing to insulate or replace our inefficient A/C.
Twenty years ago my roofer said with 14" SIPS, I don't need underlayment. And although I had purchased it separately, he didn't use it. At the time, I was young and dumb so I took his word for it. Luckily, AFAIK, it hasn't leaked (yet). I wonder if I should put Lexel or Quad on the screw heads.
Issue with SIPS is the top layer of OSB can rot. For SIP you need a high perm (breathable) underlayment that allows moisture to escape. Moisture from inside your home will be carried up into the SIP. if there is no venting for the moisture to escape it will condense at night (or during the winter) and rot the top OSB layer.
@@guytech7310 If everything was installed correctly and properly maintained, as you previously indicated, a good metal roof is supposed to be the last one you buy.
nice video one comment. Lexel caulk should not be used with smp or pvdf(kynar) paint per the manufacture. use a sealant designed to stick to the roof coatings with your roof jacks.
Did you say 'prophylactically'? 5:17 I think you meant 'proactively'. 😁 That sheathing is WAY overkill and extremely expensive, at least here in Canada. Using plywood instead of OSB with waterproof membrane 6 ft up from the eaves is more than sufficient, unless you plan on screwing up your install? Skylights lose way too much heat in cold climates, not to mention the potential for leaks. I do really like the idea of hidden fasteners, and putting the vents as high up as possible is a great tip.
I don't follow your logic for venting below the metal. If you're worried about condensation, allowing moisture-laden air to circulate under the metal will just lead to more condensation. With the metal right on the sheathing, no air can circulate and there should be no condensation. If there is a small leak somewhere, the water will still be still be able to drain down following one of the ribs or striations.
Condensation forms due to the temperature difference between the two sides of the metal surface. Air flow allows the condensation to evaporate and prevents wicking ...my best guess.
Unless your metal is flat, you’ll have ribs which will be elevated above the decking. There will always be an opportunity for condensation between the metal and the deck. Like he said, you don’t have to elevate it with a mesh or furring strips, it just is a best-practice. You’ll get more consistent air flow with it raised, theoretically.
Great video! How did you decide what angle to put the furring strips? I understand the angle helps with water running down if there is some. But most often is see them parallel the roof line. Or perpendicular. I can’t find info on diagonal.
getting my metal roof installed tomorrow! using gripseal synthetic peel and stick underlayment with high temp and ice+water resistance, and the roof is going directly over it. Hope that's the way to do it on the PNW 😅, I sprung for 24G and the plumbing vent flashing is DEKTite.
Depending upon pitch may require 2 to 3 different levels of snow ice retention system 12"up from eaves next would be 24" from eaves so 12" 36" and up to 5 ft
Nice to hear you say 20 year life on the neos (same as the rated lifespan we have here in Australia) Seen a lot of comments on US based roofing groups where they swear 5 years max, ice always put that down to poor install or inferior products.
I've always wondered about putting sheets of Styrofoam in between the boards that you screw the metal roof onto. Would that be okay or cause condensation underneath that couldn't dry out or drain? It just seems like it would be a good way to keep the heat from getting into the attic. This would be for a house in the South.
Most of us guys that do metal roofing don't use the roof boots. They just cause leaks because they make a little damn behind them. And there's way too many screw penetrations. We just cut our metal real tight and put a very thick bead of caulking that is polyurethane-based. Never lexel
Fantastic video, Matt, thanks a million. What are your thoughts between steel versus aluminum roofing? There's a company up here (Oregon) that offers standing-seam and shingle-panel designs in aluminum. They argue steel will rust & not last as long. (also said standing-seam is more, not less expensive than shingle-panel, which was a shock)
Hi Matt, where you used the foam insulation on top of the ply sheathing, how'd you go fixing the timber battens through that foam? Just into the zip board? Unfortunately we can't even get zip boards here in Australia they look like a great innovation. Enjoy the vids cheers Brendan
You can pre-mark the locations of the battens before installing the insulation Since they are uniformaly spaced (ie 16 OC) you can measure off to make sure your screws are hitting them. You can also periodically check in the attic to see if you're off. Another alternative is to install SIP roofing, and are fastened to the beams using long timber lock screws.
Great information, thanks. I am considering replacing a shingle roof w/a standing seem metal roof on our home in the Caribbean…..hot and humid. The home is a open air, vaulted ceiling, no attic, Balinese style home. The contractor generally places the metal roof over shingles or on the decking (owners preference) with 3/4” batons, foam insulation board between the batons and the metal roof attached to the batons. Question: what type of insulation board would you recommend (Polyiso, XPS, EPS, other) and thickness of insulation (1/2”, 3/4”)? Since the home is open air, the insulating factor R value is not a major goal or critical. Our key goals are to minimize oil canning and to provide some sound suppression from heavy rain fall that occurs at times. Thanks in advance….Rob.
Low gloss paint and 24 guage or 22 guage Narrow panels and minor striations help also. Polystyrene will melt need iso. With low gloss paints it tricks the eye.
Standing Seam solar. I am doing 24 gauge hidden, smooth also. Didn't catch the pàrt about taking them off before a storm....do you have to take them off before every big storm, even snap off no penetration, sounds prohibitive? Thanks, Tampa, FL
He was referring to damage after a storm to the roof itself having to remove the panels to fix the roof, but if you knew of say a hurricane coming then I would talk to your installer and see about making roof side connections so you could easily remove them to store them inside.
If venting the metal roof with 1x4’s, it would seem that it would create a bad chimney effect in a wildfire scenario. Heard that chimney effect on vented attics is what caused many homes to combust in recent wildfires.
Most homes have vented attics so a metal roof venting really isnt the problem. Best option is to keep grass short and any brush, trees away from the home.
I really like your videos and approach. Any recommendations on how to find a company with a similar focus in Middle Tennessee? I bought a 100 year old farmhouse last year and am planning a renovation in the coming years.
Great video . I disagree with a 20 year life of a gasketed screws . Yes replace "before " they wear out !!!! and .. screw on the ridge not in the valley . 99% of the water , on a roof is in the valleys . Please go look at 50 plus year old farm roofs. All the "nails" are on the ridge . yep standing seams are more $'S but worth it .
As to solar panels - I would install metal roll up garage door with electric motor to protect the solar panels from severe weather & hail. Not sure though about snow on solar panels and how that aspect is delt with
Solar panels are tested by firing ice balls at 125 MPH - tempered glass even 3.2MM thick is very tough. You can find some videos of the testing I’m sure. Cheaper than your garage door idea (not super practical over a large area IMO) is to pay extra for glass:glass panels which are a cover glass layer and back glass with solar laminated in between - that’s what we made when I built a solar factory and they are beast.
What’s the minimum slope on your roof system, such as on the “lantern” pop up with the clerestory windows? Thinking about spec’ing a small, 1.5:12 shed roof addition in San Diego with a metal roof.
No idea what his roof is but the metal roof manufactures will tell you what the minimum slope is. The metal I saw requires sealant where panels overlap below a 3:12 slope, and I think it could go down to 1:12 that way. 1.5 is pretty minimal slope though so you might want to consider rubber EPDM roofing.
Snow sliding off our metal roof has sheared off the screwed in snow breaks. Has also sheared off all the vents. Now putting vents through side walls. Like the idea about minimizing the # of vents and also keeping them higher up on the slope. Wonder why whoever built or roofed this house didn't think of that.
