Installing metal roofing and the associated trim is not that difficult to do. Here I apply drip edge, fascia, gable trim, and the metal roof panels on my tiny log cabin build.
OMG! I FINALLY found a video detailing BOTH gable ends and showing what happens when you get to the opposite gable and don't land on a rib. Use a furring strip, or plan the roof to purposely land on a rib. Not only did you break that down with perfect details, the entire video was in perfect detail as well. I mean gosh, I wish there were more videos with REAL details like this one. YOU SIR, ALONG WITH MAYBE 2 1/2 OTHER PEOPLE, ARE WHAT MAKES RU-vid DIY WORTH IT, especially after searching and wasting hours upon hours watching dozens of videos for weeks looking for a PROPER metal roofing installation video. Literally, 99 percent of these construction videos, whether "professional" or DIY, leave out important details that are needed for people who are actually planning to build. I don't watch these videos for entertainment or just to wind down for the day, or just because I like watching them. I ACTUALLY plan to build, so I need details that most of these wannabe "Home Improvement Show," babbling on about nothing, videos on RU-vid leave completely out, which then have me searching for years on end. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS PROPERLY DETAILED VIDEO, I greatly appreciate it!
I love your video the best( I am going to ask my Mennonite friends to do my roof) I couldn’t believe, we’ll I could, you are Amish, thank you 🙏 God for showing me you video thank you too!! From California 🙏🐾🐶🌲🏡
Nice job on the roof. I am building a small shed for my hole house generator and decided to put a metal roof on, as opposed to a shingle roof. The roof is hinged to allow access to the generator inside and the shingle roof was too heavy. This metal roof is much lighter and serves the purpose. I was particularly interested in the gable end caps that you used and how you installed that. Nice job on that. Thanks for posting...Roger
Great video thank you, just contemplating a similar but much smaller job. In the UK so using different sheeting, but very similar design, and I'm sure the same principle. You certainly live in a nice part of the world, so much space! take care ,bsst wishes from England
I used two cargo tie-downs to hold my panel in place while I positioned the sheet where I wanted it. I tied one end to the opposite side of the roof and used the hook to hold the panel on the working side. Worked purdy good! :-)
Well that last rib isn't really to hold up the gable ends it mostly to stop water from going to the edge. You can hold it up by the side screws. It's best to measure entire length and devide by 9 inches so a rib don't fall right where that end piece needs to sit flat.
Sorry no. There’s a building in the back of this video that has a lean to roof with metal roofing. I’m wondering if you used drip edge to do all four sides of that roof as it doesn’t come to a peak at the top? Thanks 😊
@@theweightliftinglab , I used drip edge on the bottom and sides. On the top I used a bent angled piece to cover the roofing and the fascia. I made it 8” coverage on the roofing and I think 6” over the front edge. It’s screwed on to the roofing ridges underneath with roofing screws.
I am sure it seems blatantly obvious.... but uhhhh, its expensive and want to be accurate. I am roofing a 20x20 leanto shed essesntially. Measure from one end to other end and side to side... add 2 inches to each end and each side for overhang? Divide width by size of panels and get the sum total of how many panels I need? If I wanted a panel 18 feet 3 and 5/16s - they will make it that length? I know I said 20x20 - but asking that the metal can be cut specifically to the size I want. Thanks! Very informative video!
Thanks for watching. What you described is correct. However the width of a panel is not the same as the coverage of a panel due to the overlap. Make sure you are using coverage for your calculation. Yes, if you have a metal roofing manufacturer or supply house they will manufacture your panels to whatever length you need. You talk about overhanging the panels on the sides. They do make a gable end trim piece that covers edge of the panels by about 4” over the panel and 4” over tour gable boards. I don’t know if that’s something you can do or not.
You’ll have to find a metal roof fabricating company or a building supply that can order it for you. Mine came from Wagler Steel in Lancaster County PA. g.co/kgs/1Zbjmns
Thanks for watching. I’ve done it that way also. I see no real advantage one way or the other. I just out checked out multiple metal roofing sites and most are similar to what I did.
Thanks for watching. Sometimes you’ll get scratching no matter how careful you are. One way to help a bit would be to measure carefully and pre drill your holes in the ridge cap, place it in place and mark the holes and pre drill your roof metal. It definitely helps with 2 people on the roof. Snapping chalk lines can help making sure the cap is centered correctly before marking the roof metal. If all else fails and you do scratch then the roofing manufacturer should have touch up paint to match your colors and help prevent rusting.
@@LancoAmish every place on my roof where the edge of the ridge cap meets the roof panel already has rust there. The roof is 15 years old. I have been applying Loctite rust converter to every place I see rust. I saw one video after posting my question to you that had both edges of the ridge cap rolled over about 1 inch on each side so that there was no sharp edge digging into the roof panel.
Old method was to always put on ribs. Most seem to put on flats now. I have repaired more problems with rib screws than with flat screws. Bottom line - your preference UNLESS the metal manufacturer instructs otherwise.
My walmart rugged sharks have sorta a safety grip but I'm only afraid if I think I'm gonna fall.. and on a metal roof it's really way to easy to slide right off. not to use a rope at least . But I want me some magnet shoes for sure
Thanks for watching. Purlins create air flow and the gap also has insulating value. They also allow for the metal to contract and expand better than if the metal was attached directly to the decking. The space between the purlins can also be insulated. I would definitely use purlins.
@@LancoAmish well I will have to consider this mine going to be going on an old barn that doesn't need to be insulated at all just for storage of my ATVs
I always think of the edge ridge as one side has 2 but cheeks and the other has half butt cheeks when working with the roof for over lap the half butt over the full butt cheek. I use loctite polyurethane flashing caulking and Butyl tape too. learned it on my own and watching youtube, the guys at treasure valley steel are helpful to tell you what caulking to use and what not to use for metal roof
Thanks for watching. No I did not. The ridge cap is centered on the ridge and screwed through the top of the ridges of the roofing underneath. The screws should be at least 2” long to make sure they grip into the wood purlins along the ridge.
Why don’t you also put vertical battens from bottom to top that sit on rafters, that way there would be much more air flow in combination with horizontal battens?
Not a good idea.. you'll have to run your screw tighter to ensure there's no gap because the metals will separate from each other and the wood with your first initial screw.. metal sweats and that extra lap will hold that moisture between the panels.. Hopefully not too many people listened to the "tips" that were given because they will have problems with their roofs
Thanks for watching and leaving a question. Most manufacturers recommend metal roofing be attached on the flats. Not only does screwing through the ridge not make use of the washer very well it can distort the roofing when tightened too much. I know of no one in this area, there are dozens and dozens of construction crews here using metal, that screw the ridges. Thanks again.
@@LancoAmish I heard it's better for keeping the roof square and not distorting the roof.. I put my first screws on the flats up top when doing a gable roof.. makes sense to do it on the flats cause it does distort the roof doing it on the ridges.. I'm curious how that goes Long term and do you put paint over your screws when finished?
The holes make it so much easier…no chalk lines to snap to keep screws lined up, no slipping screws to cause scratches that rust, and can reach farther to install the screws. The screws are self tapping but that doesn’t mean drilling is a waste of time.
@@LancoAmish sorry, there's no "debate". You'd get your arse fired for pan screwing. Logic would dictate that you wouldn't make a whole where water runs.
@@robsmith6087 , sorry my friend but the manufacturer recommends in the flat. “And the fact of the matter is that most U.S. metal roofing manufacturers say you should put screws into the flat, because this location offers a solid wood surface just beneath the metal panel, resulting in a safer, tighter, more secure seal.” Stop living in the past my man and doing subpar work. I’d fire you in a second for doing it the wrong way.
First Greatly Done Video. The Best. I doing a roof also soon. Putting half inch 4x8 aluminum backing insulation Starform installation first before metal panels. What do you think? Hot and cold weather. Looks like these is what you did.
Thanks for watching. Just that 1/2” insulation makes a huge difference in the heat transfer through the roof so far this summer. Make sure to leave an air gap between the insulation and the metal roofing. I put my purlins on top of the insulation.
@LancoAmish That was very quick thank you sir. That's what I was thinking about doing exactly what you said. But I'm also thinking about running PVC pipe between the pearling's for solar water heater, what do you think? Hot water pvc pipe solar water heater. Back into 20 gal. Water heater? Thanks for your wisdom Paul Reid East Texas
@@LancoAmish Thank you for the great details in your videos. Please do you mind sharing what product you use for your insulation, building a 23 x 10 shed and am at the underlayment stage, before the purlin and metal roof, not sure of the best underlayment/ insulation that will keep heat out? It’s extremely hot here in Texas during summer. Thanks!
Any suggestions for how to make the sharp edges of cut metal roofing (particularly along the eaves) less dangerous and smooth? Is there some kind of tape to wrap over the edge or something?
