Watching this video really scared me. Recently purchased a '65 Buick Skylark, 300 V-8. Don't know any of its history. The car originally came with the Turbine 300 2 speed auto; the previous owner replaced it with a 700R. I thought that was a good upgrade. Maybe not? When I first drove this car, it shifted like it had a real powerful shift kit installed with real hard shifts. Sort of liked it. Had to replace the carb and after the install, it now shifts like a normal car. Goes smoothly through all of the gears and into overdrive without an issue. I know I must have altered the TV cable and settings or something. Would that have caused the change? Drove it around for about 25 miles. I never do a WOT. It seems O.K. . Am I O.K.? By the way, have a '66 Buick Electra with the Turbo 400 w/switch pitch; I love it and when you put it in Drive, it's there with a positive, instant, commanding, "You are in Gear" right now, feeling. Love it. I think it was the best automatic ever! Thanks for the video. Any suggestions? JIM
That was interesting...I've got an R4 in a 1938 Chevy behind a 304ci EFI Holden V8 here in OZ and it took a bit of fiddling to get that TV cable just right like you said and defiantly not a trans for high output engines but they're great for a cruiser...Good stuff mate.👍
I must admit, i was somewhat intimated when it came to the 700R4 transmission, the horror stories i've heard and read about because of the misadjustment of the TV cable, they werent very nice. Three years ago, i bought a running '79 2dr malibu that alread had a 700R4('91) installed, a ZZ4 crate engine and 3.73posi out back. Keep in mind that i drove the car for 30miles to bring it home, and it ran great, i decided to change the fluids all around as soon as i got it, when it came to the transmission, i pulled the pan, installed a brand new GM tv cable, and installed the holley 700r4 throttle/tv cable geometry brackets on the holley 770sa carb. I worked alone, so i used a remote camera to see what i was doing in real time, doing exactly what you were showing in this video, transmission side, having zero experience or any help, spending hours online reading through forums and watching YT videos on how to adjust the cable. Drawing on my own conclusions with a greater understanding and using common sense, i made sure to start off with setting the cable on the tight side to keep the pressure high. It shifted harshly for a bit, as i drove the car lightly around the neighborhood, i just kept adjusting the cable till it felt just right and 4th gear(OD) would hit exactly at 45mph while on the access/feeder road, and im happy to report, that same transmission is still going strong 3yrs later.
common sense is all most of this is. I cant get why most cant take a step back and consider taking some extra visual steps like you have. congratulations on doing it right!
We don't want A computer and that's why we use 700R4 . How about when they stop making your 89 Corvette engine computer and the used ones don't work usually ? . Your still young keep on living and see if they are still making the computer for your car when you are old. I have 3 such vehicle's and the computer is not being made for any of them today, 2 have carborators now and The turbo car I am hoping to find one but have not found anything yet after a few years. I put Caps in the computer so it would start. My Formula 350 went 400, 000 Miles with the original 700 R4. I just rebuilt it and The clutches still looked like new, surprised me. I'm tired of listening to you. Bye !
It cost to tune the damn computers now whereas I can just adjust the jets and carb and everything free with a flathead or whatever size you need...no 50 or 150 hp tuner cost. If the mechanics is right it last a long time. That electrical crap fails at random but the upside is that you can scan the codes
😂 I have an 89 c4. I just bought a remanufactured (by a marine) 7165 computer and there’s a guy named Brian at TunedPerformance that’s able to handle the prom chips our cars have (89 is a 1yr only tune). It’s generally 1-200 for a remanned computer and 300 for a prom.
My 700R4 was rebuilt twice and because of that I think its made it a pain to adjust properly. It shifts hard and likes to shift back and forth when I'm cruising at 40mph. I've discovered on my own that adjusting the TV cable without pulling the pan off can be a crapshoot. I wish i would've seen this video first before I messed with anything.
Awesome Video I have 88 Silverado 1500 series Rebuilt the lower half of the engine. 280,000 miles purrs like a kitten still. Sticker price New $17,000. I needed to adjust the transmission shifts hard in 2nd if you punch it. Thanks for the help‼️🤠
Phone number 888-744-6542 or visit www.performabuilt.com to order. TV cable link to Summit racing www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-200037?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiJSeBhCCARIsAHnAzT-pWfIr0TlvbDOV3OexUJ2ujRKHhQrYN5P_SRc_o71tKz0wIeawUAoaAguyEALw_wcB
I remember when my dad bought our project truck (it’s mine always has been) we were sitting outside messing with it and pulled the tv cable out… ALL THE WAY took out out on the street, and it damn near pulled the tires off the ground shifting out shit if it had traction it would but it would spin from 45 rolls so ofc there was no traction at low speeds
Late to the party, Went to the custom one from summit from a stocker. Pan is off and this gave me exactly what I needed. Will probably need to rebuild the tans soon but now I know for the new unit it’ll be right.
Saved me trashing a 700r4 with an aftermarket TV cable bracket. Saw the vid and pulled the pan to check travel and was horrified with the over 1/4" of free play between the crank arm and piston.
Very informative. I had my 700r4 rebuilt by a very long standing and reputable trans shop. I HATE the way it shifts and started kicking myself for dropping all of this $. Lately it’s been shifting into 4th at 4000rpms while under full throttle. It got me thinking that maybe the tv cable has misaligned a bit, and now seeing this video I’m sure that’s what it is. Now to grow the balls to drop the pan on a freshly built trans.
I have a 1988 GMC stock k1500 tpi engine all stock I'm replacing the 700 r4 with a stock salvage yard replacement 700 r4 is the tv cable adjustment the same take pan off full throttle seated let off touching flush like in the video it's a 305 engine
700R4 WORKS REALLY FINE IN MY TRUCK, I CHANGED THE TBI FOR CARB,JUST MAKE AN INTELIGENT AJUSTMENT FOR TV CABLE, MANY PEOPLE IS LOOKING THIS TRANSMITIONS FOR THEIR OLD CARS SIMPLY AND RELIABLE MECHANIC SYSTEM.. 😎😎
Outstandingly Well Explained, you are spot on I took pan off(a pain in the balls) and did like you showed us. That has never shifted so well in 5 years I've had it. Thank you dude
I should have watched this first before I filled up my transmission. my truck is running fine shifts okay,but I would like to fine tune the TV cable. I was thinking to adjust the TV this way but I wasn't sure if it was the right way to adjust,but thanks man you have just confirmed my way of thinking to adjust.
I’d love to put a 4l60 in my Chevelle, but i chose a 2004r because of several factors. It fits the car without cutting the floor, it has a mechanical speedometer drive, it’s the same front to back dimensions as a th350 which is already in the car, so I won’t need a new driveshaft, and it takes the same 27 spline yolk as the th350. I have LS swapped the car and am using a Holley Terminator X ems. To get the X max ecu that does transmission control, it’s another 1250 plus whatever the harness costs. Oh yeah and the cost of the 4l60e. It’s a no brainer. I appreciate the procedure of adjusting the TV cable, I’m definitely gonna do it with the pan off
Just learning on the fly with my 83 Chevy K20 build. This video might have just saved my 700 from me fucking it up. I’ll definitely be dropping the pan to adjust the TV cable properly. Thanks man
Some of us aren’t soft like that and if my hot rod doesn’t shift and snap my neck something is wrong. Over 25 yrs same 700r4 snapping my neck, I have broken nothing. Build to last and you won’t break shit
I agree! When you have 200hp neck snapping shifts are definitely a little fun but certainly not for traction or real performance. I love a good neck snap sometimes too but never in any of my 4 digit vehicles.
I had a 700r4 in a IROC-Z behind a 305 and it was a tough trans. it didnt shift like a 350 when you kicked it down it would rev real high and when it shifted it would bark the tires, same way from a stand still when it shifted you better have the wheels straight or you were going side ways liked to have lost it a couple of times. Loved that car wish I still had it.
Damn thought I was going to watch a vid on TV cable adjustment, and half the vid is this guy tell me how the r4 sucks and 4Lslippy is the greatest Trans in the world witch its not it sucks 4l80 is much better
Either that or shes just worn out. 40 yrs old doesnt mean its in new shape inside at all. Reverse is a default gear and should just be solid and there. Shift cable could be stretched or improperly set as well.
Well, I am a boomer and was around when the 700 first came out and was a 30,000 mile trans only and I'm talking to the mile. 95% of what you said is true But there are work arounds that make the 700 a very acceptable trans for more than mild performance use especially when you consider for a 4L60 (nothing wrong with them) your looking at $2800 for the trans (with tougher internals), $500 for a converter and another $500 for a stand alone controller plus tax. Rules of thumb are, change the oil and filter every 30,000 miles, run a big axillary cooler and then there's that TV cable. I run a 700 in my chopped '68 C10 with a cammed 5.3LS with long tubes and a Fitech Ultimate FI system. Wanna help a guy out ? Publish the correct geometry for the cable hook up to the to the throttle shaft. That's invaluable information you can't find everywhere. 7 years ago I built my truck and set up my 700 and 55,000mi later it's still going strong with 396 wheel hp running through it. Along with the adjustment procedure you outlined I then drilled through the mounting cap, passed the cable through and installed a small spring and a cable lock on the loose end so I know I'm getting full throttle (100% on the TPS) when and if the TV valve bottoms out. Sure, it's not as smooth as a modern trans but it will chirp the drag radials when it shifts at WOT and has stood up to many, many 1/4 mile passes in the very low 12's. (Truth be told I will probably replace it with a 4L80 after it caves but it doesn't seem like it will be anytime soon.)
We take the 700 to 900hp but theres many better options because at power above 4 to 500 most people want exactness and the 700 just cannot be adjusted exactly like most want and expect. And chirping tires isnt performance.. its just harder shifts than nessescary that wear the components faster than shifts for actual traction and performance
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I would never put 500+hp through a 700, there are limits but IMHO for the average guy with 350-450hp on tap in his street rod it's not bad and works as long as you understand that. I put one in a '72 Buick Special convertible with a Chevy 454 for my daughter many years ago. She doesn't beat on it and it's still doing fine, shifts smooth and cruise's like a charm at 70mph+, 1900rpm at over 20mpg.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I don't have a HD stator shaft, wide band or hardened sun gear shell that I feel would be needed for a 700 to live at those power levels not to mention a dual disk converter and most of the upgrades in the 4L60. For that cost and the fact that I have room for the 4L80 that will stand up to that power level at a fraction of the cost the 80 would be a better choice IMHO considering I'm thinking of hanging a single turbo on it eventually. I would pull my 700 and save it for a another project and do the 4L80 swap and still be money ahead.
Just seen this video, thank you. I have a 84 vette all stock and having problems with it shifting out of first, I changed the governor but still nothing. I will be pulling the pan and putting the summit racing cable on. Thank you so much, I have been fighting with this not shifting for months.
No need to drop the pan it bolts on the pass side trans and the cable hooks onto the tv valve and idc what he says in this video YOU can FEEL the arm touch or "hit" the valve
I did that adjustment and it was way off. I had to pull the cable out a bit more to where it was pushing on the plunger more in order to make it shift properly
Then you have a governor afjustment needed or an improper build in general inside the trans. Tightening it up on the plunger is a bandaid and not a real solution. You will fail shortly
I Have a 91 Cadillac Brougham, with the 4L 60 transmission, 68k on it, but slips completely in D and 3 could it be that TV cable or is this a rebuild situation??
You have a rebuild situation. Problems werent adressed in your 700 for 3rd gear if it slips that soon or cable was misadjusted all along. Cable is all pressure
Ryan, great video man! Found your video looking for "knowledge" on TV cable install/adjustment on my 700r4. Think you got me pretty well lined out lined out. Thanks! ("Take the fucking pan off!") Love it...
Perfectly explained, mine is for weekend cruising, i have a holley 650 , holley have a bracket for putting the cable in the exact location and i adjust the cable with the pan off and watch the cable stop and tough points, as you have just said as i was making this comment
Good video man that's how I was taught to adjust the 200r4 you have to take the fucken pan off and have a buddy sucks but it's the only way to make sure you get the all the slop out of the cable
Yesss!!! Your 100% on this!! I used to build the 2004r and have 1 video on it but damn that things even worse to adjust with the gov in the pan. I have an 85 buick GN and went 4l60 because of that.
General Motors - Holden used the mechanical 4L60 behind the 1988 VN Commodore with the Buick V6 and Holden V8 EFI engines. This was carried through to 1993 when the 4L60 gave way to the 4L60E. ECOTEC V6 replaced the Buick and the Holden V6 gained sequential injection. They worked OK. GM-H also used a temperature sensor on the TCC apply circuit. Yep, they were rough but they can work OK if you tune the TV with an oil pressure gauge. Sonnax do some nice work in the TV area. But your right tuning the govenor can be fun.
I just appreciate the time you guys take to put these videos together with clear explanations. Just Excellent! Please keep it up. @@PerformaBuiltTransmissions
Question, after following these steps, 1rst gear shifts late at Wide open throttle. I slightly adjusted the TV cable at the “ratchet adjustment “ but still didn’t notice a change. Could this be governor issue related or should I give the TV cable a tad bit more slack at ratchet adjustment? Thanks!
Shift points are all governor. Tv is pressure. Tv should be what is is in this video under all circumstances and builds. Governor you will have to adjust
So my issue is there isn't any other place to put pin on my throttle body. So the fulcrum is too great, and it bottoms out the TV cable before it gets to the end. The only thing I could think of was using some springs so the cable would begin pulling when I give it fuel, and the more it pulls the harder it pulls against the spring. Eventually it is at full pull at the end of the stroke.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions No, it bottoms out too soon. It's at 100 percent tps. The spring compresses to relieve the pressure on the tv cable. Only way it would work
What if we’re trying to build that truck that would survive an EMP or lightning strike. In my hands and experience biological things thrive, mechanical things fair but electronics meet Jesus.
Old stuff still has few electronics and batteries. I have a 1952 carbed truck with a 700 and its not bullet proof free of electronics like people think. Mechanical trans still have switches.
Hi Ryan. I've got a few questions. I've got an 89 Chevy K2500 with the 350 and 700R4 Trans. I want to convert it to a carb setup from TBI. I know all about needing to adjust the TV Cable correctly. But what about the TPS. Do I use it on the Carb or not. I've seen all the videos on you tube about the conversions but no one say's anything about having to use the TPS. Also. some of the 88-91 K2500 Trucks had the Turbo 400 in them. i would prefer that instead of the 700R4. Now, a little backround on me. I'm 67, retired Automotive and Aeronautical Mechanical Engineer after more than 50+ years at it. So I'm not stupid. When it came to these new electronic transmissions I steered clear. Besides I'm retired. So I chose not to mess with them. I leave that to you younger guy's with all the right tools, experience, and not so busted up body to deal with it. Trust me, get to my age after that long working on Aircraft and Automobiles it tends to be painful. So what's your thought's on this subject. Swap in a T400 or rebuild the 700R4 to handle the extra abuse. I think you know my answer. I could care less about comfort. I'm a Boomer. I wasn't built for comfort. I was built for speed.
I have seen all of these problems before i started rebuilding 4l60's in around '01 i have put these in many of restomods and hot rods from a 37 olds f37 running a stovebolt 250 with dual carbs and a s10 posi to a 87 monte ss with a bbc my secret to perfect shifts is my 1992 gm factory 4l60 master book AKA 4l60 bible everything i do is pressure based. down to rpm throttle position = shift point the 700r4 82-86 had a stronger forward low but failed from not supplying the 3-4 circuit proper fluid pressure 87-93 4l60 were for the most part good with proper service but with like 2 minor mods you can supply oil to the sprag in 1st 2nd 3ed making for a good strong towing unit i like these trans for really basic builds no thrills just works and unless its more than 300 bhp mines shift fairly smooth. ps i also put allot of time and effort into calculating the correct tire size gear ratio for the weight of the vehicle and matching the t/c to cam and engine specs.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I did a all out drive line for my best friend 08 sierra 5.3 4l60e it got every thing but the input and out put shafts and input drum but I did everything else that 2.84 is amazing with the engine mods its like driving a 4l80e
There is a skip function if you werent aware and i did that because everyone seems to forget with larger powerplants it is a limited trans with a govenor that will not work with any boost well nomatter what. Constant pressure is not a solution ever either as that breaks parts and reduces traction. Trying to save people with big power a headache and some money is all.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissionswas just joking around. all my vehicles prior to this had a turbo 350 or 400; so the r4 is a nice upgrade in my book even if its a bit finicky. the video was extremely informative and i appreciated it. I will be dropping the pan on mine to get the TV adjustment right (time to do fluid and filter anyhow) on a side note, i keep hearing how fast this tranny will burn up with improper adjustment on that TV cable. mine was entirely disconnected for longer than i care to admit because i simply didnt have the time/money to figure out the proper geometry/bracket. but it seems to have survived. i was driving around like a grandma for the most part but still seems like i got lucky?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions was just joking about how they are a a pain to adjust properly and won't compare to a more modern trans in some ways no matter what. The information was very helpful to me who already has the transmission behind one of the lowest factory HP rated small blocks. I'll be dropping the pan soon to do my fluid/filter and ill be sure to adjust it like you showed here. Thank you
Just received my 700r4 for my typhoon today and putting it in. So glad you posted this video and honestly if it wasn’t such a rare truck I would have just had you guys build me another 4l60e. But with that said what governor do you guys put In the stage 2?
Gms hi output V8 but you will def have to adjust if any changes were made to the vehicle. I dont mean for it to be scary, its just most people dont even try to understand.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you, I've watched lots of vids and this was by far the most in depth and well put together video covering the 700r4 TV cable and it's proper adjustment. I mean, the best by far! Also, thanks for the link, I was about to grab the incorrect cable and thankfully thought to check the comments.
Geez! I didn’t come here for a dissertation on transees, I came here for the details on SETTING the TV cable! Holy crap though! I sure am glad I landed on THIS video! AWESOME explanation of crap I had no clue about. ThaNKs!!!!!!!
No problem. I understand its long but it has to be that way because how is anyone going to understand what they are doing if they dont understand why they are doing it.
Problem with retrofitting a 4l60e is cost.. You need a controller and they are not cheap! Ya ya I get it computers make it for stupid made people shit to work. But 700r4 adjusting is like woman. I would rather have her a little tight than loose when it comes to adjustment!
Why dont you just take the pan off and do it correctly. I agree a little tight is better than too loose but its still wrong. Also controllers are roughly 450 for a us shift
I’ve taken my suburban to tranny shop only for them to Mickey rig it. I bought a book how to rebuild it myself. What type of clutch plate pack do you recommend and am having hard time finding a govenor. I just want it stock. It’s 2 wd r1500. 1989. Thanks
Clutches dont matter as much as people think, more fluid managment but if i had to pick id go with alto, and its difficult to find 700 parts as time goes on.
Bro i appreciate this video you made, For the past week i been trying to figure out why my 1st gear shifts into 2nd at high rpms, then from 2nd to 3rd I have to go past 45mph for it to switch gears, and 4th gear no luck.. I've tried replacing the TPS sensor, trans filter and still same. TV cable didn't even come to mind until i ran into your video, I'll be replacing mine for sure. Trans rebuild is obviously my last resort. Thanks again bro!
So once you make this adjustment that is it? Where it shifts is where it shifts? You can not “fine tune” for earlier or later shifts it has to stay right where it is?
Real fine tuning the correct way, true shift adjustment only comes from adjusting the governor weights and valve inside. The TV cable is pressure only. "fine tuning the TV cable" is pure laziness from "professionals" of day gone by... having the tv cable off in any way will either cause the engine to not quite reach wot or the trans to not have correct pressure in any range which is the definition of incorrect tv cable adjustment. The 700 and many autos have a bad name due to many myths from the past and sadly i still see it in the present. Making methods up like this over the years to cover up shoddy builds and lack of knowledge. If you fine tune the cable tighter... you will have quick shifting, cable stretching, no true wot, and it will 100% fail sooner than it should. Loosen the cable off the valve like most and it will simply burn up like so many have.
I watched your video after fighting with a TV cable for some time. I got a 71 chevelle in my shop that doesn't like to shift until 3500-4000 rpm 1-2 and 2-3 at less than 1/4 throttle. I obviously need to pull the pan and get the tv cable set properly, but you said the governor is what controls the shift points? So I need a lighter governor to make it shift earlier?
My advice for gov adjustment is buy the governor kit from summit or jegs and install the weights and springs per that kit. Its just easier. Finding the right governor can be a pain
Great Video ! Regarding the TV Cable you mentioned at Summit, any chance you have the brand or part number, as I can't seem to find anything like it for $40 most are well over $100, so not sure which one your talking about. Thanks !
Might have gone up or been discontinued. It was the only one available on summit at the time. A simple steel braided adjustable cable will do. Just not oem plastic
So I have a constant pressure 700r4. It’s new. My problem is that is shifts from 1-2@15 mph and 2-3@20 mph and 3-4@ 30 mph. My trans guy recommended the constant pressure but he said If it shifts through all the gears to quickly that I could adjust that some with the TV cable…..we’ll I’ve moved it quite a bit and I can’t get it to change at all. I did notice I barely go to my passing gear at full throttle. Am I still to loose on the cable?
The tv cable doesnt even need to be there if you have a constant pressure. Constant pressure makes it do nothing at all. And you cant adjust shift points through a tv cable anyway, only pressure. Shifts come from the governor at the rear and you will have to adjust it there on both constant and non constant builds. I dont have alot of faith in your trans guy lol
I have a 91 Cadillac Brougham with the 4L 60 transmission slips in Drive badly it has 68k miles on it, could ut be the TV cable or is this a likely rebuild...
I have a 700R4 in my 70 Camaro with a 500hp/500ftlb 383 stoker with 3.73 gears and 26" tires and 2400 stall converter for the cam. Im on my 2nd transmission in under1000 miles and I think this one is going bad too. Had a performance shop build and install the 2nd on and it seemed ok at first but now the shifts are total garbage. It shifts way too early and they are very soft. I have the TV cable with the splitshot and allen nut. I will try to tighten up the cable as it has probably loosened up.
What bolt rear end is on that thing?, that sounds sick, I’m throwing a stroker in a 87 Firebird, with this trans and I don’t think my rear could handle that. I’m trying to tune the power down as much as possible 😂
My 700r4 started shifting bad a few months ago. It always shifted a little softer than I like but it was fine. Then one morning I went to school and it was shifting like it had a sledgehammer shifting into 2nd and a 16 oz hammer shifting into 3rd. But once it’s warmed up it shifts super early and extremely soft shifts. And it doesn’t matter if the transmission is cold or warmed up if you go wot it shifts super early and super soft and I mean like 2500 rpm shifts at wot and now it won’t downshift on it own. I just adjusted the tv cable because it was a little loose but there’s really no difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated
TRATA DE AJUSTAR EL CABLE TV Y/Ó QUE ÉSTE EN BUENAS CONDICIONES, ANTES DE GASTAR DINERO PUEDE SER QUE SE HAYA SALIDO DE SU RANGO DE AJUSTE A MI ME PASO LO MISMO CUANDO CAMBIE EL TBI POR CARBURADOR PATEABA AL HACER LOS CAMBIOS, HOY NI SE SIENTEN..
Hell I would like to go to a 60e in my S10 but don’t want to have to add another computer and then add another TPS to my sniper, which I believe they make a TPS that has and extra OP wired in just for TCU control. I’m running a mildly built sbc with a holley sniper stealth but running it as blow through with a torqstorm centrifugal supercharger. Makes decent power, seeing 10psi at 6850 rpm and running a 700r4. Trans was built like 13 years ago lol so I’m sure it has an old shift kit and like a Z pak 3/4 clutch. TV cable adjustment made a big difference and also the SST super hold billet 2/4 servo. Trans shifts fairly harsh but I like it. I wish the 3/4 was as harsh as the 1/2 or 2/3 lol. It’s just a play toy and I always shift it manually with running a ratchet shifter. It’s getting time to upgrade as I’m sure the 3/4 won’t hold mid 500hp so I just don’t beat on it in 3 or 4. All your videos of the 60e has me leaning possibly that way other than having to get a TCU. I’d still like to have a manual valve body though. Is that possible with the 60e?
And yes a manual VB is possible if your going manual VB you will have to have a good 18 to 20hg of manifold vaccum because you will need to use a modulator in place of the epc or you could use an epc and tune for full manual.
Unfortunately the extension is the best way and can be reused, we make our own and do the same. The only other option is cutting notches about a half inch each in the pickup sump of a expensive corvette filter every single time. They are roughly 20 dollars a peice. I dont really recommend this method
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions But there are some vehicles that came with a deep pan that probably have a longer pick-up tube but I don't know what vehicles they are so that I can order a filter for that vehicle.
I have my 700r4 cable on got it adjusted so it's barely touching but when it's full throttle the thing doesn't go in all the way should I run it or mount it somewhere else? I'm just scared the geometry will be different I don't know if this affects it?
Did you ever get this figured out? I'm dealing with the same thing and I have both correct brackets up top and a new TV cable adjusted it with pan off and full throttle doesn't provide a full sweep bottomed out plunger in the pan?
Question, can the spring in the valve collapse? I just put an Edelbrock carb and intake on my 86 and I did it like you showed, dropped the pan and had my wife work the pedal. After it shifted harsh but it seems mine didn't stick out as far as the one in the video before it got spring resistance. I backed it off a few clicks at a time and it didn't shift hard after a couple adjustments, but something is still not right.
10-4, I'm going to go and take it to the transmission guy in town and have him check it out, although the fulcrum may not be right also there was way to little movement in my actual valve compared to the ones I've found on here. Better safe than sorry at this point I guess.
Wrong 110% properly built pressures should be static in minimum 60 to 80 psi and wot 180 to 220 psi. Doing it your way would limit throttle travel to the tv or carb or slack the throttle valve. Dont spread misinformation and cater to laziness.. take the pan off and verify you have it correct. There is no inbetween
It sounds to me you either screwed up a few 700r4's or you can't build them. I agree they are finicky. But once you got one dialed in I would prefer the 700r4 over that 60 any day of the week. I don't have enough fingers and toes to count how many times the 60 has let me down. I agree neither are good for race applications but the 700r4 is better for a street/strip applications. The 60 is good for a boat a anchor. But hey you have your reason I have mine.
The problem is the function.. today too many people build for 700 plus whp and want it to shift at 6500+ rpm consistently and it just cant do that... its physically impossible unless you build it for constant pressure full manual which is very likely to breaks parts because of constant pressure all the time. Built them sucessfully for many years and still do but i refuse to let someone beleive they can out perform a 4L60E on the dragstrip or track... its just a fact in operation.
@PerformaBuiltTransmissions you right about that. That aren't good for the track or race applications. I'm pushing around 700 plus horse power and it's not cheap to build one strong enough to hold that kind of power. If you abuse it everytime you get into your ride then you will be breaking out the Ole pocket book. The 700r4 and the 4l60E are pretty much the same thing it's just 700r4 shift from pressure and the 4l60E shift from a computer. Call me old fashioned but in my opinion the pressure shift is better. There are to many things that can disable the electric shift. To be honest I understand where you are coming from. I'm not trying to start a pissing match with you. You obviously see more transmissions then I do.. I don't do transmissions unless it's pulling it out or putting it in. I dont turn wtenches like i used to either. The eternals are left up to people like you guys. I've just been let down from the E shift to many times and had good luck with pressure shifting. But if I were to want to start racing my rod I would go to a 4l80E because it a 5 speed..
How do you really feel? I picked up a 54 3100 with a fresh 350 and 700r4 I just wanna get it on the road and drivable. Hoping your info helps me dial in my TV cable.
