I have a question. What it is it that I do wrong when im doing vertical uphill. I got a 7018-1 rod 2mm I think. And 80amps and its runny like water. Its still runny at 60amps. I dont get it. Welding electrode positive on 6mm carbon steel plate.
Absolutely love these "basic skills" videos! Thanks for not assuming such knowledge is known by all. There are plenty of us "newbs" out here who really appreciate your excellent, clear instructions.
Kirk if your really interested follow it up its really fulfilling even just as a hobby but can make u serious cash too but u gotta start at d bottom get a cheap welder and a 4inch angle grinder n a hardware shop good luck dude every one n Ireland can weld even d women
You mention that these electrodes have a graphite tip that makes striking off easier, but then you don't really show striking off a brand new electrode. You just cut to an already established arc shot. I'd love to see a comparison between these and other 7018 electrodes, which don't have the graphite tip.
@Wroger Wroger I don't understand your comment. Of course restarts are often done with partial rods, but they're also quite often done with brand new rods. He also went to the trouble to mention the easy starting, why not also demonstrate? 5 seconds is all it would take.
@Wroger Wroger I see your point. Besides, a re-start, or any start, is more something you feel than you see. There would be no visual difference between any lohy rod taking off. If conditions aren't right, or not enough amps, they get grabby. Hard to see that.
Just started stick welding in college this week. Had a hell of a day restarting my electrodes today. That little flick is something I def gotta try. Appreciate all the info in all these videos.
I started welding almost 30 years ago. Nor as a profession but as a hobby. I have however welded for a short period as a profession. I learned as a ironworker apprentice. They are supposed to be some of the best short of pipe fitters. That said, I learn somthing from every vid that I watch. Keep showing the rookies how to do it because you are showing some old dogs some new tricks as well. Love the vids guys
Many times when i was fabricating things i use to tackweld using 6013 rods then weld to finish with 7018,but sometimes i don't have 6013 available and i use the same 7018 rods to tack aswell,bit difficult but manageable if just before tacking,break the exces flux tip with the fingers wearing glove,it will break enough to expose the core rod,then release the rod from the electrode carrier clamp and scrape it against the workpiece or something hard to get to the shiny metal,then get it back to the clamp and make the tack using close support by hand to ignite and burn shortly enough to make a tack,if needed,break the flux tip again and reinforce the tack by re-ignite the arc next to the tack without touching the tack if the piece you attack is quite heavy or tend to move,if not,reach with the weld untill the first tack is covered,but in essence,tacking with 7018 made me practice the restarts mid-weld,if you cannot tack with 7018,it will be harder to learn to re-ignite mid-weld,nice tip dude,valuable lessons free for everybody !!! ^^
Congratulations to Jason T. I love my rod oven, even slightly damp 7018 runs noticeable different. I worked at a shop next to the San Francisco Bay and the rod in the oven was awful. Turns out the ovens power was on a timer so at night the power was shut off to save " energy ". The oven cooled and contracted then sucked moist fog laden air in ! Replaced the rod / removed the timer and 7018 issues gone. Water expands 1860 times when vaporized by the welding arc as well as the introduction of hydrogen into the weld puddle. Note: 6010 NEEDS THE FACTORY MOISTURE AND SHOULD NEVER BE PLACED IN A ROD OVEN. Stay safe all....
Hello Sir, my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head with bevel single v butt joint. the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again. that is for my undergraduate thesis Hopefully you can help me out Thank You Sir
Hello Sir, my Name is Haiqal from Indonesia would you like to make video that explain how to do reweld / repair welding on a steel plate using stick welding down head. the first weld we assume that is had a defect so need to grind it till the fill/hot pass layer, and then we weld there again. that is for my undergraduate thesis Hopefully you can help me out Thank You Sir
Still in training, ALL of this is awesome for me, because I'm just about ready to take my first certification, and I'll be doing it with 7018! Keep up the great work!
Iv been welding for 35 yrs and I'm still learning great video guys all those tips like flicking the rod while it's still liquid to lose the excess for a good restart great tips and tricks I just bought my first welding table today so cant wait to try out those tips 😎
I guess I am old school I bang the half spent rod on the table ( get a small flash ) and restart oh well it works but I think I can upgrade to Jason's whip out and restart, well maybe, but I will try ,maybe okay , I will try it.
I did that many times but sometime the flux coat can chip out more than needed and the arc will start by throwing melted steel balls sideways,away from the spot you really want that arc to strike...
Mark Lowry check your travel angle. Keep it about 10-15°. If you’re straight up and down it can snuff out the arc. Also, turn up your arc force a bit if you have it as an option.
You can get quite a few starts and stops from one welding rod. practice, practice, practice and be VERY critical of your results. Filing the end of a rod... ?.... An old welders trick...pinching off the balled end of the rod with a pair of pliers works a lot faster and just as good. Use pliers with good sharp (file like) teeth.
There’s things you can do with 7018 that they say you can’t do. I actually passed my 3g certification on 1” plate doing nothing but weave beads. In 1997
THANKS for the video. I can't even get a brand new 7018 3/32 rod to start (without a LOT of difficulty) on 110A DCEP on a nice 220 volt machine. No problem with any other stick. Gotta practice more.
Again guys do not get hung up on his amperage. I run avg 10amps lower than most ppl but still pass bend tests cause my speed. So again look at puddle and yeah starts n stops ARE CRITICAL with 7018 tests so practice practice. My last 3g test i couldnt even see my root restarts i was pretty proud
I've been welding for years and comment this is so well thought-out, speaks of huge experience and guides on a basic which is one of the most important things in all reality
I. Wouuld like to see same s.tarts and stops but on pipe diifferent m materials if that would matter as im learning to be able to do many different types of pipe and stuff on our large drum at work would like to produce stainless moonshine still parts as well so different material will mainly be tig on that but mig or arc on the stuff at work. Also i have a large beard and wonder what your favorite beard saver stuff is for wrlding. Like snap on bear aprons or what. Im new but just got a ssimder 10 in one on order to practice more at home and do farm projects ive always just had friends come weld shit for 10+ years so itll take me a while to get good i know
This isn’t useful for me. I just started my welding classes & we can’t do this. I don’t think we’re allowed to be throwing hot glowing lava balls around in a room full of people lol
All my restarts are humped up after i go back to tie into the divot. Ive been having trouble with the tie ins trying for my 3g smaw cert. Even flat im having trouble with the tie in and the weld being too high where im restarting.
Really appreciate the basics! I'm just learning and having to take night classes that are full. We're sharing stations and don't get a lot of seat time. Every little bit helps!
Flicking the rod is all well and good unless you are working in a space like a hospital and say you already habe a reputation for starting accidental fires at work. 🤣
Great tip about filing the bit of slag off the tip to get a good arc start. I figured that out just recently and it's nice to know that it's not just for amateurs like me. I started using the serrated back of the welding pliers, but a file would be a lot better at doing that. Thanks!
NOT WHERE I WORKED: If you start chucking your rods and they are not down to the nubs you would hear it from the boss. And rightfully so, just because you aren't paying for the rod that does not give you an excuse to be wasteful. Remember: If your boss sees you are trying to save him money that's more money he can give to you. This goes for everything not just rods. I knew a guy who thought it was cool to light up his torch and use it to light his cigarettes. The second time he did his after being told to get himself a zippo he was in the unemployment line. He was the first one to be let go when things got tight and work was slow.
If you weld to code as soon as your rod sticks it is trash. If you run a rod and you stop, the rest of that rod is trash. Never reuse a rod when doing code work. If you are at home, use it down to the nub.
Swampy because you are not trained as a professional. When you start an arc or stick you may leave porosity. Slag inclusion. Or when you stick the rod you might damage the flux and on a restart you can get an erratic arc leaving a trail you might have not wanted. Or it might just finish breaking off a piece and again introducing porosity. It makes perfect sense once you are well informed. Don’t take it from me I am not a teacher just a welder with certs and by following what I was thought I was Abel to pass tests.
Swampy I worked with companies that want you to burn it all the way to the nub. That is the goal the company has and the goal the welder should have as well. However, if you stick it it’s done. Take a weld test In front of an inspector and try restarting that rod that just stuck. All they will do is stop you there and say you don’t need to proceed. Now if I was building something at home I would throw away half used rods. Those then become tacking rods.
Swampy see that’s the thing. Someone does understand why and that’s why that procedure is in place. This is why you also shouldn’t just pick up any rod off the welding table and start welding. Trial and error has already been done so we don’t have to.
What if you don’t want to whip out and leave a crater, but instead you get to the end and want a good thick bead, instead of getting to the end and it overheating/wanting to burn out
Tommy T yes, I’ve done quite a bit with these rods. I’ve never been a fan of the Atom Arc (just personal preference) I’ve been an Excalibur fan for years, these new rods from ESAB run just as good as the Excalibur but arc initiation is excellent. The graphite tip seems to help a lot on start up.
@@theaussie7160 otherwise,that means your electrode clamp will last longer,but one thing to keep in mind,never allow the cord (cable) to rub against the inner handle tube edge,it will erode the cord insulation then will make more room to rupture the cord on the connector,just stuff some rags there and secure them with some insulating tape firmly and plenty not including the handle,just wrap the rag and tape it then slide until fits snug into the handle tube then tape strongly to the cord,and you're done,do it well and forget about any issues later regarding that,btw,best connections if you solder the multifillament core before tight up into the holder,it it assure best contact and less heat will cause,prolonging the lifespan of the cords and the attachments.
I have so much trouble welding overhead. I don't know if i'm going too slow.or what but my weld pool tends to get really saggy and there were times it would actually drop right off the material i'm welding and it gets aggravating as hell when it happens.
@@GodslilRedneck23 Hi Jason. I always try tomkeep.my arc tight. Sometimes I keep it so tight that I actually end up sticking my electrode in my weld pool. lol I think my curse is that ,As Bob aaid in one of his videos, ( The older I get, I get the high spead shimmy's. Then I end up shaking my electrode right into the weld pool. Plus the material that I'm welding really isn't the ideal condition as well as the positions I have to be in. I do try to brace myself whenever I can but there are a lot of times the position I may be in won't allow me too. The other thing too is that I may even have my temp set wrong too. I'm using an old Miller engine driven welder that only has dials and can be hard for me to judge the amperage settings. I do keep trying though. lol
Christopher McMichael check your angle too. If you’re straight up and down, the weld pool can extinguish your arc. Keep a 10-15° travel angle. Try bumping up the amps too. If you’re on an engine drive you’re probably running long sections of lead. You’ll have about a 5 amp drop per 50’ of cable you’re running so adjust accordingly.
@@GodslilRedneck23 Thanks Jaaon. I'll experiment with the amperage settings more. The Miller Bob Cat doesn't show amperage like some of the higher end engine drives. It has the dials for example : 50-100, 70-150, and then a fine tuning dial numbered 0 to 10. The fine tuning dial is the one that confuses me a little bit.
any tips for 7018s like the weldwell Ph77s, majority of caddys I deal with only have a 60-63 OCV which makes dealing with the 77s (7018) a sod even thou alot of the weld procedures here use 77s, most caddys here more suited to 16TCs(7016s) 50 OCV... very few caddys I come across have a 70 OCV to assist that arc distance ... actually only one brand ive found that likes the 7018(PH77s) here miller.... prob is we have stratas and XA (both good caddies but lack the OCV)
Sorry if I missed it In the video but how much amp are you using and do you use a different amp on root passes? I’m just taking a welding class in school right now so just trying to get some tips
With my 7018 overhead I struggle with the slag/puddle dipping into my rod n sticking it or disrupting the arc. When I get going I can go smooth but usually the first inch is a mess, any pointers?
Very well done. I’ve been welding for quite a while but always can learn new ways. One thing I have found is that, by working by myself so much, sometimes bad habits can creep into my process for I don’t know why. I find myself doing weird things all of a sudden-probably from lack of practice in a certain position or rod type. Something like your video is a good way to refresh basic skills. Thanks a lot for improving my style.
@@GodslilRedneck23 he meant that the heat is rising away from the horizontal weld, not that the weld was going up. I normally drop some amps for vertical welding though, as the heat is going in the direction of my travel
Hello! I’m in a welding class atm and we’re building our own tables. What’s the item called that you’re using for overhead welding? I’d like to just buy it instead of making it ourselves. I’m looking for an item that I can use to hold the steel up. Love your videos!
On that vertical weld are you concerned with the bead being concave? Got any tips for getting the metal to lay in there flat or convex? Thank you. Also are you running constant current or constant voltage?
So I'm wondering how some people can keep such a steep angle? When I was doing 2f I was taught to be almost flat with my rod on the first pass to avoid undercut. Is it more about where the rod is in the joint?
Excellent video Jason. Glad to see it. This is usually one of the first hurdles to overcome with my new students/Apprentices. Maybe one day you can do a video with us at the hall??? See ya bro.
i just bought a cheap mini inverter stick welder from princess auto, its the same as harbor freight but in canada.. bout it to lean how to stick weld and i tell ya, its not nearly as easy as you guys make it look lol. you guys have got skill. its only been a few days of practicing but getting the arc started is by far my biggest issue. but you guys have giving me insight on things and im glad i found this channel. im gonna keep practicing tho hope i get it
Good vid I usually back track a little more sometimes just a tad slow , to be on the safe side , it’s not hard to get porosity in those starts/tie ends , and if you are in tight spots , in a hurry , doing lots of x-ray , last thing you want to see is a glob of pin holes in that tie end , also seen times to where there was a tiny bit of porosity on a tie end , hit it with a grinder and it turned out to be more than what you would had thought , also burning large electrodes, you really have back track them a good bit I’ve noticed they seem to want to leave porosity on them tie ends , Those pinholes come from the rod not being fully covered by the flux on the rod , basically burning bare unexposed rod Also sometimes starting electrodes the end may crumble or break off a little, so than means you have to back track longer before you make that tie end , so it’s clean
