7024 Weld break test 

"I can't afford mistakes..." "Mistakes were made!" Name checks out lol. I love your chanel. Thank you for all of the testing you do. And thank you for not hiding your mistakes. They are how we all learn. Keep doing what you're doing.

One major thing I learned from your channel is that all rods are not created equal. Much to learn about welding. Thank you for all you do.

7:00....wow, amazing the shrinkage of that coupon [Kooopun in Minnesota According to Ron White].... .I lived in Cleveland one winter, and had Shrinkage problems like that.....but not while welding....

Hi Greg. I recently discovered your channel, and subscribed. Thanks for showing all your weld testing and for all the detailed comments you make about the results. Watching and reading what you have posted on the videos is like a combination of a textbook and real world experience -- very informational. My goal is to watch every video you have on this channel and read every post where you explain your process and testing. I'm sure, as your subscribers increase, you won't be able to devote as much time to answering, so I want to learn as much as I can from what you have done so far. Keep up the good work! 👍

yippee, the 7024 test on a rainy Sunday night....thanks Greg....

I like what your testing is showing. I’m a firm believer in 7018. I’ve used 7014 however if I’m looking for absolute strength I’m using 7018’s. I’m finding that there difference in rod manufacture and rods from other countries are not of the best quality or standard of AWS. Thanks for time and effort of doing these test.

This series has been fantastic/very educational.....& I'm *really* looking forward to your dualshield revisit- Also makes me wonder how 8010 would perform-? Also; a huge thanks for these videos, and for your generosity in helping us get to test 7024's. I plan to let each of my boys burn one, so that they can learn as well-

Hey Greg I picked up a couple boxes of 7016 welding rods, I'd love to see you testing these. They're low hydrogen, they'll work on +- & AC and are described as Double coated low hydrogen suitable for medium tensile & carbon manganese steels. Love the videos. Thanks 🙏🏻👍🏻

Great video. Somehow I feel bad for breaking such a nice weld.

Jet rods have titania and that's why they run so good on AC. I prefer 7018 AC if I want a strong and beautiful weld. 7018 AC is also cheaper in my current residence.

Thanks for taking the time to do these tests Greg, learning so much from this series.

Awesome work mate. ❤ keep it up.

That last coupon was a bit strange. It went up to 6.25 (+/-) tons while you were stressing it and then it started dropping while you were still testing failing at around four tons. This would normally mean it had failed at the top number. I am guessing that since there was no visible sign at six tons it must have failed internally in the weld. Might also explain why there was such a marked release when it broke? On another topic I thought of today while welding. It might be beneficial to do a head gear comparison. In all the years I have been welding I have never had a helmet that kept the hood up for more than one or two lifts before it started to droop on its own. Tighten the nuts and it would do the same. I have had Jackson, Lincoln, and various cheap as well as mid range helmets. Every one has done the same. I have had different models within the lines with no improvement. Although I have not gone to the five hundred and above models, I wouldn't think that should be necessary to just get a functioning helmet. I would be interested to know if others are having the same experience. It pisses me off to no end when your hands are full and you are walking in the shop to have the hood drop halfway down your face! By the way have you tried one of the pneumatic valves on your press? I switched my twenty ton and my forty ton jacks to using them and have found them useful especially because you can feather them very effectively. Thanks again for a very interesting video. Doug

7024 note, Horizontal fillets and flat......50% iron powder in flux......7014 is 30% iron powder.....hope this helps.....Paul

Recently I've been looking for 7024 rods from local providers and found a couple of interesting rods that I may be able to get my hands on. One of them is ESAB Femax 33.80, and another one is not 7024 but 7028 ESAB Femax 38.65. If anyone had any experience with these rods, I'd like to know your opinion.

Referring back to your video of Hydrogen Bubbles from hydrogen entrainment - would there be any benefit in placing these coupons you have Bent into a mineral oil bath (I think that was the fluid used in the Bubble video), one at a time, and seeing if that can give any indication hydrogen embrittlement from the filler material aka welding Rod/wire especially along the failure surfaces? Given Blue Demon does not publish actual test specs of their 7024 rod, and your recent issues with what seems to be a bad roll of Dual Shield Flux Core, if there isn’t something “fishy” going on with their products i.e. the metal in the rod being of a blend of recycled metals aka scrap. I’ve heard both good and bad things about some of their products, not to cast disparaging remarks on Blue Demon’s products, just a thought. Im also wondering if other brand rods like Lincoln or Matheson’s brand would have the same results as the Blue Demon? So perhaps some testing between brands may be worth investigating. We all want the things we weld to stick together and stay stuck together, and it’s not a big deal if your build is not of a critical nature, but then again, sometimes it is important that the welds be as strong as possible, not that we are doing Code Work, but we certainly wouldn’t want a critical weld to fail and possibly cause injury or accident, and I think that is the point and basis of all your testing. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to do the testing and sharing what you’ve learned; I’m sure it will make a critical difference to someone someday, you never know, but better safe than sorry…

Greg, you can get 7028 rods which have the same designation as 7018 I would thing if you got some of those they would test the same as 7018. You have to use the same brand of rods rather than different one. I prefer Lincon or air liquide rods for most everything. Blue Demon are good but not as good . Select Arc as pretty good . I have not run 7024 Esab.

Yea first comment and second one to like this video!!! I love all your other break tests so I'm sure I'll love this one. 7024 gets hella penetration so it should be well blended in

If you want a 6013 that's as cool as 7024, then get the ESAB version. As cool and it's all-position. Some people wonder why most countries use 6013 everyday instead of 7024. Many foreign structures have yet to fail.

Mr. Greg.... my understanding of the flux on 7014, 7024 and 6013 is they are the same Rutile with Potassium...the difference is the 30% and 50% iron powder added to the 7014 and 7024 respectively for better deposition rates.... 6013 was developed I have read as a low penetration rod for sheet metal, so it seems the 7014/7024 would be similar as far as penetration....... what do you think? best wishes , Paul

Have you tested the difference between 7018 kept in an oven and 7018 that has been left in the open for a 'while'?

Very interresting! Do you have access to 7016 rods? The are quite common here and a test would be very interresting too for me.

Is it the 2nd catastrophic failure in this series? Nice! 👍 But one thing got me puzzled though, with 7018 pressure was ALWAYS below 4 metric tons and coupon were like pretzel at the end, now we are almost at 6(!) metric tons and plates themselves are not that distorted. If these tests are repeatable and comparable shouldn’t the vertical part/plate of T be more distorted? Are pressure gauge readings relevant to these break tests?

Did you post that link to the hydrogen embrittlement video? I would definitely be interested.

Greg, I have a round plate like yours that is 30 inch diameter and 1 inch thick. The plate has been sitting outside for many years and is rusty with some light pitting. I want to clean it up to look like your plate. I've tried different grinding and sanding wheels to get to the shiny metal underneath but the progress is slow. I tried some phosphoric acid too. It turns black and creates its own filmy surface. What do you recommend to expedite the progress. I want it cleaned up for use as my welding table.

my good memeory was a good freind over in SU or soviet union was i was welding a old tank plate on some ones car for a bumper and my freind comes over and that blyat spareys wd-40 into the arc and a small explsion happens blowing me on to ,y ass hahahah😂 the i got up and pumched em and said ass hole then imwhent back to welding poor customer did nt know what to pay he said impay you more for the acdent i said nahh comrade normal price thhe. he said you need to go to the hosepital and i looked and said nah

seeing that red paint on the coupon, looks like you are out of steel stock......

I think you traveled a bit too fast... if the powder makes the weld bead a little larger, and you said it turned out about the same size as 7018... shouldn't it be bigger? Again, slower. You should try spray mig. You talk about gasless flux core but never mention _what_ wire you ran.