#74 Kubota B2601 Compact Tractor BECO Box Blade LandPride RB1672 Rear Blade Grading. outdoor channel 

Thanks for taking me on your journey. Really enjoy learning with you.

GP- even watching the older videos, you have a smooth and clear dialogue and the music selection is complimentary.

Awesome job GP. You're absolutely right about the crown in the middle of the road. I grew up on a farm about a mile off the paved highway, used to tell friends and school mates our driveway was a mile long. You definitely need a crown and a ditch to carry the water run off away from your road. Good job buddy.

Your videos are like being at the tractor spa... Some good footage with some very relaxing music. :) Good stuff as usual!

GP I enjoy all of your videos. Your format is right on. Talk a little and explain things at the beginning. Then just some peaceful music that's not to loud so I can still here the tractor working. Very entertaining and relaxing. I'm saving towards a B2301. Hopefully next summer I'll be able to purchase it. Until then, I'll just keep enjoying your videos.

Nice to see another video! Even if you already did some video about gravel spreading or the like, we still enjoy seeing new ones. After all, we are all tractor enthusiasts! There is many ways I read below that are good. Main thing to remember here is the fact that your rear wheels will dictate the working level of your implements, especially the FEL. You want your rear wheels to roll on the proper angled surface. But yet, you have to create it first. That is where the angled blade is handy. Instead of pushing the dirt away (toward forest), I suggest to pull it toward your driveway. You will gradually run on angle (right wheel roll down in the ditch, left wheel rolls up on newly pushed dirt crown). Then when your ditch is done, you can use your FEL to remove the dirt you pulled on your driveway. You may not want to mix dirt with gravel. So you may first (of all) use the blade and grade the top/loose valuable gravel toward opposite side of the driveway. Then, when you are done, you can spread it back. And as you can see, it makes more seat time!!! Cheers!

Hello again from Montana......A landplane is a combination of a box blade and rear blade sort of and is exactly what you need for that application. I do this for a living and own those other implements as well. It is extremely easy to use.....set your settings drop and go. You don't have to "fly" the three point hitch lever much at all. The side rails hold your grade and average out the cut as you go. A one pass affair in many instances and does a beautiful job. Be sure to get one with scarifying teeth for breaking up ruts, potholes, and washboarding. Then pull them up and finish grade. Costs about the same as a box scraper. You won't be disappointed. I use the box scraper and blade for rough grading and the land plane for finish grading. Most of the time you don't need the box scraper. I like your videos.

Looks like you've gotten a lot of hints and tips. Only thing I would share is that on the hills of my gravel road, I always scrape running uphill. Over time the rain will wash the gravel down, so I start at the bottom and pull it back up the hill.

When digging your ditch, I suggest the cutting point be at as step an angle as possible use both the tilt of the blade and tilt of the lower lift arms. Also put that point closest to your rear tire.this will drag the dirt up out of the ditch. Use your bucket to move it elsewhere if needed. By putting the point in line with your rear tire, you ditch will dig where your tire goes. Make your digging angle as aggressive as your tractor will pull.

Nice video as usual, but enough of the flashing lights already.😂

ud be a great school teacher

Good to watch another video GP! Try using the FEL to "chip" away the ditch, digging a little at a time and pushing it up towards the tree line. Once you have a ditch started, you can finish it with rear blade. I used this method to install drainage pipe (the ditch had to be much deeper) and it worked out pretty well. The only drawback is that it took a little longer to finish the project. Hope that helps!

Good work with the box blade. I think the ditch will be fine. As long as you knocked down the high areas and made an angle away from the road the water will do the rest and cut its own ditch. thanks for the videos

Did good with the box. Make sure you scarifying to boot me of ruts or potholes it will may your roadbed more uniform and last longer. On the open blade ditching; Make the lower part of the blade closest to the tractor and tip the blade one hole more aggressive. Then run the ditch.

Hi GP, You have plenty of great advice from your fantastic community, so I'm not going to rehash what you already know. I'm just glad to see another video! I was getting worried! Peace.

Use the bucket as a scoop to ruff in the ditch. It will take a little more time that way but with it ruffed in then take your angle blade to finish it off. Good job and keep up the good work.

I enjoy all your videos , you do a great job . There are some very good comments as well to give us all new ideas. I noticed you back dragging with your bucket which I do many times also . Another way is to use your back blade turned backwards if it is heavy enough , that way you can level things out without digging in and you can also set at an angle which you can't do with your bucket . I do that with a light snow on my gravel drive too when there isn't enough to use the blower so I don't dig it all up before the drive has a chance to freeze . Keep up the great work you have wonderful place .

Very satisfying. I wish I had some grading work to do right about now. I don’t know what you were in, looked like medium from the video, but if you can, make sure to do this kind of work in low. It’s a lot easier on your transmission than medium even is, and, I’m not positive, but you might even be able to pull past some of those rocks you got stuck on with the box blade. Rear blade worked pretty well. I think for the runoff channel you’re probably better off dropping one outside scarifier very low on the box blade and running along it with that, or digging down with the loader. It’ll take the longest, but the loader will do the best job. I don’t think your rear blade is going to do you much good for trench digging when it’s that far out from the side of the tractor. It has more leverage on the tractor and the three point hitch than the tractor and three point hitch has on IT. Make sure to watch your three point arms when you’re doing that kind of work with your blade too. I know I know, they’re 3/4” or 1” thick hardened steel bars but they still bend, and when they do they can be a pretty penny to replace. Great video, great camera angles and great edits. Just the kind of thing I like to wake up to. Cheers!

After I fix the driveway I drive over it with my truck as it's twice as heavy as the tractor and help pack the stone. Looks like the driveway was just dry enough to work it. Nice job

I know it’s already been mentioned but a grader is the easiest and best way imo to maintain a gravel driveway. I enjoyed your video.

Nicely done, GP. Man that was some nice rich looking dirt along side the drive way. I hope the run off works well. Thumbs up.

First try right? Then not to bad, some more practice and some tips from all these guys. You'll be a PRO in no time GP! Thanks for the vid and have a great weekend!!!

you may want to tilt the box blade and shorten up one check chain to deal with the lack of ditches on sides of road .the box blade has a bit more ass to it

When you are cutting the ditch try using the box blade at the most angle you can get it will remove material rather than pushing it into the bank

GP just angle your blade more vertically. And change the trailing edge of the blade to where the soil exits That way it cuts into virgin soil without fighting the pile your making Right now you have trailing edge with soil exit direction so the blade won’t cut in as much Great video as always!

They work equally well in dirt. A lot of landscapers use them. Nothing works as well or as fast as a land plane to flatten out a grade.....Dan

Might start using the loader to get a step ahead of the blade. Also, using the box scraper with some tilt from the rear lift arms and 1 or 2 rippers engaged shallowly to get through the hard pack. Lengthen the top link til the both blades are flat. OR CAREFULLY use the rear blade of the box scraper (going in reverse) to dig a ditch. NOTE: The rear blade (of box scraper) will dig quick, so may have to work lift arms so you don't dig deep holes. (I have done this with my tractor & box blade)

I think I would have angled my blade more to the right and got rid of the vegetation and then went back with the right side of the blade dropped much more then the left side and made more of a V shaped ditch. After that I would have bladed the road. Just my opinion. I do admit that I have always bladed gravel roads with a Road Grader with a 12 foot blade and could complete the job in 7 passes including a ditch on both sides of the road. Much easier than a little tractor. Good Luck

You might want to try less blade engagement with more trailing angle with the cut close in to the rear tire of the tractor. I have found this works well for me on small equipment with limited power. In the video you had a lot of blade engagement but not much angle and your equipment does not have the weight or the power for that. Hope this is helpful good luck and thanks for the videos.

G P good job nice bed hope I can learn how use my blade God Bless PaK

Nice video, I would use the bucket side to side and take out about 6 inches, then go over it with a york rake. Your only looking for a low spot for the water to travel. Thats my 2 cents.

I like your videos, I’m sure it’s been said but land levelers work so much better than box blades on gravel driveways. I have a 1000ft (no idea in meters haha) driveway and its night and day difference between using the 2

GP good video you will learn . the blade is not angel wel .

Rough the ditch in with your bucket and finish it with the blade.

Always nice to watch you take on new tasks. Between your videos and the comments, I learn a thing, or two. I suspected you might fi d you needed to pull the box blade down such a steep hill. I assume you tilted the box blade to the left when blading the left side of the drive?

Try shifting your blade to the left. Keep the same angle, but the end of the blade engaging the ground should be the shorter end( the end not sticking a foot outside of your tire. Then you’ll need to tip it more aggressively toward the ground your trying to ditch. It did seem like their were some boulders that may give you trouble, you know what to do about those.

You may need a plow and/or backhoe to install ditches

You may need to put a ditch on both sides of the road to prevent ruts in the road.

One of my subs sent me over, nice channel. I love that land pride blade...I like how it off sets. Mine doesn't do that. So who makes that BECO equipment or more precisely, where is made?

Many ways to skin a cat GP. I have used both the blade and the box blade over the years to work on ditches....practice makes perfect. Do you have a rear remote on your tractor? I finally picked up a cylinder at Princess Auto and made a hydraulic top link which comes in very handy when using the box blade to adjust how aggressive the cut is without having to get off the tractor to do it.

Haa Haa,,,,, I find stumps that way also!

Need to get a land plane or others call it a land leveler it work perfect for your driveway!!

Have you ever thought of getting a roller and roll your drive to compact the drive tighter.

Your big hill isn't 45 degrees, more like 15-20 degrees at most. Good video playing with your blades though.

With ruts in those areas get aggressive with your box blade teeth. Otherwise you may be doing little more than raking gravel into the rut to be knocked out.

Would tamping the driveway help with the washouts?

Just thought of a video that will show you the how to, Daveknowshow "how to use a rear blade to cut a ditch"

GP, What size Finnish stone did you cover the drive with? I have to rework and top cover my drive in the spring.

is your position stop knob (for the 3 point) a pain like mine is .....hard to adjust and always slips

What does one like this cost?

blade is angled the wrong way for creating a ditch.

You need to go slower - measure the vertical links to be same length on the first cut to remove ruts - then put the crown in the road, but go slower.