I have been tied up with working on the rest of the basement so I have not been making any update videos on the tank. I will try to do so in the next few days to keep you guys updated. It has been up and running for a few months now, and doing great. Videos to follow.
Overkill is smart with huge tanks.. Looking good. With my 1210g system I had 18 pt 4x4s in 2x6 crossbraces on 1" plywood on floor. I had 3 layers 1" plywood on stand total.. 1 layer for stand and 2 layers for aquarium floor. I also like glass sides to look longways ..
Interesting, i will be starting soon with my 665 gallon wood aquarium which will be almost the same weight. I think you've built the aquarium base strong enough, the weight will be well distributed by the wooden plate. Your ideas with the additional reinforcements, i will also implement so. Looks really great your fish tank 👌✌️
I would definitely add the supports on the 25 inch gap you mentioned for ease of mind, especially since the tank will be built into a wall. Two things I want to add when leak testing a tank you want to fill the water more than two thirds of the way up because only then, the pressure comes into play. The amount of water you put in won't do much. I have seen numerous plywood tanks that leak on the bottom seam, but when you drop the water level under that two thirds line it stops, so fill it up and leave it for a week or two and then you'll know. The second thing I want to mention is that you shouldn't have raw unwaterproofed wood in direct contact with the concrete floors, the moisture will collect there and root the wood.
Water was only filled up as much as you see in the video to allow me to get in the tank to place the rocks which I am doing right now, then will fill it up. For the bottom of the stand, I applied a few coats of sealer on the wood to protect against water/moisture. There will also be a dehumidifier placed in the room behind the tank to cover any moisture issues 👍
If you water proof the stand and the wood some how gets wet lets say from the floor area it will take forever to completely dry out and will begin to rot. If the stand gets really wet get the water up as best as possible them run a good size dehumidifier and fans to dry out the wood as quickly as possible. My wood stand which is the same size as yours is up on high compression shims as well as steel shims. I personally don't like the idea of wood directly in contact with concrete floors. Compressed air is great for removing water between the wood and concrete.
is there no video for the front and top? i cant seem to find it, only because i am planning on building to the same dimensions and would be amazing to see
I have been busy finishing the rest of the basement off and planning to do a good in-depth video when I’m done. I will try to get a video out by next week. I will be certain to go over everything and how I built it
Tank has been up and running for 4 months now. The rock only makes contact with the bottom piece of plywood. The weight of the rock is distributed by a weight dispersing plastic honeycomb board. The bottom of the tank is two 3/4” sheets of plywood glued together and over engineered/overkill 2x6 boards running front to back and supported by 4x4’s.
@@Jetblink619 Good job covering all the bases and a great build! I'm going to be building a plywood aquarium , it will be 98" long 4' front to back and 39" high. Everything will be bouble 3/4" Baltic type Birch from Indonesia. I will find out this Wednesday how many plys are in the sheet and the grade. I'm debating on farming out the tank for fiberglassing then I will sand and paint it with Pond Shield. Your tank is awesome!
Actually the opposite. The 20k lights are very blue in color, white with a strong blue hue. They are up and running on the tank now, will make a vid on them separately.
@@Jetblink619 actually the Kelvin scale goes from 1000 to 10,000. The floodlights you are using are closer to the 2800k spectrum, white/yellowish. I suggest 5000k to 6500k. Those are more white/blueish. Best for live plants if you plan to use them.