Another tip, always put your thinner in before you put your paint in. Learned this one from Vince V. This makes it so there isnt a risk of paint running down the needle before you get a chance to mix in the cup. Helps prevent clogs from forming because you know the only paint running through is paint that has been thinned. Worst case, a little thinner goes through first which wont contribute to clogs. Im also a big fan of Badgers Regdab needle juice. Every once in a while oil the airbrush inside and out and it will help keep it clean and prevent clogs from forming. Love the idea of pulling the needle through the front though, will have to try that out. Been having issues with my H&S Chameleon getting paint into the gun, so this will likely help fix that.
The needle idea is a good one, and the thinner before paint idea is one I'll have to try. I usually put in flow improver, then paint and then thinner; I'll have to see how the other way around works for me.
@@MaskedRiderChris I would think flow improver or thinner first probably won't make a huge difference. My thinner mix has some flow improver in it anyways, but give it a go and see if it makes any difference. Really the big thing is just putting something other than paint in first.
What @Some-Guy said. I use a CO2 source for my model work, and a small handheld USB rechargable compressor for my figure painting, and both sources, my hoses, and all four of my airbrushes (different uses and media) have QR adapters. Makes cleaning brushes and swapping air sources easy.
Airbrush can still launch off even with a quick release. Or at least it did with mine. Was getting ready to clean mine a few weeks ago did the pull back with the quick release, but wasn't holding on to the gun for whatever reason, and it launch off my house and almost dropped it.
@@LylaMev i like both ways Quick releases and screwing on hose. I tend to airbrush close to me as i have arthritis in shoulders and the extra length of the quick release can get in the way. Screw on hose much easer to use near body, but i use the light type hose as in H&S do or Iwata black hose,less weight and more flexible. and i have two hoses, one with quick release and the other screw on. screw on for the main airbrush.
I discovered your youtube channel a couple weeks ago and am just starting miniature painting coming over from almost 6 decades of building plastic models (ya, I'm probably old enough to be your gandpa.) Overall I have enjoyed your videos and have learned a few things. As a spray gun and airbrush user since the 1960's , I have a few problems with some of your recommendations: 1. The needle should Only be removed through the rear and then only to clean or replace the needle. Your airbrush (or spray gun) should be cleaned and empty of all paint and cleaning fluid. Many of the airbrushes have screw in nozzles that Should Never Be Removed unless absolutely necessary as they are very easy to cross thread or break off at the threads and can be very hard to get to seal properly giving you more problems. In #6 guess what, this problem is caused because you are disassembling the airbrush, breaking the factory seals and when you reassemble it have air leaks most likely between the nozzle and body (see my #1 above.) Put a small amount of Bee's Wax on the threads of the parts and on the outside of the rear of a drop in nozzle to fix this problem. You can get a nice easy to apply tube of Bee's wax in the Iwata cleaning kit which I highly recommend any airbrusher to get. Get your self a QD or quick connect hose adapter. You'll wonder why you never did before. Bonus tip, Never Ever mix your paint in the airbrush cup-no mater Whos says to do so. Just invites clogging and inconsistent mixing. Mix your airbrush paint in a small, cheap cup and poor int the airbrush cup.
I have a bottle with a 50/50 alcohol/water mix that I run through mine when I'm done and cleaning is really quick with a qtip. I never have to take my nozzle off. I also use a retarder medium along with thinner when mixing and never get dry tip. Honestly I can't recommend Marco Frisone s airbrushing videos enough. I was having a lot of trouble before I watched those and truly haven't had an issue since. Hope this helps some of you all.
That would be a 1:1 ratio not 50/50. Equal parts is always 1:1, 5 parts paint to 5 parts thinner is a 1 to 1 ratio. 1part paint to 1/2 (50%) parts thinner would actually equate to 2:1 ratio. It's just easier to calculate the ratio rather than percentages and is more accurate to reproduce and explain.
@animalyze7120 Sure, but I think we can assume that most people understand what I meant. It's not a strict recipe. Water down some ipa to clean your airbrush. You're right though, ratios are a superior form of reference. I'll try to remember that moving forward. Thanks
You don't have to move the trigger back forward slowly, you can "slam it" forward if you want, as long as you keep the air on you'll be fine as it will blow off any residue on the needle tip (which is what causes that little spurt of paint as you let the air flow again).
I like to use the cosmetic wedges for closing the front to blow back into the cup to mix and clean. They are also helpful for cleaning the tip and adsorbing any extra splatter when I get distracted and lubing various things around my hobby space.
I’d just like to add. What Layla got there in the part where she talks about pulling the needle is a self cantering airbrush which is a different kind of seal and can for the most part be disassembled from the front and reassembled without much problem. On the other end is the classic airbrush nozzle which has the tiny screw on tip. That is quite different and it is not recommended to disassemble the front unless absolutely necessary as they’re adding a small Teflon seal on the thread. This gets worn away every time the tip is screwed off and on. After about two to three disassemblies and reassemblies is completely worn off and needs replacement- hence the backdraft, bubbles in the reservoir and eventual explosion. This airbrush should be cleaned from the back. First the reservoir needs to be cleaned with water and cleaner and when it’s only water coming through it is possible to remove the needle from the back and clean it. TLDR: Self centering tip- pull needle from the front in whichever step of the cleaning. Classic tip- pull needle through the back as a last step in cleaning.
Yep, if you have a premium brand airbrush the manufacturer will have instructions. The bottom line is cleaning the airbrush thoroughly before pulling the needle out the back and disassembling it. It's been said a million times, just don't pull a dirty needle through the airbrush for obvious reasons.
- My biggest fail was forgetting to tighten the needle chucking nut. I wish I could say this only happened once,,, - Never pulling the needle out the back made a massive difference in keeping paint out of "How tf did paint get THERE?!" - Quality quick connect air hose fittings are worth every penny! That & a few wraps of PTFE tape & all is right with the world. Bonus, it helps release any twist that may be in the hose. - Same thing for an airbrush stand. Best one I've found is one I 3D printed & hot glued to my spray booth. Solid, cheap, quick print, easy to to use (even with a MAC valve near the nozzle), fits all of my brushes, etc. - Beeswax may be the best thread sealer ever! Especially between the body & nozzle cap. Quick swipe around the threads & a solid seal every time. - A paint filter / strainer is priceless (but cheap) insurance for removing tiiiiiiiiny bits of "whatever" that may cause clogs. Especially when using very fine needles. When reducing or mixing paints, it will even catch little blobs of paint that may have not mixed as completely as the rest.
These are all great airbrush tips! I also like to use the quick disconnects and another tip I just figured out was put your thinner or flow improver first in the cut before paint. I used to get clogs all the time but not anymore. And for a non airbrush tip, or caution rather, never sit your silly putty down on a silicone mat. You’ll never get it all off 😬 learned that the hard way
That’s helpful stuff!!! Something I’d add to the very last part about making sure to steady your hand, don’t be afraid to use surfaces to help, and remember to steady the rest of yourself behind your hand as well! It’s so easy to focus so hard on what you’re doing with your hands and not realize how the rest of your posture and position isn’t helping us to be anchored! I’ve been making art for decades and I’ve still gotta make that part of my mental checklist while working. And everyone please remember your frequent stretching!!! Can’t make good art if your back and hands are fighting ye at it.
Great video. Solid advice on each topic. I especially like the mention of number 6. I've been airbrushing for about 5 years now and only recently contacted the manufacturer (Iwata) of a problem. Not only did they provide me with solid advice on their gun but they also have a repair system that works amazingly. Ship it off, give it a week or so, comes back like new.
Good video. I'm still new to airbrushing and your videos help a lot. I got the H&S Infinity Kyiv edition and haven't used it yet. Been using my Evolution AL. They have an Infinity Giraldez special edition designed specifically for painting miniatures. Has 3 different sized sketching caps you can use to guage your distance with and the front end is shorter. You can only use a 2ml cup on it since the cup is so much closer to the trigger. As a beginner, one of the things that made airbrushing tremendously easier for me was mixing my paint in a cup and pouring it into the airbrush. It allowed me to understand the correct consistency of the paint as I was learning. I kept getting clogs and my paint was never mixed well enough mixing it directly in the airbrush.
ok, I will say you have some amazing points but one stood out to me, the "dry tip" one. (for context, I have traditional training with airbrushes and spray guns in an automotive setting and am certified to operate these tools with hazardous automotive paint) you actually don't want to fully release the trigger AT ALL. there should always be air coming out of your nozzle as you are using it not only to prevent the paint from pooling on the needle, but to give you slightly more control and stability. I don't know why, but holding the first stage of the trigger as you work just...works? also I'm stealing the blue tack on the trigger thing shown at 5:08, that's GENIOUS and should have been in the video!
I have watched so so many airbrush videos from professionals over the years as background noise when I work, and this video really had good points and suggestions that I haven't heard in places elsewhere! We were obviously taught to use the airbrush the same way, so I have bad habits to unlearn myself (such as vigorous circles, I have been working on unlearning that for a year now) but I wanted to thank you for these tips!
Great video, good to fess up to issues with airbrushes, everyday is a school day✌️✌️💜🤗🤕😊😊 I always remove the needle forward and out of the front - it's a double edged sword though with the new H&S needles and the bumps on the end🤔🤔 Worst issue? I've been airbrushing on and off since the 1970s. A few months back I needed to use a specific colour of red paint, could only get it as a common or garden acrylic. Thinned it perfectly, decided to use my fire hose, Paasche H with it, as it's so robust etc, easy clean up. I did some priming and basecoating etc, all well and good, all straight from the bottle, flawless. Getting tired, but thought 'I'll just blat on that red acrylic'. Dumb move! It clogged everything up, it almost congealed (moderate room temperature, air from compressor likewise). I spent over an hour picking bits out of the Paasche H (usually only requires a 5 minute clean up). Larger paint particles, temperature, wrong thinning ratio, chemical reaction? I've still no clue, never happened before! I've purchased some - similar red (not quite right) from Vallejo Air range, I won't be going off piste with the original paint again. I miss using enamels tbh.
I had a problem with bubbling in the cup with my Iwata Eclipse and a new nozzle and needle cured that. Maybe some of the problem was caused by removing the needle from the back. Thanks to you that'll be a thing of the past. Great looking cat you have, a real sweetheart.
This is exactly the video I needed.. and it’s nice that you reminded us of being overwhelmed sometimes is ok cause that’s where everyone starts I like how you explain things and how you get to the point without skipping over things that are important 👌 +1 sub happy to have found your videos 🫶🏻
The timing with the Trigger and air flow was my biggest hurdle and once conquered I was able to spend more time painting and less time troubleshooting clogs. It takes time and does not fix itself right away but you will see progress quickly!
Thanks for the video. I didn't even know the needle can come out the front. Pretty new to airbrushing. Got a good one on one session with my airbrush last night where I was forced to disassemble the entire thing, the paint backed up into the entire inside, past the trigger and right in to the back where the screw to tighten the needle down is. Yikes. Subscribed!
Thanks Lyla for the tips ! On the Badger,you have no choice to remove from the back the needle ,because of a big sphere at the bottom of the needle.. And please Always,ALWAYS after each work session,made empty the air in the tank of the compressor,until air become water and rust and destroy your tank compressor !
Get some quick connects and swapping air brushes or breaking down for clean up is just that much easier. It's a cheap quality of life increase. Also allows for swivel. Idk if anyone else has that issue but before with the screw type my hose was binding up. Also with dry tip and splatter I just taught myself to never let up on the air and when you do start away from the piece. You gave the best advice there is for that situation.
I have the SAME issue with my H&S 2 in 1, from the very first spray out of the box. I bought it about 2 months ago. I always found I have to tighten the nozzle by what feels like 1/128th of an inch past finger tight to get it to stop that air leak, maybe a replacement seal is my best bet.
@@LylaMev Having the same issue with my H&S (6 months old) and the blowback depending on how I reassemble it as well, appreciate you sharing that it could simply just be a dodgy seal.
Bonus tip 1; quick release adaptors. Bonus tip 2; use hot water when cleaning the airbrush Bonus tip 3; use an inline moisture trap on the quick release to create a more comfortable handle for long sessions
@@temux86 All the cheap plastic moisture traps I've had are all crap and leak, so I would steer away from those. I've heard the sparmax silver bullet one is ok though. I use a medium sized hyundai compressor and bought a more industrial regulator with moisture trap to feed my lines, so have removed other traps. As for using a moisture trap as a grip aid, I don't think it's worth much. For one the trap is about 2 inches down from the body of the air brush anyway, and gripping down there is not going to be good for much. Most professional airbrush artists hold the brush more like you would chopsticks, with the brush resting on a mostly extended middle finger (not curled around the inlet area) and the thumb just lightly pinching it. I'd recomend getting an actual silicone grip if you just want the moisture trap to be a grip aid, as those sit on the actual body of the brush where you actually should be holding it
The water tip is a really good one, but I would like to augment it by saying to use the thinner/cleaner intended for the paint you plan on using. I do a lot of military aircraft and autos (like cars and motorcycles), and one of my go-to's is Alclad II, which happens to be a lacquer, so water would be a huge no-no.
My biggest tip is to actually start off with a mid-range model. I've seen too many people start off with either a crappy $10 airbrush with a cheap $25 compressor and get frustrated with faulty equipment or rushing out and getting a $100+ airbrush and ruining it. Get a solid 30 to 50 buck airbrush (I prefer the masterairbrush g233, repair parts are very cheap at about 10 bucks if you buy generic). If you want to a decent compressor (I hate those box compressors) it will run you about $100. But if you are serious about using an airbrush get a compressor with a tank, its about 30 to 60 dollars more but the consistancy of air pressure is worth it (not to mention it will be quieter while you are using up the tank's reserve). An air brush booth is nice, but not needed. You can get the same effect if you get a large cardboard box and get a cheap filter (the blue airbrush filter foam works). Cut a hole out for the filter and put a big square fan (you know the type) for the exhaust. Aim it towards a window and you can very safely airbrush in doors. Bonus tip: GET A QUICK DISCONNECT. Even if you only have one brush. It makes quickly cleaning the airbrush very easy, especially if you need to trouble shoot in the middle of a paint job.
I also can confirm the nozzle seal issue with harder & steenbeck airbrush. Also paint leaking into air channel, if seal is worn out. I saw people spray water into needle channel after removing the needle. I’m kinda too anxious to do that. 😢
Agreed entirely on 'test firing' with a bit of water through the gun before putting any paint in the cup. This has helped me avoid problems more than once.
Wow! Awesome information on airbrushing! I am new to this but I want to learn it so all the great tips you shared are more than welcomed! Thanks so much!
13 дней назад
Hi, one tip (maybe) I learned the hard way: Don't use the bubble-back technique - for me this somehow always end up with tried paint somewhere on the seal and the same "bubble" problem you described there. I got myself a set of small cheap metal cups where I premix my paints in - it's neater and I can try the color using a brush before also. I have to clean the whole front of the AB otherwise. Also if you get constantly tried paint on your tip when doing detail-work even after you turned down the PSI and did go for the "perfect" consistency of paint for it you might want to add a bit of retarder (flow improver) instead of thinner and instead of constantly pinching away the paint it might be easier to point away from you model and give it a bigger pull on the trigger so that a lot more of fresh paint goes over the tip (this will clean it to of partially dried paint).
Tip for the hose matter: Use a quick release connector. They are just a few bucks and are night and day. You can switch between guns so easily with it :)
In most airbrushes, there is a seal in place to prevent paint from going backwards through the airbrush, so pulling the needle out the back shouldn't be an issue. Some airbrushes like the Badger 105 Patriot can only pull the needle out the back due to the knob on the end. I'm sure they considered this already when designing it.
lol, I had watched some of your older videos and I was having an anurism watching you spazz the airbrush around in circles all the time. I didn't want to be that guy to comment negatively about your technique and be like learn2triggercontrol and just aim properly where you want the paint. Glad you've wised up to that. Also someone get this witch a quick release for the hose.
My worst Fail was when I over tightened the nozzle on my Iwata HP-C. Snapped that thread clean off. I’ve since moved to a H&S Evo Silverline; so much easier to disassemble and clean that it isn’t even a chore. And def Quick Release adapters FTW!
A rule I picked up on another channel is to only go finger tight. Use tools to unthread if need be, but everything seals and works well on all three airbrushes I have just finger tight.
I don't own an airbrush but I like the "using" water technique to see if your airbrush is working properly, without having to waste excessive amounts of paint.
Hey, I am not sure if someone else mentioned it already but I would like to add something to your first tip on pulling the needle out the front: that is not possible for all airbrushes. Your H&S has a nozzle that can detach easily from the front with the needle inside. However, many airbrushes, including commonly used Iwata airbrushes like mine have threaded nozzles which require you to remove the nozzle with a stamped wrench or specialized tool. So, if you were going to do that you are probably more likely to damage things than just making sure the brush is already mostly clean and then gently removing the needle. And if people tried to force their needle through the front on an Iwata... well that's a busted needle and nozzle. Hopefully they listen to your warning at the end of that tip. FWIW I have been pulling my needle out the back to periodically clean it during long sessions for ages, as have folks like Vince Venturella. I have not had an excess of paint build up in the gun/trigger area of the brush because everything is as clean as possible before removing the needle. I do not slide it back and forth etc while cleaning though. That is probably where the paint backflow into the trigger area is happening.
Airbrushing benefits alot from routine (if you do it correct!). Some things seem annoying and slow you down when starting, but the more you do it, the less you'll notice it.
The H&S nylon seals will compress over time and if the brand new airbrush has sat for any extended time, the seal will be compressed. I have swapped out the seal, fixed the problem and when it happened again, I put the old seal back in and it was fine because it had expanded back to shape. I spent 10 years pulling the needle out the back, and the trick is just have it mostly clean before you pull it to the taper. Some airbrushes this is the only option. If you are dragging paint into your seals before you get to the taper, you have bad seals and you need new ones. You should replace all the seals a lot more often than you think you should. I think both my infinity airbrushes needed new fluid nozzle seals out of the box. This is not an H&S exclusive problem. It is all airbrushes. Nice video. Good info.
@@LylaMev I was lucky. I had tossed it in a little cleaning cup and it had just sat there a few weeks. I was doing airbrush work for a living at the time. So I did a lot of hours in a week.
Get QD fittings for your hose and any/all guns you have. Use teflon tape when you assemble the fittings to the guns and the hose. No reason to be screwing the hose on and off. It is also possible to get the brush completely clean without using solvents or taking it apart every time.
this is great advice all around. I have two brand new airbrushes that I never use after I took one apart to clean and can't get the needle back in through the back. i'm going to try feeding it through the front and see if I have any better luck.
7:02 I’ve had exactly the same with this HS infinity airbrush! I’ve been quite disappointed with it as it was so expensive… thanks for this I will try this ❤️👌
My airbrush fail: Loaded the paint, put the cap on the container, pulled the trigger and now I have two blue dots on my all white kitchen ceiling (ala paint explosion) Now I know about getting a new seal I'll definitely try that :)
i nearly binned my H&S cr gun because of paint not flowing or a bubbling cup.. all that cleaning all that fuss i nearly just gave up. i don't know what i did but i fiddled with how i thin paint and gave my compressor a kick and now i slowly seem to get a sort of workflow in place that brought back my fun in airbrushing somewhat. i still don't like it but it's getting better.
Great tips. I have to pull the needle out the back of my airbrush because it does not push through forward and what I do is clean it out thoroughly as much as I can and then blow all the water out that I can before taking the airbrush apart so there's not really any paint that will pull back into the gun when I'm removing the needle.
to add to what she said here: DO NOT use abrasives to clean inside the nozzle, nozzle seat or any of the fittings, it will destroy their seal and then you will have issues with escaping air. when cleaning the nozzle tip, do not shove the needle intot he nozzle tip because you will bell the tip and it will have to be replaced unless you just fancy spattering and air in the cup. I have the same airbrush Lyla, how has yours been treating you?
Circular movement of the airbrush is a perfectly valid technique for imbuing the model with tonal variation. This is the first I've heard about that technique being used to avoid splatter etc..
I tell all my customers to never pull the needle through the rear of the brush, but always through the front, you should also insert it from the front, this stops damage to the seals and more importantly the needle. It's also a good idea to put some oil on the needle before inserting it, this helps lubricate the seals.
H&S Airbrushes: that seal is a problem, it is a good idea to spray water first as suggested, then if it bubbles back, remove head set, check that seal is in place, then screw the head set back as far as it goes but only finger tight, then unscrew by a quarter turn, then spray water again. What is happening is that the Teflon nozzle washer/seal is being crushed, this causes air not to flow out of the front of the device and this blow back forces water or paint back into the cup. Now I learned this yonks ago, I am surprised the Harder and Steenbeck did not tell you this. A Neoprene O-ring would indeed be better but the industry standard these days is Teflon which is not as forgiving.
I'm a bit obsessive and knew I wanted to get into airbrushing to level up mini painting down the road. I bought a CR .3 and a squidmar:)!, I researched a ton, )like 100hours...)including pro airbrushing/ general/all the mini utubers - you! . It was interesting to see you go through it and work back some bad habits, I can't wait to get good to pump out bigger models, just need to practice. I have painted a few squads and around 10 mini's but lots of techniques and products to get used to up front. Love your minis! , painting looks awesome, and you seem cool! Cheers! Oh something interesting, I got a Cricut to make my own stencils -- and I bought micro stencils to add texture at mini scale - there's some crazy airbrushing products/techniques that can bring mini's to life with textures, would be a cool vid. :)
I'm a complete neanderthal on the airbrush compared to you, but here's one noteworthy blunder: I painted a 1/48 scale Heinkel 111, with all the complicated masking required for its two-tone green camouflage. After taking the tape off I was super stoked with how it looked. Half an hour later when the paint had thoroughly dried it was all bland monochromatic. I had gotten confused and sprayed the same green twice.
I have never done blowbacking or pulling needles when cleaning out paint if im changing paint colors. Imho, i never really take it apart even for a clean, you dont have to if you clean properly and maintain it good. Also, my airbrush is technically never "dry" even when stored or not in use. Regardless of what every YTber say or suggest.
I will say there is a reason there is controversy with front/back needle exchanging. If your needle packing seal is set correctly, it is wiping your needle off by friction, which is the same mechanism that keeps paint from being dragged in every time you pull the needle back to allow paint to be sprayed. We literally drag the needle back countless times , after all. Once set it will put a SLIGHT drag on the needle, and for some companies/needles you will find either a groove at the back of the needle, if not a full ball. The ball makes it impossible to pull through the front (making this a moot discussion for those owners) and the grooves sometimes catch and damage the packing seal (the tension will cause it to expand...well, compress, and grip the grooves) and I have a damaged seal to prove it. Even the Harder and Steenbeck instructional video I saw recently still shows pulling out the back. I am not saying one is superior, just that there are good arguments for both and I don't think it is as simple as "right and wrong" for either method. As for bad airbrush stories... I had a couple Badgers (Krome and 20/20) that I beat to Hell during my newbie phase. I sent them in to badger and got them refreshed. They never worked right again after that LOL. It was a long process and the brushes were in bad shape, but after months of trying to get them to even be priming brushes I just couldn't do it. At one point they got filled with paint and rather than clean them I added more, tossed them in a box and let it set. They sat on a shelf as an example to my other brushes until I finally tossed them in the trash. Not my most reasonable, or mature moment, but "eff those guys." As a disclaimer, those brushes served me well, and I would be lying if I told you the owner of Badger was a bad guy. He and the rest of the CS and techs treated me very professionally. The only thing I TRULY hate about Badger is the nozzle. Anyone that has used one knows what I mean. Great video, I have around 15 years or so airbrushing and still find weird problems from time to time and I appreciate these lessons! Wait... my first airbrush was that plastic Aztec thing, from like 25 years ago... =\ Dammit, I'm old.
Thats been the trouble with videos makers using a Airbrush they not made specific to gamers ,something i see H&S are doing with a series of videos using their infinity ,the improved design airbrush.. i find even after a clean out the there is a build up of paint in the nozzle,use their nozzle cleaner, after soaking nozzle in something to soften paint.
Some airbrushes can't have the needles pulled through the front. Grex (monument hobbies is a rebrand) use metal notches to demark other needle size. Those seem to make it impossible to push all the way through.
Use quick connectors. They are a great time saver, avoid "air brush launch, and keep the threads of the airbrush in pristine condition which means no air leakage. I even have quick connectors on the hose to the air regulator. And a standard size quick connector from the air regulator to the compressor. Very quick and easy break down and no air leaks develop.
If you didn't show it on camera i don't know if i would believe that this sort of thing happens. how in the world did you manage that? i have a harder and steenbeck infinity and have NEVER had a problem with it. i'm glad that you were able to sort it out with harder and steenbeck, but seriously, how does such dramatic things keep happening to you?
To answer the question at the start, my biggest fail was with my cheap airbrush, I overtightened the nozzle and snapped it off within 2 weeks of owning it
My biggest issue with airbrushing is when I try to do smaller finer area's, the needle tends to clog up easily, causing no paint at all to come out untill I use a Qtip with some cleaner to clean up the needle before I can continue. It's really annoying when I have to do alot of smaller area's. I've tried thinning my paint more, or lowering the psi, but non of it makes a difference. It works fine when I'm spraying larger areas, or using primer to prime an entire model.
The less you touch the nozzle the better. I did mess up my first airbrush like that. In my PS 771 I unscrewed the nozzle only once and did it after a year since i bought it. Sprayed waterborn, solvents, even glue... no problems. 2 new needles though... shit happens :D Also important... adjust the sealing screw. Requires specific tools, but they are cheap
