To be honest, I would not use the chain for the bed cable. The cable possibly isn't designed for that and bends at the places it does. Same for the P1P to P1S conversion, where you need a different cable when using the cable chain.
@telefoonjoost I haven't noticed any printing issues with the cable chain I actually think it's slightly increased my Print quality because the movements more predictable for the movement cancellation
Total disaster, my friend... Ok maybe not total, but still... 2:30 cables need freedom, not restrained like that. 4:40 that spool location has its purpose - to protect the bed cables if you push the printer against the wall accidentally. 6:30 bad idea... this is Z-axis, it's not meant to be carried around by or put 1 Kg stuff on it which adds to vibrations and stability - I wouldn't trust it's rigidity and strength that much. 8:41 yeah but you need a different app to connect to your camera; and all I need to know is that my part is still printing or it fell off... no need to amuse the process. 10:13 you see that sharp kink at the starting point of the cable? this "protection" must restrict the bending radius, which is exactly the problem in A1 (not mini) they had and recalled it to fix.
I appreciate your feedback! I've had all of these on my printer for about 3 months now and haven't had any problems or noticed any increased wear. I will keep a look out and keep you updated as to how everything operates the longer these mods are installed!
That drag chain has to much "backwards" play & looks too long. Will just end up creasing the cable more. specifically try to avoid bends like the one between link 1-2.
@@jet_lea Since you answered i reread my original message. To reiterate a bit more thoughtfully. If looking from the side. The chain should not go past the end connectors. The outer stops are there to force the U rolling motion. With a worn or a chain will play it. During "extension" will cause the chain at the stationary end pieces to hinge. When retracting, with the cables mass above the moving end connector. The chain wants to rise instead. Putting a lot of load on the moving end connector and snap it over time. Well i mostly work with industrial machines the weights probably makes a lot of difference. I will stop to ramble now think im damaged from work. :D
Good prints. The only one that gives me pause is putting 2.2lbs of filament at the very top of the Z tower.. At these speeds, I can see that introducing some vibration or wobble. Possibly. I'm also a Wyze cam fan over Blink. Might have to look for a mount for those or remix this one. But definitely going to print at least half of these!
That’s a great point, i’ve printed at least 10 prints since moving the spool and no issues so far but none of them have been very tall, i’ll definitely update if i start having issues!
I've been using a similar mount for filament (though mine puts the roll on top of the Z axis and not behind it; "A1 Mini Top Spool Holder and Handle w/ cable guide" on makerworld) on my A1 mini since I got it back in february and there's no issues with vibration or wobble. I worried about that too, but it turned out to not be an issue at all.
Thank you for these great recommendations! I like all of them and will print everything but the poop deflector and bin because I found a deflector with a small integrated bin that will probably be enough for me.
Anyone else freak out at 5:50 when he grabbed the unattached handle to pick up the printer, not realizing he had cut to after the screws had been installed?
4:44 I think technically it takes up 4" in the back. There's already suppose to be some clearance in the back for the hot bed to move. Minus that distance from how far the roll extrudes, it's only 4".
@Jet L, do you know if the Blink Mini camera mount also supports the Blink Mini 2 ? Also, does the mount have an opening on the back side to allow the power cable vertical support to reattach to the back of the filiment cutter "push finger" ?
Hey, it’s the second plate under that design. there doesn’t seem to be a separate link because it’s under the same object. Let me know if that makes sense
I think this one is the best video content for Bambu A1 Mini. Thanks for your effort. 😊👏 BTW, I want to by my first 3D printer. Should I go with Bambu A1 Mini? Completely for hobby purposes. Or should I look into A1? Price difference nearly %60 in my country. Other alternatives are Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and Creality Ender3 V3 KE.
After you add the top mounted filament holder and the lil poop catcher, how wide is the printer's footprint? I'm not too limited with depth or height, but I wanna make sure that I can fit this printer on my desk with my current setup
it is approximately 12.5 inches wide with the bin. The bin adds very little to the overall width of the printer because it sits partially underneath the build plate!
I printed the box with a lid, but if I install it on my A1 mini, with the tools inside, it will make more rattling noises than the very quiet printer produces. I don't think I will be installing it.
that’s interesting, I have my bin packed full and haven’t noticed any additional noise however i have my printer in a separate room so i’m not around it all the time
what about the center of mass of the printer? i'm just afraid that mounting the spool on the top of the main tower will unbalance and - possibly - makes the printing process less accurate. btw, thanks!
Very nice video, thanks a lot! Already printed the cable clip, poop reflector and bin. Now i printed the handle and the spool relocation. But unfortunately i can't fix the grey spool holder to the handle, because the screws don't fit in the holes. I don't think there is screw thread inside the holes?
Hypothetically, yes it could. however I printed many prints with full spools located at the top before I got the ams system and noticed no changes in print quality or vibrations :)
Sadly, it didn't work for me. A combination of a slightly sharper filament entry angle and the spool rubbing the handle a little caused extruder errors with the filament I was using (Inland PLA, 1/4 to 1/3 filament remaining). Perhaps if the spool holder was a little further from the handle or an adapter made the diameter closer to the inside of the spool it would help. Also, it looks to me like the PTFE tube should ideally be longer. Mine slipped under the handle at one point and tension popped the filament guide off the handle and generated an error. I tried different placements of clips. I like the design. I'll try it again sometime with slight modifications. Thanks for all the cool stuff!
Cool prints! definite love the handle one especially. However, I am having some trouble with getting the screws for the spool holder to thread in. Any advice on trying to get those screws in there?
it definitely took a lot of pressure. I had to pretty much thread the screws through the handle to create threads in the print. then proceed to screw it into the printer. I hope this makes sense!
I'm struggling with this as well. I took the handle off and have been working at it trying to get the screw to "catch" and hopefully brute force it in. I got my Bambu A1 mini 2 weeks ago. It did not come with the more robust hex driver you have. It comes with the basic long L hex driver.
I started a wood screw in the beginning of the screw holes to widen them just outside. That helped to start the screws. Once they started, they went in fairly easily.
Hey Jet, thank you very much for your great video! 😊 I still wait for my A1 mini and I look forward to printing all the upgrades from you.Thank you very much. I Will keep you watching 😊
great video and awesome tips, I just added an A1 mini to my collection (p1s, s1pro, e3v2) its going to be interesting to see the comparisons first hand.
Hi Jet I have spent 10 min trying to find the files you have displayed for us in your video. I very much would like the spool relocating and bowden relocating STL files. I see your makerworld links, sadly makerworld is not a repository of model files like thingyverse or printables. there is no way to download a file from the site, and so I ask for you to make these files available, as STL or OBJ. no one wants a 3mf virus on their laptop, no one rawdogs someone else's Gcode on their printer. make it accessible, or its not relevant. THANKS
@@jet_lea Thanks Jet, I found a crummy version without the screw retention, used a 3m strip, good enough. wierd file tho to be sure. several people have videos of various storage devices, have the long tray prominently displayed, yet no reference to its existence
I’m sorry to hear you’re scared of 3mf files. Here are a couple of ways in which you can safely interact with them: 1. In Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer (probably PrusaSlicer too), add a primitive to an empty plate. Drag 3mf file onto plate. A dialog box will appear asking if you want to open as a project or import geometry only. Choose the latter to only import the mesh. 2. Search for “convert 3mf to stl”. There are numerous free services that will do this. A 3mf is a zip file and contains no executable code nor does it contain gcode. It may contain slicer settings which can be reviewed and modified but it is not a vector for a virus. If you’re concerned about a malformed mesh causing a buffer overflow leading to arbitrary code execution then use an online service to extract the model (#2 above) and let someone else’s computer take the risk.
