80% of String Changes Skip This Crucial Step ★ Acoustic Tuesday 307 

I love changing the strings. It’s like the new car smell except for the ears. Bright sound.

Back in the archaic days of landlines, I used the telephone to tune. The dial tone is an A.

Man I’m glad you clarified string stretching. I’ve seen videos where they insist you grab them; I say to myself, “I don’t care if it’s the right thing to do, no way I’m gonna do that.”

I enjoy the whole process. It's very gratifying, like detailing your car.

I love changing strings.....it's a ritual of love ❤️

How refreshing to hear you killing the 'only one string at a time' dragon !! I've been playing since the 1960s and I've ALWAYS removed all the strings. Time after time the paranoid say 'Oh you shouldn't', so thanks again.

I've been changing my own strings for nearly 6 decades and wow, thanks for the tips.

Excellent tutorial. Bending the ball end and lubricating the nut slots make perfect sense. Thank you for this.

Sometimes the saddle can fall out, it you have a piezo pickup. I had this happen once and I accidently broke the piezo in half during the scramble to find the saddle. That'll make you use some words that aren't family friendly. Sometimes there isn't always a nice flat surface to lay your axe on during a string change. I have restrung them while standing on a guitar stand, laying on my lap while bouncing down the road in a bus, etc.

Best string change lesson on RU-vid and your best version too!

Fun fact: Luthiers hate the "luthier" knot. Seriously. We really hate it. It is an unnecessary step that is irritating to deal with. I've not spoken to another pro luthier that uses it, or even that doesn't strongly dislike it. I don't think my ways are the "right" way, I wasn't trained that way. That knot is just one of the myths you mentioned in pretty much every other step. And I gotta say, it makes me so happy to see someone use the pull back method for string length instead of measuring by the tuning posts. I think I've seen one other video on here that does that. It is far more consistent than the tuning posts. I pull back one fret for guitar and two for bass.

Good string change for beginners. I have a little different method which is a combination of your method and Taylor's factory method. The best way is the way you are comfortable doing but I agree with cleaning while the strings are off. Do not try cleaning the headstock with the strings on this could cause sore fingers on your chording hand.

Good tips. The only difference for me is when doing the G, B and high E strings, I do the high E, then the B then end with the G. I find it gives me more room to manipulate the strings when doing the luthiers knot and winding. Just personal preference.

Man I love your style of talking and your tempo and info and logic and great straight forwardness.

Somebody turned me onto Boiled Linseed Oil once. I had left my prized Gibson J-50 home when I was shipped to Okinawa in '67. I watched a fellow change strings that came from the states along with a vial of oil. When I got out of the service, I got a small can of BLO, and have used it every other time I would change strings. Same for mandolin.

I've been playing since I was 12 years old and having been stringing all my life and while I string similarly. the luthier's knot was not in my repertoire. And using the pencil was not on my radar as well. So, after nearly 60 years of doing this I think I can get it right without hassles!! Thank you Tony. I so appreciate this segment!!!

Knowing you're about to undertake this endeavor would be a good time to go ahead and pre-order bone everything. Nut, bridge and pins. Sometimes sold in complete sets. Of course the right sizes for your setup . Put away all those 'spare' plastic parts and save them somewhere i.e. guitar case. Mechanical pencil's lead seems to fit the nut grooves better if your a neat freak like myself. And always always aways, luthier knot......yep even slotted!

This is the most comprehensive and accurate guide to string changing I've seen. I have slight differences but this is basically my process. I'll definitely share.

Thanks for bringing the truth out front. Because honestly, unless you have a floating bridge that you're trying to keep in exactly the same position there's no reason to not take all your strings off and change them at the same time. If you do have a floating bridge, sometime you might wanna leave one of the middle strings in place until you've got a couple others to hold the bridge where you want it. Or you could just pay attention to where it's at and make sure to put it back. Lol I don't like that knot, I don't need it except for classical strings string. But that's just my personal preference. There's a trick you might consider. And that's using a toothpick and a microscopic dab of white lithium grease instead of graphite on the nut. It works really well. And the excess wipes off with a paper towel leaving no evidence it was there. Except for the fact thatyou're tuning is considerably smoother But you even covered that detail. Awesome video!

Thank you Tony very well explained and very much appreciated. great video as always

Have listened to your music and you are a man who is worthy of giving info about the dedication involved in learning and maintaining what you think you know. Peace brother. I will never take all the strings off again. Talk to MARTIN and listen to what they say. They voided my warranty because I admitted that I did that. Peace and good luck.

Good solid advice! The little details help. Thanks!

I found your restringing helpful. Especially the part about protecting the bridge as you pull pins. For quit a while I have been fallowing your old video where you restrung a mahogany guitar. I think you do things a little different now. I feel I will be using this new and improved restringing method. Thanks for your help!!

Enjoyed the lesson on restringing the guitar👍👍👍🎸🎸🎸🎸

Been playing since 1982 and learn something new everyday. Great channel thank you

Wow, I sure wish I had these video when I learned how to restring my guitars! The first time I tried took an 1.5 hours and I used a’many expletives. The pencil trick was new to me and I am glad of the approval for the Luthier’s knot (since I use this method as well). Thank you for sharing this and loved hearing about the Guitar Summit. I have a 3 year goal to make it there.

I like your uncommon/common sense approach to this. Your experience shows and is obvious. This makes me trust your information. I just subscribed and liked. Looking forward to more. Thank you.

I love it! Thank you! Go Wild!

Thanks for the tips!

Regarding how often to change strings: I lived for 40 years in high humidity environments, and changed every month. Now in the arid Sonoran desert, I am at 3 month intervals, and they still sound pretty darn good… could probably go longer, but force of habit makes 90 days max…

Great content have been using the pencil but not the luthier knot I will use both methods do to your great content . Love all your content .

That hook bend in the string before the bridge pin really helps, I forgot to do this on a bari 12er recently, made it a real pain. Thanks for the reminder.

Tip: Bridge-pins of the E-A-D, that often need some more "force" to pull out, come out very easily by pushing the already cut ends of those 3 strings into the bridge holes just a little bit. Most of the time I don't need the string winders notch anymore since I found that out.

Thanks- helpful, expert guidance!

Enjoyed the video and tips, would love to see the same type of string changing video on a slotted head stock guitar.

Thanks for a very clear visual of Luther's knot, among other insights.

This is super valuable, thank you :)

Most excellent tony, the string stretching and pencil method were excellent. Great job, we a TAC appreciate your knowledge.

Well done! Love the luthiers knot and the ball end bend tips.

Re the string replacement / tuning process…thanks Tony. I’ll remember this video and, no doubt, will be coming back to it.

I personally take a while when it comes to putting the strings in tune. I tune down a little here and there to stretch the strings out. Depending on the gauge, it can take a couple of days for the strings to settle and stay in tune. Great video. I always find these useful to see how others do it. Your pencil on the knut method intriques me and I will certainly give it a try,

Great video! Thank you.

Very helpful, thanks

Hi Tony....I do the changing mostly as you described, but the graphite lube as well as the slight ball end bend at the saddle are great to know - Appreciate your great advice!

like tommy5241 said: on every archtop I have had, there is a sun fade spot around the bridge. So your right about the bridge falling off, but after a year or two out of the case there will be a "spot" marked on the soundboard. And you can use a wet/dry marker to put dots at each corner that will rub off. Be careful not to rub them off while polishing.

I watched the whole guitar build , it was awesome , a wealth of knowlege

Great tips

I only started learning how to play guitar a month ago & I'm documenting my journey on here but this is gonna be super helpful when I first change my strings!

Thanks, I've played guitar for a long time and have always questioned the best way to change strings(many a discussion with friends on this). Change all at once vs one at a time. How much string to leave, and what knot to put on the tuner, and placing strings in the bridge. Thanks!

I used to do this. It’s a completely unnecessary step. Last few years I just send it through and wind it up with a little give. It actually stays in tune better because when it settles, there’s not a weird kink in the string and it’s more accurate to tune because you can get a wider band of where you actually want to tune. It’s like increasing your tuning gear ratio.

Alright, i subscribed. You got me with the 'slight bend at the ball end' thing. Ive experienced the SLAM, when the ball suddenly hits the bridge plate. Sometimes on stage, and its pretty violent...the guitar goes out of tune, and ive had guitars that needed a new bridge plate as a result. You taught an old dog a new trick. Thank you, sir. I would also like to thank the fellas here in the comments, Who just taught me to leave out the 'Luthiers knot' thing. Which is gonna come in handy when i restring my newly acquired 76 Takamine 12 string today once i get it cleaned and set up like i want it. Thank you guys as well. Thats gonna save me some time as well. No more luthiers knots. It will also make removing the old strings easier too. Ive been using the graphite trick for over 40 years, and believe me, it works. I have big hands, use heavier strings, and bend like crazy- And 90% of the time it comes back in tune.

Thanks Tony, just one addy. I pull my string through the post, then back about two frets. I also start with the D then the G and work outwards, this way I'm not working over the installed strings. I have always used the graphite trick though. Thanks a lot for the good video.

Ive seen the string end first go under on the first turn and go upper side on the rest on the turns and it seems very good to me

I just can't spend that much on those strings. They don't give a particular sound that I'm willing to pay top dollar for, but they might be a dream come true for some people. Good video, buddy.

I've been playing for 20 years and watched this entire video, subscribed

Yes a big thank you

Agree on stretching strings. I don’t stretch them at all. I’ve never been comfortable honking on my delicate instrument. So to speak. I put on new strings and tune often. After 3 sessions or so, everything settles in.

For proper number of loops on each string; use the first fret as the measurement. Pull string through the post, grab the string being installed at the nut, pull it back the first fret, and that’s the slack needed to give the proper amount of wraps.

Tony really woke up and said “hmmm been awhile since I restrung this here fiddle… I know! I’ll restring it on the show today!” I do actually like the fact that you put to bed the myth that you can’t remove all your strings at once. I usually always remove all my strings, except on my 1950 L7. Floating bridges are kind of pain, so if I do the string one at a time the bridge doesn’t shift, and my intonation stays the same. But my guild D25 and takamine I just pop them all off.

Great video!

Good video Tony Polecastro!!

If you remove the strings from the Bridge, try next time to push the String into the Guitar at the Pin a little. The Pin should be loose very easy that way and you can pull the strings out. Dont know if anyone Else is doing that but it is very satisfying for me. 😅

All you have to do, is run the entire string through the post. Back it up maybe a post-and-a-half's worth. Bend the excess toward the middle of the headstock. Wind the string down like a coil (the lower on the post the string, the tighter against the nut it will be). Then bend the excess string back and forth until it breaks off cleanly. No need for clippers. No stickers to nail your fingers. However, you have to twice overwrap the string-through on the 1st and 2nd strings, otherwise, when you break off the strings, they will slip on the posts. Trust me. You will love having no stickers to draw blood. By bending the excess string toward the middle of the headstock, you form an "S" through the post, adding to a tight fit. Oh yeh, some nut lube on that nut will work wonders for tuning. That’s 61 years of string changing experience for you … But what’s right for you, is right for you!

Tony, this is Denni M from TAC, I love this video as I do most. However as you state there are so many that will argue as to how to secure the strings on the tuner. But for me yours is the best. Since I joined your community almost 4 years ago this is how I learned and continue to change my strings and never had an issue and I was changing my strings today so this video is a sign to me that I was correct that it was time to change them!

Go hawks! Love your work and video, love the Hawks jerseys!

I have a fear of the strings coming out of the tuner pin holes so I have always left an inch loose. Another thing I learnt is that with older accoustic guitars and classical guitars where the tuners are bone pegs inside the head stock, once youve threaded the string through the tuning peg hole, loop the loose end half way round back to the side you threaded it through and thread it through the same hole again. This helps the tuning peg grip the string so it doesnt slip out when youre doing the initial winding.

I got a small chargeable Black and Decker drill and string winder attachment. It makes it easier big time Thanks for video

Hi Tony, love the video, would like to ask if you still recommend the "over under" method for restringing guitar?

Dig your show Tony , watching from Australia . Peace ✌

I LOVE string-change day :)

Yeah, love the smell of Gibson spray polish! Polishes nicely too.

I found myself using 8/20's on my j45and Phosphor Bronze on by Guild D40 And Taki. Just seemed to work better. Now I know why. Thanks

As a master luthier I agree with everything you said about stringing a flat top acoustic. A luthier knot however is not necessary. It does nothing at all to hold the string on. A 90 degree kink is what actually doing 100% of keeping the string from slipping. Also with arch top guitars go ahead and unceremoniously cut them all off. Placing the bridge correctly is a basic setup skill.

Boy oh boy, I want to change my strings now on the only guitar I own. I am nervous as heck to do it, so I keep putting it off. But I do want too learn! So I'm take the opportunity to do it soon.

Best string change video out there

great video but heres a few other options to consider, 1) instead of the pencil just get some Big Bends Nut Sauce, its clear and easy to use. 2) cutting the string close to the post is common but it does leave a sharp edge so when moving your hand quickly to tune you might rub against the sharp end and get a cut, been there done that so another option is to cut it an inch out then fold the string back to itself pointing to the peg hole, do this it at an angle where the is no possible way to catch your fingers. IT WORKS, I also use the luthier knot it works great. 3) String stretching ! I would suggest string stretching for a guitar living at home is different for live touring and playing and for luthiers at shows who are there presenting their guitars. Tonys method for a home guitar is fine but not for the other things i mentioned. you dont get a week for the guitar to strings to sort themselves out. Ive played at many luthier shows for builders and their mini workshops and the hard lesson learned the first few times is that un stretched strings will leave you embarrassed on stage as the strings drift out of tune. You pull out on the string just not like a maniac, I pulled lightly thoughout the entire string then retune and you keep doing this 5-7 times to where the strings doesnt lower in pitch after another stretch. IT WORK and does not hurt the guitar. 4) Home string changes hardly work when touring, you change strings quickly holding the guitar in hand and much easier to change one string at a time this keeps the tension constant and while Tony disagrees theres no real proof either way so it gets down to your own personal confidence of what you feel is right. Does tension change things ? Possibly if you have tuned and electric you will find that as you tune one strings the others change in pitch, it also does that on an acoustic but more subtle so for live playing you changing singles at a time makes more sense. So to the point Tony has done a wonderful video for guitars that live at home but for guitars that travel there are much for efficient and time saving options to consider.

I wrap tape around the string winder, so when I use the peg puller part it protects the bridge from damage. I also put some cardboard inside the winder to protect the tuning pegs.

Tony, I totally agree with you here! I love your guitar tuner. I have several tuners however they are all old and are not sensitive enough and have dead spots in the tone ratio. Your digital one seems to respond incredibly! What brand is it? It is hard to see on the video. Thanks 👍🏻

I am so chuffed to see someone else using a pencil in the nut slot, I actually use a mechanical pencil because the led is thinner, but so cool to know I'm not the only one doing it :) I also use the luthier's knot, which was dissed in the last stringing up video I watched, but I've stuck with it as I found it worked for me. Good to see you pointing out not to whip all the strings off on an archtop, so wish I'd seen this a few years ago before I restrung my first ever archtop, apparently my face was a picture when I slacked all the strings off and watched the bridge fall to the floor :) took me ages to correct the intonation after that :)

I never cut my strings. I wiggle them back and forth and they will break off clean at the peghead. This has never caused me an issue. I once had a house full of neighborhood girls who always wanted to straighten out those sloppy keys. This avoided the tears.

I love changing strings. Nothing like a fresh set of guitar strings

With a floating bridge the top is normally discolored (faded). And there is a Template” of where to relocate it.

Thanks for very thorough with excellent instructional tips. Meanwhile, from 45 mark, the guitar samplings audio recordings seem to have some kind of technical flaw, or maybe it's my phone or my ear. There seems to be a muddiness or some kind of are technical glitch that diminishes the quality at certain tones.

It has been my habit to change strings with it sitting on my lap. I also dispense with cutting the strings I am removing. Once the tension is off, I just remove the strings from the tuners, and that gives me the same access to the back of the pegs through the sound hole. I have not used that ball-end bend trick, and I don't feel I have had much of an issue with that, but I will give it a try. I do lube the nut slots with a pencil. Another advantage of this is that if I skip this step, the strings can get hung up a bit while tuning, and when I am close to having it in tune, it will suddenly jump and be well out-of-tune. It can be a fight to get it tuned, and if you think you have it and start playing, it might jump then. It is not a matter of the nut slot width either. The string moves quite freely through a lubricated nut slot. I do use the luthier's knot and have done so for most of my guitar-playing years. The guitar at the summit that really caught my attention was the Preston Thompson Wildlife Series guitar. It has a beautifully inlaid diamonback rattlesnake pattern on the fretboard, with the snake's head coming down the top of the headstock. It was absolutely beautiful.

TY TY I just changed my first strings,,,including the LUF..KNOT ty!

Tony, thanks for walking us through the changing of the strings. I have been doing it wrong for years. I'm still learning my instrument. So far, it has been 44 years, and I still get it wrong and cannot play a song all the way through.

Check that the tuner bushing nuts are just snug (DO NOT CRANK THEM DOWN or you will damage the finish)

Question: I just change my strings, but hadn’t heard of the graphite trick on the nut. Would it be OK to loosen each of the strings enough to slide it out of the slot and take a pencil and put the graphite on, and then re-tune the string? I can’t think of a problem with that.

Great video..only wish the camera could of zoomed in for the bridge set up and the strings for the top. An over viewing from above would be really neat. Thank you !!! I detail cars in the warm summer but during winter the freeze hurts far to much. I'm thinking it will be neat to string guitars during freezing temps. Do they have any certification classes on this? I'm sure someone would want business insurance too since many guitars are very pricey. Thank You !!!! Rocky

Add a 1.5” - 2” quality paintbrush to your kit for dusting those inaccessible spots between changes, plus, use it for dusting faceplates on amps, mixers, and anything else with knobs. Then go clean the vents in your car.

I recently discovered the Santa Cruz parabolic strings. They are more expensive but well worth it. Have tried using slotless pegs and sawing the slots into the bridge?

I lived with a guy in Tampa. He did a Cat Stevens act back in the early 80s. He had a case of strings, He changed them everyday. Yes everyday. But if you watched the way he pounded on that poor Martin, you wouldnt be surprised. They needed it probably after a couple hours.

Stepping on the end of a string, caught in the carpet, is worse than stepping on Barbie shoes....

I have a slotted headstock reso that I would love a lesson on. Maybe in a future video.

I find that pulling the string to just about flat and then pulling back off one fret-worth of length give me perfect windings every time (quick too!)

Tony, Some years ago I had a Seagull guitar with an undersaddle piezo pickup. I took all the strings off at once and when I put the new strings on and tuned up the pickup didn't work correctly, the volume was noticeably less. Have you ever encountered that issue? Maybe just an issue with that guitar? I'd like to take all the strings off at once to change them on my new Yamaha FGX5 but I don't want to risk damaging the undersaddle pickup.

Yep I'm the one lol ...I was always told if you have a Piezo pickup on your acoustic under the bridge you should always leave one string (A or D) to keep the bridge in place so as not to disturb the pickup. I was told disturbing the pickup wire could upset the balance of the pickup. Be interested to know if this is true?

Hi Tony do you ever detune your strings for say flying or storage?

Been stringing up guitars for a long time myself. The only thing a luthiers knot does is make the strings difficult to take off. I’ve never had problems with strings breaking or tuning issues. That’s stuff happens with cheap hardware and bad saddles.

Gibson Murphy Lab Acoustics just announced?!? 🎉