Okay guys, this is a little long, but I cover a lot of the snags that folks run into when fixing these common leaks on a 80S Land Cruiser. Mine is a 1996 and I love it. Working on these leaks is going to bring you closer to a full understanding of the vehicle and the great straight 6 engine that Toyota designed for these vehicles. I first go through the tear down to get to the various areas to be worked on; like the order I use to keep the battery connected long enough to utilize the engine to break the crank bolt loose, make way for the distributor o-ring replacement (battery and battery tray removal), and how I get the fan and fan shroud out with no hoses being disconnected.
I used the method described by many on ih8mud dot com to loosen the 7 philips screws holding the oil pump cover on, but with a late twist using a small Milwaukee impact screw gun. This little tool is awesome around the house and shop.
Lastly, I employ the method of holding the auto-trans flexplate to re-torque that same crank bolt and button up the front end again. This stopped 98% of my leaks for sure, but I think I'm going to tackle the oil pan and maybe the rear main seal next. I'll film that as well.
Hope this helps at least one person do these fixes!
Parts list:
1. Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
2. Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7 ~ $2.00 ea.
3. Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
4. dizzy-o ring Part # 90099-14118
Optional depending on the condition of your existing parts
5. V belts Part # 90916-02353-83 & 9932-109 - these cost ~ $40.00
6. Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010 (if your vehicle has one) ~$80.00
2 окт 2024
