88-98 Chevy K1500 front end rebuild with Mevotech TTX ball joints and tie rods 

I reposted the video for some edits, sorry about the mess with the comments

i love this. as a obs owner please please please share everything you do to this truck. liked this video and was a sub already.

Excellent video! I love that you do things the right way, paying attention to the details throughout the rebuild process.

I've enjoyed all the videos I've watched from yall. Very easy to follow/understand. Thanks for the great quality video series.

Great video. Appreciate you sharing the torque specs, peace of mind knowing things were done right. Thanks.

Absolutely love your videos. You make very easy to understand and follow. I had so many questions, you've no doubt answered most of them by watching your videos. 🍺

Thank you for putting together all these videos on the K1500. Just picked one up and I’ll will be taking on many of these projects either wrenching on it or taking it in. This is definitely top of my list of to dos.

Love this video! Very detailed and easy to understand! Please keep them coming

Best series I've ever seen. I have a '96 Tahoe 4x4 and this is exactly what's been on my heart to get done the rig...the Lord works in mysterious ways :) Bless you brother!

Good job..enjoyed it...cotter-pins were done right...some people loop both legs under the bolt head...both are acceptable bends & locations.

Love how you showed the greasing of the ball joints. Never seen some one show it before. I always wondered how I would know when they were full. Now I do.

one of the best videos I've seen. most videos are splotchy and don't really show as much or tell as much detail as you do in this video. I love it. keep it up man your videos are great!

great video. ive had the TTX tie rod ends on my gmt800 for two years with no issues yet.

My old man passed in April and left me my grandfather's 89 z71. Gramps was at a dealership when the first order of z71s were delivered and bought it before it was unloaded. 😂 Glad I found your channel so I know to order those beefmaster ball joints when I do this to my truck.

looks great love the new parts,I think I will go that route myself.

You did a nice job both with the work you did and the video. Thanks

I love mevotech products. They were the only company (aside from the dealership) that made my coilover caps. I could of used the OEM caps but I was worried about wear and tear.. honestly the parts weren't that expensive for the piece of mind i have. But I have a 06 Acura TL which has a ridiculous 20in rim (I went down to 18x9.5 +35mm) but my suspension felt way too bouncy and they were stock struts and shocks. After putting in some newer coilovers and getting my alignment I was stunned that I didn't even need a front or rear camber kit. Now my acura doesn't bounce like crazy (I also replaced a few bushings) it's a solid ride.

Thanks for your hard work with the video. You Did good job Talking about the job at hand . a lot of videos of drag and drag before they even get started.

Currently planning to install 4x4 into my 97 C1500 please make as many videos on the entire front drivetrain, your awesome

Just so you know, you don't loose torque with an extention on a torque stick, only with air or electric tools you loose torque, but great informative video! Love this brand stuff!

Running same ball joints and tie rods. Definitely built well.

Thank you for the great video. Both Great job and appreciate the information about Mevotech. I have purchased Mevotech TTX all steering components for my 96 Chev K1500, and am installing. Just thought that i would share. If one does not have a reason to pull the torsion bars (like painting, adjusting, or replacing), one does not need to. I was able to pull the torsion bars sideways (down didn't work) by pulling the lower control arm out, then blocked (2 - 4x4s + 1 - 2x4 worked) between the torsion bar and exhaust, then I pulled the lower control arm forward, off of the torsion bar. I left the blocks in place and after updating the upper & lower control arms, it went right back into place without any adjustment.

I have an 03' F150, and I just did all this work using the same componants, and I installed a set of Bilstein 4600's......drives like new also. Loved these componants so much that I am buying a front end rebuild kit for my father in law's 98' Silverado that we use for hunting/fishing trips. It gets a fair amount of abuse in the fall when we drive on disked up cornfields hunting geese/waterfowl. I was worried the TTX line might ride too harsh, but in my FX4 they improved the handling and really woke up the tired front end of my truck with over 200K on it.

These videos are dangerous, got me thinking “Yeah, I could TOTALLY do that!” Lol. Great video very informative.

Your videos came up on my feed just in time when i was going to do this on my truck

Absolutely outstanding!

I will definitely be using this video when its time to do mine!

Man I went years not knowing what a spud wrench was and it is my favorite suspension tool

Excellent instructions, TY. I have read all the comments trying to see if you have a review of the Mevotech products you have used here. I have an 02 Avalanche with 260K miles and I need to replace pretty much everything like you did. Mine is 2wd so it will be a little less complicated. I have been reading up on OEM parts and Moog, Kryptonite, and Cognito, etc. The reviews on all are from one end of the spectrum to the other. I'm almost 70 but still very active and I don't see myself buying anymore vehicles. I also own a 98 3500 dually, with only 150K miles. I'm the second owner on both vehicles, owned them both for 18 years. At this point I like em both and don't want to go cheap on replacement parts, I just can't afford to shell out 3K on hi end front end suspension parts. I'm above Atlanta and the weather here is good for the undercarriage. Both vehicles are rust free. What brand would you recommend?

John is a buddy of mine and he has done axles for me for years. The last one he did was also from an '89 K1500.

I think that a Kryptonite center link would have been a nice touch here but excellent build. Very nice

Great video! love it!

Awesome video Great work !

Thank you so much! So cool video

Very nice work good sir 🤩

I need to do this on my 95 . At 193k nearly everything stock all round.

Fantatsic video man!

I am wanting to do this with my 2000 Chevy suburban. It would be so nice to have everything you done on this, done to mine. Next project.

Thank you for this video!!!

Loved your video and I’m now a subscriber

I highly appreciate the effort this man puts into making these incredibly awesome videos What paint did you use for the chassis? Is there a video for that?

ty for my new go to video

Great videos!

Great video only thing I would do differently is to put sway bar link bolt threw the control arm first threads up

those angled grease fittings are usually 2 piece. If that's the case, usually a 7 or 8mm socket to take off the zirc and then the main part you can use the appropriate socket on.

@Suburban Ranch Thank you for these videos. Just finished up an engine rebuild/upgrade and got my truck back from the tranny shop with a rebuild/upgrade on that as well. Time to do this job. I do have some play in the steering and the truck does get a little squirrely on uneven pavement at cruising speed. I can see rotted grease boots on ball joints, leaked grease, missing long bolt bushings on the driver's side end of the sway bar, and at least one CV boot is split in half. Pretty sure all this stuff is 30 years old. Power steering system seems to be working fine. My questions: What part should I be checking/replacing on the steering shaft for play? And will that along with what you did in this video most likely get my handling issues corrected?

When adjusting for camber which direction do you go to get positive or negative camber?

Thanks for the video, great work. what coating/paint are you using on the frame and parts? I'm working on cleaning up my 96.

Very nice 👌

I’m currently trying to fix up my 94 k1500 I got last year. But if only my torsion bars came out as easy as they did for you lol. I have been doing everything to get them out of the lowers but they will not come budge.

Very very good video

Wish i had the time and money buddy must be nice. 98k2500 rust free

Very good detailed video! Watched it about ten times now. Quick question. Is all this stock suspension and stock torsion keys? I ran into a roadblock with my Tahoe. Had a 3 inch RC lift installed about 12 years ago and now tearing it apart to rebuild it and thank god I’m doing it. All my ball joints were done and my upper control arms were riding the top bump stop causing crazy preload on the torsion bar and keys. Were those keys stock keys?

Super awesome video thank you so much I've been having a lot of trouble trying to find some of the right torque specs. Don't know if you'll see my comment but by chance what size were the torsion torsion bar bushing spacers?.

@ערן תומר"are you sure that the torsion bars go with the arrows and R and L signs to the front?" That's how they came out of the truck

@DeletedDevil "How much did all that cost you?" All of the part numbers are in the description. I would check rockauto, they typically have good prices. @john burke Gave a great answer "I just made another pretty big order on rock auto with the same parts except for the lower control arms. All mevotec parts, including ball joints upper and lower, upper control arms, pitman and idler arm with idler arm bracket, inner and outer tie rod ends with sleeves, also had to get a new power steering pump and steering intermediate shaft. Everything was around 1200. And definitely worth it on every obs I build"

Love it

Wish I had companies just giving me upgraded ball joints and steering shaft bearings and whatnot 😂

Great video! do have on question the part #'s for the upper control arms CMS50120 and CMS50121 match but don't match according to the product picture the ball joint doesn't look like it can be removed with out grinding down the rivets. Is it maybe just not the actual pic?

I did some research on these parts. They are "just get buy until you can afford better parts" parts. I wound't rely on these if you take your truck on logging roads, forest service roads, or off road roads in general.

Mans rock auto cart was filled up before he checked out

@Sea Snake "What paint did you use??" We used Rustoleum primer and top coat

Curious what opinions are on Mevotech vs say AC Delco Gold/Professional suspension parts?

Awesome video! Where did you find the lower arm? I have 97 K1500, and I cannot find a new arm anywhere.

Nice truck. I have a 94 that needs the same treatment with the painted frame. Did you do a cab lifted off the frame project? Looks nice!

Great video. Can you post the torque spec on that 36 mm nut for the cv shaft. Thanks.

Great video. Would these part fit a 95 2 door Tahoe 4x4? Looking to up grade my front suspension.

What kind of paint did you use on the steering knuckle? It looks a little glossier that the paint you used on the rust repair on the rest of the body of your suburban.

Thanks!!! I use your videos to replace all my suspension and steering. And your parts list (ALL OF IT) . Everything worked great, but the hub assembly. The flange with the studs is 1/6" to thin, my rotor rubs the dust shield and won't turn. Did you have this problem? I have a 1990 k1500 Silverado.

@john burke "For the control arm knock out, there is a control arm knock out tool. For they people without a hammer. Anyone can find it on Amazon." Thanks for the comment, We didn't know that tool existed! I'll leave out the other part haha

I'm looking to replace my front suspension with Mevotech. I've seen several complaints of fitment being off and overall quality of some of the components being low and wearing out quickly (after less than 15k miles). Have you had or experienced any of these issues?

Hey Suburban Ranch. What are your opinions on swapping out to a 5.3 and 6L80 tranny into my 97 Tahoe 2door Z71 sport? I want just a smidge more power and with a 6spd transmission, gas mileage should improve as well. Would love your opinion. Thank you for taking the time to teach us gmt400 owners how to work on our trucks. Nothing is more satisfying than when my wife's Tahoe has an issue, I can fix it now from fuel sender, to suspension, to ac work. You make me look good to my wife and daughter and for that beer and steak is on me if you come to Orlando.

For the torsion bars. They are labeled left and right. Which is passenger and which is driver side? Also, which way does the labeled left and right labeled side go( lower AArm or torsion key)? Thanks

Sway bar links bolts are much easier if you go thew lower control arm first

Fenomenal video man. Is it the same process for the c1500? Some kits for the c1500 had one style control arms . I’d prefer this style you put on.

What kinda paint did you use to jazz up that frame looks good

So you had to grind the ball joint to fit the control arm? I wish that it was shown. Thanks for the video.

Lower ball joints (4 bolts) - 45 ft pounds Upper ball joints (4 bolts) - 18 ft pounds Upper ball joint main - 84 ft pounds Bottom ball joint main - 94 ft pounds 6 bolts for cv axle - 59 ft pounds Main cv nut (36mm) - 173 ft pounds 3 bolts for wheel hub - 133 ft pounds Shock bolts - 48 ft pounds Sway bar bolts - 13 ft pounds Sway bar mounts - 24 ft pounds Inner/outer tie rods - 40 ft pounds Lower control arms - 135 foot pounds Upper control arms - 88 ft pounds Torsion bar cross member bolts - center bolt is 18 pounds Edge bolts are 46 ft pounds

I noticed you did not show the lower control arm bushings being replaced. Did you replace those yourself or have a machine shop swap them out? Now that you've had some drive time, what is your impression of the TTX parts?

@suburbanranch When you install the toraion bars , do you leave the fron knuckles and parts jacked up on boards? If so do you lower them after you put the key in and get the adjusting bolt in? I cant seem to get them to stay tensioned or lower with tire on?

How are those ttx parts holding up? I'm on the fence about getting some lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Have read so many mixed reviews.

what did you use for black chassis paint you've done a very nice job it looks clean and OE

Getting my frame redone on my lifted 93 c1500

Wow, you could eat off that frame! I have a 1990 K2500 and am doing a front end rebuild with almost the identical parts as you. One thing I am curious about: My sway bar link bolts are almost touching my upper control arms, while your bolts are about 2 inches below the UCAs. Wonder why that is? (I have not tightened the sway bar brackets yet, just started the bolts, so that could be why?) I was planning on tightening the bar brackets after the truck was back on its tires.

I know the center link is directional but does the longer end go on the driver side or passenger side, I can’t find that information anywhere

Nice video. You didn't show or mention that you tightened the hub nut after lowering the vehicle. Hope you did!

How did you go about removing the factory lower ball joint from the control arm? I have beat, drilled and grinded on the rivets and they just will not move.

I know this video is quite old but what was the process for removing and replacing Lower Control Arm Bushings? I picked up some poly lower bushings for simplicity and longevity so install will be slightly different than rubber bushings.

Wonderful video. I have a chevy suburban year 1997, C1500, meaning two wheel drive, several parts of the suspension were replaced, but I'm not sure if the technician made a good job when replacing the entire steering assy. On this video on the minute 31:00 shows the entire steering assy , showing that the nuts of the inner tie rod faces to the bumber, and the outher tie rod nut faces to the hood, however on my car the nuts of the inner rod faces to the engine. Wonder if the inner tie road has to be placed on the other way around because that my truck is two wheel drive and on your video shows a four wheel drive chevy or perhaps my technican made a mistake Wonder wich problem could ocurr by placing the inner tie rod on the wrong position. Any comment will be very welcome.

A parts break down or where you bought the parts would be nice to know. But all in all I love the video.

question, where did u get the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the lower ball joint to the lower control arm? you torqued them to approx 100 ft lbs, but the Haynes Repair manual says 17 ft lbs for K1500/k2500 and 52 ft lbs for k3500, which is a big difference. just curious.

Do they have the ball joints for a 2500 8lug or make any of these parts for one ? Looks like a nice upgrade. I’ve got a 98

What paint did you use???

did you upload a video of that fantastic job you did on that frame?

What steering box are you using in on my 3rd Napa box loosing hope this truck will ever drive nice again lol and yes all tie rods have been replaced with acdelco parts wish I seen this video before.

can i use all of these for my 1993 chevy k1500? Planning on buying a 6 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift and having big (35+ inch tires on it). Will this be strong enough?

hey guys... awesome channel great content please keep up the hard work. I do have a question though... I'm up in Canada and I'm trying to source out your mevotech parts. where did you order them from? cause their site doesn't have any purchasing options available. Thanks in advance

thank to the good video ! i have a one question ! the torsion bar position R to the ride side and L to the passenger side ? is correct? thanks

What paint did you use for the frame? Also how did you restore and paint the lower control arm?

Turn the bolt upside down to pass it through the lower control arm. It is next to impossible to start a nut while holding the washer up against the bushing inside the lower control arm. I am sure the GM assemblers were laughing as they installed those bushings, washers, and nuts inside the lower control arm, wondering how long it would take us idiots to figure out all we have to do is install the bolt with head down when it comes time to replace them.