This should honestly be the first fix when you buy one of there. Had my entire front end replaced and STILL had slop. Replaced the rag joint/coupler and voilà. Perfect steering and way improved turning ratio.
LOL, on my way home today driving my 90 silverado, I'm thinking, "Man, the steering is loose as hell, I should look at that coupler..." I get home and I'm checking out different videos on RU-vid having forgotten about the steering coupler, and I came across this video purely by accident. I've changed one before 35 years ago on my old 69 f100, easy job, so thanks for the refresher course!
I really appreciate the get to it point of view with no annoying music to play over the video content. Thanks man!!! Replacing mine on my 98 Suburban tomorrow.
I did this to my old Chevy truck a few weeks ago, and it made a big difference. Eliminated about 70 percent of steering slop. I am no longer constantly moving the steering wheel left and right while driving down a straight road.
I have a '93 k1500 and I replaced all of the steering components and still have a lot of play in the steering. I never even considered this part; thanks very much for the video.
When you separate the inner shaft from the outer housing ,there will be a little piece of metal fall out. It took an hour to find it down by the radiator support.
right on I have a few things yet to do on my 1991 GMC 1500 short box just body work so far , she smokes when first starting up so Ill have to replace valve stem seals that poor old motor has 446,000 klm on it but runs strong , rag joint is next its like herding chickens down the road , but the rest of the truck is LIKE A ROCK . thanks again young man .
since those rivets are mushroomed out they come out a lot easier going the other way. I used a grinding bit to grind down the heads on the other side and popped out the rivets easy. When I put my new coupler on (Lars 205) I had to turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to get the shaft to line up. My new coupler was riveted together 90 degrees off! I will have to drill out those rivets and rotate the 2 halves and use bolts to attach the coupler together.
I put this couple on a couple of my obs trucks. Rock auto seems to have the best parts for these trucks. You can also get the entire assembly for 180 bucks on rock auto for anyone who doesn’t want to grind then beat out the Rivera. Even though it’s not that difficult to do
Hi, do you have the link or number to the place you are talking about . My truck has that same problem and I would like to fix it right away. Thank you.
The rag joint serves a purpose. It dampens the vibration from the steering linkage being transmitted through the steering column. As long as your steering column and steering gear box still maintain the factory alignment, there’s no need for a U-joint. I will replace mine with a Lares 205 as I have neither the need nor desire to feel all that vibration and harshness while daily driving the truck. U-joints are only necessary for direction changes caused by altered alignment of the steering column and steering gear box. The consequence of the U-joint is that it transmits more vibration since it lacks the rubber to dampen the vibration.
I hope this help my truck, I replace everything on the front end steering minus the steering box. The steering is so loose I don’t even want to drive it in the freeway because of it.
@Suburban Ranch - Hey buddy, I need this part for my 1988 K 1500 4x4 and I cant seem to find it anywhere....??? Where did you get your Rag Joint and assembly...?? Thanks Steve
Took mine off yesterday from a 94 GMC Sierra and boy let me tell you it DOES NOT come off that easy as it seems you better get you a pry bar and some long sleeves on so you don't scratch your forearms all up 🤨
Just curious, Why did you choose a Blue Top Gearbox rather than a Redhead Gearbox? Was it just preference or do you know something that I don't about Redhead?
I can't find a definitive answer to the question of which spline I need, 26, 30 or some other number, I put in the same info on different Auto parts sites and I get different answers, I would like to order the part before I disassemble, but if I can't be sure, I guess I'll have to take it apart and count the splines, and then get the rag joint, I have a 93 Chevy K1500.
Do one BETTER..replace that shaft with one from a 88-00 (i think to 2000 maybe a little later or earlier) jeep cherokee..its a dirrct bolt on replacment. You CAN drill a thru hole on the jeep shaft top end to be able to have a bolt go all the way thru it like on top of orginal shaft as jeep shaft is a pinch type and would be fine but if want to be extra safe just drill the hole and there you go. Bottom gos on just like normal. Both sides take a 13mm Jeep Cherokee shafts use ACUAL BALL JOINTS no fabric joints
Great video , i am hesitant i have a 95 GMC K1500 heavy half work truck package , its the 14 bolt 6 lug " mythical rear end " ,it is also airbag and anti-lock , I have been told this first gen airbag has a column hair trigger , it was by a fairly reliable source, if anyone has dealt with first gen gm airbag ,,please help thanks to all
I would just get a whole new shaft. It’s much easier, like $70 and it just bolts in. Instead of replacing the rag joint by itself and having to rebuild it.
Yes. I am now a zombie. I was surprised that it firmed up the ragged joint significantly. Used it till my old blue got flattened by a tree 6 months ago. RIP