I've got a 9n that was my dad's split with the engine on a stand with shredded bearings, but somehow, the crankshaft was ok. That said, I picked up an 8n that I was told was converted to 12v, because I have a LOT of work that I have to get done soon. It does have a 12v battery, but I was suspicious, because it has a generator on it. I know that they can be internally converted to 12v as well, but the fact that it didn't have an alternator...worried me. Got it home, drove it about 20 feet...it stalled out, and won't start. It looks like they basically hot wired this thing to sell it after taking off a 12v conversion kit and throwing the old 6v original stuff back on. I have to go through everything and see what is what on it. I know they cut the wires to the AMP meter and the resistor isn't even connected on the thing. I'm afraid to find out what might be wrong. The engine runs...so that's good.
I have been around these tractors all my life, i love working on them. My golden jubilee i rescued and that sat for 36 years without being ran, I got that up and running, my 651 is running great. Not many issues i cant figure out with these tractors.
Well I think I know the owner of that tractor Jason an if I am right he's going to be so happy that it's running right. I want to think you so much for fixing that tractor it means so much to him. I new the way the tractor was running and the way it was sounding that the new carburetor was not working right
Could have a vacuum leak wher manifold bolts to engine or at carb mounting gasket. May need the carb cleaned and rebuilt I am working on a video rebuilding an original carburetor off an 8n. I'll let you know when I post that video. Thanks
Excellent diagnosis and narration along with camera work where we can really see. (My one question is why do RU-vid folks always have something on in the back ground (TV, Radio, another off camera person talking, an air compressor on, ........)? It takes away from such outstanding RU-vids like this one and I just don't get it.
I don't have any 8n tractors here currently to repair. The only time I have had a vapor lock type of issue was when the exhaust manifold was leaking and exhaust was blowing on the carburetor causing the vapor lock symptom. The carb. would get hot enough to cause the gas to boil in the carb. I hope this helps you out. Thanks
If that is an aftermarket carburetor they don't all work right they are a hit and miss if they are good or not if the original carburetor is not worn out it's better off putting a rebuilt kit into it. I didn't see it on camera but did you clean out the original carburetor ?
When the tractor was upgraded to 12 volt did you use a coil for 12 volts and install a resistor in the power wire to the coil? In the past I had put a ignition resistor for a early 70's dodge truck in place of the resistor that was there originally. Good luck and let me know if you got any other questions.
Why do you think the replacement carb wasn’t accepting gas? I’ve got the same issue right now on my ‘52 that won’t start. It’s a brand new replacement carb (like yours) and I’ve got fuel coming out of the line but for some reason the bowl remains dry. It’s really got me feeling pretty stupid. It took me about a week to get over my embarrassment just to post this question
I got the carburetor from the video. I'll take it apart to see what I find. I can video the disassembly and inspection to see if I can find the answer. Thanks
Try taking the metal line off the carburetor to check the volume of fuel flowing to the carburetor. I am thinking the fuel flow is less than the demand. There should be a strong flow with the gas valve on. A reduced flow would cause the tractor to run good till the float bowl begins to get low causing it to gradually run worse as the bowl level goes down. Let it sit for a few minutes and it would run fine for the 2 min. I would also blow thru the screen on the carb. elbow the screens will clog on the inside and look good but be full of rust or debris on the inside. Hope this helps.
I have not had one of the aftermarket carburetors work for me. I always rebuild the original whenever possible. I need to take the time to look at an aftermarket carb. to see what the problem is with them. Most run for 3 to 5 seconds then die. I'll call a customer that I sent it home with him to see if I can look at it. I usually send the bad new parts back with the customer to see if they can get their money back. Using and ultrasonic cleaner and rebuilding the original has always been my best solution. Thanks
@@whatsbroketodayThanks for the reply & videos. They have been very educational. I didn't even think that the new carb could be bad. I took my new carb off and there was no gas in it either. I put the existing Marvel carb back on. It has been very frustrating. I bought my 8N in Oct. It ran great at the seller's house. I got it to my hobby farm and it quit after 10 minutes. It hasn't run since. I upgraded to 12V, new battery, new spark plugs, new carb, new coil. It still won't start. It feels starved of fuel yet the sediment bowl and fuel line seems fine. It won't start with ether either. I just purchased a new spark plug wires, rotor, points, and condenser based on your video. I will try them when they are shipped. If not, I will get the existing carb rebuilt.
I’ve been trying to get my 9n running for a while and it still will not spark after a new coil, points, and condenser, distributor cap, starter solenoid, and even battery. I just can’t figure it out, I know it’s a positive ground system because it still has the generator system on it. The whole motor and tractor is covered in rust so I don’t know if it’s not getting a good connection some where but do you have any thoughts that might be able to help out?
I would use a 6 volt test light. Unhook the wire from the coil and check to see if the test light lights up if you go between the wire and distributor with the key on. If it does then we need to look inside the distributor. If it does not light up move from dist. to battery and look for it to light up then wire to coil to battery to find out if it is a problem on the positive or negative problem. I use a test light because it draws some current to light up where a multimeter can show power but not add current draw. I hope this helps. Thanks
@@whatsbroketoday I checked it with my multimeter and it says it’s getting 6.1 volts and my tractor doesn’t have a key start that was remover somewhere down the line mine only has a push button but the coil is getting power from that wire but I’m just not getting any power inside the distributor
I got the distributor out of my 8n which is the same as yours. I will make a short video of the testing I do that should help figure out your spark issue. Try to get it done by tomorrow.
