Heriberto Gonzalez changed that too didn't solve it. Found out i have bad slack in my chain. When I did this in the video it started up but then went back acting up. And after changing distributor it wanted to start. And then I found out it was the chain . But these sensors give similar symptoms.
Adrain Kirkland are you talking about the gasket that is on top of the throttle body where the iac bolts on to the iac plate. Iac gasket is what it's label under... now one thing you may check is your timing chain I have a video showing what to check for as far as timing chain slack. Found out my main problem is to much slack In the timing chain... check out that video and see if possibly you may be having the same issue as well
Bonjour , je suis français . Je vous explique mon problème : La voiture broute et a beaucoup de ratés quand le moteur est chaud . L'ancien propriétaire a changé le calculateur parce qu'un code défaut est apparu . La vanne erg a été changée 2 fois , la ligne d'échappement et la catalyseur sont neufs et non obstrués . Le module d'allumage est légèrement fondu à cause de la fuite du gaz d'échappement qui sort par le joint de la vanne ( où se trouvent 3 pistons ) . On peut entendre le sifflement de l'air qui essaye de sortir avec force du joint de la vanne ( j'ai de la suie ) J'ai dépensé beaucoup d'argent au garage , je ne sais plus quoi faire . En regardant la vidéo vous parlez de module MAP . Je n'ai pas contrôlé ni même le garage . Je remarque qu'il il y a une grande pression de gaz qui sort par le collecteur en direction de la vanne ERG , il n'y a pas de fuite au niveau du collecteur lui-même . Le garage me dit que c'est un problème électrique et un problème de calculateur . Toutes les pièces sont d'origine GM neuves .
I'm missing a relay on the left passenger side what is this to you I just replaced the fuel pump the thing would start with putting starter fluid in the intake I change the fuel pump out and now it won't start but you hear everything come on the relays on the right side driver side make a switching sound and then like a tick sound and there is gas going to the motor
I have a 1992 3.1 V6 - my idle went way up to 3,000 and the car took off with out me applying any gas pedal...then it jumped to 4,000 RPM's then back down to 1,000 after I put it in N and tried to break. I had an up/down 3,000/1,000 RPM when starting it --- I don't think it has ever been replaced -- it has 231,000 miles on it -- excellent condition though --- interior looks new -- but I have been replacing all kinds of stuff in the last 2 yrs that has basically worn out. Headlight motors, hatchback lifter, alternator, Muffler, catalytic convertor, spark plug wires, etc... I'm thinking the IAC Value is carbon high and dirty and probably needs to be replaced outright. What do you or anyone reading thinks??? I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor - I think the bolt is: 3/16"-32 x 3/4" (FT) BSF Thread Socket Head Cap Screw / Update: so - it's going to be a #10-32 screw is what you want -- they don't make 3/16... even though that is what fit ... I found some I had in a jar --- screwed in just fine and are STEEL!. Sprayed lubricating oil in both holes...
1 time on my 1977 ford Granada I had a issue similar it wanted to drive itself without throttle being applied almost the same symptom as your running into... Yrs later after doing some research there is a switch I want to say saftey neutral switch if I remember correctly that will cause that issue but don't qoute me it's been along time ago when I researched that issue... Now the idle issue that can have something to do with the iacv. May try the iacv first since its easier to get to. The other thing to is to check any vacuum lines. You could have a major leak somewhere as well. Which in turn will cause the idle to sky rocket like that. Check your booster lines and others.
Those two little hoses connected on top of the throttle come loose also it doesn’t plug and seal correctly and vacuum is let out not necessarily the hoses but the black Piece the hoses are plugged to that plugs to throttle
You got the pcv valve hose going to the intake. The hose under that is the upper radiator hose. An the metal aluminum hose to the intake with 2 bolts is the egr tube.
Yess. i got it figured out, but i was talking about the vaccum system from the throttle body to the air management valve. I honestly for the life of me couldnt find anything on it for hours, but i ended up finding my original emissions sticker under 30 years of grim. Otherwise i just had a dry rotted vaccum line that just disapeared to the backside of my block
Amber & Eric Jones no kidding, i have relatively small thin fingers and i could barley get a good angle on it, On top of that, my camaro used to house a colony of yellow jackets and ive only found a couple but one came out when i had my hand really in there and ooooohhhhhh man, i bashed my head so hard on the hood XD
@@quayl1337 Lol the easiest way that I found is a long curved needle nose pliers. You can get the end of those an push the hose off. I wish they designed these motors differently. Cause its about like mopar in a way on certain things even like getting down to the injectors got to pull all the plenum off just for the injectors crazy
Hey man I can't find where you commented about the iac, my backfires out of the tail pipe, like I said I have 39 psi on the fuel pump, you said to test something else, but I forgot what you said
Fuel pressure regulator under the upper intake plenum. Looks like a round saucer with a rubber hose coming off it. You'll be able to see it. Passenger side
Should be in the same spot should be. Relay for fan I believe is next to the fuel pump relay. By the booster. Booster fuel pump relay an I think its the relay next to it...
@@cliffordjasway6817 yw its been awhile since ive made videos ill be updating a new video of the car soon gonna be installing suspension components. I need to make a video of the fan relay to show ppl where its located. I figured there would have been videos of that.
@@cliffordjasway6817 you can also unplug the fan. And run a jumper wire from the fan to the battery and also test to see if you fans kick on. If they do fans are good. Then at that point need to figure out is it relay related thermostate related. Etc or possible short or something in the wire. Or a fusiable link also I think ive done it before you can use a paper clip and jump acrossed after removing the relay. And also see if the fans will kick on. Might have been the fuel pump I done that with. Been a while.
@@uhhadriansanchez2898 and I have a video of it running, after doing the timing components. All this work of getting it running it's now just cranking. I'm thinking compression has something to do with it. I know it's getting fuel and spark . Compression is low causing some issues. So either I'ma rebuild this engine since I've spent the time to replace all the parts that were needing it. So yuuup now is tearing it down 😁
@@cliffordjasway6817 either its going to be throttle position sensor or the one above it. Theres also a plate on top of the throttle body. If there is a leak there it will cause it to get too much air flow an bog the engine down an die
i replace mine, i broke one if the bolts so it just has one bolt, anyways i believe my car just have really bad gas in it, when checking the fuel pressure, it has really yellow fuel, so i must have had put in so bad gas in it. could that cause it not to start or giving me low fuel psi?
@@rogerramsey8307 smoked cigs back when I was 13 I'm 30 now. I got to the point of getting tired of smelling stale smoke in my vehicles. Man it stunk. Now since i made the switch to vape an been strong on it for 2 yrs. If somebody is smoking thats not even all that close to me I can smell it. Reminds me not to go back to it.
