The complete process of replacing the pick up coil in the distributor, including removal and installation of the cam gear. (update) use OEM p/n E9TZ-12A112-A ($50-$60) The aftermarket one lasted less then a year.
Like I do with motor Cycle Cranks and bearing I always use Air Duster when installing bearings I freeze them with the Air duster, then I heat up the cases and they drop in. You made this Video very enjoyable to watch. Thanks for sharing.
RobbieRay .. .thanks so much for taking the time to capture and share this with other Ford lovers out here in TV land! Like you, I rebuilt the distributor on a 289 back in the day... Thanks for the heads up on the seal. Will get one of those ordered.
Thanks for the great video! As soon as you started talking, I thought “this guy sounds like everyone I know” then I saw the Deharts and Sons jacket and realized we’re probably neighbors haha. I grew up with a handful of the Deharts. Great video. Thanks again!
Glad it helped you out. Iv'e done it many times this way with no problems. Just be careful not to overheat the gear. Good luck with your repair. Rob...
@@robbieraychannel did you use your original gear? I am not sure if mine is steel or not, and am thinking of just reusing it, I don't see any unusual wear to it
Thanks so much for this video. I spent an entire day trying to find that seal but didn't have a part number. Measured out the shaft and bore and the only seals I could find were at least a week out. With the part numbers you gave, I was able to find the seal in stock at my local Grainger.
what a great video, well-done sir. You're absolutely right about being pickier as you get older. thanks for this video. I didn't know about the seal you had to find you saved a lot of people time with that. again Thanks.
Nice video ! I had no idea that's how they were assembled. Thanks for taking the time to show the whole assembly. I hope I never have to do it. But I do have all the tools. And now I know how to do it ! Thank you !
Great video. I'm getting ready to change the PIP in my 460 distributor and this video will help a lot with doing that. I was surprised to see that there wasn't any type of bearing in the bottom of the housing, just a seal. And thanks for showing the p/n of the seal and what would fit to replace it.
I'm hoping the video helps you out when you do your's. Keep in mind there are some bronze bushings inside of the distributor housing, so put some grease on them and the shaft when you reassemble. Good luck with your rebuild. Rob....
Great job! I'm getting ready to do this on my 95 F-150 4.9l. Mine was hard to diagnose as it was intermittent. Whenever I would get my Fluke hooked up to check PIP signal, it would work fine; then leave me stalled on side of road. I finally caught it messing up and pretty sure PIP is bad! Thank you.
wooow what a ton of detailed work, excellent video bro. your right others dont even show that internal vacuum advance because dealing with it is a huge hassle. now i see all thats required to pull it out. wow. no wonder guys just replace the whole distributer...that in itself is also a huge hassle and very detailed. thanks a ton for all the tips
Just dealt with this issue on my 94 bronco. It can have you chasing all over the place and throwing parts at the thing if you aren’t careful. Luckily I only went as far as a coil before realizing this was the actual issue. It fell flat on its face going up my driveway, but hey at least mine broke down at home! 😆 great video.
Too FUNNY... my '94 Bronco 5.8L died right in front of my driveway on my birthday while I was letting my wife get out with dinner in hand. It was the second car to die that day. At least it wasn't too bad pushing it up the driveway where I could work on it as I get time.
wow you are thorough. thanks for the added information. my intuition tells me that buying a top quality distributor would be the best move for me. the tolerances are negligible. you're just SUPER OVER careful. if i messed up my oil pump with a distributor replacement I love my truck and i would fix it all. you gotta figure your time vs cost and make your choice. you spent like 20 extra hours just to MAYBE avoid an oil pump replacement. your awesome for showing all the extra detail tho i wish youtube paid you more for your videos.
What is a push start ? Versus standard start for the ignition control modular ? I have no idea what they're referring to unless they're referring to a push button ignition, but that does not make sense to me cuz they did not have a push button ignition in these older vehicles. So what am I missing here ?
Thanks for the video. I am about to attempt this myself. Getting code 211 PIP circuit failure. I’m guessing I should probably invest in the Harbor Freight gear puller. Looks like something that may come in handy in the future. Thanks again!
Thank you for a straight forward non hype video to replace the PIP sensor !! You are the ONLY one that shows the whole process. Also was looking on BRONCO ZONE for but can’t find the printed page you have of the three TFI diagrams at the beginning of your video. Can you tell me how to find it at Bronco Zone or send me a copy, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks for your time, your video makes this job pretty easy when you see all the steps. Keep up the great work.
@@robbieraychannel Thanks Robbie for quick reply. You’re the man! I found it but couldn’t print it, probably due to not being a member. I’m restoring my (original owner)1997 F250HD 5.8 XLT 4x4 and that diagram is invaluable due to ford having wrong info on the ICM /TFI. This is more proof I need the BLACK CCD version. Ford and distributors keep insisting I need the gray “push start” version. NOT!! You have a new subscriber. Thanks again for making a difference with a great video and great demeanor. 🇺🇸👍
Lol, Thanks I've been working on stuff since I was a little kid. Mostly because my dad was a mechanic. At the same time I always try to remember that experience is nothing more then mistakes already made. The tricky part is not to repeat those same mistakes again.
One thing i want to touch upon is that you didnt verify alignment of the gear placement as the gear has an odd amount of teeth and by reinstalling the gear 180* off you change when the injectors spray into each cylinder by 12* and cant be corrected by twisting the distributor due to the fact that the small vane in the reluctor is specifically timed for the true 10* BTDC which is exactly when the injector needs to spray in relation to the valve.. I use a dollar store single burner to heat the gears up.........Your distributor has the steel gear because your engine has a roller camshaft.....The way to tell is whether you have the TFI module on the distributor or the one on the fender...The one on the fender is a roller cam engine..
Huh! Interesting info. I'll take a closer look next time I do one. Funny because I have done several of these throughout my career and never had a timing problem before. Could it be possible that I got lucky every time. I guess anything is possible.....I like the burner idea, less chance of overheating......
measure the od of the shaft and the od of the seal and the thickness of the seal, and google those dimensions. places like o rings and more sell seals by the size.
I just beat the hell out of mine to get the gear and collar off. Kinda mushroomed the other end getting it back on. Had to sand it down so the spinny bit would go back on. One of the roll pins got screwed up too so I had to use a tension pin. Hope I didn’t ruin it.
Those things can really be on there tight. I hope yours is going to be okay but keep in mind that gear runs on your camshaft and the bottom of the distributor shaft with the hex key shaped hole runs your oil pump so if it's really questionable you might want to consider getting another one in case something comes apart and does internal damage. best of luck with it. Rob....
@@WalterMelons it could be bent a little but as long as it doesn't wobble so bad that the rotor hits the inside of the distributor cap I think it will be okay
@@robbieraychannel yeah I spun it when it was back together and the flange the rotor sits on is a little off kilter but it spins fine and doesn’t hit the stator. I’ll keep my fingers crossed and if it runs poorly after getting the timing right I may end up getting another from a junkyard. A timing light should be coming from Amazon today so we’ll see. 🤞
Ben yes you do need to disassemble the shaft to replace the p i p sensor and yes it does fix code 212 however you can buy a complete aftermarket distributor for about$120 just be sure to put the engine in time before removing the old distributor. Check some videos on how to do this
Deuce usually that doesn't work because the gear and shaft will grow from the heat at the same time, therefore not allowing the gear itself to become any looser. This can work on seized nuts because you can quickly heat one side of the nut with a oxy/acetylene torch to make the nut expand. But you wouldn't want to put that hardened gear through any kind of abuse like that and damage it's tempering.
That’s hard to say Mike usually when something stalls out like that it’s probably not idling very well in the first place might want to start checking simple things like vacuum leaks or go online and learn how to pull the fault code for ODB one systems by reading the flashes on the engine light I would start from there
@@robbieraychannel I'm getting a code reader in a few days. I've started to check vac lines, and have some tests to do that I've seen on the tube. Thanks for the response and I'll update what I find out. Great instructional video, sir definitely a great help.
Hey Mike just keep in mind that your truck is a obd 1 system the newer odb 2 scanners won't work unless they are very high end ones. Autozone sells a Innova odb 1 scanner for Fords for $29.99. You can also read the codes by jumping out certain terminals on the odb 1 plug found under the hood, drivers side, on the fender nearer to the windshield. But keep in mind reading the codes by counting the engine light flashes is a real pain. I have seen it throw a phantom code just because the heater switch was on at the time of the test. You tube has tons of videos on how to run the test. Good luck. Rob...
Yes you can but there is some concern with the drive gear matching the gear on your camshaft perfectly. There is even three different gears that were used on those engines. That's why sometimes it's a safer bet to use your existing distributor
@@robbieraychannel.... Well, my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck has a severe "Squeak " coming from the Distro...A commenter on another RU-vid video said it could be the bearing...I used a Harbor freight Stethoscope and sho' nuff its squeaking like a flock of baby birds...My question is...How do you change the bearing out...???... What tools and what part # for the bearing...???... Thanks in advance, sir...😊😊😊
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking but I think you were asking what is the piece that I put into the bottom of the distributor to pull the gear in that case it was a quarter inch Allen socket should be able to find one at just about any auto parts store
Steve that is a great question. usually if I'm trying to remove something that is going to be thrown away like a bearing race stuck on an axle or something like that. I would heat one side very quickly red-hot with an oxy acetylene torch so that it expands but if you do that to something like that gear you could risk damage to the gear. if you heat the whole gear equally than both pieces the gear and the shaft will expand at the same time and it will virtually almost do you no good.
PS. I probably didn't make it very clear in the video but the goal here is to be very careful how you treat that gear. if you were to accidentally overheat it there is a chance that you could make the steel soft or brittle. if the teeth on that gear break or come apart it could damage the gear on the camshaft inside your engine and then you would have a even bigger problem
@@robbieraychannel you made it clear to be careful not to go over 500 Degrees. I just figured gentle heating would make it come off a little bit easier. Well I decided to do both, buy a new distributor and rebuild my old one. Every brand of distributor I look at seems to have problems and it looks like it's a roll of the dice. Even the very expensive MSD seems to have its share of bad reviews. I decided to go with WAI from O'Reilly's because it's reasonably priced and I can't seem to find any reviews at all. So I guess I will be the guinea pig and I will get the parts to rebuild my old one at the same time. Wish me luck🤔
Steve, I hear you on that one usually a little bit of heat makes everything come apart a bit easier. it's just because it's a heat-treated gear that makes me a little bit leery of subjecting it to any more abuse than it absolutely has to be. maybe something like a heat gun wouldn't be too bad. if you try that let me know in the comments if it works out for you. thanks for posting and good luck with it. Rob.......
Actually the line I made ended up not being that necessary because if you heat the Gear to about 500 Degrees you will have about three to five seconds of time where you can still line it up. the more important thing is to make sure you have some kind of pin punch or a nail or something that fits fairly snugly in the roll pin hole so that you can line it up quickly before it cools. Then of course after it cools completely you can put the original roll pin back in
How did it work out for you any running issues? I did my sensor today I just have to press on the gear and put one pin in it’s a little time consuming but it fills nicer than any after market distributor! Good looks on the video I been a mechanic by trade since 93 when I graduated high school it’s been tough keeping up with technology these vehicles are getting very complex
Okay with the distributor plug disconnected put the black meter lead on the distributor metal base for a ground set the meter to 20K ohms both green wires measured 18.52 ohms the red wire measures 16.46 ohms and all the black wires are grounds
@@robbieraychannel Awesome thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm trying to track down an issue with my truck, has an active 565 (unrelated) and memory 212 code. It randomly is hard to start and keep running but after a few minutes it runs and starts fine. I have 2 videos on my channel.. really has me stumped
I am looking for a video that shows me how to remove and install it and that’s what your says but in all honesty I don’t see that anywhere in your video. Can you please point me to a video that you did where you’re actually taking it out and putting it back in? Versus one where you’re just sitting here changing parts on it.
The video that I made was focused on removing the gear on the bottom of the distributor and putting it back on because this is what most people struggle with you should be able to find videos for installing a distributor into the engine pretty easily but sorry I don't have one prepared
robbieray I need a new Pickup coil for my 1993 351W (not lightning) but I can only find the rotorcraft DU50 Pickup coil which is only for the lighting. will this work in my truck? I don't want to get anything but motorcraft. Thank you
CJ usually when the PIP sensor fails it fails suddenly and completely, but of course it is possible to be your problem. I would definitely rule out all of the simple things first such as plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and even vacuum leaks there is also an ignition module that is easier to change out than the PIP sensor. Sounds crazy but these engines are so known for ignition problems that I keep a spare distributor with a new pip sensor in it and a spare ignition module on hand at all times LOL. You can get an aftermarket duralast distributor for about 100 bucks. Just be sure that the distributor gear is exactly the same as your distributor was or you could damage the gear on your camshaft. Good luck with it. Rob.....
@@hendricks177 yes they can the usual symptom for them is once the heat up they fail and the truck won't run but then it will restart when it cools down. One thing I forgot to mention. You could have a stuck open EGR valve. That will make the engine run like absolute crap at idle.
@@robbieraychannel I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 and it's running rough misfire bad. Likes it struggling for air or fuel or something. Everything i put on it is new. MAP sensor. Purge valve. EGR sensor. TPS. Spark plugs. Spark plug wires. Distributor cap and rotor. Idle air control valve. Fuel injectors. Air filter. Ignition coil. ICM. Fuel pressure regulator. And still running crappy. Not run smoothly.
@@hendricks177 wow I see your problem. looks like you had to throw the house at this thing. Keep in mind that the EGR valve is not the same as the EGR sensor. The valve on older trucks looks a little bit like a flying saucer. Some of the old ones have a gap underneath that you can stick your fingers up under there and push up on the diaphragm. in a working system this should make it run like crap when you do that. But of course it could already be stuck. Another thing I forgot to mention. Not sure if yours has a catalytic converter. But I have seen before on vehicles where someone tried everything else. And it ended up that the cat. came apart inside and clogged the exhaust system. One of the symptoms for this is you will actually hear a hissing sound if you pay close attention. And It will also run badly and have no power. One easy way to check this is to take the O2 sensor out of the hole which will relieve some of the pressure. The one before the cat if it has it. If it runs better like that it is likely plugged.
