I have a 1993 Toyota Dolphin RV and this is the engine it uses. Looking to do all k can do to simplify it for durability so these vids help. Thanks a ton.
That's the best looking 3vze I've ever seen. Like you said, still kind of an ugly motor but much less so. Really cleans up the tubing nightmare and should make maintenance easier and more fun. I think I know what the next upgrade on my 1st gen 4runner is going to be. Thanks for sharing!
Love it. I'm working on replacing valve cover gaskets, that led to having the upper intake cleaned twice by a machine shop. Wich now is leading to me wanting to take lower intake of and do the same. So while I'm there might just as well replace knock sensor and do the egr delete. Yours is thus far the most complete delete. Love the practicality and all the useless stuff gone.
Dude, this looks soooo clean! Congrats! Can I just ask you two things quick? Do you have any issues with the engine running after the EGR delete, overheating? What are the blue coolant hoses - are they specific for the model or cut and bend diy?
I like how it looks lot better. Knock senser don't let anyone talk you into a cheap one and don't forget you knock wire 120 at Napa fir the senser it works perfectly. Wires been there for 25 years to. Yours will be easier because of all the useless crap you got ride of. Nock wire was 20 good guarentee after all the labor you do. Great job!
Sweet video! Any issues vapor locking the rails when trying to hot start after removing the VSV? (Red vacuum switch in the gang of 3 switches you completely removed and tucked the wires under the fuse box)
I do but i put the switch back in and found zero difference. I ran a switch where i can prime the pump a few seconds on them days and it cranks fine then
Alright, a lady here. I need some help with my 94 4runner. We just had to replace the wiring harness. The new/used wiring harness was in great condition all plug ends looked great. Now my starter isn't responding. I'm not sure if i have a bad ground or what. We get clicking from the purple relay and a click sound from the computer. The starter is new, and previously worked. I'm stuck as to what to try next. The battery is also good. The starter is getting power it was tested with a meter. Can you tell me where the ground points are. Or link me to a diagram.
Brother how did you get the bolts off the two lower 12 mm for each valve or the EGR. Where the two lower block plates go ? I’m having hell getting to them. Your engine bay looks good
I am confused about the heater core hot water return. My truck has the line go to the back of the plenum on the passenger side, then under the plenum through the steel piping (which you removed) to the front and into the water outlet on the front of the engine that goes to the top of the radiator. Some engines like yours do not have the extra hose nipple on the water outlet to receive the water from the heater core. So I am not sure what to do with the heater hose? I guess I need to run a hose from the firewall to the front of the engine into the water outlet.
hello I did the egr delete and the engine runs smoother and I feel the truck running more agile as if I was running with a large load on the truck before egr delete, but now man what a difference, but the only complaint is that I see the truck running with poor gas mileage. Did you Get the same issue low gas mileage after the egr delete?
Howzit going, I’m about to tackle this EGR delete on my toy 1995 3.0 4Runner. I was wondering all the hose and stuff are the same as your 1995 3.0 pick up to my 1995 3.0 4Runner? Also what happens when the fuel pressure that you completely took off? Where did that go?
Fuel pressure has been fine. Most that stuff is egr junk. The only difference with the pickup and the 4 runner is that some of the 4 runners have a rear heater.
Under your dash, connected to the brake pedal bracket is a relay labeled Fuel Pump. (Doesn't exist in any wiring diagrams I've found cuz smog shit) From studying the diagrams though, I was able to discern that the ecm uses this relay, the o2 sensors, and a vsv to control fuel rail pressure via vacuum. 😳 So, with yours directly connected to the manifold, what kind of MPG are you getting? Also, what difference did the delete make for you besides a cleaner engine bay? More power? More consistent power delivery? What's the pros and cons man. Been contemplating doing this for a minute but as a mechanic I know that the egr actually keeps exhaust gass temps cooler by reducing oxygen intake, which is actually beneficial for keeping these engines running a bit cooler. But seeing as how I relocated the crossover tube and have a 3 core aluminum radiator, I may not need the egr anymore for that reason.
I've been told that the EGR is actually intended to cool the combustion temperatures, -- reducing the intake volume of combustible gases by increasig the intake percentage of non combustible gases (exhaust.) How is it running on heat? Are you running Catless? ALSO: The Exhaust Crossover (Heat near the 5th and 6th Cylinders) is believed to be the primary cause of failing head gaskets on this engine. .. As well as the coolant temperature and other electrical connectors just behind the manifold... Will you be swapping the Headers (Crossover Delete?)
I know all about how the egr works but with this 3vze we won't have any issues there. It won't get hot enough to be an issue. As far as the headers go i don't drive my truck enough to worry about it
I looked into deleting the EGR for a couple years and talked to a lot of people before I moved foward with it. None of which have ever had any issues with the EGR delete onnthe 3vze and some have put tens of thousands or more miles on them. Hope this helps
Mine is 4x4. Main thing is checking with your state laws. TN doesn't have emissions. As far as issues, the LCE kit comes with resistors to delete the code and other than that EGR bolts and parts can be difficult to remove where they seize up
It's quiet. When I was using the ebay cold air it sounded awful. But the way I have it now it's quiet. Just easier to remove if I want to work on the truck. No issues. Runs great
What about the coolant outlet line that is in that mess of hardlines? mine has a coolant line that goes to the wateroutlet. yours has a completely different looking outlet cap there.
It's the thickness of that coolant line that seems to be the problem. I wonder if the largest of fuel lines might be a good option... Whenever I'm under the hood, I just keep forgetting to follow where it connects to on the other end of the metal spaghetti mess.
It will get a code but the LCE kit comes with 2 different resistors. The right one for your truck will eliminate this. As far as emissions Tennessee has no expectation. some states don't worry as much about older vehicles, Especially OBD1 and back. But always check with your state laws
