Please do not ask any questions about the ECU. You can clearly see that I don't do anything with the ECU. The engine is only .1 liters more that would not effect anything. You can also see in the video that I changed all the parts over from the original engine to the new one.
Yeah I agree with you. The normal H22A4 ECU should be able to run an H23A no problem. Of course it shouldn't be revved as high and your fueling with be a tiny bit lean but overall it doesn't need to be addressed in order to make it work.
@@numberpirate No it will not run lean. It won't effect anything like I said. .1 litters is nothing. If you have the original engine rebuilt and bored it will be bigger than that.
Thanks a lot for this video man, I couldn't have done my engine swap without it, especially the tip about using the curved piece of metal for the timing tensioner. Amazing video with great tips
Always good when you can knock out preventative repairs like those heater hoses at the same time. You make this stuff look easy though. I'd have struggled with this. Best wishes, Tom Z
L&L welding and fabrication This car I did a lot of extra stuff to it , So I won't have to work on it for a long time. Im doing another engine replacement tomorrow. LOL. I didn't really want to do that many of them all together.
Got some good notes on the timing. Doing my 1st head gasket ever on mine and am about to pull timing belt, I'll double check with the marks you mentioned for the balancer, it's not mentioned in the service manual. Thanks for sharing
Awesome job ken..wish you lived close..I'd let you do my mechanic work LOL. I know some things but not the real tech things. Most of the time I can figure out a problem. I have an oil leak on a 2002 montero xls that Ive had for about 4 years. I've changed upper cam seals when we did the timing belt. Changed the back upper cam seal on passenger side. Changed oil sending unit as it was leaking but it still has a leak that I cannot find where it's coming from. Maybe from the oil cooler and I have no clue where it's at. I've looked and looked so but I'll figure it out eventually. It has high mileage but runs like a new car. No smoking etc so I dont think it's using oil.
The preventive maintenance is such a wonderful tip. I got my dream 5th Gen prelude and im rebuilding it now, just got my trans and engine tomorrow. hope this build goes well. so nervous!
Thanks. I might put another Prelude together in a few months. Since that one is now totaled sitting in my backyard after a girl made a left hand turn right in front of me in July of last year. I’m still dealing with her insurance company.
Thanks for the video , it helped me out a lot . I’m doing the exact job to an automatic 98 prelude and this was a life saver on some questions I had , only one i found that made sense !
Sorry for the double comment but did you also install oil squirters in the h23? really contemplating this swap in my 2001. I've done tons of research but your video was the best thing so far because I could actually see it. But to recap the video use everything from my H22 except exhaust manifold. Did you rebuild your old head before reuse? Any parts preferences? Any tips would be awesome. Video was tons of help!
I just recently did my swap and my crank pulley is wobbling really bad? I torqued down to spec and it rounded my crank pulley. I bought a new crank pulley and key but it still rounded
Nice! I also do motor swaps and repairs for a living now, looking to get a Prelude that needs a motor and do the very same thing as you, and de-rice it as most Preludes here are the very same, owned by teen, ruined with rice, run out of oil from one leaky seal.
great video, i just finish replacing my 1997 honda prelude h22 with an h23 and my car has a rough idle and seems like its not getting gas into the injectors or something. ill already check for timing and everything lines up..any ides
Hey how did you do the rear mount? We are trying to put our engine back in but the rear engine mount is being real stubborn. What order did you put the mounts in. we are trying to do front, then rear, then both sides. Should we try something different?
Learned a lot from all your videos , especially this one . Since I’m using all the old parts from the h22 engine , when replacing the spark plugs and wires am I getting them for an h23 or h22 engine ?
You probably made a mention of this but I guess I need more clarification...i have the exact same project. I'm stuck with the crankshaft sensor plugs. I have 3 of them with the distributor. How do I remap the wires and plugs?
So im in the middle of this swap right now 99 prelude car had a blown h23a allready in it when i got it on a trade so i bought a new h23a got it all in there and now realized the crank an oil pumps diff is it best to switch pumps or is it possible to use jdm distributor amd wire into the harness
I have a 97 prelude base model with sport shift and wanting to jdm 5 speed swap, any suggestions on which 5 speed and I'm planning to turbo and vtec killer cams. Thats basically how I'm going with this 400-500 whp. Any suggestions would be cool. Thanks
Question , I assume you had to transfer all the working parts from the h22 to h23 , did you use the distributor and intake manifold from the old engine also ?
Do you have the oil pump part number cause I'm doing a swap on my 99 lude but the h22 oil pump doesn't work good but I cannot find the right one for my h23 blue top
The ports always get clogged for these h22, f22 motors p0401 code comes up around 100k to 160k miles. It's normal absolutely nothing you can do to prevent this...except delay it by using 91 octane fuel. I really enjoyed your thorough rebuild video.
What’s the benefit of having the vtec h23 vs the h22? Same hp factory. will the slightly larger displacement take on more hp after similar modifications?
Was your timing belt super tight? I just did this swap with a new h22 timing belt and it was a pain to get on. When I start the engine I get a whining noise coming from the timing belt, I think its because its to tight.
Great video, I just had the same thing done to the exact same car with the same engine as well. But have a issue. I changed the oil pump and swapped over the old sensors and now my oil light is on. It wasn't on with the stock engine and we have changed the oil pressure sensors 3 times with the same issue. But the car has enough oil and we have started it up and it runs fine. What should i do or where should i start to troubleshoot. If you can help just let me know.
andrew garcia The first thing you would have to do is hook a oil pressure gauge up to it and see if your getting oil pressure. Snap On and other companies make a tool kit for doing that , it comes with a gauge and a bunch of adapters that screw in the block where the sending unit would normally go. That will tell you if you have a mechanical problem or a problem with the gauge in the dash.
It’s not from an Accord. Its a JDM engine from Japan. Pretty much the same thing as the H22A4 except it has a tiny little bit more stroke to it. That’s the reason for being .1 litters bigger.
Can you part a parts list please I’m doing this exact project rn as we speak , what do I transfer from my old H22 to my H23 , what aftermarket parts do I buy, what type of damper was that again ?
Hey bro. You’ve helped me out with question appreciate it. Got h23a running and starts up like a champ in 5th Gen. one issue I have is that when I step on gas pedal it dies immediately. Any help on why it does? I’m going to do ignition timing on Saturday and see if that why. Thank you!!
1970chevelle396 not at the moment. Haven’t driven it yet since if I drive it it might jsut die once I step on gas lol. But thanks appreciate your feedback. Without you video I wouldn’t have be able to do this!!!! Helped a lot of people out with this swap !
Im sorry to bother again lol ive asked you for help before. I had another question i was hoping you can help with. I finally got the h23a installed in my 1998 prelude type sh..but the car wont rev above 3k rpms. Any thoughts on this?
issue had to do something with the throttle position sensor not being aligned right because of the oil pump i purchased from rock auto. im glad after almost 6 years of my prelude sitting...i finally drove it for the first time today. i really like the h23a. i purchased mine from hmotorsonline and it came with 42,000 miles on it. purrs like a kitten
You're a pro, starts up right away after dropping it in. What were all those warning lights on the dash after startup? Was one of them the check engine? Wish you had done a 1 hour long video on this since it is such valuable information.
Hi I just wanted to know if you felt any difference between the h23a and USDM h22a4 in terms of acceleration and over all feel? Does it burn as much oil as a h22a4?
Sovan Sao The ECU that was in the car originally stays in the car. You have to put all the parts from the original engine onto the new engine. Only the exhaust manifold on the new engine was the same and didn't need to be changed over.
Hey are you still active on here? I have a few questions about the timing stuff. I just did the same swap into my 01 prelude, and the timing belt automatically goes inward towards the engine to the point it’s touching. I swapped over everything touching the timing belt from a new timing belt kit for the h22a4. Would you have any idea why it’s doing this? Nothing is bent, everything is aligned.
@@1970chevelle396 yes I know, but an idea would help. There’s not much to it if everything is proper and aligned. Could come down to not enough tension etc. Most time a loose belt is not enough tension.
Men, u have the measure of the valve adjustment of the H23A? I got it 17-19, (intake-exhaust) , but its not the factory adjustment, and i can't find it anywhere
Yo I plan on doing a swap on my prelude. Debating on getting the jdm h22a or h23a. I’m in Jsut worried about the crank sensors and all that shit you gotta swap on the oil pump. I live 40 min away from Sacramento
Hey buddy, thanks for the great video.............I have a 1997 Prelude with 120,000 miles on it's original 2.2 v-tec, the car has been stored indoors since new during winter and is mint..........I have always wished honda would have put a V6 in the 5 gen .........I am thinking of having a 3.5 v6 accord swap, done at my local honda dealer, i would like to go with all new parts directly from the dealer .......This is an old car i have here , but it is so clean and well looked after, ...it would be worth having done.............I would like to hear your feed back on a V6 swap for my lude.......Good idea or Bad?.........Any advantages and disadvantages on a upgrade such as this i would love to hear back..........Thanks .
HUSKEY BOY I’ve never seen a V6 swap before. I’m sure it would have a lot of power. Here in California I would never do that because of the emissions laws.
Maybe a stupid question but I'm going this swap, and down to mounting the oil pan and trans.. but why does the oil pan from the h22 need to be used on the h23?
I don’t have the part numbers. You would have to look all the parts up. A few of the hoses I had to get from the dealership. The rest of the parts came from regular auto parts stores.
Could you explain to everyone why the sensors crank trigger etc need to be swapped over for JDM OBD1 to USDM OBD2 please? I figured out why my car starts but doesnt run because of you and think you would be able to help alot of people by explaining this.
You have to use the USDM oil pump because the connector on the USDM harness for the crank angle sensor has a different connector than the one on the JDM H23A harness. Also, as he pointed out, you cannot utilize the USDM crank angle sensor on the JDM oil pump, because there is no place to mount the sensor, as the mounting holes are not present on the JDM oil pump. So in short use the USDM oil pump.
I know this video is a little old buti had a question so swapped out my stock 97 prelude engine with a h22 euro r and I got it start up just fine the problem is im getting no oil pressure at all when I remove the oil filter it is completely dry and I did replace the oil pump twice now but still no oil pressure at all any idea to why this might be any suggestions or help is appreciated thanks and very nice clean job on that h23
@@1970chevelle396 thank you very much I figured out the problem I had the usdm oil pan and pick up tube instead of the euro r original pan and pick up tube finally I got oil pressure thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with every one that can very much benefit from it I appreciate your fast response
first off thank you for your informative videos . I think I posted a comment in the wrong area.. sorry if I'm double posting. I have a 1998 Honda Prelude type sh and I'm wanting to do the swap. I was concerned about the axles needed if I buy this engine with a non atts transmission. I've read that I need a base model mid-shaft or intermediate shaft to fit the axles on the type sh with the swapped h23a blue top.. I'm planning on buying the motor from H Motors online and was wondering if that engine comes with the intermediate shaft that I need for the full swap. any help would be gratefully appreciated, thanks in advance
1970chevelle396 thank you for the quick reply. but I have a type sh which means I need to change the transmission due to the atts.. or that's what I understand from what i read online. that is why I'm curious on what axles to use and if they'll even fit on the type sh spindles.. the base model and sh model have different cv axles. I just realized I said "does the engine come with the intermediate shaft " but I meant if the transmission comes with that intermediate half shaft.
1970chevelle396 so the h23a motor fits on the SH tranny? everyone says it doesn't.. supposedly on a type sh you can only use another h22a4 or type s (Japanese) the type sh h22a4 block is different from the base model to accommodate for the ATTS
Hi 1970chevelle396, I am planning to do the same swap you did and I was wondering if you still own the car? Also, did you get rid of all the check engine light and how does the engine behave with the h22a4 ECU? Thanks
Frede Bouchard Theres no issues at all. The only difference with this engine is it’s .1 liters more. Which is almost nothing. Its just not possible to have any kind of issues with it. A whole bunch of people keep asking the same kind of questions. Put all of the original parts on the new engine. The exhaust manifold was the only part I didn’t change because it was the same as the one on the car.
Renato Pequeno If everything is done right. You take it to the smog check referee and they will put a sticker on the door jamb saying what you did is approved.
wilkin trejo I already explained that to you. If your asking this many questions you should not be doing this yourself. When I did it I didn't ask any questions and I didn't look anything up. Only thing was the place that sold me the engine told me the oil pump had to be changed. That way I was able to buy it beforehand.
1970chevelle396 thanks man.mine is automatic.is it a fitment issue?cross member or something.my engine is on the way so I’ll be cracking into this this week.any help I’d be truly grateful.i know you get bombarded with questions.
Hi ken i plan on doing this same job on my prelude, this video is huge help, if i cant do the work myself ill have a shop do it, what would be a fair price for this labor?? Best jesse
Ken can you please help me out Sir? Roughly 4 months ago I found a beautiful 2001 Honda prelude shell. Pay good money for someone to go pick it up in a trailer and bring to me. Currently has H 23 block with H 22 head VTEC. Well my certified technician got the motor put in mined you it took him four months. The motor fires up. An absolutely sounds amazing. The engine pearls. It is a five speed. The acceleration is terrible. She is very slow. Yes VTEC hits around 5200. But I stay out of VTEC due to the poor acceleration. Could you give me any ideas please. I would really really appreciate it and it looks like you did an amazing job on your prelude. Thank you man. thank you so much. By the way, my name is Paul.
Ken, I have a 1998 Honda Prelude. Your video was amazing and very informative! I don't suppose you live in Canada do you, because I would love to have you do a full engine rebuild on my car? It's my baby!
@@1970chevelle396 got it I’m doin the swap now. Oil pan, sprockets, CKP sensors, thermostat housing, full intake, and wiring harness. Am I missing anything?
Only thing you left out was to talk about the LMA lost motion assembly make noise check them while engine is out you have tonpull cams not hard or you might have a honda tick at idle
I took it to the Smog Referee . They put a sticker on the door jamb saying what i did is approved. After that it passes Smog. Only reason I had to do that is because the correct number isn’t stamped into the block and the smog check station saw it.
@@1970chevelle396 thank you! Cause I’m debating whether to go with the H23 or the H22A for my swap since I figured it’s easier than rebuilding my A4. A referee did tell me today that the JDM blocks will qualify as a replacement motor with the newest standards so I’m like trying to get multiple opinions before I pull the trigger
Just make sure you put all the correct parts off of the old engine onto the new one. Then you won’t have any problems. The Referee looked the car over for an hour and couldn’t find one thing wrong. Then he did the old Bar 97 smog test. And it ran very clean.
@@1970chevelle396 I also wanted to ask, if I do what you did here to an F20B motor, transferring everything, you think that’ll still work as well or no? Cause the F20 is significantly cheaper and looks exactly the same as the H22
With the medium pads it wont damage aluminum. I’ve been working as a mechanic for 28 years. I’ve never damaged one yet. Most people use the corse pads. I only use the medium ones.
@@1970chevelle396 OK nice I have been a mechanic for 20 year and work at a machine shop and know what buffer pads do to aluminum speaking out of experience
Hey ken, I'm in Bay area California and I'm doing this exact same swap on my 1997 Prelude from H22A1 to Japanese H23A VTEC . I put motor on most new items as well, but now I have no spark. I tried new distributor and new ignition coil, but the problem continues. What you recommend I do?
@@1970chevelle396 one more question, when you order new parts and seals etc. did you order most new parts from the h22a4 selection on rock auto? or through the 4th gen h23 selection?
You order the parts for the H22A4 . The new engine is not a 4th gen engine. It’s the same as the H22a4 except it has a little bit more stroke to it. That’s why it’s. 1 liters bigger.
1970chevelle396 I have a question for you, you mentioned that the oil pan takes no gasket. I recently replaced with oem gasket and torqued properly to specs. I can see that the oil seeps through. You are apparently experienced on this. Should I get rid of the gasket?
@@1970chevelle396 but they do sell an OEM gasket! I will remove on the next oil change, it is a pain in the ass removing the exhaust, bracing and transmission cover/support on the flywheel, the one you showed in this video. thanks
1970chevelle396 okay I got a type sh 1998 was trying to sell it I bought it as a lemon but recently got it running it's at 152k miles I changed the spark plugs , spark plugs wires , distributor , alternator , and starter. Also have a new timing belt but haven't yet changed that. I keep up with all the maintenance. I'm 17 family tells me to sell it get a better car for college I believe it's reliable and I'm an enthusiast. Just looking for some advice. It's got more cosmetic damage than mechanical anyways do you know how much 98 SH's go for ?
Mason Nickens if it has a manual transmission? Normally $3000 or more depending on the condition. The ones with automatics are cheaper and easier to find.
