99-06 Silverado Torsion Key Lift 

I appreciate it and thanks for watching as well. I tried to explain it thoroughly for everyone.

Thanks. I tried to use a pipe wrench when I was younger on them and failed miserably lol. Luckily a mechanic down the road from where I lived when I was in high school let me borrow his and showed me how to use it. I will never not use that tool. These bars can be dangerous without the proper equipment.

Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?

It seems like it's either grass cutting or dog barking when I film lol

Yeah you can do that. The difference is that the aftermarket keys have more offset and allow for more lift. You may not get as much lift as you want out of the stock keys.

Yes the shocks were longer shocks in my kit. If you kit came with the extensions then you can use your original shocks

You do not have the bars, just springs. The torsion bars are the springs in this truck, so no springs are needed. Is your truck two wheel drive?

@@operationoverhaul correct I don’t have any torsion bars just springs and shocks. I’m trying to figure out how this guy has his truck lifted. I don’t see any spacers or anything. I have a really rough ride, so I’m assuming the shocks I mean springs are overrated for the vehicle.

@@AngelHernandez-lv7xy I would suspect lift springs on it. If it is a rough or stiff ride then you could have the spring rate off like you said. The are at to high of a spring rate.

@@operationoverhaul OK so there is such a thing as a l lift spring, and that would make sense

He had it aligned after he picked it up and the alignment shop said that his caster pretty good but it had about 2 degrees to much positive camber. They were able to fix it though and then it had no issues.

No you do not need longer tie rods or shocks as this lift was not high enough to demand that. The shocks were very worn but the customer did not want to replace them at this time.

You should be able to hit it from the front on the control arm as well to brake it free. Then you can clean the areas and it should slide forward easier without the need for an air hammer.

@@operationoverhaul Ok thanks! I didn't even think of that. I'm in rust free Mississippi so I'm hoping it won't bad. I'm actually removing RC lift keys that the previous owner installed and returning to stock keys.

what kind of wheel pulley?

That is weird. Where did you get them from?

@@operationoverhaul they go to my vehicle but they don’t sit flush at all

@@toxico6411 is there a way you can send me a picture of them to my email?

@@operationoverhaul I got them on, it’s all good now but the driver side sits a little higher if I crank them up all the way

@@toxico6411 I have noticed that the driver side tends to do that on a lot of them. I'm glad you got them on.

I advised the customer that he will need to put different ball joints in it or he will be changing them more often. He said he would do it when the ball joints wear out the first time. He since sold the truck now though.

Thank you. I appreciate the view and kind words.

If I remember correctly, I am thinking 33's are the biggest you can go with the 3". Someone may chime in before I get back to you but I am going to call my buddy because he does a lot of lifted trucks and he should have a definitive answer.

These are Rough Country 1.5 - 2 inch leveling keys. The sku/part number is 7592. They were decent quality.

It should be two keys. Each torsion bar had a key. Do you have the part number and I can look it up and see what the kit contains?

I lived in New York for about 5 or 6 years and I feel you on that. Those keys are a nightmare to get out on a northern truck.

Lol oh no. If it was from the rust belt I would have been heating and beating. Even here in the south, I was shocked at how easy these came out.

@@operationoverhaul I don’t have to deal with this often. Have to swap a frame every now and then. I never get that fortunate! All the ones I do are good ol Midwest rusty turds lol! I get to tackle one this week. Not look forward to it!

The bolt actually threads into a block nut but to remove the block you are probably going to need to cut the rest of the bolt almost flush with the block nut on the top. So you need to use the torsion tool to take tension off of the block nut and see if you can get something in there to cut it or try to torch it, carefully, so you can pull it out and replace the bolt and nut together.