I was going to say something smart about how easy that looked, but I have far too much respect for the O/P to even hint at anything other than what a fantastic tech/human being he is. Thanks again for another helpful insightful tip.
Changing a 2001 f250 superduty this morning. absolutely spot on video! Great job. 30 mins to swap them out. Hardest part was the blend door actuator 3rd screw. It doesnt need to come out, twist your actuator 6 oclock to the 5 oclock position,wiggle. If your clips under hood wont release, then go back under dash, cut the necks off core with tin snips. Remove core. Use a 22 mm wrench slide over the necks to straighten them out, this will allow to pull thru firewall, then go back under hood pull them through, flip the hose connections towards the alternator to reach those pesty old dry plastic clips. Slide a teeny screwdriver (2) through the sides, pry up lightly, twist & pull the necks free from hoses. Now go goof off for an hour!!!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I tried and tried to get the quick connect hoses to release and finally gave up. I used a small pneumatic reciprocating saw and cut through heater core pipes from inside the cabin. The saw when through the aluminum pipes like hot knife through butter. Then I pulled the cut off pieces, still connected to the hoses, through the firewall. Once I had them out, then I was able see how to release the clips and remove the sawed off pipe ends from the hoses. The upside of all this was that I was able to salvage and reuse the quick connects.
Most mechanics you talk to will tell you the dashboard has to be removed but i n my many years of changing heaters cores in different cars you just have to basically remove anything around the access panel that will impede the heater core from coming out and getting stuck. cool video, my bro in laws e150 didnt have heat over the weekend and we were on a road trip upstate NY and it was minus 13 luckily i have a friend that has a shop by were we were traveling and used his shop, some compressed air and reverse blew the heater core, of course carefully since they are so delicate, a lot of crap came out, hoses back on and his heat was so good he now had to back off the temp since it came out super hot. this is of course if the heater core is plugged only not leaking. good video.
This is a great video. I was debating about replacing mine just because it is getting old, and after watching this video, along with a new heater core at my local discount auto parts store that ONLY cost $35, it was a no brainer. I'll replace it while I am also changing out my anti-freeze this fall.
Enigma Wyoming Now that I have my heater core in, four days later, I wanted to come back and say I was really, really disappointed your video basically showed how to do the easy stuff, and never even mentioned the stuff I had problems with. Removing the hoses was a real pain and I ended up calling my mechanic to make a house call to take them off. It was hard to try and figure out how to do something I couldn't see or even get two hands in to work on it. Your video skipped right over when it came to removing the heater core actuator, and now I know why. You never showed taking the actuator off by squeezing the retainer pins, especially the back one was not only a pain but a surprise because you never even mentioned them, so I had no idea what I was dealing with. Then to remove the heater core actuator tray, there were more 5/16" screws out of sight and not easy to find. Seriously dude, it is better to not have any sort of video at all than it is to have one that does not address the things one would encounter because I thought I was going crazy when you just simply say "remove the actuator" like it was a "pull it out no big deal" and eventually it was the biggest deal of the whole project. Think about that next time you post a DIY video ... better to stay quiet than it is to give false impressions, or completely leave out the hard stuff that is necessary while leaving people scratching their head wondering what the f### is going wrong. Thumbs DOWN for this one ... sorry. All you did was show people how to do the obvious, and leave a false impression of what the task really entailed.
+Enigma Wyoming This video isn't about removing the hoses, it's about removing the core. Hoses are in other videos. You should leave this stuff to the professionals. You dolt.
Thank you. I appreciate this video. Several people told me I had to remove the entire dash to put the heater core in. They made it sound like such a big deal. One guy offered me a good deal, or at least so he said because he was a friend of mine. He was only going to charge me $350. Are you kidding me?! It took you like 10 minutes. I think there was a little bit of editing in your video so maybe it took you 20 or 30, Im not sure. At any rate, it was a good video. The only thing is, I am excellent at following directions, but I am not a mechanic. So, the actuator and those other things you took out at first, I have no idea what those are. If possible in the future, get in there and film the taking out of everything for us guys who haven't done this before. I've never removed the heater core but I feel confident that I can after watching this video. I just wish it was more detailed so I would know exactly what those things are. Since the camera never moves it's hard to tell exactly what you're doing. I'm sure I will figure it out, it would just be easier for me and I'm sure hundreds of other people if we could see what you were doing inside the glove box area. I'm not complaining. I seriously and sincerely appreciate this video. Are you going to buy my heater core today for $50. You saved me 300. Thanks again man.
$350 is a good deal for your average heater core, because 99% of them do require entire dash removal. these fords are the only easy ones. your friend probably wasnt aware that the job was this light, and if he is a good friend, would have charged you less once he saw how simple it was.
Oof. Yeah, I’m about to do this with my F550, and I was scared to death until I saw how accessable things are… The last two I did… *shudder*. Well, the 1985 Chev G30 van was A NIGHTMARE. A 2001 Taurus, while not terrible, it did mean I had to shift the dash. Fortunately, that’s only two bolts, adn if you’re carefull, you loosen one side, remove the bolt on the other, and the whole dash swings out onto the seat, and you can get behind it. The two clamps on the engine side of the firewall, on the other hand...
Thanks for making this video. It's not like my truck, but did help. I especially like how you got to the point, stay on point and paid attention to detail in making your video. Well done...
Your video was very helpful but you should include the few little things you skip over. Like how you need to squeeze the clamps to get the blendoor actuator off and then the two screws on top the bracket to get that off. I was stumped for a bit figuring this out. I also had to remove all the inside stuff first and have a friend push on the lines while I pushed to get the hose clamps off. Besides that great job!! Saved me $100. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much. Dreaded the weekend ahead. And nobody is getting me for a full day, much less touching my baby. Few things to do this weekend, but already a sigh of relief. Both us girls thank you!! ;-)
great camera angle to show the holes in the firewall also works on OBS, very very similar, took about 1.5 hours, would be quicker if you don't have dried putty sealant around the engine side hoses at the firewall. Heater core juuuust fit, the pipes on my walmart site find were a bit longer than stock
Good job w/ the video buddy...I changed my heater core today (F350 Super Duty - 2001) and your video was spot on. The biggest challenge I had was the so-called "Quick Connect" heater hoses. They should change the name of them to "Quick-Connect / Impossible-Disconnect" heater hoses. I ended up cutting mine off and using a regular hose clam to reconnect them. Regardless...thanx again for the video and good instructions.
I was ready to change out my heater core because I could not get the heat to go through and into the cab. flushed the core prior but could not get any heat. When I began I removed the heater control valve to get it out of the way....and guess what when I manually moved the vacuum operated lever nothing moved inside. it stayed closed! I bought a new one and 5min later I had awesome heat in the truck...so please check this control valve by removing it and visually inspect the inside workings. It looked like it worked on the outside when the heat was changed from cold to hot. I hope this helps.
Late 80's Astro van was by far the easiest one i have ever do at the GM dealer, took all of an hour...The mid 90"s cougar/T/Bird are the worst with the bulletin to repair the blend doors...the whole box has to be removed...hope you got more then the 7min it took you to do this one...
Do you have any videos on how to remove the actual blend door? I have replaced the actuator but that hasnt fixed my issue. I have to whip the wheel for the heat to engage almost like it is broken and swinging freely in there.
Video was useful, however it does not adaquatley address the only difficult part of the operation (removing the quick connect/ impossible disconnect hoses. I partially removed the heater core with the hoses attached and then cut the tubes with a tubing cutter. Pulled them out the front and used a crewdrive to release the clips. Easy!! New O ring kits are a dealer item and they will soak you for them. all in all very doable
Buenas tardes, buen video son instrucciones graficas. quisiera saber si hay un video donde reemplacen el evaporador del ford super duty 250 2012 6,2L... muchas gracias.·.
My mechanic is telling me this is a day and a half job and for labor alone will cost me $500. Gonna have my husband watch this video to see if he can do it. He is an old school mechanic and does not like the way newer vehicles have to be worked. Can you tell me the name of the white box part with the stick up point to change from heat to cool is called. The piece that works that little vent/door?
Srmastertech great vid! What would you charge someone to do this exact job? I know your more than knowledgeable so your time is considered valuable. Thankyou
If you changed the heater core, and youre not getting heat, it may have air in it,., Or the blend door actuator may be bad.. Ive even seen a 7.3 diesel come in with a complaint of no heat, and it had no coolant in it.. the spring clamp had broken on the bottom of the radiator..
Good tip on 7.3, always looking for tips, reliable engine if you catch the little stuff that hangs around it before it wears... heading out to do routine maintenance... aka change my heater core so it doesn't die in winter plowing in a big snow and leave me steamed lol. I already did all the hoses and went to ELC coolant from international (2 distilled flushes), t stat n housing, coolant cap, etc.
I've seen where people say this method applies to the 04-14 models. That is not the case. I don't know at what year it changes, but this method doesnt work for my 2010. The dash has to be pulled.
how do you get the last nut off from the thing that has the hook to keep the tubes locked down i cant get to it to remove the elctric component to get the core tubes out
Does not show removing those quick disconnects. I seriously question whether or not anyone has ever successfully done that without removing the engine, breaking the disconnects, or pulling the heater core inside enough to cut the tubes. I have 21 year old heater hoses I want to replace but can't get them off, even with the tool.
Oh lord well here goes nothing im not very smart at. Fixing my truck but im not a dummy either so wish me luck ...lord please be with me on replacing my heater core for im not a very knowledgeable man but lord please giude my hands so i dont tear my truck any worse than it already is amen
@@BASEBALLHISTOR lol and you were fine anyway . At least I hope, I gotta jump on this now. Thankfully just doing as routine maint on 23 year old OBS 7.3
