At 66 years old your videos have introduced me to an entirely new hobby. So far I’ve had mild success but I’ve been trying for weeks on end to pick the Lockwood type. It seems I am a serial oversetter.
Im re- interested. Did this 1997 after reading an article about lockpicking. At that time there were no youtubers. Made my own picks from sawblades and actually Manage to open my apartmentdoor a 7 pin assa lock. As you say its awesome, you get lost in it. Gonna start again:))
Being surrounded by lockwoods here in OZ, this video is really helpful, especially the overset checking technique, this also helps me to locate exactly what number / order pin I am on, I have already had some success on a couple of locks I previously have been having trouble with, so thanks for this Very helpful video!
Hi Harry, I think you've nailed it, or should I say " pinned " it down! It backs up what I have suspected after picking these locks for many years. The bevel on the drivers, were to allow for a little wear on the key pins - so the key would not " catch, " and the taper on the key pins was to allow smooth insertion and removal of the key. None of these things were designed as an antipick, however due to the close tolerances of these Lockwoods, it did in fact make them often difficult to spp. Extremely well explained, and for the first time on You Tube. It should be helpful to the Locksport Community, that obviously have been having problems with these Aussie locks. Well done LPL.Regards, Brian.
+Brian Hignett Thanks -- that means a lot coming from someone with your background and experience... and thanks again for the locks for me to play with.
+Brian Hignett I should also add a thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences on this issue, which definitely helped me identify the problem, and formulate my approach to these locks.
+LockPickingLawyer ... Lockwood locks and bevelled pins - easypick ? possibly not, but someone thinking outside the square, some ideas thrown around, and now something worth trying. The newies with spools wont be the same challenge, and China? nuff said. Thank you, Harry. Regards, Brian.
Thankyou for your video. I think this will be very useful for teaching this as we pick a lot of Lockwood in Australia. We pick 570 and 201 cylinders regularly by hand and students have a lot of problems with both oversetting and not understanding the bevel and why they feel "dead pins" on some of the older locks we use. The closeups and sound are vital and incredibly helpful. Your diagrams are fantastic and helpful to visual learners. Thankyou again.
Great video and amazing skills! You can be happy that the gravity is helping for detecting overset pins. For euro cylinders this trick would not work as the pins are at the bottom. But you could probably touch them and can feel if they are bound.
+LockPickingLawyer Hahaha. The first time my son (9y) watched picking videos with me, he screamed out and couldn't believe that somewhere in the world people would open their door holding the key with the bitting upwards. In fact, I believe it's more than just a matter of taste. The orientation affects picking and security. Some security features on work if the key pins can fall down in the bible (magnet lift). Also the technique and feel of picking differs with the orientation as I experienced. That's why I try to pick locks the way it would be mounted. Interesting topic :-)
+Potti314 Most locks in Australia are mounted with the pins at 12 o'clock, in fact manufactures used to include a sketch in their fitting instructions, orientating the key with the bitting up. We were always told that with the pins at 6 o'clock, the pins and springs had to work against gravity, and that grunge would fall to the bottom and get among the pins and springs, whereas with the pins at 12 o'clock the grunge would merely get pushed out with the key. Made sense to me. Yes, if you have to pick them around the " other " way, it feels a little awkward. I'm not sure it affects security in any way - if that's a concern the manufactures would say so. To me mortice lock keys are used with the bitting down, same as safe lock keys, but pin tumbler locks .... well, just saying! Interesting though. (:- ))Regards, Brian.
+Brian Hignett You should see me trying to pick with the pins at 6 o'clock. It's so pathetic that it's affirmatively funny. I've never put in the time to develop my "upside down" picking skills. It's a big hole in my arsenal that I'll fill one day. So if you want to keep me from opening a lock, all you really have to do is get a cheap box store lock and mount it upside down. :-P+Potti314 It's the rare lock where security is affected by orientation, but a great example that I dealt with was Flywheel's original pin in pin challenge lock. It's a beast when picked normally, but I could rake it in seconds when it's upside down (as shown in one of my past videos). Another good example might be non-spring tensioned sliders.
+LockPickingLawyer Look at the drawing of ISEO R6 www.ebay.de/itm/221987819569?euid=b80d1c98cec5441ba491e0276bf07411&cp=1 there is a magnet that lifts a key pin that sits in the chamber of the bible.
Very good video of the process, Thank you so much for this video. Your walk through was very good to see and hear how the lock was responding to your picking.
I like Lockwood locks, not because of picking (I'm not a picker) but they are reliable and better than most. I'm also in Australia, so we have them a lot around here. ''Master'' locks look good, are quite cheap to buy, but their looks are way better than their safety by all reports.
Would spooling or serrations above the bevel on the drivers augment the challenge of these locks? If such pinning has been caught on video, I would like to see it!
So I shouldn’t feel too bad that on my first ever pick attempt I lifted 4 Lockwood pins on my front door, couldn’t get it full open thou. I gave up after I started to get a sore back from crouching down a little to see into the barrel.
Very nice explanation and demonstration! I'm having problems picking a lock with beveled pins. I think the pin loses its binding when the bevel gets close to the shear line. I.e., some other pin binds as the bevels make the picked pin loose again. What strategy should be used here? Just keep going to the binding pin and move them up into their beveled region? I bounce around a lot, but without much success. Or maybe I'm completely off here? Thank you! P.S.: The only clicks I hear/feel are pins dropping or me errantly picking some warding. 😳
Replying to myself: you have to be able to detect the slight movement that correctly set driver pin will move when interacted with keypins. When that slight movement is missing, the keypin has been overset. Note that if the lock has really weak springs, detecting this difference is pretty hard.
This video at 1:35 and compare to what you say in "[81] Kwikset UltraMax "Exceeds Maximum Security" (Pick and Gut)" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-19Mw_RGZrUU.html "we've got some key pins that have such huge bevels that absolutely compromise security." (I put the inverse message on the other video) I just don't want people to think that putting a rounded or beveled edge on their pins, will make it more secure. I have a cutaway lock that has bevels on both sides of all pins, and it's almost impossible to pick without accidentally raking it open instantly, just from the pick contacting the other pins.
I believe it is because the edge of the core/bibel is reletively sharp, and the bevel provides a flat surface for which the sharpness of the core's edge catches on. If the core's edge was dull or the pin was rounded, it would make the pick easier. But the friction caused by this scenario actually makes it harder.
![[99] How To Pick Lockwood Beveled Pins](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
