Could you make a video to show how to replace the emergency brake please. On a 2015 accord or a 9gen in general.I can’t find any video showing or anything. And a video on how to bleed/ replace fluid for the clutch too. This was a good video too.
Did you see the very end of the video where I was wearing shorts :). It was chilly but I was dying from heat from wearing that thick snowsuit while fixing cars. Glad you enjoyed the video.
The video was excellent as noted prior. Did the caliper replacements yesterday and went off smoothly. One thing I did a little different was i unloosened the brake line nut then snugged it back up.Removed caliper and wired it up out of the way. When I got new bracket and caliper on, I had new bolt/crush rings ready, then unloosen quick cleaned connections and secured it to new caliper in seconds with only a few drips coming out. Seemed to make the bleeding go faster. Thanks again for the high quality instructional video!
Great video! Just replaced both rears on my 2013 Accord with the parking brake mechanism binding on the piston (caused one wheel to get hot and wear through the pad). Your video helped a lot with seeing how to work and reconnect the emergency brake. Thanks!
nice video bro, simple and very much useful, accord is a reliable car, love it, I'm driving 1992 accord with so much fun, just susbcribe to support your channel
Thanks for subscribing! Yes Honda’s in general are very reliable and the older Honda’s (1992-2000ish) were some of the most reliable ones ever made. New Honda’s are great too but they’re not quite as tough and the materials used feels slightly cheaper than Honda’s made from 20 years back.
Now I had a seized caliper same model but first to verified it was the caliper I loosen the brake hose to see if I had fluid comming out to see if the hose wasn't damage fluid cane out so I loosen brake lines and when I install the new caliper remove brake line and install to new caliper install caliper and then crack bleeder screw to see if brake fluid came out if yes tighten it turn the car on hit the brakes a couple times loosen the bleeder screw if brake fluid comes out you are good to go and don't forget the copper washer for the brake lines
Interesting technique! I can't say I've ever had issues with failed brake lines. As unscientific as this might sound, I determine if something is seized based on feel when I retract the piston. I just recently did a car where I could even twist the piston back in, while others need a LOT of effort to rotate back in. For push in pistons (ie. the fronts) again I base on feel. If I need a lot of effort to push it back in and the brake pads are wearing out in a weird way then I replace the caliper (in 9/10 cases I've been right). Great tips nonetheless! Thank you for watching :)
Good straight forward video, never seen a vacuum used before to bleed the line. Good idea. Are you Canadian? If not, you should be.........to see that being done in the winter outside in the driveway brings back memories (non of them good) of a time before I had a garage.
lol am I Canadian? Well you must be Canadian eh? ;) I am very much a Canadian that endure hell on earth some days fixing cars outside. Ironically I just posted a non car related video to my channel showing my latest acquisition to battle the cold canadian winters. I'm luckily in a better place now and moved to a home with a MUCH larger garage that is heated so I don't have to do silly videos like the one you just watched while freezing in minus 30 weather lol.
hi, great video, wondering what is the use of aligning caliper piston groove to the brake pins. Is there a reason behind this and if it is not aligned what is the cause for that. can u pls advise. Another question, on power steering, if there is a sound coming from power sttering pump (whining), and if there is a leak in hose(very minimal), can that leak cause whining sound in pump (assumng i have enough fluid in pump). otherwords, will a small leak in hose cause power steering to whine..even though pump have enough fluid.
The pin on the pad MUST line up with the groove in the piston otherwise you will get erratic and uneven braking performance. The pin is there to prevent the piston from rotating back into the piston bore. This is because Honda uses the brake pads for the parking brake vs. other designs of disc brakes that use a set of pads for hydraulic braking and a set of brake shoes for the parking brake. Using this method by Honda simplifies the rear parking brake system design busy using less components in an ingenious setup. If you have ever replaced rear pads on many Honda’s that in order for you to retract the piston that you must turn the piston into the bore vs. using a clamp to which the piston cup back in. Again this is due to the design of the parking brake system. Very important to not screw this up and make sure the pin is in the groove.
@@piercedasian Thanks much. Now i understand difference between Toyota and Honda . I always have this question today is cleared. can u pls also answer my power steeringquestions in the same thread that i have asked earlier
The power steering pump whine can be attributed to a leaking hose because air has the potential to get into the system. Honda a while back had a service bulletin for their v6 vehicles and a easy high pressure hose or-ring that supposedly had a tiny leak in it that would cause power steering system to lose power assist. While I haven’t personally seen the leak myself that it was so minute that you would see oil but that the steering would be weak and it would whine. Bottom line is that if you have a leak you should fix it and if the sound goes away then great. I am more inclined to believe the power steering pump could be showing signs of wear and will need to be replaced. Replace the hose first since that is invisibly leaking and if it still Peru’s it’s then change the PS pump out next. Good luck!
Hey, I recently did this repair because the parking brake wouldn’t engage the rear driver wheel at all. After replacing the caliper, I’m still having the same issue. I can’t see any torn parts of the parking brake cable, and can see the lever moving when the parking brake is applied. Can you help me with this issue?
No that is probably right b/c parts have gone up quite a bit in cost and each caliber even if it is remanufactured unit is still quite pricey (at least they are here in Canada). $1400 for all that work is likely the going rate.
not necessarily. If the rotors have even wear on them and don't exhibit any obvious signs of run out (essentially chattering during braking) and they're not badly corroded or really thin (it would be quite obvious) that you can reuse the rotors. General rule of thumb is don't use more than 2 sets of pads on a set of rotors.
If it was just a leak, you could have just replaced with a new seal and dust boot. If the caliper was seized then I would go with the replacement route.
Not worth it. The rebuild kit here in Canada from Honda is already $40-60 CAD and I’d have to do the work in the freezing cold plus that doesn’t include new crush washers and bleeder valve. Given the levels of corrosion the old caliper has plus the time component to rebuild and replace that it wasn’t in the customers best interest. Basically the remaned part costs more but the labour is cheap vs. the other way around.
You can bleed the braking system using an air operated MityVac or use the brake pedal method. If you look at my Acura EL brake fluid flush video you can see how I did the manual brake bleeding procedure.
As long as you haven’t let the fluid level go too low in the reservoir that would allow air into the rest of the braking system that you only need to bleed the corner you’re working on.
Yikes I couldn’t even tell you. This is something you’d have to likely measure or call the dealership on to find out. Sorry I couldn’t be of much help.
it appeared that way but it definitely wasn't bad. This isn't my car but I did notice the bushing looking the way it did but super tight and no clunking sounds from the rear end. Dealership techs confirmed my findings too and said, no issue.
