Temporary solution to make air conditioning work in a 1998-2002 Honda Accord that has a bad climate control board! Obviously your A/C system must be mechanically functional for this to work. Do at your own risk!
**UPDATE** If you can get your PCB to briefly function as I can, enable the "Recycle" mode and once it starts recycling, unplug the harness from the PCB. This will leave it "stuck" in that mode and greatly improves the efficiency.
Helped me out.My Honda has bottons everywhere.I've owned Civics,Accords,Acuras and they have problems all over.I hate the transmission problems but oh well.As long as guys like this exist we will keep rolling.Thanks...
Can't believe a youtube video actually helped me in resolving this. My board actually still kind of work but sometimes it would fail on me and there's a time where I have to do a 1 hour drive and the climate control just won't light up and not working and its fucking hot that day. Had drive with windows down to keep the cabin cool. Hopefully with this fix, I don't have to worry the ac won't work anymore. If it stop working, will be easy to find the problem since right now I only have to check the switch connection. Thank you for this fix 👍🏻
Worked like a charm. I ran my switch from behind which allowed the green plug to go back in to the faulty unit. So basically I always have control over AC and when the controller unit eventually cools from the AC, then the rest of the control panel works. Lol. Thank you!
I fixed one board I have by re-soldering the connections for R5 and ZD1LE4. Look on the circuit board for these labels. After that it worked fine. I didn't have to buy any new capacitors or use a jumper wire. Or rig up any switch like you did in the video.
What does this bypass and how did you figure this out? What component failed? I have the exact same problem with a 2010 Odyssey Climate control board and put in freezer and installed and it worked untlil it warmed up. I also bough used climate control modules, but they didn't work. There are 5 wires in the plug, 1 pair for power with igntion, 1 pair for light power and a green for comm (which I assume is universal for Honda). Both power pair work as expected 12V. I would expect at least display works. I will chedk comm for 5v. Any ideas? Honda diagnosed for $200 and said is was bad board. I talked to salvage yards and they said they get almost no calls for these. For $50 I have 3 others. Does the comm switch on display?
This is neat. Although not an issue in my Honda Accord 2001 Ex 3.0. An issue I do have is that my passenger side door courtesy light (the one at the bottom of the door that lights when the door is open) doesn’t work. nor does the car detect when the door is open at least I assume because the dome light doesn’t come on when I open the front passenger side door while it does with the others. You seem to be knowledgeable about wires and stuff like that any idea ? I’ll shoot 5
I couldn't get defrost so I just unscrewed the motor and disconnected the plug and moved the linkage upward by hand. Defrost works! Passed state inspection.
As someone who has never done anything like this before - where can I get that button switch you have? I have a 2000 Honda Accord and this is exactly the issue I am experiencing
Any auto parts store will carry them and any wire or tools you may need. Do you have any experience with electrical? Some basic tools and wiring experience are highly recommended!
@@Eric2300jeep I've only done very basic soldering, but am pretty good when it comes to self-study. Going to do some more RU-vid research and educate myself on this a bit more. I appreciate your video and response!
im confused how to wire it up, do you have any schematic? my guess is from 5v to one leg of the switch, the other leg goes to the a/c clutch relay pin? and one more thing, is the switch the stays on all the time? or is it the type that just momentarily goes to on position then back off. thank you
Sorry, I don't have a schematic... this is something I figured out on my own. And yes, you take 5v from that harness and send it to one leg of an ON/OFF switch. Then take the output leg of that switch and then send it to the pin I mentioned. The AC relay needs to be constantly energized when you want the AC to be running. Hope this helps!
I'm not sure if there's a problem with the board or another AC issue but the AC will go off but instead of just the AC light going off the button for where the air blows goes off and also the recirculation button and that makes no sense if it's an AC issue because it should just be the AC button goes off not every single one of them. Also pressure on high and low side check normal.
I think I figure out how to fix this. I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX V6 3.0 and the AC control lights all went out, could not switch the vent modes, could not activate the AC, but the fan control knob worked fine and controlled the fan fine. the lights came on intermittently and I was able to use AC for a few minutes and it would go out during a drive. it seemed like a battery was dying so I ripped out the center dashboard and remove the circuit board for the AC controls. there are 5 capacitors on mine , I replaced them all and it seems to work fine now. one capacitor I replaced matched the capacitance and voltage but was half the size, I'm guessing it is a low ESR capacitor. I replaced it with the next voltage up which was closer to the size of the old cap, all the others I had no problem. the original caps are japanese nichicon, which is one of the top brands. I tried to do the jumper mod which didn't work at all. so if you lose lights and controls for the AC buttons try replacing all the caps, preferably with nichicon
@@rvaadventures2244 you need to look right on the old caps. there is written the uf (microfarad) and voltage. remember 1 of them is oversized, so go up a voltage to keep the size the same. an electronics expert could tell you why it's actually bigger, maybe low ESR. I bought the amazon kit from rexqualis 24 value, 696 pieces, but the biggest cap I had to buy separately. again look on the label on each cap and ask a electronics guy for help selecting caps, but it's not too hard, you do need patience but in the end it works! my controls are lit up and working!
@@rvaadventures2244 also capacitors have polarity, don't hook it up backwards, watch a video on how to after you look and buy your caps, nichicon can be bought on mouser or digikey
@@rvaadventures2244 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PT78Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I also used this for the big capacitor but I don't recomend it, the values tested low, maybe it's ok but if you're rich like I said mouser and digikey sell real nichicon caps, the originals were nichicon again, i do not recommend these but they seem to work: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJNYT1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hmmm I would start by checking for power and ground on the LED circuit with a multimeter. There's most likely a common solder point on the board that's come loose or is corroded
El asunto es que soy de República Dominicana, y el calor aqui es constante, pero seguí mirando vídeos, y descubrí como ponerlo que sólo este el aire de adentro. Y si funcionó tu método, pero voy a probar lo de soldar la línea directa del A/C, para que entienda automatico
