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Just found your channel. Great tips not just for the mechanic, but also the driver. Drivers can be impatient because everything seems so simple, but with step by step protocols it all makes sense.
My mechanic never uses dye to to check for leaking in the AC. It will mess a system up. He uses nitrogen. It's easier to find the leak's and it's easier to pull it out of the system when you pull the vacuum on it. My AC blow's at 36 degrees. And another tip go to home Depot or Lowe's and get you that copper pipe insulation and put it around your lines all the way up to your fire Wall. That will also help keep your inside cab/sleeper cooler also. Keeps condensation from leaking on your engine, especially if you have a Cummins engine where the line"s" run across the top to the fire Wall!
The dye does not mess the system up, stopleaks do on vehicle hvac systems. We use nitrogen on residential units only if all the refrigerant has leaked out.
I still have my original AC compressor on my 2016 579. Almost hast 1.1 million miles on it. Blows cold AC replaced the AC dryer and charged it up. I’ll probably replace the condenser soon bc when it’s humid it steams like crazy and the fins on it are bent in. Haven’t touched that at all
Great topic. What I missed in this was information on the high & low pressure switches. You mentioned them, but did not nothing else. Where are they typically? How to diagnose - when should each be open circuit or closed circuit? This would be helpful. I had a guy working for me who found a $500 car for sale with a broken A/C. He bought it and found that one of those switches were bad, so he replaced it, making the car worth $2000.
ThankYou for this video. Compressor is good, clutch engaged, past leak test, Freon present, fuses good, still blows warm air. Maybe I need to check the expansion valve.
Just wondering Ryan, on my 2005 C-15 Acert, with the A/C running and compressor engaged, what should my high/low pressures be; I've already evacuated the system, pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes and replaced 4 lbs. Of refrigerant..? I have replaced everything except high/low pressure sensors.😂 great video btw.👍👍
Hi you doing very good videos. I got a little problem, with the A/C. I put a new A/C compressor with a new belt and air dryer. But, the A/C doesn't blow cold air when I am not running. But, as soon I start moving over 45 mph start blowing cold 🥶 air why is that.
well you have the same setup as I have. you said the exact symptom I have. NO power or sort of. I have am seeing a bit of voltage at the plug. seems to start at 2 and goes up to as high as 10. I checked fuses and when I turn off and on the ac button I get a nice click in the relay. I swapped the relay with another just to see if that would help. New pump, new dryer, new condensor on the front. had it put on vacuum for 15 min and it was fine so recharged it. funny no mechanic or the ac guy had any ideas on how to to go forward. so I am into it for 1400 at this point and still no help. I know this is an old video but so far only one that comes close to even saying the issue I am facing. I ordered a new sensor under the dash but not holding much hope on the working either.
Hey Rayan so i have a steer king pin that need to be replace I’ve seen so many different ways to do it what’s the best easiest way you think of doing that type of work 2017 Volvo 780
Hey Ryan I don’t know anything about truck but i would like to learn my question is should i go and take a course in diesel mechanic or just watch videos and try do it by myself???? I’m gonna take ur advice very seriously thanks Ryan!!!
I am planning to make a video for people who wants to become a mechanic. Plan to release the video soon. I think it will help you to know where to start.
@@truckingandfixing I’m gonna be waiting for that video Ryan!!!! I fell frustrated not knowing anything about my truck i wanna know i wanna learn i wanna have the knowledge about how my truck works i and be able to fix the little things by myself!! Thanks 🙏 for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!!!!!!!don’t wanna only know how to clean the damn windshield 😔
Am having this issue but my compressor is working good only not receiving power , is 2012 cascadia with Cummins , what do I check other than the fuse ? Which is good ??
I bought a 1999, T2000 a didn't work then & hasn't worked in 10 yrs. Ac clutch was out. I took it to a Mechanic said there was 4 # s of freon in it. I just decided to have a new ac compressor put on. He says he check everything but it still isn't blowing cold. He said he can't ck the electronic controls bc KW has the only test equipment to test the controls. I called another shop. They said the truck is to old to have electronic controls. Can you tell anything that mightbhelp understand whats going on. Did the shop guy just take the easy work installing the compressor or what? You have some idea about shaddy Mechanics. Can you help on this? T4tv
Just got the truck out of International shop and my a/c is having the same issue. They got paid to put the a/c motor in the truck and it's still giving me the same problem.$500 plus 😢
Good job explaining! My 2014 Maxforce 13 is having issues . Just had into Dealer last week when it quit working in Grand Island. and they said it was the Pressure / temp sensor was bad. Replaced it worked again but I would say didn't get as cold as before it stopped.that was $550. I put in new expansion valve/ compressor and only had about 3k miles on it since. anyway drove it for about 1000 miles and it quite again. I am going to check what your talking about and my concern is that it may be the other high pressure sensor and if I have to take off 134a I have a canister to hold what comes out and proper ac pressure lines from Harbor freight like yours red/blue/ yellow. I know my truck takes 3.5 lbs and I have a vacum from HF that I have never used. Not sure if I need to use it if I have system open for 30 seconds putting that new sensor on but what do you think? Thanks, Ryan. I have been watching you for over a year now and really appreciate your channel.
Switches of this sort on a Freightliner are usually on the High pressure line from pump to condenser. They are screwed onto a fitting with schrader valves on them and you can take them off without a loss of refrigerant. Hvac relays will cause no clutch action also. easy to switch out. These things must go trough thousands of cycles in use. Kind of a miracle they work so long.
The good thing about the AC not working is it saves fuel because the guy probably won’t leave the damn thing running all night to keep the AC on Cheers
Hello. I have a problem with my AC. The AC is only blowing hot air, it’s cold at the condenser but when it comes to the cab, it only blow really hot air. Not just regular air but hot air
Hi i have man tGA My ac high pressure goes high in idling i change everything thing like coolant temperature, air charge temperature,fan clutch and all but still same problem
My ac compressor is constantly engaged and i get cold air only when running but not at idle however the clutch is still engaged on the compressor and alredy changed the expansion valve and nothing.. help me please😅
Hey I had the 2 stwitches put on and my fuses are all good but I don’t have power coming from the compressor so what do you think I would need to do now.
Hi Ryan. I have a 2015 peterbilt paccar my ac works in the sleeper vents only, but on the front vents it blows hot air. I'm not mechanically inclined so before I take it time a mechanic what do you think the issue could be and if this Is an expensive fix?
Most likely the blend door in the dash is messing up. Does it make noise when you switch between hot and cold? Try turning off the valves to the heater core so there’s no heat.
@@markm0000 thank you for the reply. I haven't tried switching between hit n cold, I'll only be seeing my truck again in a few days so I'll try that out when I can, thanks
@@markm0000 I also had a issue that the ac was working on the front vents before driving the truck. Then after I drove for a few minutes got air was blowing out, but it worked fine before driving
@@AquilesQ I don’t think it’s a problem with the compressor if the sleeper works fine. Its not a clogged condenser because it works sometimes. It’s not the fan because it’s still blowing hot air when it does it. The last few things are the dash blend door, maybe the relay to the compressor, possibly a fuse that’s half blown, a faulty control module or BCM, possibly a corroded switch or bad connection somewhere. Problems like that are hard to fix and you can easily fall into the trap of a shop monkey throwing parts at it. Absolutely define a clause that you will not pay the invoice for 30 days and if they replace a part that doesn’t fix it you’re not paying for it. You can easily get a couple thousand dollar bill over this.
@@AquilesQ It’s also slightly possible that something is rubbing up against the controls in the sleeper and it’s causing it to switch to heat while driving. You never know. Try disconnecting the rear control panel and see if that does it.
My ac is frustrating the crap out of me. Sometimes if I adjust the fan speed and/or put the temp between cold and warm my ac starts to crap out. It won’t get cold. And it starts to leak water inside the cab. If I turn off the truck or ac for 15-30 min then the AC works just fine. I have replaced just about everything. New compressor New dryer New recirculation filter New outside air filter Last year I replaced the condenser Checked the drain hose that’s good I just had both the expansion valves replaced. What the heck is wrong with my ac? It only happens sometimes if I mess with the fan speed and temp. Since it only happens sometimes it never does it when the mechanic looks at it. Other wise it’s freezing cold.
You've had so much done, you eliminated my suggestion. My thought was that it is low on freon, which can cause the evaporator to become so cold that it freezes the condensation. Once frozen, air slows or stops going through it. A warm-up causes the ice to melt, releasing water in the interior. Fast moving air slows the time-to-freeze, and doing something to turn off the compressor allows the warm-up melting.
you will have a hard time diagnosing volvos, when you unplug the ac compressor it turns off the voltage and gives a code to the control unit on those older ones, i forget the name of the module but they have the blue large sensors (pressure switches)
And then you finally get to checking the fuses and realize you turned a 2 minute process into an hour. I guess if you're the mechanic thats great for you. If you're an O/O driver, your best tool is education. Learn how to fix aome of this stuff yourself so you can tell when a mechanic is giving you the run around.
