Quality workmanship and finish.... preparation, patience and taking time is what its all about....great job...... just like the way my Dad taught me!!!....... thanks for sharing..... Jill
This is an amazing job, it looks absolutely fantastic. I really like the tip for using a stocking over the paint tin along with working away from sharp corners to avoid any drips forming. Mental note taken. I'm about to start painting my staircase and because I've got a little dog, i've bought the Zinsser Perma White because it's quick drying and low odour. I've used it on radiators and I am chuffed with the results and the nice satin finish. In your opinion, do you think this paint is a good choice? I want it to last well and look good so I want to get it right. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Thanks for the advice.What paint brush’s do you recommend for that perfect finish with Dulux brilliant white satinwood oil paint.Love the videos they have helped me out a lot.👍
Another excellent video, I'm a DIY'er, but I have learned so much from your videos, currently doing our hall, stairs and landing, the biggest chore has to be the spindles, I'm using water based Scuffx paint, keyed + primed it first, I'm finding I'm averaging around 10 minutes per spindle to get it looking good, counting them up around 56 of them and 8 newel posts, it is taking forever, but your hands on video suggests I'm taking way too long, I shall attempt to emulate your brush technique.
Whats the best grit sand paper to use between coats when painting a stair case that has been varnished i have heard 120 but is that not too coarse.. BTW this is a brilliant tutoiral gave me loads of nuggets of quality information.keep them coming
09:53- the moment I could tell you were a true professional: look at the care and meticulousness in twisting that brush as you cleaned off the mixing stick. 👍🏻👍🏻 nice video. Thanks
Great job and love the tip of straining the paint with netting. I'm looking to apply a darker satinwood paint on top of the existing white staircase (bannisters and spindles). How would you approach this? i.e. would the existing paint require removing, or simply keying then a couple of coats of the satinwood?
Quick question your 1 inch brush you used for glossing, have you shorten the bristle by cutting it down? , it seems way thicker than any of my synthetic brushes I'm using for applying my water based paint.... Is your 1 inch brush a particular type of 1 inch brush, it looks to be like a square / sash brush... Or do my eyes deceive me?
How much time do you normally allow between the final rub down and dusting to when you start applying gloss because It looked as though you started painting straight away. Will airborne dust not be a problem?
Looks good, I'm a painter and decorator 36 years, I put more a bit more paint on than yourself it doesn't run although working in empty properties with no form of heat I take heaters with me because if its cold it could run and I don't want that and neither does the customer, I apply varnish like that, your technique is different but looks effective, great advice for people though good job Sir
Great video. Very skilled with a paintbrush. I have stripped back all my stairs, what products do you recommend. I was thinking zinsters bin primer, and a stain finish oil based dulux trade, will I need to apply an undercoat after bin primer? An how many coats will I need to apply? Thanks.
I have recently painted my stairs and hand rail in dulux water based paint about 3 months ago and the wife has noticed when wiping it down the paint is coming off.Can I give it a light rub up and repaint it using this oil based Dulux satinwood,And will I have to prime it first or can I paint over the top of it.
It depends if it scratches off easily with your nail, you will have to strip the paint off. You may get away with rubbing it down with hot water and a scouring pad just to remove the water based paint down to a solid paint level. If it's not scratching off easily then light sand and two coats off oil satinwood.
Thanks I learn so much watching your videos.Have you any experience of Floetrol added to water based gloss in helping to keep a wet edge.I tend to over brush water based gloss/satin causing myself problems?
Mark Wheeler Have not used it yet. I've put some water in a couple of times just to finish skirts. Need to experiment some more with this to see if it works as well. Only thing is never to contaminate the stock can.
I know. It was just because Mark Wheeler asked about Floetrol and him having problems with over-brushing using water based gloss. I just find wiping the surface with a damp cloth gives me a bit longer lead time and seems to help with levelling.
Great video, your videos are very helpful for DIYer like me. I am still trying to decide whether to go with old based satinwood or water based satinwood for a staircase? Any recommendations please. Cheers
Hello Sir,Do you thin paint down when your painting window sills and bannisters.I am currently using Trade Dulux satinwood and I’m finding it quite thick.Cracking video as usual.
Love your videos - thanks! I have stripped my staircase of stain and varnish, I gave it two coats of Zinsser BIN primer and want to finish with Dulux satinwood. Do I need to undercoat it first?
Ammo Bee Yes, you can but on handrails it's not as hard wearing. I've got water based on my doors and casings Ronseal prima and gloss, two coats of the gloss.
Well take note of the viscosity of the paint when you open it. And that is how you want to keep it. But sometimes depending on what your painting thin to your needs.
Pure bristle brushes are best using oil paint. Hamilton Perfection Pure Bristle Brushes... lots of other good pure bristle brushes out, it's about finding one that suits you. I recommend you experiment see which brushes are good.
whats your plan pf action for are wood to satin finish. i was going to use a primer and undercoat in 1 for 1st coat and then 2 coats of satin. Is that best way
I decorated my brothers Hall stairs and landing and he wouldn't leave me to it and made a mess of everything. No keying after undercoat, said he gave the walls and ceilin I'd done a 2nd coat. I watched him load the roller up enough to cover one or two runs on the stairs wall and he ran around trying to cover everything with it and told me he'd finished. The roller had no paint on it , because he see's moister/mist going on the wall he thinks it's covered 🤔😫 I've spent an extra two days painting over everything he's touched. Any advice getting rid of a few sags he's left on the banister posts please?
Sorry to here that you can use a wood shaving tool. Or leve to go hard and sand back. If it's water based you may be able to rub with a damp cloth.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thankyou for replying.The wood work is glossed, How long to dry underneath, it was painted two days ago? I was thinking four before I tried flatting a small section and flicking over again. He probably done me a favour with the walls because they were so bad, a nice third coat will cover it nicely I think. 2 would of done but he applied it poor. He thinks I'm mad because I can see the finish is bad and patchy but I can't leave it as it is, I like everything as good as I can get it. He only gave his skirting boards in his bedroom one can't of gloss, I warned him and he laid carpet it flaked starlight off 😫 I'm not touching it, he can live with it.
Looks good mate. Question, have you ever used an airless sprayer? Ive seen probably a hundred or so of your videos but never seen you use or mention an airless sprayer.
TheTireDepot Thanks, and no not something we use. Better for us to use brushes and rollers. Applying first coat then having to wait for it to dry over a few hours, and sometimes only doing second coat next day. My roller goes in a plastic bag, you would have to clean your spray gun. Also we sometimes use up to three colours so three rollers. You would have to clean your spray equipment out on every change. Seriously not worth having in my line of work. Airless spray more for industrial work.
Im just about to repaint a staircase. there are lots of runs on the spindles. How do I prepare them before glossing as i dont want to gloss over the bad job underneath?
Painting and Decorating Hi, I have the same issue as above , once the bare wood sections have been primed (I am using no nonsense primer/undercoat), is the rest okay to paint straight over with gloss as long as it’s all keyed and cleaned? Thank you for the very help video.
Mark Bartlett Start off neat usually, sometimes depending on what I'm painting will add some white spirit. But you always need to add some at some point, as it evaporates.
If it's previously painted then you will only need to wash to remove grease and sand to key the surface for the next paint... You only need to prime bare wood... Gloss will need an undercoat unless it says your gloss says otherwise. Satinwood does not need an undercoat but may need two coats of the satinwood...
Paul Lynch I find water based gloss finish not shiny enough! To me it always looks like vinyl silk! Oil based is king but Dulux satinwood in my mind is far better and stays brilliant white for ages.
@@gdpaintingdecorating5704 i personally have never seen this happen with acrilic paint only with oil... Something else I whould like to say... Oil based especially white is alot duller than the water based.. Its a thing of the past
great work but fk all that. i just got some satin and put it right over the current bannister worked a treat. nobody gives a shit once its on anyway lol
Sone of the comments lol is only a few spindles etc 🙄 it's not rocket science common sense would tell ya to prep it well and to refrain from over loading the brush and applying to heavy to avoids runs