In this video I'll show you a fast and easy way to remove auto body spot welds without breaking the teeth off of the spot weld cutting tool. / @lakesideautobody
I cut spot welds all day every day - work - I binned all the "fru fru" stuff years ago - just too much mucking about/too slow/too akward/too much patience requiured. I either drill them with a small bit, then a big bit so the entire weld is gone(if it's a "Posh" job) - or more usually, I ignore the drill & grab an air-hammer with a good sharp chisel & bust the seams apart using that. In fact, 90% of the time, it's the air hammer. That usually leaves a blob of metal where the weld was - I knock them flat using an air belt sander & a 3M Cubitron 20mm belt. Which does 2 things - removes the blob & also leaves the steel clean ready to weld to again. Given the choice of just one tool for spot weld removal, it's the air hammer all day. If I do have to drill, I use a small normal bit, then a step drill - drill till the whole welds gone. Otherwise it becomes a PITA. A chunk of flattened copper pipe is yer Pal for re-welding drilled spot welds - use it as a backer & weld ahead. It acts as a heat-soak & lets you weld the un-weldable.
Nice video. For those that read the comments, do not exceed 1000RPM with the 3/8" cutter. This is what damages high speed steel. The rule is do not exceed 100 surface feet per minute. I computed this by taking the 3/8" divide by 12 to convert to feet, then multiply by pi to compute the circumference length (in feet). You want to divide this into 100 (this is the 100 feet per minute maximum cutting speed of high speed steel tooling), to compute the RPM (~=1018RPM). This is the reason for the electric drill. Do not use an air drill unless you know the RPM is less then 1000.
Fred is correct as this subject came up in a Corvette body repair class that ADCelco field were invited to during a week of cross-training. The engineer had everything needed on a work bench included 3M co-hesive panel bond. When asked about the speed used on drilling operations he simply explained. A brace and bit was hand drilling and an experienced tech could operate at 50 RPM - Hand Speed Machine speed is 1,000 RPM. With any weld or spot weld, the metal is heated to the point it is no longer magnetic. A trick black smith’s have used since the 20’s, this point meant it was ready to quench in oil to harden the material. A good spot weld cutter with a larger outside diameter and places it outside the spot weld size were the metal is not hardened, just mild steel. Different manufactures use smaller or larger pressure tips at “X” number per millimeter across the edge or surface. During a repair, some specs require closer spot welds. From robotics to field machines, they tips have to be cleaned, dressed and shaped to create the correct weld for a predictable crumple zone to react correctly in an accident. The use of high strength steel changes how the panels are attached. While Corvette in 2007 had 23 methods of attachment from frame, A-pillars to other panels both structural and non-structural. This a common term that everyone repairing frames to body need to know the part they are working with. Two or three metal parts that need spot welded that are structural have different procedures. The 3M panel bond or high strength must be applied to clean bare steel. Spread to cover overlapping the factory applied panel coating, but can be spot weld when wet before cure. It is conductive in this stage and allows current to pass joining the parts. Amperage, size and spacing is called out. Glass beads in the panel bond keep the film thickness uniform (U-Pol has similar). Once clamped and allowed to cure say done late in the day, plans to spot weld in the AM, will not work as the bonding adhesive becomes non-conductive and acts like a gasket and will not spot weld. The world of body repair has become way harder than ever, as the student tech gets a 128 page manual for one year, one car. Very good video, tools and info! Thanks!
Everybody's got their own methods, and Jerry's is as good as any I've ever seen. Personally, I like to use a small bit in the center, then take a 1/2" or so and drill enough to weaken the spot weld. With air hammer and chisel, the seams come apart pretty easily. Others swear by using a 36 grit disc and simply grinding the top panel down to where the weld is weakened , and then split them apart. Truth is, I'll use a number of different methods depending if I'm out of cutters, or my bits are dull, or whatever my current issue is! :)
You're absolutely right Kelly. If you feel like doing it with a drill for the day...cool. If you want to try out your new spot weld cutter...awesome. There's a lot of different ways depending on your tools, situation even your mood :)
Thank you. I will do a video on that topic. I wrote it down on my video idea list so I wont forget. If you would like to see anything else let me know. Even if it's real easy stuff let me know - I like the ideas.
Thank You for all of these informative video's and tips that You have gained over a lifetime of being in the trade, I can see how the little things like this can make the difference between the work looking professional and let's just say less than professional, keep up the good work Your videos are appreciated more than You know.
I use to apply that technique. But recently I was working in a side of a 2014 Dodge Dart. And does not Work , because Now For Safety And Protection The Manufacturers Use High Strenght Metal, That even With The Special drill Bits, are Very Dificult to Achieve. The only way that work for me , was a little plasma cutter , placing behind a piece of thick flat copper. On old cars, I Always have succes with your technique. Thanks.
I stopped using those cutters years ago. The half inch belt sander is cheaper for consumables,, belts vs Blair cutters and much faster! Just grind off the top layer in seconds! Or stack cutoff wheels in a pinch to do the same.
Or you could just use a belt sander and not put any holes in the back panel at all. The once you see the ring through the first layer just use a seam buster or scraper or even a flat head screwdriver to separate the panels.
i have a 95 jeep Cherokee (xj) that is in really bad rust. I have to replace both sides of the frame rails yes it is a unibody. i have a donor xj and i need to same the floor pans and your videos help me on saving them thanks
You don’t need to drill holes all the way through. You just need a almost like a crater to hood the spot weld remover in place. Comes out cleaner and no need for plug welder
These videos are great; very informative. I have one question: I don't have an air hammer... Can I use a cold chisel or is their a better hand tool that requires no air? Thanks.
@@LakesideAutobody An SDS drill with a sharpened masonry chisel bit is effectively an electric air-hammer in all but name. Kick it into roto-stop chiselling mode & viola - air hammer, without air. Cheap too.
I use the same Blair cutter. Once i got the feel for it, i could almost do whole quarter panel without losing any cutter teeth. Funny thing here... Ive gone pretty far on a broken cutter because i couldnt find my refills!!🤣🤣
What kind of sander was that? Im new to autobody work (just got my first classic car, a 66 mustang), and my orbital sander is nowhere near that fast at stripping paint!
That's just an old hand grinder with a 40 grit ginding disc on it. 1) www.harborfreight.com/5-in-high-speed-air-sander-68739.html 2) www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-36-grit-resin-fiber-sanding-discs-5-pc-69615.html Hope that helps
I think they would work fine. They would never rust and that's great but the steel that you glue it to would so.... I'm thinking it would defeat the purpose of the rust free panel. That's just my thinking - I might be wrong on that as I never used them. Might look into them though.
It doesn't take a lot of knowledge to use a spot weld cutter - just don't break the teeth. If someone used one of these near me in a body shop, the first thing I would ask the guy is, "How the heck are you not breaking teeth off that thing?" The teeth break easy if you don't have some type of pilot :)
The easiest way to remove spot welds is with a belt file. Check out Blue Collar Kyle as he uses this all the time. Much faster and far better as you can remove the top piece without destroying the rear piece which as you said is needed to do the plug weld.
A spot weld cutter like I use doesn't destroy the rear piece. Neither does a drill bit if you're careful. Lot cheaper too - would like to get one of those belt sanders though - thanks
Might as well just use a slightly bigger drill bit and drill the spot weld out! What a long winded way of doing that is, use a finger belt sander, grind the spots and air chisel apart.
How many welds can you grind with one piece of sand paper or belt before it's worn out? What grit do you like to use for that? How much does one of those sanding belts cost? Be honest - Always looking for a cheaper, easier, faster way.
You trying to save the pannel to re use it? If not. I use a air belt sander . i can have a bed side off a truck in 40 minutes with a belt sander, air hamer and torch. What your doing is . is the old way, this is not 1990 this is 2022
Yes but you're only left with an 1/8" hole. This is just if you want to save the teeth on these types of bits. Without the hole - I promise the bit will jump around and you bust teeth. They have a better design but this was quite a common cutter for Blair.
@@LakesideAutobody Too loud and coarse.. , jarring and abrasive in the context of a lead in.. perhaps a riff from something that Daryl from Daryl house does.. in his jamming sessions.. .. the Johnnie Be good riff from back to the Future worked- it was smoother but not abrasive until the end lol.. But hey it is your production... Thanks for asking ..
@@robhermanrude331 I loved Johnnie be Good! I always thought they gave Elvis too much credit w/ "King of Rock and Roll" Chuck Berry jammed - and that song was actually the hardest rockin" tune of that time - no question about it :)
@@LakesideAutobody you can do that as well with 80 grit, but 46 can burn thro spots welds in no time no drilling needed or pilot hole. Just stop when you see the spot weld ring and take a seam buster to the flange
@@LakesideAutobody when doing quarters 1 belt usually last the whole quarter. That's inside the door jam, under the rear glass down the tail light pocket and rear body panel. Key is to not use pressure let the belt do the work
Wow! Why spend money on the Blair if you are already drilling through the second panel?? I wish I knew where your shop was, so I could never go there. Rename this video to How Not To Remove Spot Welds.
Blair makes a better bit that is solid so that there are no teeth to break. For this type, it really saves the tool to drill a small pilot first. No big deal - it doesn't hurt anything - just saves the teeth from snapping off - keeps the tool steady.
