I just did this mod but with a different kit that had extra adapters for my direct drive setup. While the installation was really easy, I did take on the fiddly task of cleaning all the engineering gunk off the rail and the carriage, including all the bearings. re-lubricated and put back together and it feels like it's just floating on air but absolutely rock solid stable! I'm sold on them now so will be upgrading the Z & Y over the next few months as well. :)
It stepped it up, right? This can still be good printers with some work. I’m going to be building an Ender NG live on this page once all of the parts come in. Make sure to check it out!
Glad to see someone else still rocking the OG/Pro Ender 3! Might I suggest going for the Belt Driven Ender 3 by KevinAkaSam for Switchwire-like performance. :)
I see you still level your bed manually. In klipper there is a very useful feature called screw tilt adjust which is very easy to configure. It will probe above the bed leveling screws and tell you how moch to turn them!
Nice Video! Little tip with the bed calibration. If you run Klipper setup screws_tilt_adjust that thing saved me so much time. Anyways, I'm ordering X and Y Rails now. That will pretty much max out my small ender 3 v2
I’m definitely going with the Y kit soon. I’ll do a step by step when I set it up. The screws_tilt_adjust is an awesome tip. Thanks for sharing it ❤️❤️
Now getting back into 3D printing after troubles at home had put a stop to it. Before getting the Ender 3 pro up and running, I am gonna give it some upgrades. Currently have the CR touch on order. Thanks for the videos to give me some more ideas. Keep up the great work from the UK 👍🏻
I'd like to see a video on the details of that test, might be helpful in diagnosing issues I have been having with my printers lol. Keep up the good work man!
Bro, you got a new subscriber! Can you show us how to tune ender 3 for fast printing running klipper? there are many tutorials out there but having one single crash course video with calibration prints to run, would be amazing!
Absolutely!! I got you. I’m working on a few things with the AnyCubic Kobra Max Right Now, but I definitely will create Klipper/Calibration Video. For the Ender 3! Thank you so much for joining the journey!
This looks sick ! I still have pom wheels on the X and Y axis, but i upgraded the Z axis to be belt driven. BRO, I cannot convey the emotion I felt after the first print after that mod!! No more Z banding, No more Z hop issues, it's smooth and works like a charm. If you upgrade the Z axis too, get rid of the rods and go to the belt side of life ;) All the other axis are belts anyways !
Very helpful. Well done on the video. I'm considering a two-head printer as I print parts for an artist's easel I manufacture. The parts have cantilevered portions that require support, so I'd like to have a second head to print the water-soluble supports. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Glad you found the video helpful. When it comes to multi colored printing any Bambulab Printer with an AMS unit would be the best bet. As long as you go with BambuLab filaments and and water soluble filament, you should have a seemless experience printing with them. The AMS unit is sensitive to the size of the filament roll and can get jammed. Solutions to using other filaments are printing adapters to place around your rolls, rerolling aftermarket filaments in a bambulab roller or modding the AMS unit. I know that’s a lot of info lol, but I want you to have a successful experience.
Lol. There are so many efficient printers out of the box these days, the old Enders seem like a waste of time, but if you got one, you can still make it rock! But I feel you, lol!
Sorry for the late response. I definitely like to use Klipper. It’s the ease of adjusting the printer cfg file without extra software. Also there are a lot of custom code modifications created by users that give your 3D printer extra features. I’m also one who likes testing the limits of my printer. Klipper just allows me to do that a bit easier than marlin.
I already run my Ender 3 at 10,000 accelerations on the X and Y axis. I'm sure I can run the X axis higher now. The accelerometer test gave me a higher frequency reading on the X compared to the Y. Right now, the linear rail on the X axis is acting as a speed stress reliever rather than a speed bump up untill I change out the Y axis... if that makes any sense lol.
I don't have the crtouch but it might be related and could help someone - to fix this issue without crtouch I just moved my Y axis stop sensor to accommodate this offset, it means I get to use my entire bed still, don't need to worry about offsets, and its literally loosening 2 screws, sliding the sensor to correct position and retightening. Simple effective fix.