A look at the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure -- Setup, parts, accuracy...Detailed! 

Thank you, its getting a little old now but hopefully still useful

Thanks for watching.

Good to hear from you. I have been doing a renovation on my house, so once you take a sledge to the kitchen, bath its head down and focus. I plan to get back into making videos now that I have the worst of it behind me. Thanks for your continued support.

Thank you

The turret press is a great option in my opinion. It gives you the one round at a time focus but automates the steps making it useful for higher volume rounds like 9mm. The auto drum is just the cherry on top of this affordable setup. If you get the kit you will want to add an electronic scale and a bullet puller right off the bat. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much, very nice of you to say.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Sorry Im late on the reply. Thanks for the nice comment and thanks for watching!

Instructions explain this.

If you're talking about the powder measure wobbling a little, I recently found out Lee added a small part years ago that acts as a shim that my very early version didn't have. In my latest video, I go over this, added the shim with the deluxe upgrade kit and my PM now runs rock solid.

Your going to like it! Ive got a couple other videos you might like to check out for setting up dies. Thanks for watching.

I watched this again today and I took off the safety disconnect. As you said the danger of a squib is high with it on. The press is amazing vs my old single stage presses! What light are you using to observe the case powder level?

Glad you like the press! That light is a home brew. I had some LED strip left over from an under counter lighting project. The product has a pig tail that snaps onto the strip on contact points and you can cut the strip every few inches. Its 12VDC so I scrounged around in my forgotten electronic stuff and found a dc power supply, cut the connector off and wired it directly onto the pig tail. The strip is hot glued onto the under side of the turret housing. Hornady makes one that might work on the press with some creativity. www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Light-Strip/dp/B00AU6C4X0

Great comment, the first time i shot that part i did put the screw inthe hole...i didnt like how it came out so i shot it again and omitted that, so good catch! These work pretty well but they are a real stinker for fine powders. Caused me to design a stand to mount a drum powder measure on the LCT press.

I called Lee about the powder leakage, they said the drum needs to be lapped in. I understand but haven't done it yet

I hope it works for you. One of the lessons we have learned over time. And I think I mentioned it in the vid. Dont over adjust the PM down to the case. It puts stress on the body of the PM and it can crack over time.

That's great Ken, glad it helped!

Sorry I missed this comment! Not sure but I have brushed the contact area with graphite lube and I also do not run the drum knob very tight as that would add extra friction. Some people say it hard to draw the case out of the die/powder measure. This is because the case is getting stuck on the expander die (if its a pistol case). In this case you can, put a little case lube on the expander neck in the die and or reduce the belling. Hope you see this late post and it helps, thanks for watching.

Thanks for the comment

Thanks for watching!

The auto drum does a really good job with Unique powder and it is tough to meter. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment! I do use graphite inside the metering area of the drum. I clean it with alcohol (something that wont harm plastic) I feel like this cuts down on static cling that can get bad during certain times of the year. Its not very durable though and when you make adjustments the coating gets scraped off.

If you dont have a primer tray form the safety prime you should be fine. Some dies are taller than others and it may be nice to have it up higher in some instances but I would try it without first. Less is more.

Thank you, hope you get some use out of them.

I wouldn't be able to say 100% I don't know of any mechanical powder measure that is that accurate. 100% ish accuracy would be using a powder trickler on a beam scale. This method would be suitable for range or bulk ammo. If your shooting out to 1000, you would want finer control over the charge weight.

The press can make very consistent ammo if you do your part. For match ammo or long range shooting you would want to hand weigh your powder to control variables.

Ive been thinking that too. Thanks for watching!

Man Im sorry, that is a stand that I made from plate steel and square tube steel. Not store bought. I talked about it in a earlier video but not very much in this one. I guess I need to make a video about it to show the parts. I just stuck that Hornady sticker on there because it came with the powder measure.

Just uploaded a video about this stand if your interested .ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AUlUkpvauMs.html

Hey Jason, sorry to hit you up again but wanted to let you know that things have changed a little and I decided to make and sell these stands if you're still interested here's the info. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5zaLqyXWEUc.html

TreeTopFlier . Thank you for contacting me back. Unfortunately I do not have the lee classic turret. I just really liked your stand. I have the step down lee turret.

Bummer, I don't have a pattern for that press base. Well, keep me in mind if things change, and thanks for watching!

I use it in 7.62x25, 9mm, 10mm, 45ACP. It's my favorite for metering and velocity overall

That is a Lyman, it can use 110v or batteries. Really nice unit for the money IMO. ads.midwayusa.com/product/142513/lyman-micro-touch-electronic-powder-scale-1500-grain-capacity-110-volt?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-Lyman-_-142513&gclid=CjwKEAjwz9HHBRDbopLGh-afzB4SJABY52oFk64P89kT0XO-n6bsIHLySY8zeY2dndGDb-kvOBWkWxoCoLbw_wcB

Parts of it are for sure.

Try some spray lube on the cases...oneshot or maybe some lanolin mix. If your using carbide dies you don't technically need lube, but I've found that a little lube really smooths out all the case sizing and belling operations.

they are carbide dies and its not a problem sizing just the flaring from the Lee Expander/powder-through. The hornady expander isn't as bad, but i've read maybe polishing the Lee expander would help. Did you use Case lube on these cases because i noticed you barely get a small catch on your upstroke

I did have a little lanolin on them. I was also using the same case over and over so after the first shot it had already been belled making it look easier than it would have been. Definitely polishing it with some 300-600 wet dry would make it smoother.

The perfect powder measure is a great tool. A little flimsy in construction but it really makes charging cases easy and accurate. Not sure it maintains its utility in a single stage press but it really shines in one of the turret presses.

I tried to make the point in the video that the Lee hopper has a large cavity with a small hole into a larger staging area. This is built in feature that eliminates the need for additional baffles by controlling the weight that can be applied by the reserve powder on the staging area powder. I haven't experienced the need for additional baffles.

Yes I caught that from your excellent video. It's some used for the cylindrical powers. Not sure if it works that well on flaked powers....not really a baffle the weight keeps helps flow. Thanx 😊

@@hokehinson5987 My Bad, I read it, but pictured it wrong, I see what you're saying now 😏

No, sorry John, I havent. I use Unique and CFE Pistol.

I see. I will be setting up mine in a week or so. Hopefully all goes well. I appreciate all the videos you put out here. You should have more subscribers!

@@johnpaulsasotona9083 Thanks, I hope it goes well for you.

@UCSKqn-Rmj7gIaFMzL4AxZvA sounds like you are running the drum nut to tight. Lee recommends a paper drag method to gauge how tite.

Apologies foe the multiple queries haha. I’ve fixed the problem with the connecting rod bending and the gear not turning completely. It had to do something with the disconnector. I removed it and made sure the connecting rod was “forward” as you mentioned here. It now throws a complete cycle. Thanks for all the tips, I appreciate it!

I used to make them, I dont anymore.

In my opinion, the drum is way better. There are some that will disagree lol

Not sure, maybe it's for the new castelated breech lock bushings. They have a plastic wrench?

No I sold a bunch of them over the years has a hobby craft item but the Biden admin cracking down on paypal payments adding up to over $600 bucks annually was the nail in the coffin. I never minded paying taxes but there was no way for me deduct my costs without establishing a business. Government kills innovation

Sorry just saw your comment. Im not getting notifications anymore for some reason. Anyway. Sounds like you are belling a pistol case with a nearly full load. This happens sometimes. Pulling the case back off of the neck belling powder through adapter can pop a little. You can try a little spray lube on the cases/case mouth so it releases smoother.

@@TreeTopFlier I'm actually having the issue with rifle powders, where the powder thru die isn't belling the case mouth. Either way, I'll take your suggestion. Thank you for the reply.

@@toothaik1 The rifle powder through dies are not designed to bell the mouth at all. The pistol powder through dies do but not the universal powder dies. The only time you should need to bell a rifle cartridge is if you are using oversized lead projectiles. We run into this some with 300 blackout, in which case Lee makes a universal flare tool for this. Otherwise, its sufficient to use a light chamfer on the inside of the case. I like Lyman vld tool.

@@TreeTopFlier Yes, I've been using a light chamfer inside the case as you recommend. Good to know about the Lee flare tool for the 300 Blackout. Bonus bit of info!

Tough without seeing it first hand. The adjustment for a cartridge like that is to the desired flair with the powder measure installed. The proper rotation is kinda built in to the stroke. I suppose you may have the wing nut on the drum a little tight giving too much rotational drag? Try setting it for the flair you want and just test the accuracy of the throws by weighing them rather than visually determining if you're getting enough rotation.

You may get by without it in some pistol applications but it would probably have better clearance with it.

@@TreeTopFlier thank you

Wow thats a huge variance. Something seems to be wrong with the mechanism. Thats not normal for any powder with this measure.

Call Lee, they have an excellent warrantee. They have never let me down... so far.

If your using it on a LoadMaster, I wouldnt think it wobbles around since it doesnt rotate like the turret press. If you are talking about it rocking when you insert the case into powder through die, that is usually because the case is bottoming out at the top of the stroke. overall, this is why I designed the #TTFPowderStand.

@@TreeTopFlier The wobbling is coming from the connection between the powder measure and the riser. It's not all one piece. I have tightened the screw that comes with the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure as much I as I can and it still wobbles. Is there anything I can do to stop the wobbling?. Do you have any suggestions. Your suggestions would be very helpful.

@Ernie Murdock sorry, no I don't have any suggestions if the thumb wheel screw is tight end all the warning the die that's all you get. The housing does rock a little on the mechanism. I will say in my testing even with the wobble the PM is capable of better accuracy than you described. If you watch all the way to the end of this video I give some tips using graphite to get better performance. I used the basic techniques just tofpday and got great results. All in all this stuff is part of the reason i build those powder stands for the turret presses.

Thanks.

This is interesting comment. Ive heard others remark about over expanding and complete rotation but I havent had any issues. I even went out and re set some dies up just to see. In my case, I can thread the PM into the die and adjust the die to get more or less belling. In either case the case mouth is strong enough to over come the spring and rotate the drum without belling until the mechanism reaches the top of the travel, at which point the bell is accomplished. I can imagine, if the drum knob is too tight it might give enough frictional drag to over bell the case before reaching a full stroke, I dont know? Thanks for the comment and watching!

@@TreeTopFlier on my setup, even before the measure hit the stop, I was getting more bell than I needed for berry's plated. I got a batch of brass where that was causing splits. I don't mind tossing those cases, but of course that's after you inserted a precious primer.

@@curtwuollet2912 That doesn't seem right at all. If I was you, I would give Lee a call...sounds like a warrantee issue. They might send you a new one. Something is restricted in the travel IMO.

@@TreeTopFlier right now it's working well, but when I switch powders I'm gonna dig deeper.

I found that for fine powders like H110, the pistol size drums tend to leak less than the larger capacity drums with the plug inserted for smaller charges. Guessing the smaller diameter hole seals better. I also found fine powders dont always leak through edge, but works its way to gears an out the side of the arm mechanism. I rig a plastic sour cream container under the measure below thumb screw (using theLee powder measure riser to keep it above other dies) to catch the leakage. I also find running the turret around the cycle between drops 'settles' powder for more consistent measures.

It is fine with the ball powders I've used. It's just the super fine powders like H110 that leak.

Yes, in fact I think it ships with it in some versions.

What they are saying, basically is, you can weigh out a load. Remove the drum, turn it up side down. Unscrew the metering screw to get space. Poor your weighed load in the cavity then screw the adjuster till the load comes up flush with the drum surface. This gives you a starting place. Dump the load then reassemble and take some charges, weigh, and make fine adjustments till your where you want to be. This is corny. I just fill the hopper and take a drop, start turning the knob till you get to the target. Hope this helps.

Everything below the hopper.

@@TreeTopFlier thanks

Sorry, I will try to give instructions: First decide whether you are going to charge pistol cases or rifle cases. The unit ships with two drums, one for each. The deep metering chamber is for rifle and the shallow one is for pistol. Lets say we are doing pistol. Select the correct drum. Now you can either install it and tune it in or you can pre adjust it by measuring out the desired load by weight. Turn the adjuster on the selected drum counter clock wise till you have plenty of room for the powder you just measured. Poor your measured powder into the metering chamber then adjust the winged knob clockwise till the powder is flush with the drum face. This is a premeasurement. Install the drum, fill the hopper and start charging with a primed case. If you are using an electric scale you can put the case on the scale an hit zero. Using the same case you just zeroed keep taking charges into the case and weighing the case and powder. Because you zeroed on the case the value you read will be the powder charge the measure is throwing. clock wise for a smaller charge and CC for a larger charge. If your using a beam scale you will have to poor the contents of the case into a powder pan and weigh it that way. Hope this helps.

Yeah I think that new container design is a fail for Lee on the Auto Drum. Not being able to dump back into the hopper seems like it would be really annoying. I guess you could get use to it but......

And for that reason is why I place my beam scale on a flat based pedestal, with a drilled and tapped 8-32 hole, through the scale body, 8-32 screw tightened to the base when zeroed.

What breaks on them. Also, Lee has a pretty good warranty. They have replaced every broken part Ive ever had.

There are obvious work a rounds, I just wanted to show it in its native state.

It wasn't touching but I do have it adjusted close to the bench for comfort. I'm intentionally short stroking the press just to rotate the dies in between taking measurements. I do this so the vibration settles the powder between drops, that way its the same when I actually start reloading and running the press as intended.

A fair criticism, I probably tried to fit too much into one video. I felt like I showed the most important part to know, which is how to make sure your getting full travel between the two types of powder through dies. I showed the two drums (pistol and rifle) and the adjustment knob but its true, I didnt show how to turn it in or out to change the volume of the charge. At the time of the video this was a fairly new product, so showing the other things on the market was just to give the viewer a point of reference to something they may have already used. If you have any questions, I would be happy to fill in the blanks.

Could the pin have broken due to the travel being over maxed out? I have used and abused both this and the auto disc powder dispensers for over 15 years now with no problems, ever. This powder measure reminds me of my past Dillon unit, for principal and equal or better performance. I hold 1/2 of a tenth of a gram for accuracy at worst for use of IMR 700X.

@@madewithscraps Possibly. It wasn't operating properly out of the box due to the disc not travelling more than half way. Upon investigating I found the gear was one tooth out from where it should be. I corrected this and it worked perfectly for 1500 rounds before the pin sheared. I'm surprised the pin lasted as long as it did considering it's die cast metal measuring 1/8" diameter and protrudes about the same. A friend uses the manual Lee Perfect powder measure which he's very pleased with. Maybe I was unlucky with the auto one.

Its not as good as it could be. I should probably fire my production crew.

Probably true.