If you want to help me create more, better quality videos faster, consider tossing a few bucks my way on Patreon: / chrisdeprisco Tired of my lame aluminum toolpost, I build a copy out of steel! Music by Zircon zirconstudios.bandcamp.com
A few recommendations to you or viewers intending to follow this video: A tool post contains often used contact surfaces providing repeatability. To reduce wear you will want hardened surfaces. If you dont have a grinding machine to machine the part after hardening the next best thing is to use a prehardened low alloy steel. you can buy stock hardened to about 40 HRC. This can still be machined on lathe and mill but is quite a bit harder than cold rolled steel (HRC below 20) Many machining videos are produced documentation style showing almost every chip falling and using time compression. But it is not interesting to see a block squared up for 6 minutes or a hole drilled from top to bottom. Most of us have seen and done it a lot. How about producing videos in story telling style? You show only what is needed for the viewer to understand what you have done and how. So you show only the more important setups and the first and/or last cut and then go to the next important setup. That makes for shorter more interesting videos without those time compression parts putting everybody to sleep. Shorter videos with high information density are not only more interesting to watch but also waste less of the viewers precious time. So more viewers will come back to your channel.
I can watch machining all day. I dont care if they are long or short. Machining is either you are interested or not. I would rather watch one 30min video compared to 3 10 min videos that are not detailed out as much. In the end it is personal preference. I do agree with what you said mostly.
Your video production is excellent... good mix of chat and working shots... good mix of high-speed and normal... and great choice in music. A lot of your project are out of the scope of my machines and abilities but I've still learned plenty and they're a joy to watch. Maybe a little TOO entertaining because I'm supposed to be working whilst I'm watching this.
you should make a mill stop, those things are very handy when you constantly have to flip a part and keep the zero at the top left corner, also your y will always stay the same if you zero out on the fixed jaw side of the part, i loved the video though making your own tools is the way to go
Thoroughly enjoyed your video mate for someone who hasn’t done this a lot or all the as stated in some comments no disrespect to those people these videos help those of us who don’t do this a lot to understand the process and correct way to do it to avoid fails or worse hurting ourselves lol thanks for sharing stay safe all god bless
I did the same thing and used the original as a template to make my steel tool-post, though I used a manual mill and approached it slightly differently. I did however achieve the same results as you did. Well done
I measure 10 times and get a different reading every time! The irony is that my father rarely needed to measure anything because he did everything by eye. I do have my mothers good looks though ha ha
Damn! You had to remove nearly half the block. I would have used a chop saw or angle grinder to cut it down. I usually weld something onto the piece for leverage if it is too short.
Really great work, and having to do it over is good experience, my only easier way , would have been to just take an 1/8 " off the one you had and then add a little thicker piece of steel to the bevel sides , similar to the pieces on a compound slide, then cut them down to a very snug fit, seems like a lot less work, but yours is very much stronger indeed. thanks for the great video.
Very cool, but just to be fair I've had the same aluminum tool posts bought from A2Z for both the 7x10 mini and Sherline lathes and have not seen any play on them, once the tool posts are installed and locked, the dovetails slip nice and smooth on mine and I have used them hundreds of times but I rarely machine heavy metal mostly aluminum stock. What model of the Lagun mill are you using? Those are nice mills.
MIA Micro-FLIGHT I don't think that tool holder that you saw at the beginning of this video was anything but a homemade job. I've never seen one without any anodizing on it it was just rod oxidized aluminum and I look really roughly made like someone made it at home
Yeah, I saw an awesome looking setup in that old "Amateur's Lathe" book the other day and was kicking myself for not figuring it out on my own. It looked like just a piece of threaded rod or something turning between centers with a small circular blade bolted onto it around the middle. They actually had a table saw style platform, but it seems like clamping your piece onto the compound would work as well and keep your hands away. Seems too easy, so there's probably a catch (like the stock smashing into the arbor), but there's probably some variant that would work.
I think it is a good job to build the part or tool I would like to know what milling machine you are working on, will it be a bridgeport with a CNC system? Sincerely, Angel from Spain
Nice job, but it is always best to "blue" up the sides that need working on and mark them accordingly, nonetheless, 10/10 for starting it again and getting it right in the end.
Just found this channel and this video. You know, I went to school for CNC programming years ago but I much prefer manual machining. More “touchy-feels”I guess. That being said, I’d kinda like a CNC mill someday. Seems useful. Good stuff but don’t get too comfortable with the CNC. 😁
Hi Chris a most interesting job. The lathe and mill are just my hobby. I have a Chinese lathe and mill and wish to do a similar quick change tool post like you did. By any chance do you have dimensions or drawings in hand please to work on? In particular the depth of the dove tail and inner parts? Thank you Silvio
Nice job. You can build an oscillating frame saw pretty easily, uses hacksaw blades, and will cut very straight. Not fast, but effective. What's time to a pig, right?
Very nice video overall Thanks. I'm a hobbyist wanna be and found the same issue with the aluminum post for my lathe. Found this searching YT and thinking to do the same. What steel did you use and it looks as if you only replaced the main body of the post not the other components. If so, how'd that work? Would you take the time to fab the other components too? TIA!
+David Bolliger It's just cold rolled steel, nothing fancy. I left the cam and lever as well as the piston in aluminum because they shouldn't really be taking any significant stress. I thought I may do those as well once I get the lathe back up and running. (It's apart now because I want to make some more modifications!)
your screw driver test shows not only the tool holder moving but also the carriage on the bed way. You better check your guide ways and reduce slop. That will increase the rigidity of your machine. Especially during parting off you will know the difference.
That's awesome but I think I'd try to find a good used steel tool post rather than make one. Thanks for showing us your mistake with the locating edges. Makes the rest of us feel human too. Cheers buddy!
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love your videos... very calming to watch for some reason.. have you considered adding a quill servo to have a cnc'd z axis? I'm sure that would really help your productivity and I thought I saw the anilam screen show XYZ so I assume it's capable of driving a 3rd axis? as a hobby machinist myself, I know how valuable a second machine is for modding the first..lol. I cringed when I saw the reference boo boo.. been there more then I care to admit..lol. great work!
+christopher polanski Thanks! I've certainly thought about it... Problem is, while the Anilam can read the scales for three axis it is only a two axis controller, so I'd need to replace that. While I would normally look into that, I'm making some good progress on my own "mini VMC" which will hopefully be able to do most of my CNC work. Then I'll have the Lagun for just manual milling.
All quick change systems are POC as far as I am concerned. Forget about them and accept a longer tool change time. You will need precision shim plates and for repeatability, an adjustable stop may be mounted on the solid toolpost registering on the back side of the tool. Chucking the compound is not a real option as far as I am concerned when the machine does not have a (micro adjustable) longitudinal stop and auto feed cutoff (no amateur machines have these as far as I know)
And funny enough, A to Z appears to be out of business. Probably for selling the same useless crap china makes for 4x the cost to total rubes who think metallurgy is just some kind of metallic gangbang.
As a beginner hobby machinist, I find your videos to be fascinating. I view the results as works of art, which of course, is only one aspect. What cutting oil are you using? It seems thick and colorful.
If you have endmills, you can hog off a lot more metal faster by using one of those, then finish with the fly cutter for a nice finish. That's what I would do! That's if you don't have a bandsaw to get your stock to nominal dimension.
I love the videos, by the way and appreciate the editing work you put into them. I love to see how other people create things and solve problems! You do great work!
what tolpost was the one that failed you ? for other people not to get screwed over. a lot of us don't have a mill or funds to get one or to buy 2 quick change posts...
Awesome, just awesome...but why cold roll? When you make a hole into it the hole springs into a nominal size (out of round), but...then again, I guess it'd still be ok. Either way, very nice
You're new at this?! That's even better! Show's you're a quick learner, dishing out work like that...you'll master it in no time...honestly great work...and have lots of fun doing it.
Same here, and it actually does pretty well for "a while". Mine has only recently gotten sloppy enough to annoy me, and it may have been here a couple years. Wish I had sprung for a decent steel one back then though.
Very cool to let the fault in the video.. This happened to all Machinists hobby or professional sometimes no need to play perfect cause everybody knows that nobody is... 👍
The handle should work flawless but doesnt, so i guess the central drill was too deep, adding a shims could solve it, and you never show us how the tool holder fit. Thank you to take the time and share it!!
Re your mistake, couldn't you have rotated the work so the mistake was on the back side of the toolpost, and then machined a new dovetail on the opposite side to replace it? Then you could fill in the hole with a bolt and grind flush. Wouldn't look pretty but it should work fine, and way easier and cheaper than starting over.
I am wondering what make the pins come out in the center of the holding block I see the pins have a o ring on there but I don't understand how it tightens on the holder
The O-ring just provides enough friction so they don't fall out. The portion of the handle in the block has a cam lobe which, as you turn it, pushes outward on the pins. Turning it back takes the pressure off the pins so you can slide the holders off. Definitely not the greatest system but it does seem to work ok for a very small lathe.
@3:29... ok, no bandsaw... how about a hacksaw, perhaps? I imagine that cut would take about the same amount of time but waste a lot less material ...but that's probably just my Scottish blood talking. :) Best wishes from down Under, I enjoyed this video.
"how about a hacksaw, perhaps?" That's me for every piece of stock here and I'm surprised I don't have arms like Popeye. At times it goes so slow I feel like the Count of Monte Cristo digging his escape tunnel. Every blade I've bought or tried so far also stays sharp for about two minutes even on soft materials.
There are exceptions. I can get nice hunks of scrap aluminum that's big enough for most of my projects for about 40 cents per pound. I don't have a source for steel like that, so I have to buy new, which costs a lot more even for A36. I have to buy online for any tool steel.
هل لديكم معرفة لبيع مخرطة قرمة اثنين متر وطول اثنين أو متر ونصف ذات غوراب متحرك مع السعر إلى مصر من فضلك ومقشطة عربية اثين قائم مع رسمة وصندق سرعات لتركيب حجر جلخ أو انديمل طول ثلاثة أمتار ألماني مع السعر أيضا من فضلك افاديني مرحبا والف شكر
The short answer to this problem is to throw away that tool post and buy the wedge type....end of story.......piston types are cheap, crap and not worth as door stops.
No band saw? Easy! HACK SAW! Yeah, its W3RK. But you're NOT wasting material you could use on other tools/parts. THEN use the fly cutter to face off the hand cut. DUDE! Really?